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BDII 08-08-2007 06:03 AM

ATTN: New Members! Look here first.
First off.... Welcome to the forum!!!

I'm sure you signed up for this site because you have a million questions or you just want to meet some fellow Subaru Legacy owners.

This thread is for both of you!

PLEASE read through this thread prior to posting a new thread or asking any questions.

I have tried to compile as much information as possible into this, I am sure I am forgetting something.


Topic #1


99% of what you need/want to know can be found by using the sites SEARCH function. It is quite easy to use and is a wealth of knowledge.

1. At the top of your screen you have a tool bar. ALL the way to the right you will find a link that says "SEARCH"
2. Click that button and it will drop down.
3. Type in what you are looking for and hit "go"
4. This will bring up all of the threads that contain your search word.
(for example: if you search for "exhaust" all threads containing that word will propagate on your screen, in order of the last post made in the thread)
5. Search through the thread titles and and find a thread that seems appropriate.
6. Open that thread, hit search again. In the top right you will find a search by user, and top left, a search by post. You can use these options to find just posts, or threads, or individual member posts.
7. Bottom left you will find options to search by threads by # of posts, Posts by date, posts by user name, title, revelancy, # of replies, # of views, thread start date, Last posting date and forum.
8. A much easier way to search for the word "Exhaust" would be to enter the Advanced search box, select the forum in the bottom right "intakes and exhaust" select in the top right "search by entire post" enter "exhaust" in the key word box and hit "search now" at the bottom.


If you search a word that is 2 letters or shorter, For example AP = Access port, you will be unable to search for that because it has less than 3 letters

If you must search for a word or acronym that is 2 letters or shorter enter in ****
to make the word at least 4 letters for example AP = AP**

This will continue your search.

You can only search once every 15 seconds. If you search more than that, you will get this message: This forum requires that you wait 15 seconds between searches. Please try again in 7 seconds.

You can also use google to search the forum!!

Just type in what your searching for followed by


Ok, lets say you found the exhaust part you were looking for. Lets say it's a Catted Down Pipe. Now you have to decide which Down Pipe to buy.

This is where the REVIEW section comes in!

Same scroll bar the the Search button is in at the top of your screen you will find over on the left a review button. Click it.
This is a GOLD MINE of information:)

1. Find the type of product you are looking for. In our case, we are looking for down pipes. Down pipes fall under the first catagory "Turbo Powertrains".
2. Click the button that says "downpipes"
3. BAM! you have reviews of 12 different downpipes.
Pretty easy so far huh?

PART # 3

ok.... so you have decided which downpipe you want! Now you have to choose a vendor!

Allthough there are hundreds of vendors out there, I would HIGHLY recommend using a paying site vendor. The vendors who advertise on this site are approved by the site managment and are "usually" in good standing.
Be cautious of using vendors that do not advertise on this site as their products may be cheap knock offs.

To see a full list of vendors follow these instructions.

1. In your tool bar, select the button for "VENDORS"
2. This will propagate a list of the sites vendors.
3. This also gives you a vendors contact info and website link.

To see what specials and products a vendor may offer, Tide the site admin has created a vendor forum.

To get to this section first, log in, then follow these instructions.

1. From the main site page hit the button on your tool bar that says "FORUMS"
2. Scroll down 6 forums and you will find a section titled "Vendor Specific Forums"
3. Note: not all of the site vendors are listed here.
4. Enter the particular vendors forum that you are interested in and review their specials.

BDII 08-08-2007 06:03 AM


There is another and some what cheaper way to purchase products for your car.

This is buying a used or new (unused) product from another member.

Again, there is a forum designated for members to sell their parts. It is called the "Market Place"

1. Log in
2. From your tool bar select "forums"
3. Scroll down to the bottom of the first box
4. Hit the "The Market Place" button

In there you will find:

1. Vendor Announcements (all vendors can post here)
2. Vendor Classifieds
3. Member Classifieds
4. Member Calssifieds: wheels and tires
5. Cars for sale
6. Group buy forum (part prices are greatly reduced when a large number of members buy one particular product all at once)
7. Want to Buy (if you need a particular part and can't find, post it up in here and maybe another member has it collecting dust)

There are several things to consider when buying used parts:
1. What condition is the part in?
2. How many miles are on the part?
3. What is the cost of the part new compared to used?
4. The members iTrader score.
5. What will I need to buy in addition to this part so that it will fit? For Example: you will need gaskets for an Up pipe or downpipe, heat shield for the SPT intake, modded heat sheild for the Downpipe, inverted manifold for the VF39 turbo..

I mentioned in #4 that you should consider a members iTrader score.

This is one of my favorite recent additions to the site.
If you look at my screen name <----- and then scroll down a few boxes, you will see this: iTrader: (46)

1. If you click that it will pull up a screen that tells you what I have sold, and what other members think of my salesmenship. It always shows when I have been the buyer.

It gives you 3 possible selections for the outcome of a transaction

1. = positive which means that your product was delivered as promised
2. = that it was not a great experience, but not bad either.
3. = You were not satisfied with the product and or vendor/member

This is important to review prior to sending the money to a non vendor. A member with 5 posts and no iTrader is probably not a safe bet.

If a member has a on their record... you might want to look elsewhere or ask them or the other party involved to explain the situation to you.

Make sure that if you buy a product off of a vendor or member that you leave them iTrader feedback, as they will do the same for you. This will make it easier in the future for you to buy and sell products.

Ok.... so your ready to pull the trigger on that Downpipe?

Here is a few other things to remember!

1. How much will shipping cost? Some vendors ship for free!! Allways ask shipping prices before you buy!!
2. Shop around, don't be afraid to call vendors and ask for a price match or to beat a price. Most vendors will!
3. Use it!!! just remember that some vendors/members will charge a 3% fee, as paypal charges them the same. Avoid sending or accepting personal checks. Cashier checks, bank checks and western union are pretty good.
4. If you are buying a used part, DEMAND PICTURES!!! make sure you get all of the angles sent to you. Especially when buying performance parts!! make sure there are no cracks, dents, blemishes ect ect ect. PICTURES ARE PARAMOUNT!!!
5. Insurance. USPS offers $100 free with every shipment. If the product is more than $100 ask the shipper to ensure and get a tracking number for it. If the product is damaged during shipping, and you didn't get insurance... you're at fault! Tracking numbers let you know that the product was shipped and also allows you to be home with the part arrives. I would also recommend getting "signature required" added to it too. This way no one walks off with your $750 access port that the mailman left on your door step.

Ok... so you found the downpipe you wanted and it has arrived on your door step! What next?

Install time of course!!

Part #4
Installs and Basic Maintenance and Common Problems

After you are sure you have all the parts and accessories you need you are ready to install. This is the hardest part of all unless you have prior experience.

If you plan on having it installed for you, then please read below. If you plan on installing it yourself, skip down a little.

Paid Installation:

1. SHOP AROUND!!! find a qaulified shop. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!! If the install is done incorrectly.... it can have the potential of blowing your motor, transmission, turbo, suspension.. ect ect ect...
2. Shop around for price. Most places charge by the hour. Anywhere from
$50-$350 an hour USD.
3. Call several places, see who is the lowest, ask them if they are familiar with your product and how to install it.
4. Make sure you look in the vendors forum to see if there are any local vendors. Their install prices are usually the most reasonable and often do free or reduced price installs if you buy the product from them.
5. Make sure you bring them everything you they need to do the install (minus tools... duh?) Gaskets, washers, nuts/bolts, hangers ect ect ect... if they provide their own parts, things will get expensive.

Self Install:

1. Make sure you know what you are doing. Don't let your pride get in the way of a very expensive car.
2. Make sure you have ALL THE TOOLS YOU NEED.
3. Make sure you have all the accessories you need!!!
4. Take your time
5. Use the forum titled "walkthroughs"


1. From your tool bar select "forums"
2. 3rd box down you will find walkthroughs
3. For oil changes and basic maintenance, use "Basic Maintenance"
4. For advanced installs use "performance modifications"

Read here first before posting a new thread!!!!

From time to time you may have an issue with your car. Not everyone has them, but some do.

MOST of these problems are common, and there have been Multiple, if not hundreds of threads about them.

For example:

1. The stutter...(slight hesitation during low RPM accelleration) Alot of members have reported it, not a single person knows waht causes it. HOWEVER we do know that if you go to your dealership they can reflash the cars ECU and it has been proven to help. Also, a COBB accessport helps eliminate it too.
2. Seat belt Chime disable... Again... a million threads about this. HERE IS THE LINK
3. Clutch pedal squeak..... again.. covered hundreds of times... LINK
4. Day Time Running Light disable Again.. covered a hundred times....
5. Head light blackout..... Link
6. Trunk Debadging LINK
7. Disabling audible chirps on alarm LINK
8. PARKING LIGHTS WILL NOT TURN OFF... no link needed for this one...Just click the button on top of the steering column. BAM! your done.
9. ILL6. ILL7, ILL8 on read out screen. This is caused by either a faulty switch, or your knee hitting the illumination button on the left hand side of the dashboard.
10. Clutch smell/burning smell in cabin. 2005 model owners reported smelling up to 15,000 miles after purchase. It is normal, it will go away.

If you don't see it here^^^^


BDII 08-08-2007 06:04 AM

Pre Purchase Questions

So you are unsure whether you are getting a good deal? Not sure if the dealer is taking you for a loop? Check this out...

I am a former new/used car salesman. And I am here to help you!!

1. There is a forum soley dedicated to this topic. It has a wealth of knowledge in it. From your tool bar, select "forums"
2. In the top box, 4th link down, select Pre-Purchase Questions.
3. Search around for your question.

Things to remember when buying new...

