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ssbtech

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  1. Bumping this thread... Yesterday I replaced the suction hose as it was dribbling down the front of the timing cover and making a mess. The fluid was also old, so replenished it with Dex iii as required. I disconnected the return hose to the reservoir and caught the old fluid being pumped through while turning the PS pump by hand and running the steering wheel full lock to lock several times, adding new fluid to the reservoir. After a few minutes of doing this the fluid was looking good with very few bubbles. I re-connected the return to the reservoir and spun the pump several more times, adding a little fluid as it was drawn out. Again, ran the steering lock to lock several times until no bubbles and the fluid level remained stable. After starting the car up with the front wheels off the ground, turning the wheel to the right was smooth, however turning it to the left resulted in very dramatic judder in the wheels. The fluid belched but quickly became stable again without any frothing. I shut it off, let it sit for a bit then performed what must have been 25+ lock-to-lock rotations of the steering wheel. I started it up with it full lock to the left, ran for 30 sec, shut it down and repeated with it full lock to the right. Still some judder but overall much better. I did some figure 8s in a nearby parking lot and it seemed smooth. During driving, there was still some pulsation in the wheel, notably when turning to the left. Tight turns such as backing into a parking space was hit/miss as to whether it would produce the pulsation. I left it overnight for any aeration to escape the fluid and drove for a bit in the morning with some minor pulsation. I lifted the front end up again and ran through probably another 50 lock-to-lock rotations of the wheel with the engine off. The judder became worse but slowly tapered off while driving, but not eliminated. Making a U-turn in a gravel/rutted parking lot revealed LOTS of pulsation again. In general, uneven surfaces that put force on the rack while turning seem to be the bigger issue. Dry steering with the engine on and not moving doesn't seem to produce much, if any pulsation. So I'm not sure what's next here. Just give it more time for air to escape or do I have a bigger issue with the rack? Cheers EDIT: Pump is as quiet as it's ever been, no whirring or anything sounding like air is getting in at the O-ring that was recently replaced.
  2. Ultimately the hoses will need to be replaced as they lose resiliency over time. I think the clamps also loosen up a little too adding to the problem. The one that got me this time was to the left of the alternator below the intake manifold. There's another one right in front of it and two more behind the alternator to the right. With some creativity I don't think you'd have to pull the manifold to get to them.
  3. Holy crap, that's a full on leak! That's actually fairly easy to fix. My photo earlier in this thread (https://www.legacygt.com/topic/124818-fuel-line-leaking-how-to-access-clamp/#comment-2810256) shows that clamp that's leaking. Get some M4 0.7 wingnuts and thread it onto the upside-down bolt securing the clamp to the hose/pipe. A wingnut driver will make this easier too. In my picture, I threaded on a couple of nuts to jam the wingnut to the clamp bolt, but for the second one I had to repair I had too little space and instead used a dab of red loctite. Let that sit for a couple of hours, then you'll have the wingnut secured to the bolt sufficiently that you can turn it to tighten the clamp.
  4. I wish they'd do a full recall on it so I don't have to worry about them.
  5. Cold weather is here and now the clamp below and behind the purge control solenoid is leaking... Just never ends. I wonder how many others that are impossible to get to are in a similar state
  6. I'll need to replace my master cylinder shortly as I'm getting lots of pedal travel and spongy pedal feel. I don't know if the last brake fluid used was DOT3 or DOT4 - When filling the new reservoir and performing both the master cylinder and brake line bleed, does that take care of any fluid that may be hanging out in the ABS module as well?
  7. 05 Outback XT with soft/long pedal travel. Pads/Rotors good. Suspect failed seal or pitted bore in master cylinder. Looking at images I see on the side where it bolts up to the booster, there's a seal and a small hole - see attachment. I don't see this on videos I've seen bench bleeding the BMC, and the Subaru service manual shows bleeding it by installing it to the car, placing a plastic bag over it and covering the outlets with your fingers while someone pumps the brake. Can these not be bench bled in the traditional manner?
  8. Heh. I too am in Canada Just didn't want to take a chance mixing oils in a system that I can't easily drain and fill myself. I don't have AC tools. The evaporator and expansion valve were a fun replacement. Didn't have to pull the dash though. Cheers.
  9. I found mine here: https://www.abilenemachine.com/denso-nd8-pag-oil-46v-amx10272 You said you replaced your compressor - new unit? I thought they came pre-filled with the appropriate quantity.
  10. There's actually quite a bit of difference between the chemical structure of compressor oils. This is less of a Subaru recommendation and more of a Denso recommendation for their compressors. https://docs.lib.purdue.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?referer=&httpsredir=1&article=2250&context=icec#:~:text=The single end capped P,performance and lubrication was observed. https://automotivetechinfo.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/AC-System-Lubricant.pdf I did end up finding a can of Denso 8 oil which I ultimately didn't need as nothing dribbled out of the old evaporator
  11. Can't believe search turned up nothing on this. FSM states not to mix PAG oils for the AC system and specifies "Denso Oil 8", which of course I can't find anywhere. Denso Oil 8 is a PAG46 oil. Is the warning against mixing oils based on mixing oils for different refrigerant types, or is it unacceptable to mix different oils of the same type, i.e. Denso Oil 8 already in the system with added PAG46 from a different brand? I'll be replacing my evaporator soon, the system has already been professionally evacuated. I suppose I could transfer the oil from the old evaporator to the new one but I'd prefer fresh oil. Thanks.
  12. Trying to get a better look into the air box to see if I can trace a leak from the evaporator (and to clear out years of leaves and debris from before the cabin air filter retrofit kit was available) and I've run into a snag. I can get the three fasteners off that hold the blower housing to the firewall, but the top bracket that hangs over the stud conflicts with the air duct serving the right side vent. I figure I need to shift that air duct about 2/3 inch to get the housing past it. Any tips? The service manual does not show dash removal as a prerequisite for pulling the housing down. Can I move the dash panel up just enough to clear? The manual does refer to a fastener holding the air duct down, but I can't see it looking in after removing the vent from the dash. Thanks.
  13. I checked the hose underneath with the UV light. No sign of a leak there. Starting to wonder if the techs used UV dye at all
  14. Thanks. I'll pull the blower housing down later and inspect the evaporator more closely with the UV light. I've been out of the loop for a while - are they a common failure point for these?
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