a super simple custom install in a LGT sedan :) pics here
Finally had the pleasure to do another LGT!
This is what i call "wouldnt you like to have this instead of a prefab box in the trunk?" kind of install...the most simple level of custom intsall i do...:) uusally with total labor budget around the 500 dollar range for the entire car
1. good balanced SQ
2. keep spare but save as much room as possible
3. clean and stealthy
first off, I've been reading a lot about how manual LGT owners have a real issue getting the power wire into the cabin...resporting to under the car or wheel well or fender as such...now that i have done a manual LGT, i really have to say the issue is really not that bad at all...
my rule of running wire through the firewall usually is:
in order of preference:
1. stock empty grommit
2. stock knock out panel in the insulation whcih contains a empty space behind it to drill
3. using the existing main wiring grommit on the car
in all the cars i hvae ever done, i have yet to encounter one that doesnt work with these three techniques. the LGT, did require me to go to number 3. whcih is very simple. there is a large stock wire pass through on the pasenger side firewall. what you wanna do is slice it open, pop it out a little, and feed the cable through. then after you loom it, you seal it a bit with silicone or stripe caulk. This is a very safeway to do the wire and acutally is pretty much teonly way to do Zs and Gs :)
here is a shot of where hte grommit is, this is the view before i applied the strip caulk:
and here is where it goes int he cabin:
takes about 5 mins, again very simple :) hope this helps...and if you are worried about leakage dont be, i have done probably over 200 vehciles over the years using stock pass throughs with no problems what so ever :) just dont slice it too huge and seal it a little, though honestly, even if yo udont seal it, most of the cars dont have an issue anyway...
moving on an AVO single din kit replaces the stock cubby, and a kenwood headunit resides there, supplied by the customer, i forgot the model number off hand, but it comes with usb input .
i also installed a customer supplied bluetooth unit, and had the mike here:
i also routed his USB input cable and minijack aux input cable to his center arm rest:
a pair of DLS ultimate UX26 6.5" high end coaxials reside in the stock locations,
via spacers, the entire door was dampened partially by the customer and i finished the job, new wires were routedd into the door so no resuing stock wiring here :))
moving on to the trunk, a simple, backward facing enclosure was built, and this is this the view covered up:
the sub enclsoure also house the two elemetnal designs nine.2 amps, bracketing a single image dynamics ID12, a front sub panel was biult and routed out, covered in white suede to frame the sub and amps, and then a cosmetic panel was made to finish it off, here is the view with the cover off :)
and finally, a behind the scenes view of the subbox/amp rack and wire routing...
honestly, it sounds excellent for such a simple, two day install :) but i can let the customer chime in himself after he gets it back :)
Awesome as usual :D
cant see pics
^ nicely done!!!!!!!!!!!
Nice looking install as always. I've been meaning to ask you a question about your finishing technique.....Why do you choose to use 1/2" MDF for the cover panels rather than 1/4" masonite?
The reason I ask is that I spent 10 years doing similar work and found that properly supported 1/4" provides ample support and allows you to meet the edges a lot tighter (when not fibergalssing to the edges). This is in no way meant to criticize, I think your installs are always very clean and just wonder if using 1/4" might tighten up your edging work.
This is honestly meant to be a constructive question and in no way to be criticism.
i always use 1/2" as finish board, always...1/4 In my experience is too flimsy and break down over time and wear, i used to it with 1/4 too, but every year, i wouldh ave two or three installs come back with a cracked board, people put things in their trunk, had one guy with a bowling ball bag slide and hit the board and cracked it, and other guys have just had it go from moisture and wear...so by rule thinnest i use is 1/2" revne on verticle boards, fake floors i sometimes use even 3/4" cuase my goal is for people to be able to load what ever they wnat on there :)
1/4" is definetlyt easier to work with, and as far as coming close to the edges, you can get IMO marginally closer with 1/4, but thats more the advantrage when the surface you are meeting is deeply sloped, in those cases, i usually route out the back edges so the edges are only 1/4" thick by the board itself is 1/2" :)
:eek: something actually in my price range if i ever get this done!
Hope to meet you next time you come down Bing!
Right on, yeah I would usually support the 1/4" with 1/2" (cut close to the edges).