1. Car prices vary from state to state
2. Some states have sales tax, you may pay 2K more than me because you have sales tax, and I don't.
3. Get local dealerships to compete. Go test drive the same car at 2 different dealerships. Get a price quote, then take that quote to the other dealer. MAKE THEM COMPETE!!! you would be suprised at the markup there is on some cars... especially the Spec B :lol:
4. Keep them competing. NEVER BUY THE SAME DAY!!! make them sweat. Make each dealer think that you have had a better experience at the other dealer. Make them WORK for your money. Make it a week long effort. make them sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeat!!! they hate that. If they give you the run arund, call them out on it.
5. Ok.. so you got the deal you wanted! FINANCING. Do it yourself.... Trust me on this.... most states do not have laws about how high they can jack your interest rate. Say you have a 766 Credit score. Now lets say you are eligable for 4.5%. the dealer, will up that to 6.5% and congradulate you on your impecible credit while they line their pockets with your hard earned money. DO NOT allow the dealership to run your credit. Apply at your own bank or credit union and you will save hundreds if not thousands.
6. Your Bank. Don't do online apps... go in and sit down with a bank associate. Ask them how much GAP insurance is (the insurance that covers the difference between what you owe, and what the car is worth in case you total the car). The dealership wanted $1200 for gap:mad::mad:. My bank wanted $199:eek:. Buy it, trust me, you will need it unless you put down alot of money.
Payment protection... Dealer charges $1500-2000, it actuall costs them about $500. Dealers are snakes, liars and cheaters.

Buy the car from them, not their bull****.

Remember, Do all the financing yourself. DO NOT ALLOW THE FINANCE MANAGER TO RUN YOUR CREDIT.

He will run it 10-30 times. Anything over 11 checks in one month period will DROP YOUR CREDIT SCORE UP TO 12 POINTS!!!

Find the car you like, tell them you are paying cash, tell them you want the lowest price possible. Make dealers compete.

And if at all possible... private sale your trade in... trade ins are where dealers make the most of their money. PRIVATE SALE!!!! it takes time, but Ebay is always a good option.


This is not as hard as you think! I promise!

You can sometimes find some pretty sweet deals on this forum:cool:

If you don't mind used and want a good deal.... go to the cars for sale forum.

Things to remember:
1. Ask for pictures, lots of them. If the vehicle is local, go look at it and drive it. Ask for pictures of any and all damage.
2. Ask the seller to have a certified mechanic inspect the vehicle. This will usually cost you anywhere from $25-$300. YOU PICK THE SHOP!!!
3. If the vehicle is a significant distance away, insist on it being taken to a subaru delaership for inspection.
4. Ask for all maintenance records. Make sure oil changes were completed at least every 7500 miles or 4 months.
5. Make sure all regularly scheduled maintenance was completed. Ask for proof.
6. Ask what, if any performance modifications were done. Modified cars are not a bad thing, but abused cars are. We have members on here that have been stg 2 (heavily modified) for over 70k with no problems.
7. Ask who has been driving the car. Adults? teenagers?
8. Has the car been smoked in? These days, this doesn't really matter because there are different devices that can completely remove the smell. Burns is what you should be concerned with.
9. Has the car been tracked? has it run the 1/4 mile? 1/8th mile? autocross? these types of events can be extremely hard on the suspension and drivetrain. Be wary....
10. Get the warranty record. Only the owner can get this from subaru. This is a must! This will tell you what has been done warranty wise to the car, check for open recalls.
11. CarFax.... GET ONE!!! and buy the protection for $45. This will save your ass if you find the car was a salvage after you buy it.

BDII 08-08-2007 06:04 AM

Topic #6
Acronyms and Slang:

Often times while searching you find that members will use slang and acronyms. Here is a list of acronyms that you may find on the forum and their meanings:
Basic Terminology &amp; Acronyms
4EAT – Four Speed Electronic Automatic Transmission
5MT – Five Speed Manual Transmission
5EAT – Five Speed Electronic Automatic Transmission (includes Sportshift)
6MT – Six Speed Manual Transmission
ABS – Anti-lock Braking System
AT – Automatic Transmission
ATF – Automatic Transmission Fluid
AutoX – Autocross
AVCS – Active Valve Control Sysem
AVLS – Active Valve Lift System
AWD – All Wheel Drive
BHP – Brake HorsePower (measured BEFORE transmission)
BOV – Blow Off Valve
CAI – Cold Air Intake
Cat – Catalytic Convertor
CEL – Check Engine Light
CF – Carbon Fiber
CO2 – Carbon Dioxide
Diff – Differential
DOHC – Dual Overhead Camshaft
EBC – Electonic Boost Controller
ECT - Electronically Controlled Transmission
ECU – Electronic Control Unit (engine control unit)
EFI – Electronic Fuel Injection
EG – Subaru 6-cylinder engines (up through mid to late 90’s)
EGT - Exhaust Gas Temp
EG33 – Subaru 3.3 litre 6-cylinder engine code (SVX)
EJ – Subaru 4-cylinder engines (early 90’s and newer)
EJ20 – Subaru 2.0 litre 4-cylinder engine code
EJ205 – Subaru 2.0 litre turbo engine (US WRX)
EJ22 – Subaru 2.2 litre 4-cylinder engine code
EJ25 – Subaru 2.5 litre 4-cylinder engine code
EJ255 – Subaru 2.5 litre turbo engine (US Forester XT, Baja Turbo)
EJ257 – Subaru 2.5 litre turbo engine (US WRX STi)
EZ – Subaru 6-cylinder engines (post EG series H6 engines)
EZ30R – Subaru 3.0 litre 6-cylinder engine code (BL/BP Legacy and new Outback)
FDR - Final Drive Ratio
FMIC – Front Mount Intercooler
FWD – Front Wheel Drive
H4 – Horizontally Opposed 4 cylinder (boxer)
H6 – Horizontally Opposed 6 cylinder
HID – High Intensity Discharge (headlights)
JDM – Japanese Domestic Market
LSD – Limited Slip Differential
MAF – Mass Air-Flow Sensor
MAP – Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor
MBC – Manual Boost Controller
MIL – Malfunction Indicator Lamp (CEL)
MT – Manual Transmission
MY – Model Year
OEM – Original Equipment Manufacturer
RallyX – Rallycross
RWD – Rear Wheel Drive
SOA – Subaru Of America
SOHC – Single Overhead Camshaft
TMIC – Top Mount Intercooler
TT – Twin Turbo
UDP – Under Drive Pulley
VDC – Vehicle Dynamic Control
VIN – Vehicle Identification Number
VTD – Variable Torque Distibution
WHP – Wheel HorsePower
WOT – Wide Open Throttle
Thanks to Uncle Meat of the Cobb Tuning

JDM (Japanese Domestic Market) Info:
Twin-Turbo: This is one of the most loosely used term. Everyone wants a twin-turbo because Japan has had it. It was a sequential setup with one turbo used for the low end, while a larger turbo was used for the high end. However, it wasn’t the most optimal solution being its cost, complexity, and between the 1st to 2nd turbo transition, there was a decent dip in power. It has been proven that other solutions are more cost-effective and produce better results in general.

More on turbo tech below.

B4: The term used for sedan since the 1998 model year.

B4 RSK: The name given to the turbocharged sport Legacy Sedan in the 1998 to 2002 model years. Remember, Japan has been even further ahead in model changes. They receive their models 2 model years (or MY) ahead of the U.S.

Note: Previous to the BE-generation B4 RSK, the sedan turbo models were called ‘RS’.

GTB: The name given to the turbocharged sport Legacy Wagon in the 1993 to 2002 model years that used the sportier Bilstein suspension.

S401: The ONLY STi production Legacy to date. This 2003 BE sedan model was produced in a short-run and were rather expensive. It contained much gear from the current year Impreza STi though mostly in drivetrain and brakes. It still retained a sequential twin-turbo setup though with a few more ponies. It also received some suspension modifications including Bilstein struts along with BBS 18x7” wheels.

Body Styles (by USDM MY):
BC (1990-1994)
BD (1995-1999)
BE (2000-2004)
BL (2005-2009)

BF (1990-1994)
BG (1995-1999)
BH (2000-2004)
BP (2005-2009)

Turbochargers for USDM models:
Mitsubishi TD04 - USDM Impreza 2.0L WRX, 2.5L WRX, Forester XT, Baja Turbo
IHI VF40 - USDM BL/BP Legacy 2.5GT, Outback XT
(All are water cooled and use a thrust bearing design, not ball-bearing.) ------- SOA abbrev.------Numeric Code
Obsidian Black Pearl ---- OBP ------------- BLK -------------- 2J
Satin White Pearl --------- SWP ----------- WHI ------------- 7J
Brilliant Silver Metallic -- BSM ------------ SIL -------------- 9D
Titanium Silver Metallic - TSM ------------ SXV -------------- 8E
Garnet Red Pearl --------- GRP ------------ RED ------------- 3J
Regal Blue Pearl --------- RBP ------------- BDR ------------- 5J
Atlantic Blue Pearl ------- ABP ------------- BLU ------------- 3A

--Additional Outback-specific Colors and Combinations
Champagne Gold Opal --- CGO ------------ GLD ------------ 9J
Willow Green Opal/
Moss Green Metallic ----- WGO? ----------- GRM ----------- U5
Brilliant Silver Metallic/
Granite Gray Opal -------- GGO? ---------- SLV ------------- K3

--Other Subie Colors (not on Leg/OB matrix)
World Rally Blue ----------- WRB ------------ ??? ------------ ??
San Remo Red ------------- SRR
Sedona Red Pearl (old) ---- SRP
Java Black Metallic -------- JBM
Solid Red ------------------- SR

