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lockmedic

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About lockmedic

  • Birthday 12/22/1975

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  • Location
    Lenoir City, TN
  • Car
    Subarus!
  • Occupation
    Locksmith

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  1. You know, i've never figured out the appeal of the actual "thing" (polaris slingshot) he was trying to duplicate on the cheap. It's a $20k backwards tricycle with no roof.
  2. Not PNW but anyone want an un-rusty brat or two for cheap? https://knoxville.craigslist.org/cto/d/1984-subaru-bratt-tops-two-for-one/6775126748.html Probably the cheapest I've seen one posted for since. . ever. Of course the ad is a whole 11 hours old as of this posting so they're long gone by now.
  3. ah diesel guys. Always keepin' it classy.
  4. Agree it's systemic among certain brands. I just bought an 03 Silverado 2500HD at auction that was much rustier than I originally thought (fender flares did a great job at hiding it). While it's nigh impossible to find a decent used bed even down here, I can at least buy all the new aftermarket sheet metal I need at very reasonable prices to cure its cancer. Far less problems finding an unrusty Ford bed of the same vintage, but that also might be because the powerjoke 6.0/6.4's die off before the truck has a chance to rust. Rust has always been an issue *somewhere* on every generation of Subaru. 3g's rust around the quarters/rear bumper and at the dogleg on the rear door, and in extreme cases, the rear subframe has been known to rot. 4g's got better but I still see them with quarter rot, plus they had brake line issues. Probably some of the worst stuff to fix is the rear strut towers on Impreza and Forester. This is the first I've heard of 5g's having issues with the front subframe but I suppose it's bound to happen sooner or later. I will say it's at least a bolt-on, non cosmetic part so it'll be easy to fix and no paint work needed. They're also not terribly expensive for as complex as they are.
  5. This thing? https://autoparts.beforward.jp/detail/Chassis/Members/PA01715681/ It's not too bad to change. Support the engine/trans from overhead and drop the whole thing out the bottom. Electric steering so there's no hydraulic lines to unhook for the steering rack, leave the lower control arms hanging and you don't have to open up the brakes either. It can be a DIY job, I have done it on jacks on a hard surface without issue. Last time I did it was for a collision repair and I dropped the engine/trans out as a unit and fixed the unibody, lifted the engine/trans off the old bent subframe and dropped it onto a used one ($150 at a local junkyard) and rolled it back under the car and bolted it up. Getting the steering rack aligned with the column can be an issue. Center the wheel before you start and tape it into position, then separate the u-joint at the rack and just don't move the rack until you reconnect it with the u-joint. If you put it back out of center you may have to have the dealer re-center the rack with diagnostic equipment. Not a big deal but it's a $100-150 charge you can avoid if you're careful.
  6. I bought a used crappy Century 120v mig that had 4 heat settings. Used it for several years. Hated it, always thought I just couldn't weld. I was either burning holes in things or the wire wasn't fusing. Used it on 3 or 4 most of the time but seems like I always needed to be somewhere between them. Plus it was only 20% duty cycle rated so it would kick off and need to cool down after about 30 minutes of serious work. It was truly a shit welder. 4 or 5 years ago I bought a Millermatic 211 dual voltage unit (plug changes out so you can switch from 120 to 240 easy). Forget what I paid but it was in the $1200 range and for that I got a spool gun free (not that I'll be welding aluminum anytime soon). it.is.the.best.thing.ever. Infinite heat range adjustment is a game changer. Autoset is a game changer (just dial in the thickness of material you're working on and the machine does the rest). Being able to use it anywhere I have a normal household outlet is a game changer (up to 3/16"). Worth the money. Should have bought it years ago. Not saying it makes my welds look like the pros but I can definitely stick some metal to shit now. Bottom line is a GOOD mig setup with bottle and regulator will set you back some coin. If you need 1 job done, you're better off hiring a pro. If you plan to tinker and use this skill for other life adventures, cry once now at the $$ leaving your wallet and be proud from here on. All of that said, cutting out and replacing rusty metal on the BOTTOM of the car will suck royally. Cutting/grinding/welding overhead is nasty, gets worse when dealing with rust. It'll take a lot of prep to get a clean surface to weld to. You will hate it. Better solution might be to do the cutout and prep yourself, then hire a pro to stick the shiny new unrusty metal back together for you.
