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Impatient

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  • Location
    DFW, TX
  • Car
    09 base --> 07 OBXT LTD 5M
  • Interests
    windsurfing, mtn biking

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  1. Whiteline has a similar offering, though SuperPro “sale price” is better than Whiteline’s “sale price.” Whiteline wa456L (and wa456R). which of the three (seven) would you choose? 1 Mevotech CMS8028x 2) Whiteline WA456x 3) SuperPro trc1058 (pair) 4) loaded OEM (Subaru) with the noodle bushings 5) OEM or Moog, but press out the rear noodles, and replace with 20204AG011 6) Moog RK622030 and -31 7) Beck Arnley (a Moog company???) alum 18775-05550579 picture looks like Mevotech, but rear bushing more like OEM (w/voids) ??? that’s enough options, not sure if any are perfect
  2. It’s probably time for new FCA rear bushings, and who knows what else. One (trusted Subaru-specific) shop suggests steel Moog, another (trusted, but non-specific to Subaru) the steel but with SuperPro bushings….currently on sale. I DO NOT WANT MORE NVH!!! That said, maybe I already have the NVH, as I have 20204AG011 WRX bushings instead of 20204ag01b Outback bushings in stock OBXT FCA’s. this is on an Outback XT sitting at about stock spec-B height or maybe a smidge higher, with the Bilstein B6 spec-B upgrade struts, and the BTS5056 JDM springs. I don’t want to go back to noodle bushings either. So wondering if a preloaded LGT FCA or the Mevotech would be the happy medium. So, similar to original question, are all FCA’s the same geometry ( Mevotech, stock LGT, and stock Outback)?
  3. My 07 has a dome light over the rear seats….which doesn’t work except when I take it apart…I get it to work, then when putting things back together, it quits again. Apparently we both have wagons. My rear hatch also has a rear dome light. The manual switch works, but not the “auto” setting where opening the hatch would trigger it. and yes, it would be great if some light in front would also come on when doors are opened. I believed that was addressed later on (08 or 09?), but would require some sort of hack to get to work on 07 or prior. I used to have an 09, with several “improvements.” It was a vanilla OB, but I was surprised at what I lost trading it in on an 07 XT.
  4. Don’t know how I missed this thread initially, but finally found it. My car was at the dealer to get the airbag recall taken care of. I dithered for months not wanting them touching it, but finally did. Of course they had a $4000 laundry list of things I should take care of, besides the airbag(free). So in a way, they did me a favor, pointing me to a couple issues, though I won’t get into my gripes with the dash (airbag) service itself. Anyway, they said I needed a new PS pump ($1250). Indeed, it was pretty gunked up, and I wasn’t paying attention since it’s hidden under the turbo’s engine cover. So cleaned it up, and sure enough, there was a slight leak around the hose elbow on the top. It was so slight that driving it around a little produced no new wetness. But sitting overnight did. Coldness??? This is the low pressure side. So put my shade tree mechanic’s pants on and splurged on a new o-ring from the dealer. New=red (orange), old= black. New might be slightly thicker, but old did not look decayed. It’s possible the old is only 40k miles old, since that’s when timing belt, water pump, pulleys were replaced. 136k on car now. Made a slight mess, but had stuffed some plastic bags over the belts and pulleys. I had twisted the hose to where it drained into a pasta sauce jar (cleaned of course) that could nestle between the radiator and the passenger fender, down low. Eventually, the reservoir was drained. But I did not attempt Deer Killer’s flush. The fluid looked brand new, clean as a whistle, but frankly, I can’t remember having it flushed by a shop...maybe awhile back, or when the timing belt was serviced...or maybe 70k miles ago??? In the last 2-3 yrs I’ve had to top off the reservoir to counteract the leak, though I didn’t know where it was coming from. All in all, I had used maybe 1/4-1/3 qt of. valvoline MaxLife synthetic ATF. Today, I tried putting the o-ring into the pump recess first, but ended up putting it on the elbow (slightly, not snugged), then inserting the elbow into the pump body, then clinching down. Filled up the reservoir to the Max cold line, then went for a couple figure eights at steering lock in a nearby parking lot. Felt fabulous, but then it only felt bad before when it would get low (3-4 times over last 2-3 years, as mentioned above). I will try to keep an eye out for further issues, but at the moment, I feel like I saved $1248. Thanks to you LegacyGT guys (or girls)!!!!!!
