DoDo1975

Thanks for this writeup. Its almost comical how easy this was when I think about all the times I have tried to do repairs on this car that should be simple and had me banging my head against the wall for hours.

Benny, Any way to discount shipping to Canada? Need a couple OCVs for 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Limited

This was very useful. Helps give some confidence to those of us that aren't too familiar with mechanics. One question, I have put all my injectors back in. Do I need to prime or do something to the coolant tank to remove air from in there. I assume not but just wanted to check.

OK, we have established that the engine must come out, no way around that. Including taxes, duty and shipping it will cost me around $2300 dollars to purchase a short block How long will it take to pull out and replace the piston once the engine is out. If I have cheap mechanic labour, this might make sense. Roughly $200 to hone the cylinder. Piston and rings are roughly $250. Seems like I could save close to $1800 assuming that the diagnosis is correct. If I am not keeping the vehicle, is this a better option?

If I am certain that the issue is related to rings and/or ringlands, can I not just replace the piston and rings? If I plan on selling the car, do I really do $5k work to it? Can I replace a piston without removing the whole engine? It looks like I can access the crankshaft via the oil pan from below. Can I remove and replace a piston this way?

Not burning much oil, but the oil appears quite dark. I got the results from the leakdown. Dry test 95 psi Wet test 120 psi Leakdown 95 --> 35 psi All normal in cylinder 2.

OK Thanks, If I continue driving it do I risk damage to something I wouldn't be replacing anyway (ie I don't really care if I mess up the pistons or heads do I?). Is there some known way of getting some $ back for the block that you tae out? Seems like shouldn't be too much work to fix this once the engine is all out. On that note, is there rebuilt blocks or not worth it?

That seems quite drastic, but I read a little bit and engines don't seem that expensive. Do I risk any damage to my vehicle if I continue driving in its current state? If the block, pistons etc are going to be replaced in the future, can anything go wrong and damage something else? Is there some way I can get something for my engine? Are there rebuilt ones out there?

I have had another leakdown test and now it appears as though something is drastically wrong. My # 4 cylinder seems to be leaking into the PCV, I haven't got the numbers from the shop but leakdown loss is greater than 30% in cylinder 4 and fine in the others. No sound from tailpipe or intake, but gurgle from pcv/oil. What does this mean and what kind of repairs am I needing?

BTW Curious what others have paid to replace a burnt valve, and whether they replaced all 4 or just the two on the side with the problem????

140+

I took my car in again, this time to the dealership. THey said I had only 95 psi compression in cylinder 4?? So one shop said compression was fine, the other said it wasn't. My question is is there a way for an intermittent compression problem that may mean that the valve is gummed up in some way, but not burnt? Is it possible to get away without a valve replacement, and just a seafoam treatment or something instead? Can I get this POS running well again without laying out $2k????

ANy tips on how to use the Seafoam? SHould I just put it in my fuel for a while, or treat the engine in some other way.

Update on my issues. 2005 Subaru Legacy GT ltd. To recount, I was having rough idle, and "lugging" at low RPMs (sub 3000) when accelerating. Seems OK when RPMs get past that. I am getting a misfire in #4 cylinder. So far I have: replaced injector cleaned MAF/IAT Replaced Air Filter Swapped Coil Packs Checked Blue Tee Vacuum Lines Had compression check (all > 130) Replaced the orange o-ring between the intake manifold and TGV I really have no clue where to go next??? Any help is appreciated. Maybe I have been looking at the wrong cylinder. I am looking at the cylinder closest to the driver (rear of engine bay, drivers side in North America). I really don't know what else this could be?? HELP!!

Can the upper intake manifold be removed and the o-rings replaced without removing the entire intake manifold?