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Farfrumwork

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About Farfrumwork

  • Birthday 11/25/1972

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  • Location
    Louisville CO
  • Car
    '07 specB -Cryotuned 14.4@94.5 5800'ASL
  • Occupation
    Principal Engineer - medical stuff

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  1. 2007 Subaru Legacy SpecB - 126kmi - $12k firm VIN - 4S3 BL6964 1321458 Car is is in Louisville CO, 80027 (near Boulder CO) Diamond Grey Metallic, loaded - like all SpecB’s. In case you aren’t familiar with the SpecB, it was the flagship Subaru of the era with the 2.5l turbo, 6spd manual, Bilstein struts, aluminum control arms, Alcantara inserts in leather seats, Driver and Passenger powered seats, firmer top hats, rear LSD, heated seats/mirrors/windshield, moonroof, more sound deadening, etc… a gentleman’s saloon. There were only ~450 SpecB’s produced in 2007. Garage kept (at home and at work), always a Colorado front range car (NO rust of any kind), extra clean and as nice as an ’07 could be. Mostly used as a commuter car between Louisville and north Boulder (15mi mixed country/city). Adult owned and driven. Never smoked in. Tastefully modified. I have LOVED this car for the 12+ years I’ve owned it (bought with 30kmi) and have performed regular maintenance and cleaning. Rotella T6 5-40 full synthetic oil changes at 3-4kmi intervals and OEM air filters. Has never let me down and is really fun to drive. The JDM Bilsteins are fantastic with the pinks - very controlled and firm, but not jarring. Really great stance. I get compliments all the time on the car. This was my third Legacy over the last 20years (previously a 5spd ’98 GT, and a ’92 5spd Turbo sedan (EJ22T for the win)). Wife got a new ride and I’m ‘inheriting’ her Alltrack - time to have fun with a new platform. Mods: · Cobb AP and catted DP, Stage 2 road tuned by Cryotune (since ~40kmi) (Stock DP included) · Deatschwerks DW65 flow fuel pump · Bullet-proofed TMIC (I developed the ‘zip tie’ BPTMIC) · JDM SpecB Rev C Bilsteins with SpecB ‘Pinks’ (~30kmi on setup) – perfect stance, no rubbing, great ride · Group N front A-arm bushings (pillow and front mount) and new SpecB top hats (~30kmi on suspension) · Redline leather shifter and e-brake boots (color matched stitching) · Pretty dark tinted windows (do not know exact %, maybe 15%) · Winter wheel set - Pirrelli SottoZero (225/45/18) on factory SpecB wheels (7x18) with 15mm spacers. Currently installed. · Summer wheel set – Sumitomo HTR ZIII (225/45/18) on Sparco/OZ wheels (8x18). Could likely get another summer on these tires, although one has a screw in it that likely could be plugged FULL timing belt service complete at 95kmi New Drivers front half shaft at ~90kmi New plugs at 90kmi New battery in 2021 New rotors and pads (Hawk Street) in 2020 All weather mats Issues: 1) The Cobb AP is seemingly dead (two burned resistors on the input of the board), so the car is stuck in Cryo Stage 2 tuning. Used ECUs are <$100 if you want to revert to stock (for some reason) 2) PS pump and rack are slowly weeping (original equipment). -Chad Mobile 720-938-9079 (best way to reach me is through texting)
  2. THE original metal zip tied BPTMIC!! Still going strong at 115kmi on a Stg 2 Cryo road tune.
  3. Farfrumwork's zip-tied BPTMIC is still kicking it. Not that I expected otherwise, this is solid fix. 5+ yrs, and 50k+ miles, mostly on a Cryo Stage2 road tune. {From March 2012} http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=115236&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1465402359 FYI - the sweet heatshield visible on the left didn't last... http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=115239&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1465402359 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=115241&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1465402359
  4. That is just a piece of Aluminum sheet that I bent up. It had the gold reflective tape on the underside as well, facing the turbo. Unfortunately my method of attachment (additional heat sheild to the IC) was not up to the task and it fell off not long after install. I haven't gone back to see how else I could attach 'something' there, but I do believe that it would pay to do so. I bet one could fab a sheild that would attach to the lower BPTMIC rail on that side... with fasteners I do have an extra shield on top of the stock turbo shrouding that extends under the IC a bit more. Keep as much heat away from the IC as possible!! sort of related - Just ran at Bandimere last night (5800' above sea level) - it was cold (55*F) and had rained earlier in the day so no one was there. I got 7 runs in, back to back, with no waiting. All but the first run (my first time at the track with this car) was ~14.4 @ ~94mph best ET - 14.345 best trap - 94.55 60's were pretty consistent and ranged 1.926 - 1.980 (after the first run... which was a 2.5) I attribute a great tune (Cryo road-tune) and solid mechanicals for such consistent results. VF52 is on my list. I want 100mph traps. And - altitude is a bitch