  7. It has been done but it's stupid hard and you basically need an entire manual trans donor car sitting next to yours for it to be practical. Sell yours and buy a manual if that's what you want. Take the manual trans car apart and put it back together if after trading you feel like you missed out on a life enriching experience.
  8. I just run those off with an impact. If you don't feel like jackassing it all the way off a loaded strut, just bump it to the point where the nylon on the locknut is clear of the threads and they'll spin off once unloaded, or at the very least you can counterhold the strut with your bare hand at that point. Never used a hex bit to counterhold or spin the strut rod while counterholding the nut.
  9. Check your evap drain. It's a little rubber hose up underneath the dash on the passenger side that drains condensate from the evap box. They get dislodged or clogged sometimes. Video is of a newer generation but the hose is in pretty much the same place.
  10. So I've been trying to find a good suppressor-friendly 45acp for a while now. Friend of mine suggested an AR45 as they're blowback and not browning-action with a barrel that needs to flop around like my Glock 21, and therefore pretty sensitive to big heavy cans hanging off the end of the barrel. My can has a booster but my glock still says "nah". Same friend also mentioned Palmetto State Armory had them decently cheap. $600 shipped on a daily deal back in June. So I ordered one. . . that was June 19. Missed the daily deal so I bought their 'blem' AR45 pistol which was $650+shipping+FFL xfer. All in just under $700, not terrible considering most other AR45's I've found are $1200-1300. PSA is slow to ship. Expected that. Takes nearly 3 weeks for my gun to show up at my dealer (was shipped July 4 and I got it July 9) and when it does the bolt won't cycle past halfway. . . and since it was shipped with a little plastic bolt blocking widget, I can't close the bolt to separate the upper/lower and figure out what's wrong with it. Probably could have just broken the widget, closed the bolt and investigated, but my thought is I shouldn't have to troubleshoot/repair a brand new gun. video of issue: https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZTQkUNE0SzzjGCvI2 Emailed PSA asking for advice. Takes a couple of days each time for them to reply. Eventually (July 15) they say "well if you think it's broken you can send it back and we'll fix it." They send a return label and I send it back. 2 weeks later (July 27) I still haven't heard anything so I email to check up. They basically say 'we've got it and it's being processed'. Monday (August 7, about 7 weeks from the day I ordered it) I call. They say "it's in repairs but I have no notes on it. . . lemme check and call you back". I bring up the time elapsed and tell them I'd like either a confirmation it's on the way back, a replacement gun shipped out, or a refund. They say they'll call back or email same day. No reply so I call again yesterday afternoon (20 minutes on hold). Same deal as before "it's in repairs. No info". I tell them I'd like a refund. They say "it's a serialized firearm, refunds are processed through a different person, I'll transfer you. . . " 10 minutes on hold and I'm disconnected. Back to email yesterday afternoon. Repeat my request for a refund. No response as of this morning. My friend who recommended them has ordered in the past without issue. At this point I'll never order from them again and have no guarantee I'll get a gun or my money back. My recommendation is to order elsewhere. Great prices, $hitty customer service.
  11. 08 already has factory aux in. . . look in your center console.
  12. Meanwhile over on Subaruoutback.org, lamin-x fogs and ammo can roof racks get bro panties moist.
  13. http://i.imgur.com/YQwFDAW.jpg?1 Spotted from the work van the other day. fart pipe ✔ hellaflush + 50mm ✔ gold plated star spangled suspension brace (becuz MURICA! i guess?) ✔ "matte" finish paint. . . aka faded as shit. ✔
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