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Swine

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  • Location
    Atlanta, Ga
  • Car
    05 LGT & 99 WR400 SUMO
  • Interests
    Cars, Motorcycles, Biking, Athletics

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  1. The only thing that could really be off on your install is the booster rod length. Make no mistake, if your pedal is immediately firm and pad engagement is quick but the pedals requires more pressure to create the same braking force as previous, the install is very much probably right. Im not a writer, but myself, my family, and my extended friend group have been consumers of tuneable/fast/fun cars for over a decade. I would hate to count up all of the stock, modified, and/or other cars that i have driven both on the street and on the track. Always with the intent of being critical of car, trying to learn and consume what is right, wrong, good, and bad. This may just be a flat difference of opinion. Its simple for me, between driving the OEM and STI master and booster, i know which brake pedal i would prefer to be behind.
  2. Fen, not to beat a dead horse on this topic but just thought of something. I think the rest of us are looking for a more sporting and athletic brake feel. We get that along with an abnormally stiff pedal comparatively to OEM brakeing system. If you have ever driven aftermarket BBK/track setup, a stiffer pedal with higher precision potential is preferred. NOT saying the Sti booster/mc is perfect, but it comes way closer to achieving that feel then any magic combination of stiffeners and braces on the OEM booster and master.
  3. Agreed, my only agruement against that is that i felt specifically that braking feel greatly improved(imo). If you prefered the feel of the OEM brakes, then so be it, there is nothing else to discuss here. I particularly found the brakes to feel more like a BBK/other sports cars brakes ive had the opportunity to get track time in, and greatly prefered that feeling and how it translated into my braking action while driving athletically/on the track.
  4. Fen i directly disagree with you on the opinion that this is swag. Of course changing the master and booster isnt going to provide a stronger brakeing system, this is a very basic concept and the fact that you didnt understand the first go around makes me second guess your general car knowledge. The purpose for me doing this, and many others, was to remove pedal take up, mush at the top of the pedal travel, AND the sudden ballooning in the braking force that you subsequently have once your pads finally engage. Why? Because there is an ungodly amount of this on most OEM and/or modified OEM LGT braking systems. Negates all feel? Please go into this further. There are three components of feel; pressure, a corresponding increase in brakeing force with the addition of more pressure, and the ability to modulate the brakes at lockup. ALL of these functions, in my experience, were improved apon, ESPECIALLY compared to the severely lack luster OEM booster and master. It may not be perfect, if thats what you were shooting for, but it is sure as hell alot better then the OEM.
  5. Pads and fluid are still always a wonderful idea. But if giving your brake pedal feel a complete make over is the goal, the Master/booster swap is THE ticket.
  6. I to owned 2 prior WRX's, one being a wagon with the H6 rear upgrade. Ive never felt the need to address the master and booster on any of my other cars. Stoptech street pads are rebranded Axis Ultimates FYI, they are a nice economical option that are quiet and medium dust. Ive tracked mine with out any cooking or major fade. Best value based aftermarket pad, but there are certainly higher performing aftermarket pads.
  7. Sorry SBT, but unless you have an LGT that is an outlier for some reason, you are flat out incorrect. The results of the people on this board clearly indicate an issue with the OEM LGT braking system. My problems and results mirrored their own That fact that you have driven sophisticated cars does not mean much to me, or anyone else. What you can do is explain to me what you think makes a good brake pedal feel, and why you believe your LGT has it. Quite frankly from the statements you have made so far, im not so sure you understand how brakes work at all, or perhaps their dynamics. Im surely not an engineer, but i do understand some basics below. Feel free to correct or address, please keep in mind im referring to a "normally" operating brake system in non extreme circumstances. 1)All brakes use hydraulic brake fluid. This fluid is not appreciably compressible, regardless of brand or make. 2)The only time you get real compression in your hydraulic brake fluid is after air is trapped in the system and the bubbles themselves are compressing. 3)So changing or flushing fluid, unless air is present, will have no change in A)Pedal feel or B)Pedal take up. A)No change in pedal feel. Why? Because regardless of what fluid you run, there is no compression in your brake fluid unless air and/or contaminates are present. B)Pedal take up not improving. Why? Because when you actuate your brakes, thanks to your Mastercylinder and Booster, the same amount of fluid is still pushed through your brake lines. What does this mean?? This means the brake pads move the exact same distance they did previously. So if your pedal take up sucked then, then its going to suck now. Since you also mentioned Pads, of course pads are going to improve pedal feel and bite once the pads are actually engaged and contacting the rotors. OUR problem is the massive pedal take up and pedal slop before the brake pads actually engage. So if the pedal slop and take up is still a problem after most of us have done the pad and fluid change, whats left? Simple, alter the amount of fluid being compressed to the brake calipers in relation to pedal stroke. With the STI Master and Booster, you get more fluid movement with less pedal actuation. Have owned 2 prior STI's, it literally feels like my old trusty Brembo's are back underneath my brake pedal. Take up is immediate, pedal is firm, power is nicely linear, communication is mediocre but that is likely a function of my Stoptech pads more then anything else. These rating were all poor in OEM form, and improved only slightly with a pad change and fluid flush. If you are going for brake feel -Master and Booster 70% -Pads 15% -Fluid change 15% For others reading this, changing just your master and booster will completely change your braking dynamics. It WILL NOT improve braking performance or fade. Once the pads have made contact with the rotors, its all up to the pads and fluid to handle the heat(as far as the dynamic side of the braking equation, you still have the static side including but not limited to your rotors and airflow for cooling).
  8. His symptoms are what everyone experiences in LGT's who knows what a real brake pedal feels like. His experiences mirror my own, no amount of any aftermarket add on is going to fix the core issue of a Master and BB that was designed poorly. Everyone who has swapped to a new master and BB can confirm, everyone who has not still think its a pad and fluid issue.
  9. Ive been fighting the, "the GS master cylinder fixes my terrible brakes" pill for a while. Its insane how...uneducated and possibly clueless some people can be. Glad to the light is finally start to shine on the source of the problem for more people now. If i owned a stock LGT and i still hated my brake feel, i would do exactly 3 things at once and enjoy much improved feel. -booster and master change -pad change -and you have to flush your fluid when you change the master anyways, so that as well. Its that simple.
  10. As mentioned in the other thread, the take up is easily adjusted by turning the cleavis. If you would like to remove the take up, try turning the cleavis a half turn at a time. I like alittle take up.
  11. Need to adjust your clevis if there is to much take up for your taste.
  12. I didnt match mine when I installed, say I can't comment specifically on your issue. However the cleavis is very much an adjustable tool, and you should be tuning it for your expectations. I hesitantly suggest don't let the brake lock up scare you. It starts very very mild and gradually progresses as the car is driven. It's readily apparent what's happening and not even the least bit dramatic. I would try 3-4 full turns out and see what you think. I can still feel alittle slack in mine that I could adjust out(not as significant as yours), but I am more then content and just going to let it ride.
  13. great thread and great tips that i had to learn the hard way. (adjusting the booster rod to the appropriate length for example, mine was to long and caused gradual brake lock up to eventual complete lock. Shortened the rod by 3-5 turns and i was good to go).
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