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Subadozer

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About Subadozer

  • Birthday 12/21/1956

Personal Information

  • Location
    Upstate NY (work in SE PA)
  • Car
    '05 GRP OBXT wagon 5EAT; BNR 16g, STi UP
  • Interests
    1860's living history; Antique architecture; Railroads
  • Occupation
    Historic Building Specialist

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  1. Yes, I think here is at least one place the Amsoil bias enters in here and there's nothing a 3rd party can do to fix that. At least there's full disclosure on the apples to oranges comparison. When I switched to the European Formula from Amsoil OEM (which I was getting cheaper than Rotella T6) I wanted to extend beyond the 3,750 OCI I had been following but refused to do so without UOA's. I went just under and just over 8,000 on the 2 changes before switching to their Signature Series, which is the same price (pay $20 a year and you get wholesale prices on everything, gallons of the SS/European are $30.65). My first UOA of the SS plus over-advance CEL's about the same time is what resulted in my long-awaited installation of my BNR 16g, IP&T oil line, etc. I'll be very curious to see the UOA upcoming in about 1k miles, now that I don't have a VF-40 with a stuck waste gate and the turbine wearing away at the housing. If I can get my OCI up to a consistent 8-10,000 confirmed by UOA then I will be satisfied.
  2. Because it's on the Amsoil site you might find this report on testing of 10 different oils to be biased but the testing was done by a "3rd party" lab. I found it interesting none the less because of what it showed about the various aspects of synthetic oil. http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g3115.pdf I've only got about 4,000 miles on my 16g so am no help on the longevity issue. However the kind of customer service that Bryan provides is top notch and to me that is worth a lot.
  3. It's probably one of those things that there are so many things to line up that a fraction of a degree off on something dominoes to other alignments, which might also be really difficult to get 100% spot-on. I know Bryan disliked the hassles of the core system but I wonder if he's willing to still do rebuilds if the price is right (...he says with an available core for sale ). I suspect one of the advantages of the new castings is that his milling time is reduced or eliminated.
  4. When I first owned mine I asked a dealer service writer about it. She seemed to be quite knowledgeable on the topic but said it was an expensive job to have done and that she didn't think the risk was worth the money. (that dealer had serviced the car for a good share of its life up through the 60,000 mile service...it was at 90k at that point) She said they usually only did it as part of turbo service.
  5. I looked at the 16g as reliability insurance and the upgrade feature was icing on the cake. I'm just thankful I got the old one out before it caused serious damage.
  6. I'm sure it's much better for all involved and I'm truly glad that you've been so successful to be able to do this. Unfortunately I waited too long to get my rebuilt version in and now the bottom has dropped out of the used VF-40 market.
  7. It would appear that the DS one is less prone to getting clogged. When I pulled mine that one was still about 75% clear but the turbo one was only 50%. It's been replaced with the IP&T filtered oil line. I put a new filtered bolt back in on the DS but ground off the nipple so it can be more easily removed for inspection.
  8. Spotted 2 LGT sedans within 10 minutes of each other in western CT. The first was a silver headed up Nob Hill Rd toward Weir Farm National Park at 5:00. The other was a medium blue headed south on route 7 toward Branchville at about 5:10. I was driving a silver work van so it's unlikely you would have noticed me.
  9. It's easy to reverse them. I considered doing this when I did mine this past winter but the flow through the bolt and filter is reversed so it's not a good idea. I think that the protocol is that the bolts with the raised section have filters and the ones that are flat do not. Looks like somebody may have done the switch with yours, thinking that it would be easier to service the filter. Using Mike's directions you should be able to switch them back without the added hassle of grinding off the nub while the bolt is installed down behind the timing system cover.
  10. Of course their >$80 retrofit kit solution to fix this made them some money on the deal. Not to mention the folks that had no clue and may have paid repeatedly to have a Subaru tech take the console apart to change the filter occasionally.
  11. Yes it is a mystery why they installed the carrier with no filter and there was an outline for the hole cast on the glovebox back and then didn't cut the hole and make the access. Though I guess it's better they did this than install the filter without the easy access. I can't remember if there was any explanation about this earlier in this thread or not. After getting the car I drove around for a month or so before doing this upgrade and definitely noticed a difference in the amount of dust on the dash after installing the filter. Also I used a 3M furnace filter with the carbon and I think this helped in reducing the stale cigarette smoke smell from the previous owner.
  12. Timing belt should be done about this mileage. It's not an inexpensive job to hire done but gives you easier access to the left side filtered AVCS bolt. Ideally it should be replaced with a filtered bolt with the nipple ground off the top. No I used the Hammer Down method.
  13. As a guide on how much might it be worth to access the driver's side filter, I recently pulled both (~156k with only partially known previous OCI history). The turbo side was blocked about 50% and the driver side was still clear by about 75%. Obviously your car might be different. I replaced the turbo side with the IP&T filtered oil line and the other side with a new filtered bolt with the nipple on the top ground off to make it easier to remove if there's a next time.
  14. The GRP has been gone for a few weeks. Probably went to auction. No chance of seeing you today as I'm down in VA for work. Although the car's still up home so there's a chance you could see that.
  15. I would think. I think most people cut the hole when they get it apart the first time. I know I didn't want to have to tear things all apart again. Ended up having to anyway when the blower motor died but at least I knew what I was in for and it went a lot smoother the second time. Check the back of the glovebox back panel for the outline of where the hole is supposed to be.
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