  5. Castrol Euro 0w30 and 0w40 are waay different from a domestic RC 0w30. I’m not sure they are “perfect” but they have v. good HTHS and higher viscosities at 40c and 100c than any “normal” 5w30, let alone any “normal 0w30 RC oils. Allegedly they are still P4, or more P4 than most others. M1 0w40 is well-regarded for our engines and I assume the Pennzoil Euro platinum 5w30 and Euro 0w40 are good as well. P4 may be a thing of the past though as mfgr’s have figured out how to get P3’s to do quite well. I’ve bought some Pennzoil GTL Platinum Ultra for my Ford Ecoboost turbo van, and could consider it for the Subaru, when I run out of Euro Castrol. I don’t race or cross.
  6. I read much of this and totally freaked out. Here was someone posting "real data" but unfortunately for me, it practically condemned Castrol 0w30, 0w40, several highly-thought-of Rotella's, and several other Castrol's. I currently use the Castrol 0w30 euro. What seemed to bubble to the top were M1 0w40, M1 5w30 believe it or not, and most QuakerState Ultimate Durabilities (of various weights). Pennzoil Ultra Plats also fared well. Also Amsoil Signature 5w30, and several versions of MaxLife hi-mileage If you choose to be a 540RAT disciple, consider a couple things in his rankings: QSUD 5w30 has "incredible" (his word) anti wear numbers at his normal testing temp (230F), equally impressive at 275F (which he tests a chosen few oils at), but begins thermal breakdown at an in between temp of 260F (hmmm???). M1 5w30 has "incredible" anti wear at 230, but drops off considerably at 275. It's thermal breakdown is at only 255. M1 0w40 is "incredible" at 230, and still so at 275, and has high thermal breakdown temp 285, but he goes on to say it's too thick for most modern engines. Rotella's in general are rated poorly at the 230F, and begin breakdown at 250F-260F. He doesn't say much reassuring about them. PUP is "incredible" at 230, very good at 275, and thermal breakdown at 290, among the best in that regard. (So if I become one of his disciples, that's my chosen one. In fact, I may choose it for my Ecoboost 3.5 van). The Castrol 0w Euro's stink at 230, but have high thermal breakdown temps, 290, same as the PUP. They're NOT the latest versions with TI, nor are they the early green stuff, I presume, so maybe there's hope I haven't ruined my engine using them. There, I just boiled down his 2 gazillion word rant for you, as it might relate to a Subaru 2.5 turbo. Oh wait, he claims over and over that zinc doesn't matter, unless there is too much, then it really hurts. He cast doubt on my pre-conceptions, and opinions. So maybe that's good, but I don't feel I've got much solid ground to base my Castrol 0w30 choice on any more. So now I'm looking at "anti540RAT" blogs/posts. There are some. Also discovered how "thick" these Castrol 0w Euros are at the "cold" temp of 40F. Hmmm
  7. Here you can see their other models: http://www.bilsteinus.com/products/performance-suspension-kits/bilstein-b12-pro-kit/ I THINK b4 is twin tube, b6 and up are monotube. PSS is more like a coilover with adjustable perch in front, and $$$. BTS is a kit (includes springs). I thought BTS5056 & 5058 used the b6-level dampers. Not sure what 5088 uses, maybe b8, maybe still b6. B12 & b14 are apparently kits too, like BTS. Looks like no b12 for Subies. Clear as mud???