Keep up the excellent work, I miss those days and it's always nice to see tight installs (especially the ones with the detailed step-by-steps). :)
hehe hanger man, i will be down in LA a lot next month, picking up a scion, droping it off, then picking up an IS300, then droppping it off and then perhaps droppping off an 08 Vette :)
we will meet up one time for sure...though i probably wont have my LGT with me :(
Ok... So I wanted to really put this system to the test before I chimed in and gave a review on it. Let's just say my commute home last night was quite enjoyable! So far I have spent about 3 hours listening to various tracks from various artists ranging from Ben Harper to Tool and from Linkin Park to Eazy-E.
Let me first say this was money well spent! Bing asked me what I wanted it to sound like and I told him I wanted something that was going to be clean, accurate and smooth, but still hit hard. DELIVERED!
The front Speakers (DLS ultimate UX26 6.5) are probably the component that impressed me the most. The mid-bass in these things hits amazingly hard and still manages to deliver an incredibly clean overall sound. Bing played a drum track (to showcase the mid-bass) for me when I picked up the car. The sound was amazingly accurate! I play drums and it impressed me. I think that's saying something. Very smooth speakers! Don't fatigue the ears at all.
The sub is amazingly clean and accurate as well. Very very tight. Double bass rolls are very punchy and very well defined (this excites me for obvious reasons). I have heard many a "premium" sound system mudd through or blurr out double bass sections. Not the case here... very responsive. It is also very clean and smooth through deep transitions. It handled the full spectrum of sounds through a couple of "Chemical Brothers" tracks very very well.
The fit and finish is beautiful. The pictures do not do it justice! The white suede is a very nice touch (thanks again Bing). I made my girlfriend feel it (insert joke here) when I had the trunk open and she made this sound that would fall somewhere between a humm and an Ooohhhh... It was a nice touch. Obviously you can see from the pictures that he does very clean, very professional work. He certainly comes with my highest recommendation. Make the drive to San Jose boys! It's worth it! I feel like I got my moneys worth and then some.
The deck is a Kenwood KDC-X591 if anyone is curious. The HU is nothing spectacular, but I liked the 3 4-volt preamps and USB and Blue-tooth capability.
The blue-tooth adapter is the Kenwood KCA-BT100. To be honest I haven't even set it up with my phone yet. I'm still playing with the features that make the pretty sounds! When I use it for a little while I'll post a review of it.
A quick thanks to customizer. I used your rear deck speaker grill walk through before I took the car to Bing. Made things very easy. I'll post a pic on your thread when I get around to it.
Worth every penny!
thanks for the kind words ryan :) that kind of comment is what makes my entire job worth it...i am in this because i want to get people to experience sound quality and good overall install,versus making the most buck...i know it sounds like lip service, but if you talk to my customers, you will find that to be the truth, on almost all my installs, i end up doing more on the installation than originally planned, simply becuase i feel like if i added the touch, i would get more satisfaction looking at the install and the customer would love it more :) (we originally planned on just a carpeted subbox/amp rack)...
i have simply seen too many hack jobs that costs some ridiculous amounts of money that sound and look terrible and want to offer something dramatically different :)
anyway...thanks again for letting me work on another LGT :) ever since i have gotten my car i have been wanting to do more and more LGTs, but havent had much chance (only two so far hehe)...but definetly enjoy it when i do get the chance :)
nice as usual Bing!
note - there's another spot to run the power wire...it's smack in the center of the firewall and requires removing the TMIC to get access (or maybe not if you've got smaller hands than I do :lol: ). It comes in behind the stock radio and you can run the wire in a slot in the rubber insulating pad down the drivers side of the transmission tunnel. Almost as if it was meant to be done this way.
kudo's to Manville from JL for the info:
You know, asian cars designed for asians with small hands?:p;)
My mechanic friends joke about that.
hehe i wish i had small hands...i AM asian :)
that other slot is cool, but i think i will still stick to the passenger side, that way i can keep the power cable as far away as the RCAs as possible since hte HU i will put in will originate there (obvious CS would be different) and i like running wires down the door sills for easy access and diagnosis...versus under the carpet alone the tunnel :)
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