  5. And the OG zip-tied BPTMIC is still kicking it! 2.25yr past install and just about 2 years on a Stg2 Cryo road-tune and all is still solid. Buy or build your own and forget about it. [From March 2012] http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=115236&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1333144916
  6. I'm glad more people can run the setup! Good job bringing this into commercialization and making it easier for the masses.
  7. Another huzzah for Dave and CTP!! Dave completed a road tune on my '07 specB a few weeks ago and I have been loving it ever since. I went from a Cobb OTS stg2 to the Cryotuned stage 2. More power down low through the top end, and smoother overall to boot. My winter tires are fighting to keep traction in 1st gear and it'll chirp the tires getting into 2nd. That was not happening with the OTS tune here at >1mi over sea level. This is no placebo - I've been driving for 24+yrs and I know what feels 'right' when it comes to internal combustion. The torque and drivability is GREAT!! I can't wait for an E85 tune come spring. Great communication and professionalism. Dave makes sure you know what is happening and explains the process so you know exactly what is going on. Very good experience. Did I mention smoooooooth
  8. Just to assure you in your decisions, the banding will not fail and the channels will not come off of the IC if installed correctly. You just need them somewhat tight to start so they don't slip out of the rail troughs. Mine are still as-installed <-- longest running banded bulletproofed TMIC. (built/installed March '12) But yeah, the hardware method will not fail either... both are good means to an end and there are more methods if you want to keep iterating on design.
  9. I'm glad the banding is being embraced! May your intercoolers remain clean (aesthetically), and the entirety of their internal pressures reach a fiery demise.
  10. Just to note, my SS zip tied 'bullet proofed' TMIC is holding up quite well. No change in location or tightness of the bands since install. Install and forget about it!! Do it.
  11. I ordered mine from McMasterCarr, http://www.mcmaster.com/#zip-ties/=hcfuqa PN 6898K66 (33" SS cable ties, pack of 5) I found some at the local HW store as well, but they were not long enough.
  12. ^^ nope, banding would need to be re-installed. Don't know why one would remove them, but you'd have 3 left over bands from the 5-pack if you wished to do so. and yes, I still need to post PN's and whatnot. I have 1 PM to respond to as well. will get to it, just busy at work... gotta make the moneys
  13. Farfrumwork's metal zip-tie method (THE original metal zip-tied BPTMIC). No interference with BPV tube or engine cover. ~$30 total (with 3 SS ties and a bunch of AL channel left over...) Nevermind the very-cool-but-now-gone heat shield... it came off on it's own in <1 week. Oh well, back to the drawing board there. The end tank must flex much more than I thought. Those are stainless cable ties. 33" length, trimmed up after install. I have PN's and new channel dimensions I can add later in an edit (papers out in the car). I ran a ~.015" deep, 3/16" wide slot down the length of each rail to capture the SS tie. The locking feature on the SS ties allows for some slack, so I had to tension and then "set" the ball (read, hit with a hammer to deform housing and lock in-place). You have to feed and form the SS tie around the rails to get a snug fit; it doesn't have to apply force to the rails, it just has to hold them on - any movement of the rails will only tighten the SS ties hold. I did JB the rails to the IC, but that's not necessary or required, the ties will not fail (100lb load rated). If anything goes wrong in the future I will let everyone know. I'm not too proud to admit failure, but it doesn't happen too often (again, nevermind the heatshield ) I was going to mock up a binding post method as well, but ran out of motivation. I did come up with a design though, which would use 1 binding post and 1 screw per end (4 total)- which I think would be cleaner and fit better than the threaded rod/washer/acorn nuts. #8-32 binding posts have a 1/8" head profile!! I''l post some PN's for that in an update as well. -Chad OTS stg2 - protune ASAP!! And they said, why overthink it?
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