  8. Us. You, me, and a few others. My rear shocks are as ghetto as yours...at least. (Still, better than KYB)
  9. The ghetto version would be to get stock LegacyGT Wagon springs (there are different front versions for auto vs 5-sp), USA HD Bilsteins in front, and here's where it gets ghetto: rear HD Bilsteins with huge spacers or maybe weld on an additional eyelet to the bottom of the existing eyelet, thereby extending the effective length of the body of the rear shock. I'm 99.9% sure the OEM GT Wagon springs are in the ballpark, unless you are racing, and would mate up reasonably well with USA HD Bilsteins. The only caveat is the rear HD's are much shorter than the Outback rear shocks, so you must somehow extend them. I wouldn't get overly concerned with the stroke length, but body length is too short. Front HD's are also shorter, but only 0.75 inch. Using GT springs lowers a bit more, but not too much. Its even possible the 5088 kit uses these front struts, or the bodies (no clue on the internals). I have BTS springs all around. In front, I have the HD struts. In back I have some odd JDM struts, which I had revalved to be equivalent to the rear HD's (although longer body, and longer stroke). I have no idea where you would get these rear shocks today. After going through great pains to get the BTS springs out of New Zealand, comparing them with the USDM LGT springs, the fronts are very close to identical, and though the rears are different, I again would say they are within spitting distance. Pictures of my car are somewhere in here. It is lowered. It is stiffer. It is composed, though gets annoying on rough roads. More noise too. Its possible OEM Spec B front springs would add additional compliance, since I believe they are softer. Of course, be prepared to add spacers here or there to level things out, but I have none, since my rears have maybe 2" of adjustability. P.S. +1 on getting a fatter rear sway. I've thought of adding a fatter front bar, but its not a priority. (in fact the whole Subaru thing has become less of a priority for me). Without going wild, if you want a little lowering, I think the next best thing could be the LGT wagon springs on KYB struts (rears are for 02-04) It would be an interesting experiment to get the Sachs shocks / struts instead of KYB, available from eShock. I would expect good comfort, but no idea if better or worse than KYB. Even the 02-04 rear KYBs are underdamped, though much better than the 05-09 rear ones.
  10. Which way the notch faces depends on the springs, but generally they should face the same way, for instance, BOTH facing left, or both facing rift side of car. Or both to rear. Experiment with one, then match the other. Something about how the top of the spring mates to the rubber mount, it provides a slight angle
  11. IF you're asking about BTS kit: It uses a different type of upper rear mount, not like the ones in your link, and not like USDM. I can't remember where this was discussed, but I actually have a post (not sure if here on LGT or if on Subaruoutback.org with a picture and maybe part number. its definitely for JDM and for mor tapered spring. Part # is in post 46 above. But there is nothing that can go wrong unless they didn't install the small rubber buffer ( not thick like the USDM) or they didn't tighten the mounting bolts under your rear cargo floor. Now, if they mounted them with USDM mounts, that may be your problem. Edit: see: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/bilstein-bts-outback-xt-kit-pictures-111880p12.html?highlight=JDM+rear+Bilstein+mount Starting at around post 169, pics & discussion
  12. Well, I can't read Japanese, but appears current bid is 50,000 Y. I think that is ~ $520. Of course the wild card is shipping to USA. FWIW, I looked into the BTS 5088 kits today which are down to under $1400 US...plus shipping (and/or whatever other charges need to be applied). 5088 offers somewhat stiffer springs and lower ride height. Of course my Bilstein setup is so bastardized, I have no idea whether stiffer springs & lower ride height would be a good things or not.
  13. Admittedly, the springs I saw we're used, and might not have been as advertised, but the front spec B springs were much longer than LGT (at least as long as OB XT) and thinner gauge. I never mounted them, but had the impression they would result in higher ride height than LGT mounted on the same strut. But maybe they would sag more given the thinner gauge. This was always baffling to me given spec B allegedly being higher perf. Maybe softer spring mates better with Bilstein, IDK.
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