7AA Legacy Sedan i MT5 2.5
7AB Legacy Sedan i 4EAT 2.5 -S
7AC Legacy Sedan i SE MT5 2.5
7AD Legacy Sedan i SE 4EAT 2.5 -S
7AE Legacy Sedan i LTD 4EAT 2.5-S
7AH Legacy Sedan 2.5GT LTD MT5
7AI Legacy Sedan 2.5GT LTD 5EAT-S
7AJ Legacy Sedan 2.5GT LTD NAVI
7AS Legacy Sedan 2.5GT Spec. B 6M
7BA Legacy Wagon i MT5 2.5
7BB Legacy Wagon i SE 4EAT 2.5 -S
7BC Legacy Wagon i LTD 4EAT 2.5-S
7BH Legacy Wagon 2.5 GT LTD 5EAT-S
7CA Outback Sedan 2.5i Limited 4EA
7CB Outback Sedan LLBean 3.0R 5EAT
7CC Outback Sedan LLBean NAVI 3.0R
7DA Outback Wagon 2.5 i Basic 5MT
7DB Outback Wagon 2.5 i Basic 4EAT
7DC Outback Wagon 2.5i 5MT
7DD Outback Wagon 2.5 i 4EAT-S
7DE Outback Wagon 2.5 i Ltd 4EAT-S
7DH Outback Wagon 2.5XT Ltd 5MT
7DI Outback Wagon 2.5XT Ltd 5EAT-
7DJ Outback Wagon 2.5XT Ltd NAVI
7DK Outback Wagon 2.5i LLBean NAVI
7DL Outback Wagon 2.5i Ltd LLBean
7DM Outback Wagon H6-3.0 R LLB 5EA
7DN Outback Wagon H6-3.0 R LLB NAV
7FA Forester X FAWD MT5 2.5
7FB Forester X FAWD 4EAT 2.5
7FC Forester X MT5 2.5 Premium Pack
7FD Forester X 4EAT 2.5 Premium Pack
7FE Forester X Cross Sports MT5
7FF Forester X Cross Sports 4EAT
7FG Forester X LL Bean 4EAT
7FH Forester Cross Sports MT5 2.5
7FI Forester Cross Sports 4EAT 2.5
7FJ Forester XT MT5 2.5 Turbo LTD
7FK Forester XT 4EAT 2.5 Turbo LTD
7JA Impreza Sedan 2.5i 5MT
7JB Impreza Sedan 2.5i 4EAT
7JC Impreza Sedan WRX TR 5MT
7JD Impreza Sedan WRX 5MT
7JE Impreza Sedan WRX Limited
7JF Impreza Sedan WRX Limited I 5M
7JG Impreza Sedan WRX Limited 4EAT
7JH Impreza Sedan WRX Limited I 4EAT
7JI STI 6MT - Alloy Wheel Gold
7JJ STI 6MT - Alloy Wheel Silver
7JK STI 6MT - Limited
7JN Impreza Sedan 2.5i SE
7JO Impreza Sedan 2.5i SE 4EAT
7LA Impreza Wagon 2.5i 5MT
7LB Impreza Wagon 2.5i 4EAT
7LC Impreza Wagon WRX 5MT
7LE Impreza Wagon WRX Limited 5MT
7LF Impreza Wagon WRX Limited I 5M
7LG Impreza Wagon WRX Limited 4EAT
7LH Impreza Wagon WRX Limited I 4EAT
7LK Impreza Outback Sport MT5 2.5
7LL Impreza Outback Sport 4EAT 2.5
7LM Impreza Outback Sport SE MT5
7LN Impreza Outback Sport SE 4EAT
7TA B9 Tribeca - 5SEAT Fabric
7TB B9 Tribeca - 5SEAT Limited- G
7TC B9 Tribeca - 5SEAT Limited - B
7TD B9 Tribeca - 5SEAT Limited/NAV- G
7TE B9 Tribeca - 5SEAT Limited/NAV- B
7TH B9 Tribeca - 7SEAT Fabric
7TI B9 Tribeca - 7SEAT Limited - G
7TJ B9 Tribeca - 7SEAT Limited - B
7TK B9 Tribeca - 7SEAT Limited/NAV- G
7TL B9 Tribeca - 7SEAT Limited/NAV- B
7TM B9 Tribeca - 7S-LTRAUD/DVD/NAV- G
7TN B9 Tribeca - 7S-LTRAUD/DVD/NAV- B

MT5: 5 speed manual
5EAT-S: 5 speed automatic with sport shift
4EAT-S: 4 speed automatic with sport shift
5EAT: 5 speed automatic
4EAT: 4 speed automatic
SE: Special Edition (base model+power driver seat+moonroof)
NAVI: Navigation System
LTD: Limited (base model+leather+power seats+moonroof+dual zone climate+upgraded stero)

Model Code Key
The codes change every model year
First Spot: The "7" USUALLY means the model year (ex; 7 = 2007).
Second Spot: The letter after the 7 denotes the body style by car (ex LEGACY Wagon is a "B" while OUTBACK wagon is a "D").
Third Spot: The last letter is actually alphanumeric. It starts with the least expensive model/trim/engine level in each different body style and goes up. It starts over at "A" with every body style.

ok... occasionally you are gonna come across acronyms/slang that you have no idea what it means...

OMG, WTF, TTIWWOP, STFU, IBTL ect ect ect ect....

Use this

Just be aware that some acronyms may not be work safe...

BDII 08-09-2007 09:38 AM

Topic #7
Posting and Threads:

Anyone who has ever visited an online forum before is, or should be aware of the proper posting etiquette. This topic is not only for the new to Subaru member, but also the new to forums/posting members.

The online community is far different than your own local community. We have members from all over the world that speak a variety of different languages and have very different beliefs than our own.

All topics that you post need to be appropriate to view in a work setting. Also, any thing that you type or link should be appropriate too. Some members post from work and can easily lose their jobs if they are caught viewing something inappropriate.

Also, talk about illegal street racing is forbidden. Not only is this illegal..... but very dangerous and the majority of members on here will not tolerate it.

A message from the site owner:


Originally Posted by Tide
Starting August 10th 2005, we'll no longer allow kill stories on that do not occur either on a racetrack or dragstrip. Street racing is illegal and posting such stories on the board not only can get me in trouble, but can be used against the poster in a court of law.

With this being said lets jump into our next topic, posting and threads.

Many online communities, such as this one, generally frown upon what is called a "repost". A repost is simply posting something, whether it be a question or a link to a new website, that someone else has already posted.

I know this doesn't seem like something that is a big deal, but in truth it is.
A good majority of the members on this forum are willing to help you in anyway they can. All that we ask is that if you have a question, do a quick search to make sure that the same question hasn't already been posted.
Also, if you find an interesting review, a funny article or anything else worth posting please check to make sure that it is not already posted.

Now let's talk about posting threads in the proper forum.

When you hit "forums" from your tool bar it will pull up a list of all of the available forums. From this page you can navigate through all of the different topics this Site has to offer.

Underneath each forum name you will find a description. This will tell you exactly what each forum is designed for. If you are unsure feel free to Private Message any Moderator or me and we will help you decide which forum is most appropriate for your thread. CLICK ME TO GET A LIST OF MODERATORS< THEIR NAMES ARE IN PINK

A good place to start is the "New Member Introductions" forum.

When you open the "New Member Introductions" forum on the top left of the list of threads you will see a button that says "New Topic".

1. Hit the "New Topic" button
2. Enter your choice of appropriate title in the "title" box
3. In the larger open box enter in your message.
4. To make the thread viewable to others, hit "submit new thread"

You will be unable to see the new thread unless you do one of the following things:

1. hit "UserCP" from the tool bar, scroll to the bottom of the page, on the right hand side and hit "view all subscribed threads"
2. Re-enter the forum and view all of the new threads
3. someone else posts in the thread you just created.


From time to time you may need to get in contact with another member or a member of the site staff.

For that reason this forum has what is called a "Private Message" system.

It is very similar to email and sends instantaneously.

To use the private message system follow these instructions:

1. If you wish to Private Message a member about a post simply look at the top right section of their post. You will see 4 boxes. Click the one that says "Send PM"
2. Enter the title of the PM
3. enter your message
4. Hit submit message.

Your done!

When your message is read and the member replies you will get a pop up on your screen. Hit "ok" to the first one if you want to view it "cancel" if not. A second pop up will come up, it will read "would you like to open this in a separate window?" If you hit yes, it will open a new browser and display the other members reply. If you hit "cancel" it will open it up in the browser you are already using.

Posting Pictures

From time to time you will need to post pictures.

Follow these simple instructions for posting pictures.

For attaching pictures (pictures from your computer)

1. Open the thread that you wish to post a picture in and scroll to the bottom
2. At the bottom of the posting box hit "Go Advanced"
3. Type in any text you need
4. Scroll down and hit "Manage Attachments"
5. This will open a separate screen (you may need to enable popups)
6. Hit browse, and select your picture (if picture exceeds 160kb it will not load)
7. Hit upload and your picture will upload to the forum.
8. your pictures will appear truncated at the bottom of your post.

For HOTLINKING pictures

1. Open the thread that you wish to post a picture in and scroll to the bottom
2. in the tool bar of the posting box you will see a small yellow square box that has a mountain and a setting sun. Click that.
3. A pop up will appear asking you for the URL. Paste the URL for the picture into the box.
4. hit ok.
5. And you're done :lol:

NOTE: no one likes HUUUUGE pictures... so shrink them to 800 x 600 at the largest using your computer.

BDII 08-13-2007 08:07 AM

TOPIC # 10
Modification Stages

There have been a large number been an increased number of threads popping up lately asking about what the stages of modification are.
Below is a list of of stages and what is required.

