Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Apex-XT

I Donated
  • Posts

    93
  • Joined

Personal Information

  • Location
    Denver
  • Car
    '06 OBW-XT Ltd

Apex-XT's Achievements

Enthusiast

Enthusiast (6/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges

0

Reputation

  1. Thanks for this write-up - very helpful changing mine last night. A couple of tips re: puller and saving time... Before you jack up the car, pry the center cap out of the wheel, exposing the axle nut. Put your socket with extension on it and back off the nut without worrying about the pinged lock. With a breaker bar on the socket you will blast right through it and the weight of the car on the wheel prevents it from turning. Back that nut off about a 1/2 inch or so. Take the breaker bar off, leaving the socket with extension on the nut. Using a heavy hammer, smack the back of the extension 1 or 2 sharp raps. The spline should crack loose from the hub and slide in the hub. You can go ahead and remove the nut and jack up the car to remove the wheel and continue.
  2. See my sig... Now have the 'bubbling heater core' issue, which is the mix / blend actuator mechanisms going bad. Will be replacing them when the airbags are replaced under factory recall. To get to the driver's side mechanism, you essentially have to remove the dash, which they're going to do anyway for the airbag replacement. While the driver's side isn't bad - pass is the current problem, I'm replacing it now as preventive maint.
  3. Just to let everyone know there are other causes for idle stuttering.. This happened to me and I changed my O-rings. It did help, but didn't fully solve the problem. I looked for solutions for about a year until my motor definitely had a problem running at idle and low RPM. I took it to the shop for diagnosis. They reported that Cyl 2 exhaust valve was most likely burned but they couldn't see it with a bore-scope, but compression was shot. They tore it open and sure enough, a wicked crack in the valve with a gap burned through it from running over time. The gap was enough that Cyl 2 didn't have compression. They said this typically starts out as a rough idle because of low compression and progresses until the speed of the engine cycle can no longer make up for the loss of compression through the crack as it widens. So, if changing your O-rings doesn't solve it, pull a compression test. If one cyl is low - you're probably looking at pulling the head on that side and a valve job. This happened to me @ 250k miles, so I went with a motor rebuild.
  4. Yes, shift up using your stick or steering wheel 'paddle' shifters in sport mode. If you're not in sport mode, the tcu will automatically shift, defeating the purpose of setting in new learned codes. You're trying to tell the tcu when it should shift, not let it do what it wants. I'm about to go through this procedure yet again. 3rd or 4th time.... I saw this info elsewhere and confirmed this is why I keep loosing my learned codes: When the battery is disconnected the tcu looses it's 'volatile' memory. Before you start the first time after hooking the battery back up, turn the ignition to the run (not start) position and watch the tach and speedo sweep all the way up and back down. Wait for the sweep to finish. During that sweep, programming is reloaded from non-volatile memory into the volatile memory. The learned codes must be stored in non-volatile and not backed up into the volatile memory. Anyway, if you are impatient, like me, and just keep cranking the key over to start without letting the full sweep finish after you've disconnected the battery, it *will* loose the learned codes. Once you've waited and the sweep finishes, the next time you drive you can start the car immediately without waiting for the sweep. But that first time is a must.
  5. 250k miles '06 OBXT 5EAT Ltd I've posted here before for prior replacement/pm work. Since then, rebuilt Turbo, wastegate slipped out and not allowing boost. I put on a used hot side and while in there replaced the CHRA. But, at 250k miles, the OE CHRA was still good - very little shaft play. I change my oil every 3k mi. Also, changed the drive shaft - had the rear u-joint go. I was having vibration as speed picked up. It had stiffened - could see red dust around it once I got it out. There's a thread here on changing drive shaft, followed it - simple - 4 bolts on rear and 2 on center bearing. After I changed it and drove it a week - I could smell burning oil. Found a very small drip of trans fluid out the rear tailpiece around the new shaft dropping on the exhaust. Pulled the shaft again, pulled out the seal, tapped new one in, etc. All working great. Decided to treat my car and changed the front and rear diff fluids, changed the trans fluid. Good write-ups in the forums on both. Note the trans fluid change by pulling off the return line from the cooler worked great.
