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pyromarty

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  1. wow it's been a while since i've been on here! Yes you can just move the cam that has shifted a little bit, only one Cam pulley at a time, and they both go the same direction, or you can extend them both and hit each other. ( Not the piston, but the valves will touch in a "V" style) one at a time, same directions, good to go. driver side upper cam is the hardest, as it's like a mouse trap just too much to one side or the other it wants to take off. patiences and a few cold ones!
  2. Do not use a lateral type vise. • Push the adjuster rod vertically. • Press-in the push adjuster rod gradually taking more than three minutes. • Do not allow press pressure to exceed 9,807 N (1,000 kgf, 2,205 lb). • Press the adjuster rod as far as the end surface of the cylinder. Do not press the adjuster rod into cylinder. Doing so may damage the cylinder. • Do not release the press pressure until stopper pin is completely inserted. as from the book. most people won't have a vertical hydraulic press. so just compress in 3 or more minutes. (update post)
  3. forgot about the compress slowly part. you can't press it closed in a horizontal position, only virticaly.
  4. if i remember, dealer wants 4 hrs at 80pr hr plus 175 for the belt. i do them for 150 labor you buy part. i can get belt for 125. i don't recomend autozone belts. they are wrong by half a tooth.
  5. T-belt replacement on a 05 LGT. Ok here's a little how to on the timing belt replacement incase anyone is thinking about taking it on. here we are at the start of the job. if there's anything i've missed or put that is incorrect please let me know. ( I am not responsible for anything that you do to your car) here are the tools you will need. http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc336/pyromarty/timing%20belt/tools.jpg here's the start of the job. http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc336/pyromarty/timing%20belt/startofjob.jpg Next remove the "ram air scoop" and engine cover. http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc336/pyromarty/timing%20belt/removecovers.jpg Now pinch off the upper Radiator hose, remove and take out your fans. http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc336/pyromarty/timing%20belt/103_0087.jpg Now with the fans out of the way, you can take off the ACC drives. Power steering and A/C belt with the tensioner bracket. http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc336/pyromarty/timing%20belt/103_0088.jpg If you have the subaru harmonic balancer remover you can use it, if not a chain wrench will work just fine. you'll have to really put the torque to this bolt. ( reinstall with a dab of oil on threads) http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc336/pyromarty/timing%20belt/103_0090.jpg ok, now remove the timing belt covers. some bolts are hiding. after covers are removed, put the harmonic balancer back on the crank so you can rotate the engine. http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc336/pyromarty/timing%20belt/103_0093.jpg rotate the engine clockwise until the crank, and cam marks are at the 12-0-clock position. http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc336/pyromarty/timing%20belt/103_0095.jpg here's the cam up at the 12o-clock positon.the upper cam lines up with marks on the plastic covers. http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc336/pyromarty/timing%20belt/103_0094.jpg the upper cams line up with the cover, and the lower cams line up with the 6 o-clock marks of the upper cam. the 6 o-clock marks look like II and the 12 o-clock marks of the lower cam are the same II marks. http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc336/pyromarty/timing%20belt/103_0096.jpg now that it's lined up you can remove the tensioner and put in a vertical press. if you don't have one, use a pry bar and compress the auto tensioner. Taking more than 3 minutes to compress! after compressing install the "Grenade Pin" or a 2 mm (0.08 in) (nominal) dia. hex wrench http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc336/pyromarty/timing%20belt/103_0098.jpg now you can remove the auto tensioner. tensioner removed you can remove belt. http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc336/pyromarty/timing%20belt/103_0102.jpg while your here, my as well do the water pump. when you install the new belt the arrows go to the right. start at the crank, (------ line is the start at the crank mark.) put the belt on from the crank pully twards the right, over the upper cam and down around the lower. (THESE ARE VERY HARD TO KEEP IN POSITION ROTATE UPPER-CLOCKWISE. LOWER COUNTER CLOCKWISE AND ONE AT A TIME!!) and here are the pics of the 3 and 6 o-clock timing positions. you need a mirror to verify the correct position of them http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc336/pyromarty/timing%20belt/103_0106.jpg marks of the 3 o-clock position verify with mirror. http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc336/pyromarty/timing%20belt/103_0108.jpg 6 o-clock marks http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc336/pyromarty/timing%20belt/103_0109.jpg after you've done this reinstall the auto tensioner, pull the "grenade pin" and push the tensioner down with your hand. ( it will auto tension ) fire it up, if it sounds normal then your ready to put it back together. hope this helps anyone who has thought about doing this.
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