Stage 1:
Stage 1 is generally the starting and ending point for a majority of the members on this board. Stg1 is the least likely of all of the stages to void your warranty and is also the cheapest.
Stage1 consist of the following mods: COBB Access Port,getting a street or dyno tune or downloading off the shelf maps and loading them using your own laptop. Typical Wheel horsepower ratings for a stock legacy is 191WHP. With the stage 1 alone your looking at around 225WHP and COST: There are two versions of the access port.
1. Version 1: Older, but cheaper. Can't really buy these new anymore so they usually go for around $300-$400 used depending on the maps you get with it. They are no longer supported by COBB
2. Version 2: Smaller, faster and more functions. Usually around $900-$1000 new
Stage 2:

Stage 2 at a minumum: Cattless stock down pipe/after market catted/catless down pipe. The key to stage 2 is either the stock catylatic converter is removed from the down pipe or a high flow or catless down pipe is added. You will also need to use a stage 2 map. WHY???? because you will need to eliminate your EGT (Electronic Gas Temperature) which monitors your exahuast temps.
Stage 2 can also consist of: Catless up pipe, top mount intercooler, Dyno tune, ProTune, Cat back exhaust, Intake and certain turbo upgrades. REMEMBER, its not nessacarily the mods that make you a stage, it's the amount of mods and the correct combination. Wheel Horse power ratings usually range from 240 - 260 depending on your tune. COST
This really depends on what parts you buy... It can range from $400 - $2000
$400 = used access port and decatting your own stock DP. $2000+ if you buy all the parts listed
Stage 2.5:
Some members may disagree with me on this... but this is an in between point of stg 2 and 3. For stage 2.5 you need(at a minimum): Up pipe, Down Pipe, Top mount intercooler, COBB AP, DYNO or protune. Basically at this point you have maxed the potential of your stock turbo and Injectors (19.5 lbs of boost is the highest safe range with our turbos and injectors) this stage can also include cat back exhaust, headers and Intake. Wheel Horse Power ratings usuall go from 245-290 (max) with these mods, depending on your tune. At a minumum your gonna spend $2000+ for new parts. Again.. you can find all this stuff used for much cheaper.
Stage 3:
As you may or may not know the legacy motor can hold a HUGE amount of pontential. Stage 2.5 and 3 really show off this potential. Stage 3 mods- Up pipe, down pipe, cat back exhaust, Intake, larger Top mount intercooler (for smaller aftermarket turbo installations) Front mount intercooler (for larger turbo applications) DYNO or Protune ( a must with an aftermarket turbo) Bigger Fuel Injectors (a must with a bigger tubo) Bigger Fuel pump, Bigger Turbo.
Other recomendations that you should consider: Alcohol/Methanol injection or a.k.a. Wet injection (keeps the charge temps low and makes more power, used when you have a Top mount intercooler and you want to upgrade your turbo and not use a Front mount intercooler. this can also be used with the stock turbo and with a front mount intercooler) Transmission cooler (for automatic transmission applications, keeps the tranny from boiling the fluid) Upgraded automatic transmission TCU (transmission control unit)
With this set up you will making a TON of power if tuned right. If you have a clutch, upgrade it. Automatic transmissions can be upgraded too. Some members have swapped in STi Transmissions. you're looking at minumum of $4000 if you do all the installs and tuning yourself. If your not a gear head... expect to spend $5500 plus.

BDII 08-13-2007 08:22 AM

Part # 11
As we all know, there are many tire companies out there.
and finding the right set of tires at the right price can be difficult.
Allthough I can't tell you exactly how much tires will cost you, I can steer you in the right direction.

When you buy your 2005+ Legacy GT you get a set of Potenza RE92's
The majority of the subaru community will say that these are the worst tires SOA could have chosen for this car.

Before you go out and buy there are several things you need to consider.
1. What are my driving habits?
2. What type of weather will I be driving in?
3. What is my Budget (important)
4. Will I be racing?
5. Most important SAFETY!!

There are several types of tires.
Fro example: SUMMER
Summer Passenger Tires
1.Extreme Performance Summer (may not be good in wet or snowy conditions)
2.Max Performance Summer (may not be good in wet or snowy conditions)
3.Ultra High Performance Summer (may not be good in wet or snowy conditions)
4.High Performance Summer (may not be good in wet or snowy conditions)
5.Grand Touring Summer (May be ok for some wet conditions)
6.Track & Competition DOT (May NOT BE STREET LEGAL!!!)
All-Season Passenger Tires
1.Ultra High Performance All-Season (If you prefer all seasons, these are your best bet)
2.High Performance All-Season
3.Performance All-Season
4.Grand Touring All-Season
5.Standard Touring All-Season
6.Passenger All-Season
7.Winter (should be rated at "H" for speed NAD NOOOO HIGHER!)

The Tires that are on a new Legacy are 215/45/ZR17.
The "Z" is the rating of the tire.
For example:

P - 93 MPH
Q - 99 MPH
S - 112 MPH
T - 118 MPH
U - 124 MPH
H - 130 MPH
V - 149 MPH
Z - 149+ MPH (our tires)
W - 168 MPH
Y - 186 MPH
So as you can see our stock tires are rated for 149MPH +

With our car I would highly recommend sticking with the "Z" rated tires.

Different tires will have a different "stickyness" to them. It all really depends on the type of driving you plan on doing.
For example:
if you love the twisties, you want a tire with alot of stick, on the other hand, if you love to drag race, you may want a softer tire.

Once you decide what type of tires you want, you have to decide what brand.

Here are a few brands that carry Tires for our car.
Avon, BFGoodridge, Bridgestone, Continental, Dunlop, Firestone, Fuzion, General, Goodyear,
Hankkok, Hoosier, Kumho, Michelin, Pirelli, Sumitomo, Uniroyal and Yokohama.

BDII 08-13-2007 08:30 AM

Part #12
This part is written by Xenonk, and is a full discussion of this topic can found here:


Originally Posted by Xenonk
I finally compiled the most completed info I can come up with for wheel and tire fitment questions that everyone has. I mapped this entire post out so that you can pick a rim size you want and the rest will follow, including tire size.. I worked out this post so that you guys can decide on a tire size and it will point to you of what rim specs you need to fit onto the car.. as for brands and types of wheels and tires, well, that's a totally different thread on its own.

-GT's bolt pattern is 5x100mm, NOT 5x114.3. Only the 2005+ Impreza WRX STi is currently running 5x114.3mm. Stock GT wheel is 17"x7" +55mm (still need full verification if it's different from model years), but it's been confirmed for 05' rims on post #1522

-OBXT bolt pattern is 5x100mm with +48mm offset (weighing around 20.5 lbs per rim). OBXT wheel is 17"x7".

-2.5i and 3.0R models will need confirmation on stock rim sizes.

-Center bore must have to be 56mm or larger (if the bore is larger than 56mm, use hub centric rings to fit properly to your wheel's center bore, but not always necessary if you have wheels with conical lugnut seating, the wheel will eventually center itself, but that's your call of how you want to go about that).

-SpecB, OBXT, and 3.0Rs can use shorter tire sizes from the GT. But be sure to check and compare the load capacity of the tires. Try to use the same tire load capacities if you can within +/- 100 lbs. You can certainly always go over, but not under (as this requires for you to run higher tire pressures and this could cause more of an issue for tire wear).

-Lug nuts threading are 12mmx1.25mm. Open or Closed End lugs will depend on the mounting thickness of your rim, usually, closed ends (like the stock ones) are fine.

-Here we go, here are your choices for rim widths (regardless of it being 17", 18", 19" or 20" rims):

{offset in BOLD are the closest possible offset to OEM's scrub radius, you'll notice that once you go past 8" wide rims, you will run out of room on the inboard side to put/stuff any more of the wheel/tire to maintain the OEM scrub radius.. 8" and up will increase positive scrub radius}

6.5" (+34mm to +60mm offset, +55) *for 2.5i only
7.0" (+37mm to +57mm offset, +55)
7.5" (+40mm to +54mm offset, +55)
8.0" (+43mm to +51mm offset, +53)
8.5" (+45mm to +48mm offset, +45) *will need to roll the fenders if tires are wider than 255
9.0" (+43mm to +45mm offset, +43) *will need to roll the fenders if tires are wider than 255
9.5" (+38mm to +40mm offset, +38) *will need to roll the fenders if tires are wider than 255

and it also depends on what kind and size of tire you want to run as well (and that can get messy). But to be on the safe side, here is the tire widths you can put on each rim:

195mm = 6.5", 7" and 7.5"
205mm = 6.5", 7" and 7.5"
215mm = 6.5", 7", 7.5" and 8"
225mm = 7", 7.5", and 8"
235mm = 8", 8.5", and 9"
245mm = 8", 8.5", and 9"
255mm = 8.5", 9", and 9.5"
265mm = 8.5", 9", and 9.5"
275mm = 9" and 9.5"
285mm = 9" and 9.5"

Once you decide on the rim size, the tire width you want to run, here are your final tire choices. Note that not all tires are built the same way, so sometimes you'll find two different tire models with the same size (225/45/17), but one can fit on a 7" rim, while the other one will need a 7.5". You'll have to look around the manufacturers' specs on sectional width of the tire.. normally you want your rim width be no more than 1.5" less than the tire's sectional width. For example, if you have a 8" wide rim, your tire's sectional width shouldn't be more than 9.5" or you'll have to deal with the flex on the tire sidewalls. Most performance driving set ups are 1" difference (ie. a 8" wide rim with 9" wide tire). Below I listed for you by rim diameter of which I recommend running with some notes on each tire with notes to go along with them as well:

16 in. rims (for 2.5i, 2005-on) only:

195/60/16 (great for snow rally or snow use)
205/55/16 (OEM sizing which is also good for some non-tarmac surfaces)
215/55/16 (oversized for the rim protection, but very sloppy sidewall handling)
215/50/16 (wider footprint used for more daily driving without harsh gas consumption)
225/50/16 (great for autocrossing, still usable for daily driving all year round)

17 in. rims (for GTs 2005-on):

205/40/17 (only for SUPER FAST acceleration and torque; for autocrossing only, do not use for daily driving)
205/45/17 (only for FAST acceleration and torque; for autocrossing only , do not use for daily driving)
205/50/17 (good for snow rally)
215/45/17 (stock)
225/45/17 (good autocross performance tire size for gearing, more mph per gear)
235/40/17 (good autocross performance tire size for torque, more acceleration)
235/45/17 (tallest tire you could use under the GT due to possible suspension clearance issues, best used with an 8" wide wheel)
245/40/17 (good autocross performance tire size for traction, will need to have a flatter alignment to make use of the grip)
255/40/17 (maximum grip, good for track days, will need a 9" rim to make use of the contact patch and a good alignment as well).