  6. If your trans is slipping, this wont help. But if it is slamming in gear @ 2-3... DO THIS! Before you go to the dealer. This is what they will do. Go to Post #40 of this thread to review the procedure, attached as an image. The procedure is available in other posts as well. I went through this problem 18 mo. or so ago. Spent lots of money on flushes, etc. Even had a dealer go through the Learned Codes procedure to fix it the first time. The second time, I used the procedure above and RomRaider (or some such) and did the procedure myself. It has been working well for 80k. My car now has 220k on the OE Turbo and 5EAT.
  7. Just finished wiping Memory 2 with FreeSSM and then using the procedure a few posts back to re-learn (Used RomRaider Logger to watch the Throttle Opening values) ... Seems to be shifting normal again. Will watch it again tomorrow morning when the trans is cold - I expect it to be a little stiff until it warms up - through the warm up for my morning drive. Will let you know how it turns out.
  8. Understood, and I would tend to agree with you. How could they release a product that loses programming when you change the battery!? But, I'm relaying what the Subie Service Manager said to me.
  9. Head's up all.... I had the slamming shifting about a year ago and solved the problem with a local shop that diagnosed loss of 'Learned Codes' and reprogrammed them for me. Last week, I returned from a trip to find my car's battery had run down dead. I had to get a jump from the parking lot staff. I noticed the same slamming shifting problem again immediately. I called my local Sub dealer and asked if they could reprogram my trans' Learned Codes and they knew immediately what I was talking about. A year ago, their only solution was to change out the trans fluid. They have received a tech bulletin recently that explains there are 2 problems. When the battery is disconnected from the car 1) the trans loses the 'Learned Codes'. 2) when this happens, the shift soelenoids develop a cavitation in the hydraulic fluid column that must be cleared. So, I'm scheduled for them to service my car, which will include 1st) clearing the hydraulic lines of cavitations (bubbles?) and 2nd) relearning the learned codes. They state it will take about an hour and will cost $75. I asked the svc mgr if there is a way to prevent this in the future. He stated that I shouldn't let the car lose power!! So, the next time you need to change your battery, you'll need to jumper with a spare battery, plug in a lighter adapter power input, use a battery charger, or something so that the car never loses power input to the TCU. Note if you use the lighter plug-in, make sure it is connected with the ignition off or you may need to keep the ignition at the 1st contact point. I saw the Learning Control procedure a couple of posts back. has anyone tried this at home using the FreeSSM or RomRaider or other flashing software? I used FreeSSM last year and didn't see a way to write back to the TCU, but you could clear the Memory2 (Learned) codes. You can clear, but unless you can have it re-learn, it won't do any good. I cleared last year but the TCU doesn't automatically re-learn by itself. Any successes?
  10. FWIW, I used FreeSSM to reset my TCU, including the learned codes, and ran it awhile. It didn't re-learn on its own. I had to take it to service for a procedure that they use to test, then input values. Has anyone used FreeSSM to input TCU learned values? If so, I'd like to know the procedure in case it happens to me again.
  11. See my post above... I performed at least 3 Dealer Flushes (each about $150) and a full flush and filter change myself and they never fixed the problem. For me, the 5EAT had lost its learned codes. Local shop reprogrammed them and it has been like new for going on 25k miles now.
  12. Yes, *Original* stock turbo, and a Subie stock up pipe from a STI. And as noted, there are others who have higher mileage on stock, although mine is a '06. I doubt that is any sort of a record.
  13. +1 on New axle nut... The NAPA kit I used in the write-up above came with a nut. You can also pick them up pretty cheaply from your local dealer. If you're ordering a non-OE replacement, ask the seller if it comes with a new nut and with neoprene boots.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use