cjnewson88

Ah right, that makes a lot more sense then, if the circuit is controlled by a computer then there is likely always some small current running through it. I can happily report back that I bought 2 new LED bulbs and the problem is fixed. You guys nailed it. Cheers!

Ok thanks. Sorry, but what is BIU? I'll go get some new LED bulbs on my next days off and post here to let ya all know if it solves the problem.

Ok I'll try some new ones but that still doesn't make sense to me.. why would bulbs nearing the end of their life suddenly start turning on when they're not supposed to.... there shouldn't be any current going through that circuit at all...

Hi guys, got a new car a few months ago, 2011 legacy. The other day I noticed the map lights don't go off anymore. The most they do is go very dim, but they stay on, whether I'm driving, or the car is locked and I've left. Tonight I noticed for the first time they were flickering, sometimes they would go off for a few seconds, and then flicker back on. Very annoying driving at night with them flickering dimly away above me.... The door/off switch does nothing. Turning the map light on brings them on brightly, but then once switching off they just glow dimly again. Any ideas?

Fixed. Picked up another air flow sensor from the wreckers. Works good as new.

I dropped into my local subi shop today, code said it was the MAF. So I've taken it out and given it a good clean out with CRC MAF cleaner, still no success. I'll try again tomorrow and then head off to the wreckers and see if I can get a good 2nd hand one.

Hey guys, My 98 Legacy check engine light came on today randomly.. I drove it for about half an hour, parked up, and when I came back a couple of hours later I started it and the check engine light remained illuminated, and it idled rough. I popped the lid, checked the air flow sensor was still in correct, pulled it out and the engine shut off so that must be working fine. Plugged it back in, restarted, check engine light still there and still rough idle. So I drove it for a bit... every time I stopped and rpm dropped to idle you could feel something was wrong, but when it was driving and at revs above 1000rpm there was no difference at all. So, for now, I'm driving it as normal because it still runs fine.... Question is, what do you think is causing the check engine light to stay on? And am I fine to just keep driving it like I am..... Cheers

Figured while I'm back here I should give an update. So I drove the clutch like this for about 3 years before I finally bit the bullet and replaced the clutch itself. Made a world of difference. The clutch had got so bad that almost every time I drove the car the peddle would 'fade' until only the last inch or so of the full peddle movement would do anything to engage the clutch. Another issue also developed where if I had been driving along in 5th gear for a while and took my foot off the accelerator, it would pop back into neutral. Paid the cash, got a new clutch, it was like driving a new car. Still no idea why a dying clutch was causing the peddle to fade but anyway problem solved.

So a couple of days ago the brake lights were working fine. I towed a trailer for a few hours and now they don't work. Not sure if it's related to that or not but it seemed to happen after. I've checked the bulbs, found one blown and replaced it. Still brake lights don't work. I've checked the fuses, although blindly because I can't read japanese and can't seem to find a fuse box diagram that represents the one I'm staring at inside the car... I've checked the switch on the brake peddle by pulling the plug off and using a wire to bridge it, the lights still don't go. I don't have any way of checking whether there is power going to the switch or not. Any suggestions would be appreciated..

Ok cheers, eventually I'm gonna take it back to the guy who did it and get him to have a look, figured if I could do anything in the meantime I would.

Yeah doesn't seem to go down if you just hold it steady, you just have to push it further and further before it engages the clutch.

I started it cold and gave the clutch a bit of a working. Seems to just hold fine, but I'll see what it does if I take it for a drive.

Hi, it has fluid so I'm pretty sure.. but not 100% Will what sink?

Hi, originally posted this in the wrong area so I'm reposting it here.. So about 3 months ago I bought a 98 Legacy GTB wagon. First thing I did was get all the fluids changed, including the clutch fluid. Since then, although unknown if it's a direct result of the change, I find if I use the clutch a lot then it gets a 'deadzone'. To explain; When I first jump in, I only have to push the clutch down like an inch and it engages great. If I have to do a drive which requires a lot of clutch use, such as around town, then after a while when the car's all warmed up, I have to press the clutch peddle further and further in before it engages. It gets to the point where this 'deadzone' takes up almost the entire stroke of the peddle, and its only the last little inch that has to be pressed right to the floor which engages the clutch. When it gets that bad, the peddle will stay half pressed down, unless I put my foot behind it and apply some force to 'pop' it back out. Though, even when it stays half down, it doesn't make any difference because the clutch is still not engaged, or even riding. If I leave it for the night, come back the next morning, the first press of the peddle will be exactly the same deadzone, but then after that it's back to the normal peddle where I only have to press it 1 inch to engage it. I've been driving like it for a few weeks now, I don't usually do long drives so it typically occurs not far from my home and so I never bother about it. But I'm a little worried one day I'm going to need to do a lot of down driving and it's going to get so bad even full peddle down may not engage the clutch. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys, Chris.