18 in. rims (for GT 2005-on):

215/35/18 (only good for autocrossing use, do not use for daily driving)
225/35/18 (only good for autocrossing use, do not use for daily driving)
215/40/18 (uncommon tire size, close to OEM overall tire diameter, good for daily driving)
225/40/18 (typical sizing, most popular size, GREAT for daily driving)
235/40/18 (very large, but great for pot-hole city driving, may need fender rolling)
235/35/18 (rare size, but closest to OE tire sizing to keep the spedometer reading correctly)
245/35/18 (common autocross, performance size, very good for daily driving)
255/35/18 (very good daily driving size, even better on the track)
265/35/18 (very good daily driving use, but the car wont be able to use all 265mm of tread for the track)
275/30/18 (tallest tire you can mount without fender clearing issues on a 2" lowered car if you get the right offset)
285/30/18 (aka, the "STREETS OF DREAM" setup... the widest you can go.. this is the next tire size I am going for and a rim to match it)

18 in. rims (for Spec B.2006-on, 3.0Rs 2008-on):

225/40/18 (common tire to use and gives a better acceleration since it's 0.5" shorter)
235/40/18 (rare size to find, but near stock height for proper gearing)
245/40/18 (popular tire size for the larger cars)

19 in. rims (for GT 2005-on):

225/35/19 (common typical sizing for 19" for our cars)
235/35/19 (tallest tire you can mount without fender clearing issues on a 2" lowered car if you get the right offset)
245/30/19 (rare size, but also tallest tire you can mount without fender clearing issues on a 2" lowered car)

BDII 08-13-2007 08:39 AM

Part #13
This part was originally written by Unclemat. you can find a full discussion of this topin here:

JDM OEM suspension FAQ (updated 12/12/11)

What is OEM suspension on JDM BP/BL Legacy?

JDM Legacy GT, GT SpecB, 3.0R SpecB use Bilstein struts and shocks. The fronts are inverted monotube struts. Other trims use lesser KYB shocks, similar to what USDM 2.5i and GT have. The difference in handling is amazing; the car on Bilsteins drives infinitely better than stock. In fact the car is more comfortable, too - while impact hitting a road imperfection can be felt more, the dampening so much better and quick so it goes away instantly, while stock will float and bounce much longer.

What is the difference between JDM GT Bilsteins and JDM SpecB Bilsteins?

JDM GT Bilsteins try to balance ride comfort and performance. They are much sportier and provide far more controlled ride than stock USDM GT dampeners (KYB). JDM SpecB Bilsteins are geared more towards performance at some sacrifice in ride comfort.

What the heck are these confusing revisions?

Revision is actually a misnomer. The lettered "revisions" refer to model years in JDM. A is MY2004, B is MY2005, C is MY2006 and so on. Indeed, the suspension actually was revised several times that resulted in differences in dampening and springs. Generally each subsequent revision got softer due to the complaints that these cars ride too stiff.

Note, there was no "original revision" or "revisionless" Bilsteins. Some posts, including the "Part numbers" thread in turbo section contain incorrect information.


Original GT setup. Great balance of performance and ride comfort. I currently use this setup as my winter suspension. It is firmer, but not too firm. Closer to JDM SpecB Rev.B than to JDM GT Rev.C (had both setups earleir). Everyone who has this setup seems to praise it, especially with Pinks.

Part numbers: 20310AG060 (front right), 20310AG070 (front left), 20365AG040 (rear)


This one is bit of a mystery. Does not really feel softer than JDM GT Rev.A. Interestingly rear shocks are the same as on JDM SpecB Rev.B, front struts are different. I just drove a car with these on Pinks and indeed the setup seemed more complaint than JDM SpecB Rev.B, but the difference is not big. Note, there is an old post quoting someone from Bilstein Japan saying this setup is for SpecB and tuned for 18 inch wheels - that is incorrect, I verified this against JDM parts database.

Part numbers: 20310AG140 (front right), 20310AG150 (front left), 20365AG120 (rear)


This is the current JDM GT and JDM 3.0R setup, present on Rev.D cars as well. Also used on 2006-2007 USDM SpecB (not sure about 2008 yet). These are noticeably softer than any other revisions. Give nice and controlled and oscillation free ride, but they are more on the comfort than performance side. There were complaints that these do not handle stiffer springs (Pinks) very well and feel bit underdampened. I can believe this as in certain high speed situations these did not feel as secure as other revisions.

Part numbers: 20310AG400 (front right), 20310AG410 (front left), 20365AG260 (rear)

JDM SpecB Rev.A

The original SpecB setup, stiffest of the bunch. I rode in a car with supposedly this revision (not 100% sure, not confirmed by part numbers) - it felt marginally stiffer than SpecB Rev.B. Opinions about this setup range from "great ride" to "too stiff for daily driver". I guess this is very subjective plus it depends on the road conditions, wheel size, tires, etc.

Part numbers: 20310AG100 (front right), 20310AG110 (front left), 20365AG050 (rear)

JDM SpecB Rev.B

Supposedly softer than Rev.A. I had it on my car with Pinks for few months and liked it very much. Excellent performance, yet still great ride. However, can be too harsh on really bad roads if paired with stiff tires like RE070.

Part numbers: 20310AG180 (front right), 20310AG190 (front left), 20365AG120 (rear)

JDM SpecB Rev.C

This is the current JDM 2.0 SpecB and JDM 3.0R SpecB, present on Rev.D cars. Bit less aggressive than Rev.B, yet still excellent handling and great ride. This is my favorite Bilstein setup so far for a street car - I think they really got this one "perfect".

Part numbers: 20310AG420 (front right), 20310AG430 (front left), 20365AG270 (rear)

Are Bilsteins the same for sedan and wagon?

Yes there are no differences in struts/shocks between sedan and wagon.

Are springs the same for sedan and wagon?

No, rear springs on wagons are a little bit longer to compensate for extra weight. Note the extra weight is minimal (60 lbs. for non-limited wagon vs. non-limited sedan).

Do Bilsteins work on 2.5i as well?

Yes. Since all suspension parts except front sway bars are fully compatible between both GT and 2.5i.

How USDM SpecB Bilsteins compare to JDM Bilsteins?

USDM SpecB Bilsteins are identical to JDM GT Rev.C Bilsteins, see above.

What are the JDM tophats?

JDM cars use different front top hats (mounts). The USDM top hats cannot be used on JDM OEM Bilsteins (or other struts like Ohlins, Tokicos, Bilsteis HDs) - the USDM top hat has taller bearing and the threaded portion of the strut rod is too short and will not allow for safe installation. Pictures that compare JDM and USDM top hats are located here.

By the way, JDM top hats are beefier, the bearing in them is huge compared to USDM one. Thet are much stiffer, help steering response and contribute and to the "road feel" - there is much less play in the top hat. USDM top hat is very rubbery and clearly designed for comfy ride.

The JDM and USDM names are customary - JDM top hats refer to top hats used on Bilsteins, including Bilsteins on USDM Legacy SpecB. USDM top hats are used on some JDM cars, not sure which but are used on some Outbacks. Note, interestingly AusDM 2.0i or 2.5i cars seem to use JDM top hats on KYB struts.

Do JDM tophats raise the front of the car?

I compared these top hats side by side and they seem to locate bottom of the bearing at the same height with respect to the chassis, so the top hat should not affect ride height. This is moot question since the top hats are not interchangeable, with the exception of KW Variant 2 coilovers.

I installed Bilsteins and my rear sits lower wrt front than I would like! Why?

There might be few things which contribute to this. First, our cars from the factory seem to have "saggy butts" - the rear wheel gap is smaller than front, this gets accentuated when the car is lowered. Second reason might be use of AT specific front springs on MT car.

It can be addressed with "saggy butt shims" that go between the rear shock top hat and the chassis. See this thread. They can be bought here.

You should use longer top hat studs with them. Perfect replacemnt is a Geo metro wheel stud, Dorman part #5090B. Available from rockauto or AutoZone. Fits well up to 3/8" thick shim (my recommended thinkness for JDM suspension setups, that's what I run with my JDM GT Rev.A wagons setup).

Other alternative is to double up the top rear spring seat.

Finally there are springs that by design drop front more than rear - like Swift, Wangan, Prova, or TN Guts. Most are rare JDM only items unfortunately.

Can I use JDM springs on USDM stock dampeners?

Yes. However they will drop the car more in front compared to JDM suspension. The reason is that lower spring perch on the front struts is actually located lower compared to Bilsteins. Ascetically this is good as it results in more even stance, however I do not believe USDM struts/shocks can handle stiffer lowering springs.

Can I use USDM stock springs on Bilsteins?

No. USDM stock springs are longer and while probably you could cram them on Bilstein, the car won't ride or look good. Other USDM specific springs like USDM-specific Ions on Cobbs might fit but again would be seriously mismatched.

I want to install Bilsteins, what parts do I need?

For the front you need JDM top hats, corresponding dust caps (seals) and front spring upper perch/seats. Some people used stock USDM GT front perch/seat, but since they look bit different and have different part number I recommend using the Bilstein specific one. Also, the dust boots are different in front. For the rear you can use the stock top hat and spring seat.

Of course you also need some sort of JDM GT/SpecB specific springs like STI Pinks, Swifts, R-SR, Wangans, Teins or Provas, etc.

Part numbers (available from US dealers):

20320AG000 - front top hat (strut mount), 2 needed -
20326AG000 - front top hat dust cap (dust seal), 2 needed
20323AG000 - front spring seat/perch, 2 needed.
20322AG010 - front dust boots, 2 needed.

Any tips on the install?

Not really. Make sure to properly position front seats/perches - the drain holes need to be oriented outside. Do not use stock dome washer/spacer between spring seat and top hat. Other than that universal precautions apply, do not over torque stuff, top hats bolts and piston rod can be easily broken.

Links to useful install threads: here and here.

Where to get OEM Bilsteins?

JDM GT Rev.C / USDM SpecB Bilsteins can be bought from any US dealer. JDM only revisions need to be imported from Japan.

What about aftermarket Bilstein HDs?

Bit of a mystery here. They look pretty much the same as OEM Bilsteins and also share monotube inverted construction. Originally a Bilstein dealer claimed they have less travel than OEMs in front (108mm vs. 130mm) making them not well suited for lowering springs. Recent findings are that they have the same travel as OEM Bilsteins, plus few members are using them successfully with Pinks so it seems these concerns are unfounded.

They supposedly ride bit stiffer then OEM USDM Bilsteins. Dealers claim 20% stiffer. Can't say, never rode in a car equipped with them.

The bigger mystery is the difference in price - OEM Bilsteins cost more than $1200 new from the dealer (in the US or Japan), while HDs seem to cost around $500. I don't know where the difference comes from. OEM markup?

What are Pinks?

Pinks are lowering springs designed and sold by STI branch of Subaru. Compared to stock JDM cars lower the car all around 15mm. Pinks are not designed for stock struts and result in crappy ride. If mated to stokers they lower more like 25mm.

Which Pinks should I get?

There are few variants of spring: for MT, AT, sedan, wagon, SpecB, 3.0R. They are different to account for difference in weight between these cars (not damping rates or ride height, if it would be so SpecB application would not share springs with anything else).

Due to the "saggy butt" being pronounced with Pinks, I recommend getting regular GT MT wagon Pinks for all applications. They will keep the rear of the car little higher lessening the saggy butt effect, and possibly drop the front a hair more, further evening the wheel gap.

Note, JDM SpecB has 5mm higher ground clearance than JDM GT, which given 12.5mm longer radius of tire means the stock suspension must be lowered ~7.5mm vs normal GT suspension. It does not seem to be true for Pinks. A car with SpecB wheel setup will ride higher.

In the table below B4 indicates sedan, TW indicates wagon. The 4th column has part #s of the front springs, the 5th of the rear springs.


BDII 08-13-2007 08:47 AM

Part #14

This was originally written by Xenonk. The complete thread and discussion can be found here:

Originally Posted by Xenonk
I decided to put this FAQ together to help people decide how about going upgrading brakes as well as helping people fimilar how to buy brakes to fit for their needs. Not everyone need 16" rotors front and rear and still complain about how they can't stop better than stock.

Q: How does one stop the fastest/shortest?
A: It really starts with the tires. Brakes are one thing, but the main concern is about how the tires grip the road to stop.

Q: Tires? What? I thought we were talking about brakes?
A: Tires are the only thing that keeps the car in contact with the road, you are relying on 4 little patches of rubber to keep a 3000+ lbs car on the road. So yes, tires do make a difference. For example, if both cars had super awesome brakes, but one car had rubber soft slick tires while the other car had just bare rims, which one would stop faster? It's obvious that the tire will get into better grip (friction) with the road than the bare rim. It's hard for bare metal to dig into the concrete. If you dont believe me on the matter that tires dont make a difference, ask race car drivers why they have to use racing slicks.

Q: Ok, so tires are upgraded, now what?
A: Hopefully, the tires you chose helps you narrow down what kind of brakes you should look into. I have broken down the three common tires you will find and 3 kinds of brake upgrades you can get along with the car.

Tire A, Daily driving: This is the kind of tire that would be on your car most of the year and winter driving is possible since it could very well be an all-season tire.

Tire B, Spirited driving, Autocrossing for Street Touring: This is the kind of tire that is more dedicated for street use in the summer or possibly an autocross street touring race setup. The tire is fairly soft and the potential for harder braking is possible (also less chance for the ABS to come on).

Tire C, Race and Race-practice driving: This is where your tire is barely DOT-approved and street legal, the tires barely last more than 5,000 to 10,000 miles conservatively for street driving or only 100 miles for race use. These types of tires are sticky.

Brake Upgrade A, conservative driving: This is the setup you are looking for that you expect to keep on your car for a while unless the brake pads run low. The key things to upgrade are better brake fluid, better brake pads. The driving habit is mild and delicate braking, long drags, and low speed stops (think slow daily driving). Look for a brake pad that has a high coeffiecent of friction (for that quick bite) and low operating temperature (so that winter or cold brakes will still work).

Brake Upgrade B, spirited driving: This setup is something that might need some higher performance pads, better rotors to help prevent brake failure or poor performance. Things to look for are stainless steel brake lines, better brake fluid, slotted/cross-drilled rotors, larger or higher operating temperature brake pads.

Brake Upgrade C, hard driving: This setup is to help you get the most out of your brakes without worrying about overheating/overworking your brakes. This setup is usually for racing use only since the brakes (and tires) need to warm up first before they work properly. Things to look for are racing brake fluid, bigger rotors with slots or crossing/drilling, racing brake pads, stainless steel lines, bigger calipers that can handle larger brake pads. All these parts help you keep the brakes work in the higher braking temperature ranges. Overheated brakes are just as bad as having no brakes at all.

Q: Are slotted and cross-drilled rotors needed?
A: Slots are useful to a point when you are looking for a way to prevent glazing of the brake pads. Glazing of the pads happen when you overheat the brake pads (either too hard on the brakes and not big enough of a rotor to dissapate the heat fast enough thus makes the pad material harden and it starts to lose its frictional properties. Cross Drilled really has no real use now as brake technology has advanced.. it does have an appealing look to them, but as for today, you dont need them as they serve next to nil on purpose. Specifically on the Legacy (GT or 2.5i) the brakes are fairly well using just the stock rotors. The weight of the rotors (mass) is pretty heavy.. more mass also helps in heat capacity, so the more mass you have for the rotors, the more repeative braking that you can do. Big Brake Kits do benefit from this very reason, but a few other brake tests has shown that the thickness of the plates and the overall thickness of the rotor proved to be more of a useful design than just the overall diameter of the rotor [Motor Trend did the study about 2 to 3 years ago I believe]. Blank rotors are fine and does the job, especially for a daily driver that doesnt need that heat capacity.

Q: So what kind of brake pads out there?
A: There are a lot of brake pads out there, things to take consider are the three main attributes that usually 2 attributes are offered in a braking pad:

-Dusting/Noise (how much they make your bling rims dirty)

-Temperature (the range of temperature of which the pad works)

-Friction (how well the pad has the initial bite and feel to the rotor)

It's very hard to find a brake pad that can be awesome in all 3 attributes. Street pads will have great low noise/dusting, good friction bite, and typical low temperature range. Performance pads will have good friction, good temperature range, and typical medium dusting. Race Pads have great temperature range, good friction, and lousy dusting (very dirty).

Q: What temperature is right for me?
A: If you are looking for daily driving and expect to drive through a winter season, look for a brake pad that can operate in low or freezing temperatures. If you are looking for autocross and very light track days, look for above freezing to 800 F temperature ranges. Very rare that a daily driven or street driven car hit temperatures of 1000 F unless you are that crazy to hold the brakes down at near full force while driving at 40 mph for 15 mins. Racing brake pads start near the 150F to 1500F+ range (so somehow the driver needs to warm up the brakes before actually using them).

Q: How do I pick a good brake fluid?
A: The thing is to look for the HIGHEST WET BOILING POINT (as brake fluids do soak up moisture in the air and causing the fluid to fail and feel mushy). Change your brake fluid at least once a year or every 15,000 miles for the best pedal feel. ATE Super Blue fluid is probably the best "bang for the buck" at $15/bottle for a full flush. Always use a fresh bottle, dont use a bottle that has been open for more than a month as it has probably soaked up dirt and other moisture in the air that would make the fluid ineffective.

Q: What about stainless steel lines?
A: Usually designed for better pedal feel for less pedal brake travel and less flex in the lines. It's an upgrade that is really up to the owner as stock lines offer enough PSI of fluid for the caliper to clamp with enough force. Unless you are upgrading your master cylinder and larger calipers, upgraded stainless steel brake lines with higher PSI rating is not neccessary

Q: What about big brake kits?
A: Big brake kits are used to make use of the tires' grip potential and dissapate heat faster. It's not neccessary for a street car to run with larger brakes unless you run the Autobahn or something and have the tires run them. Also, check the brake pads that the brake kits come with. There's no sense in getting bigger brakes (more weight) if the brake pads are lousy "performance" pads that can overheat and glaze.

If there are any other questions, I'll will answer them on a case-by-case basis from here on out.

BDII 08-13-2007 08:50 AM

Part #15

1. Up Pipe (UP) goes from the exhaust manifold to the hot side of turbo. The 2005/2006 legacys have catalytic converters in their up pipes. These need to be removed to go Stg 2.

After market
2. Down pipe (DP). The down pipe goes from the turbo/manifold to the cat back section of the exhaust. All legacy's have catalytic converters in their down pipes. There are 2 sections of the down pipe. In the picture below you see the short fat part? that is the catalytic converter section, it attaches to the turbo. This whole pipe, or just the short fat section can be replaced. The short fat section is replaced by what is call a "shorty down pipe"(see pic below). The long section connects to the Cat back section of the exhaust. The yellow wire that is attached to it is the EGT (exhaust gas temp) sensor. This is removed when you go stage 2.

This was originally written by jsalicru. The complete thread and discussion can be found here:

Originally Posted by jsalicru
This is for all the DIY people out there... you will do a much higher quality job if you follow the specs below.

Downpipe-to-catback torque spec...........13.0 ft-lbs
Axle-back torque spec ..........................35.4 ft-lbs
Exhaust bracket torque spec ..................26.0 ft-lbs
Transmission bracket torque spec ............26.0 ft-lbs
Downpipe-to-midpipe torque spec ............26.0 ft-lbs
Downpipe-to-turbo torque spec .............. 26.0 ft-lbs
Uppipe-to-turbo torque spec ...................26.0 ft-lbs
Turbo bracket @ up-pipe torque spec .......26.0 ft-lbs
Turbo bracket-to-block torque spec .........24.6 ft-lbs (highly unlikely you will need this one.)
Head-to-manifold torque spec .................29.8 ft-lbs
Manifold-to-crossover pipe torque spec .....26.0 ft-lbs
Manifold-to-uppipe torque spec ...............26.0 ft-lbs
Manifold heatshield torque spec ...............9.6 ft-lbs
Front 02 sensor torque spec ...................22.1 ft-lbs
Rear 02 sensor torque spec ....................15.2 ft-lbs
Intercooler-to-turbo flange torque spec ....11.6 ft-lbs
Intercooler brackets torque spec .............11.6 ft-lbs
By-pass valve-to-intercooler torque spec .. 4.8 ft-lbs

In addition, here are the part numbers for all the exhaust gaskets too.

Head to Exhaust Manifold Gaskets - 2 are required to replace in case you install a header.

Driver's Exhaust Manifold to Crossover Pipe gasket

Crossover Pipe to Pass Exhaust Manifold Gasket

Exhaust Manifold to Uppipe Gasket

Uppipe to turbo Gasket

Turbo to Downpipe Gasket

Downpipe to Midpipe

Flex Joint Gasket (the donut)

If you guys want, I might also include a how-to on UP/DP installation, but frankly, those are a dime a dozen on WRX sites..

More information

Installing Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor

Tools Needed:
  • 14mm wrench (possibly 2)
  • 14mm socket
  • 12mm socket
  • 1/8" NPT tap
  • Various drill bits (11/32, small drill bit for pilot hole, big drill bit for possible hole on heatshield)
  • Dremel (optional - for heatshield)
  • Panel popper or flathead screw driver
  • PB Blaster or equivalent penetrating lubricant
  1. The routing of the harness is entirely up to the end user.
  2. A good place to install the sensor is in the “button” of the driver’s side exhaust manifold.
  3. During more recent testing, it has been shown that the driver’s side of the engine runs higher EGTs than the passenger’s side.
  4. Carefully lift the front of the car and secure using jack-stands.
  5. 5. Remove belly pan. There are 3 12-mm bolts in the front and 1 in the rear. There are also 2 plastic tabs on each side of the pan, for a total of 4. There are tab removers available, but a flat head screwdriver will work if one is not available.
  6. Remove driver’s side exhaust manifold heat shield. This is secured by 3 12-mm bolts.
  7. Remove the 2 14-mm bolts in that hold the manifold to the crossover pipe. Hold on to that gasket. You will need at least one open-end wrench for this, but two are useful. Ratchet type open-end wrenches are the best.
  8. Remove the 3 14-mm nuts that hold the manifold in place.
  9. Locate the little button in between the No. 2 and No.4 exhaust pipe.
  10. Drill a pilot hole in the middle of the “button”.
  11. Drill a hole using a 11/32” drill bit. Make sure to use some type of lubricant to cool and help out the bit. Also, regulate the speed so that you can cut into the metal more efficiently. Faster really is not better here.
  12. Start to tap your thread using the 1/8” NPT tap. Get some help for this as it requires some incredible amount of force. It is typically not recommended to back out of the thread very often when using a NPT tap. And when you think you have gone far enough and hard enough, back it out, clean the threads, and go again a little harder until it REALLY is impossible.
  13. Clean the threads and the interior of the manifold to remove metal shavings.
  14. Install the fitting. Use discretion when torquing it down.
  15. If you plan on re-using the heat shield, do not install the sensor just yet.
  16. Mark the heat shield in the appropriate location and use either a HUGE bit (bigger than 3/8”) or use a dremel to obtain the desired size.
  17. Install the manifold back to the engine and crossover pipe. Do not forget the gasket!
  18. Install heat shield.
  19. Install sensor. Do not over-tighten.
  20. Plug sensor harness.
  21. When starting the car, you might experience some smoke due to the lubricant used during the drilling process. Other than that, check for leaks.

if you are unsure what exhaust manufacturer to go with, please see the reviews section here:

BDII 08-13-2007 08:55 AM

Part #16

Intakes are a touchy subject amongst Legacy owners. Some tuners have been able to make more power with one and some haven't. It really depends on your modifications. If you plan on going big... you will need one.

The stock legacy intake is very effeicent and does not need to be replaced until you are well into stg2. You can however buy "panel Filters" which are basically the air purifier filters for your stock intake. Please contact one of our vendors for high flow panel filters.

After market intakes...

what do they do?
well in theory, and on most cars, they allow the engine breath more freely. Think this... put a straw in your mouth and try to breathe through it. That is what a stock intake on most cars is like. Now take a 3 inch piece of Garden hose and breathe through that. Much better right that is what an intake is like! same prinicple!

There are two types of Intakes:
1. Short Ram- is inside the engine bay
2. Cold air- Is tucked into the fender well

Obviously... the cold air intake will take in colder air... but the tube is longer so it will not get as much air as the Short Ram.
Please consult one our trusted vendors if you wish to purchase an Intake, or for reviews click here:

Part #17
Trouble codes/check engine light codes

If you have an 04 or older, take your car to a dealer of service station.
If you have an 05, use a COBB access port or go to a dealer or service station.
if you have an 06 or newer, follow these instructions:



1. Turn ignition off
2. turn ignition to on (not start)
3. turn the switch on top of the steering wheel on. (it has a P on it)
4. push the little knob on the dash (next to your speedometer) that resets your mileage counter 4 times
5. turn the switch on the steering wheel from step 3 off
6. push the little knob (next to your speedometer) 4 times
7. turn the switch on top of the steering wheel on. (it has a P on it)
8. push the little knob on the dash (next to your speedometer) that resets your mileage counter 4 times

toggle through the the codes by pressing the trip meter.

Don't forget to turn the parking light switch off...

This part was originally written by Scans007. The complete thread and discussion can be found here:

The COBB access port has a function that allows you to check and reset check engine codes.


Originally Posted by scans007
This is a place only for CEL's (Check Engine Lights),Trouble Codes, Fault Codes and such just for quick a reference.

If you have gotten a CEL that isn't on this list, and know what its number and description is, please PM me with it so I can update the list.

MOST COMMONLY FOUNDP0011 - Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced (Bank 1)
P0012 - Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced (Bank 2)
P0030 - Front O2 Sensor Heater Control Circuit
P0031 - Front O2 Sensor Heater Control Circuit Low
P0032 - Front O2 Sensor Heater Control Circuit High
P0037 - Rear O2 Sensor Heater Control Circuit Low
P0038 - Rear O2 Sensor Heater Control Circuit High
P0068 - MAP/Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance
P0101 - Mass Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance
P0102 - Mass Air Flow Circuit Low Input
P0103 - Mass Air Flow Circuit High Input
P0107 - MAP/Barometric Pressure Circuit Low Input
P0108 - MAP/Barometric Pressure Circuit High Input
P0111 - Intake Air Temperature Circuit Range/Performance
P0112 - Intake Air Temperature Circuit Low Input
P0113 - Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input
P0117 - Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low Input
P0118 - Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input
P0121 - Throttle Position Sensor Switch “A” Circuit Range/Performance
P0122 - Throttle Position Sensor Switch “A” Circuit Low Input
P0123 - Throttle Position Sensor Switch “A” Circuit High Input
P0125 - Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control
P0128 - Coolant Thermostat
P0129 - Atmospheric Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0131 - Front O2 Sensor Low Voltage
P0132 - Front O2 Sensor High Voltage
P0133 - Front O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response
P0134 - Front O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected
P0137 - Rear O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
P0138 - Rear O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage
P0139 - Rear O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response
P0171 - System too Lean
P0172 - System too Rich
P0181 - Fuel Temperature Sensor “A” Circuit Range/Performance
P0182 - Fuel Temperature Sensor “A” Circuit Low Input
P0183 - Fuel Temperature Sensor “A” Circuit High Input
P0230 - Fuel Pump Primary Circuit
P0222 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor Switch B circuit low input
P0223 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor Switch B circuit high input
P0230 - Fuel Pump Primary Circuit
P0244 - Turbo Wastegate Selenoid “A” Range/Performance
P0245 - Turbo Wastegate Selenoid “A” Low
P0246 - Turbo Wastegate Selenoid “A” High
P0301 - Cylinder 1 misfire detected
P0302 - Cylinder 2 misfire detected
P0303 - Cylinder 3 misfire detected
P0304 - Cylinder 4 misfire detected
P0327 - Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Low Input
P0328 - Knock Sensor 1 Circuit High Input
P0335 - Crankshaft Position Sensor “A” Circuit
P0336 - Crankshaft Position Sensor “A” Circuit Range/Performance
P0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor “A” Circuit (Bank 1)
P0345 - Camshaft Position Sensor “A” Circuit (Bank 2)
P0459 - Evap. Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit High
P0461 - Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0462 - Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0463 - Fuel Level Sensor Circuit High Input
P0464 - Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0483 - Cooling Fan Rationality Check
P0502 - Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0503 - Vehicle Speed Sensor Intermittent/Erratic/High
P0604 - Internal Control Module Random Access Memory Error
P0605 - Internal Control Module Read Only Memory Error
P0607 - Control Module Performance
P0638 - Throttle Actuator Control Range/Performance
P1110 - Atmospheric Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Low Input)
P1111 - Atmospheric Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction (High Input)
P1152 - Front O2 Sensor Circuit Range/Performance (Low)
P1153 - Front O2 Sensor Circuit Range/Performance (High)
P1160 - Return Spring Failure
P1400 - Fuel Tank Pressure Control Solenoid Valve Circuit Low
P1420 - Fuel Tank Pressure Control Solenoid Valve Circuit High
P1443 - Vent Control Solenoid Valve Function Problem
P1446 - Fuel Tank Sensor Control Valve Circuit Low
P1447 - Fuel Tank Sensor Control Valve Circuit High
P1448 - Fuel Tank Sensor Control Valve Range/Performance
P1491 - Positive Crankcase Ventilation (Blow-by) Function Problem
P1518 - Starter Switch Circuit Low Input
P1560 - Back-Up Voltage Circuit Malfunction
P1572 - IMM Circuit Failure, Except Antenna Circuit
P2088 - OCV Solenoid Valve Signal A Circuit Open (Bank 1)
P2089 - OCV Solenoid Valve Signal A Circuit Short (Bank 1)
P2092 - OCV Solenoid Valve Signal A Circuit Open (Bank 2)
P2093 - OCV Solenoid Valve SIgnal A Circuit Short (Bank 2)
P2096 - Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Lean Bank 1
P2097 - Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Rich Bank 1
P2101 - Throttle Actuator Control Motor Circuit Range/Performance
P2102 - Throttle Actuator Control Motor Circuit Low
P2103 - Throttle Actuator Control Motor Circuit High

P0011 Intake Camshaft Position Timing - Over-Advanced (Bank 1)
P0021 Intake Camshaft Position Timing - Over-Advanced (Bank 2)
P0030 HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0031 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0032 HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0037 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0038 HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0068 MAP/MAF - Throttle Position Correlation P0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance
P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input
P0103 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit High Input
P0107 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Low Input
P0108 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit High Input
P0111 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Range/Performance
P0112 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Low Input
P0113 Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input
P0117 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low Input
P0118 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input
P0122 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch “A” Circuit Low Input
P0123 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch “A” Circuit High Input
P0125 Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control
P0126 Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Stable Operation
P0128 Coolant Thermostat (Coolant Temperature Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature)
P0131 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0132 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0133 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0134 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0137 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank Sensor 2)
P0138 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0139 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0171 System too Lean (Bank 1)
P0172 System too Rich (Bank 1)
P0181 Fuel Temperature Sensor “A” Circuit Range/Performance
P0182 Fuel Temperature Sensor “A” Circuit Low Input
P0183 Fuel Temperature Sensor “A” Circuit High Input
P0222 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch “B” Circuit Low Input
P0223 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "B" Circuit High Input
P0230 Fuel Pump Primary Circuit
P0244 Turbo/Super Charger Wastegate Solenoid “A” Range/Performance
P0245 Turbo/Super Charger Wastegate Solenoid “A” Low
P0246 Turbo/Super Charger Wastegate Solenoid “A” High
P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
P0327 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Low Input (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
P0328 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit High Input (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor “A” Circuit
P0336 Crankshaft Position Sensor “A” Circuit Range/Performance
P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor “A” Circuit (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
P0345 Camshaft Position Sensor “A” Circuit (Bank 2)
P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
P0442 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (small Leak)
P0447 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Open
P0448 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Shorted
P0451 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Range/Performance
P0452 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Low Input
P0453 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor High Input
P0456 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (Very Small Leak)
P0457 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (Fuel Cap Loose/Off)
P0458 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit Low
P0459 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit High
P0461 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0462 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0463 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit High Input
P0464 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0483 Cooling Fan Rationality Check
P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor
P0506 Idle Control System RPM Lower Than Expected
P0507 Idle Control System RPM Higher Than Expected
P0512 Starter Request Circuit
P0513 Incorrect Immobilizer Key
P0519 Idle Control System Malfunction (Fail-Safe)
P0545 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit Low-Bank 1
P0546 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit High-Bank 1
P0600 Serial Communication Link
P0604 Internal Control Module Random Access Memory (RAM) Error
P0605 Internal Control Module Read Only Memory (ROM) Error
P0607 Control Module Performance
P0638 Throttle Actuator Control Range/Performance (Bank 1)
P0691 Cooling Fan 1 Control Circuit Low
P0692 Cooling Fan 1 Control Circuit High
P0700 Transmission Control System (MIL Request)
P0851 Neutral Switch Input Circuit Low
P0852 Neutral Switch Input Circuit High
P1152 O2 Sensor Circuit Range/Performance (Low) (Bank1 Sensor1)
P1153 O2 Sensor Circuit Range/Performance (High) (Bank1 Sensor1)
P1160 Return Spring Failure
P1301 Misfire Detected (High Temperature Exhaust Gas)
P1312 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Malfunction
P1400 Fuel Tank Pressure Control Solenoid Valve Circuit Low
P1420 Fuel Tank Pressure Control Sol.Valve Circuit High
P1443 Vent Control Solenoid Valve Function Problem
P1446 Fuel Tank Sensor Control Valve Circuit Low
P1447 Fuel Tank Sensor Control Valve Circuit High
P1491 Positive Crankcase Ventilation (Blowby) Function Problem
P1518 Starter Switch Circuit Low Input
P1544 Exhaust Gas Temperature Too High
P1560 Back-Up Voltage Circuit Malfunction
P1570 Antenna
P1571 Reference Code Incompatibility
P1572 IMM Circuit Failure (Except AntennaCircuit)
P1574 Key Communication Failure
P1576 EGI Control Module EEPROM
P1577 IMM Control Module EEPROM
P1578 Meter Failure
P2004 Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open (Bank 1)
P2005 Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open (Bank 2)
P2006 Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Closed (Bank 1)
P2007 Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Closed (Bank 2)
P2008 Intake Manifold Runner Control Circuit/Open (Bank 1)

Continued in next post

BDII 08-13-2007 09:00 AM

Trouble codes continued


P2009 Intake Manifold Runner Control Circuit Low (Bank 1)
P2011 Intake Manifold Runner Control Circuit/Open (Bank 2)
P2012 Intake Manifold Runner Control Circuit Low (Bank 2)
P2016 Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Low (Bank 1)
P2017 Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit High (Bank 1)
P2021 Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Low (Bank 2)
P2022 Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit High (Bank 2)
P2088 OCV Solenoid Valve Signal A Circuit Open (Bank 1)
P2089 OCV Solenoid Valve Signal A Circuit Short (Bank 1)
P2092 OCV Solenoid Valve Signal A Circuit Open (Bank 2)
P2093 OCV Solenoid Valve Signal A Circuit Short (Bank 2)
P2096 Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Lean Bank 1
P2097 Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Rich Bank 1
P2101 Throttle Actuator Control Motor Circuit Range/Performance
P2102 Throttle Actuator Control Motor Circuit Low
P2103 Throttle Actuator Control Motor Circuit High
P2109 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor A Minimum Stop Performance
P2122 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch “D” Circuit Low Input
P2123 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch “D” Circuit High Input
P2127 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor /Switch “E” Circuit Low Input
P2128 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch “E” Circuit High Input
P2135 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch “A”/“B” Voltage Rationality
P2138 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch “D”/“E” Voltage Rationality
P2227 Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance
P2228 Barometric Pressure Circuit Low Input
P2229 Barometric Pressure Circuit High Input

Part #18
Intercoolers/coolant sprayers

If you have the turbo model Legacy you have an intercooler.

The intercooler is one the biggest obstacles in reaching the 300+ WHP range. Basically the intercooler cools the air that is forced into your engine by the turbo. It's a proven fact that when you mix cold air with gas you get better combustion. That is why an intercooler is so important.

You really don't need a front mount intercooler if you have a stock turbo. The stock top mount or an aftermarket top mount can handle it just fine.
Please contact on of our vendors for pricing.

Like on the STi, you can add one of these to your car. Basically what it does is spray cold water on teh intercooler to help cool the air that passes through it.
It can be manually controlled (button in the cockpit) or set to spray when it either reaches a certain temp or you have the throttle wide open.

Wet Injection/alcohol injection:
This is a very complicated subject.... as I mentioned before we all know that cold air mixed with gas combusts better then warm air. This is where the Alcohol injection comes in a.k.a wet injection. By spraying the proper mixture of gas, air and Methanol into the engine reducing the chance of detonation.

For more info on Wet Injection read here:
For pricing please contact on our vendors.

BDII 08-13-2007 02:08 PM

Topic #19
The COBB access port

This my friends is the first modification you should buy, it is also the most important.

The COBB access port is used to modify your cars ECU (computer). It has a wide range of maps (tunes/upgrades) for your car including:
1. Antitheft mode (immobilizes the ignition)
2. Economy mode (better gas mileage)
3. COBB stg 1 + 2 maps
4. Valet mode (set the rev limiter to 3000RPM so punk valets can't abuse your ride)
5. Empty slots to download maps from your tuner i.e.

See the above posts for more info on the cobb Access port.
Please contact one of our fine vendors for pricing and availability.

Part #20
Octane and Ratings

Since octane standards exists of different types I ran into the following table:

RON = Research Octane Test (Europe)
MON = Motor Octane Test
PON = Pump Octane Number (US)


RON          MON          PON
  90        83          86.6
  92        85          88.5
  95        87          91
  96        88          92
  98        90          94
  100        91.5        95.8
  105        95          100
  110        99          104.5


BDII 08-15-2007 12:26 PM

Part #21
Selling your used/new parts and cars.

First and foremost... if you are a vendor or want to sell a product that you produce, you need to click HERE. Advertising or spamming on this forum without vendor status is strickly prohibited.

If you are regular member and want to sell something that you have kicking around the garage or house please follow these instructions:

1. From your tool bar click "Forums"
2. From the first block, select "The Market Place"
3. Chose the proper sub forum (i.e. Member classifieds if your selling your Down Pipe)

Things to remember and rules!!

1. POST A PRICE!!!! Mods have the right to delete or close your thread if you do not post a price.
2. PICTURES!!!! if you don't post them.. people will ask. Save yourself the time and hassle and post them up. Also, make sure that they are pictures of the ACTUAL product... (not pictures stolen from ebay or google or another member)
take multiple picture, the more the better.
3. Research the product prior to selling it. Find out how much they usually go for used and price accordingly.
4. If you have a low post count and a zero iTrader do not be suprised if you do not sell your item.
5. Preffer local pick up. We have been fortunate enough on this board to not have any issues with scams... but you never know. ALWAYS use Paypal, money orders or cashier checks. Personal checks can bounce....
6. Shipping, make sure you say if you are willing to ship or not and how much it will cost. Remember.... shipping to Canada costs the buyer customs fee's. The Canadians love to ask you to ship it as a "Returned item" so that they don't have to pay a custom's fee. Be wary of this as you cannot insure it this way. They can claim they never got the product, as there is no way to track a package once it goes over that invisible line. You can lose your money, and your product that way.

REMEMBER! if the deal is too good to be true... it probably is....

Selling your car:

1. Check the Kelly Blue Book value price your car above that to start.
2. PICTURES!!! inside and out... the more the better
3. Offer the VIN# for inspection
4. List of mods
5. Don't be discouraged... maybe 1 in 10 cars that go up for sale in this forum get sold to a member on this forum. (use EBAY, trust me)
6. Be prepared to negotiate. Start your price high, so you can work down.

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