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-   -   CovertRussian's 05 LGT Build Thread (http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=218363)

covertrussian 12-15-2013 10:49 PM

CovertRussian's 05 LGT 5MT Build Thread
 
2005 Subaru Legacy GT 5MT
"Comfortable Daily" Build

Engine
Banjo Filter Removal
Invidia Uppipe Part 1 Part 2
Spark Plugs & Sidegaping
PCV Valve
Lightweight Crank Pulley - GrimmSpeed
Timing Belt Replacement
Cam Seal Replacement
Stromung Divorced Downpipe

Tuning
Closed Loop to Open Loop Delay Disable
Timing Compensation Zeroing

MPG Tuning
Stock Tune MPG: 24.6mpg Highway
AVCS 10* - 26.1mpg (+1.5mpg) - Set AVCS to 10* at cruising RPM's
AVCS 30* - 23.2mpg (-1.4mpg) - Increased AVCS to 30*, too much overlap caused MPG loss.
AVCS 15* - 28.1mpg (+3.5mpg) - Increased AVCS advance to be 15* highway.

Suspension
EMUSA WRX Front Endlinks
Front Strut Bar: JDM STI BL/BP
Front Lowercontrol Arm Rear Bushing: Whiteline KCA334
Centric Rotors & StopTech Pads

Drivetrain
Kartboy Short Throw Shifter

Cosmetic
Trunk Lip
Headunit Install Part 1 Part 2
Plasti-Dipped Grill
09 Key/Fob Upgrade & Programming
DRL Disable
STI Homelink Mirror
JDM DCC HVAC Conversion

General Build Posts
Passenger Front Wheel Bearing, Ball Joint
Right Axle
Transmission Oil, Kartboy STS, Cabin Filter
Brake Bleeding, Diff Fluid Change, Parking Brake Adjustment
Stock Exhaust Size and Aerodynamics
MAF Cleaning
Stock Airbox & Resonator Removal on Stock Downpipe

Pictures


Common Issues
Here is a list of common issues found with these cars.
  • Turbo Failure around 80k miles - There are two things that can cause this:
    1. Subaru used turbo oil feed banjo filters that get clogged and restrict oil flow to the turbo. Failure Example
    2. Subaru used a preturbo catalytic converter that breaks up overtime and gets logged into the turbo. Please note 2007+ LGT no longer have cats in up pipes. Failure Example
  • Throwout Bearing failure at around 60k miles - The push type clutches have badly designed throw out bearings that will get stuck on the pressure plate and destroy the input shaft's snout. There is a Tranquil TSK3 snout kit, use this if your snout if yours already has damage. Sadly there is no permanent fix, even TSK3 TOB's will fail at about 60k miles.
  • Fans always stay on - This on is 5MT specific, the secondary radiator fan relay can damage the ECU causing the fans to always stay on. There is an official recall for this.
  • Dual Mass Flywheel - Dual mass flywheels should be shunned from all cars, they are big & heavy and only lead to problems. More info on DMF's. Luckily you can upgrade to 07+ single mass setup (flywheel + clutch).
  • Wheel Bearings! - As with all Subaru's, be ready to replace all of the wheel bearings. Allwheeldriveauto.com Did a two part series on Subaru bearings: Part 1, Part 2
  • Dual Climate Control is physical tied to Radio - This is a major inconvenience (if you want to user aftermarket head unit) and has issues too. If one fails it takes the other down with him, LCD screens are known to give out on these too. There is a JDM Console Swap but it will cost you around $350 for the whole setup.
  • Front O2 Sensor Failure - Seems like the Front O2 sensors fail rather often, this is probably because of the O2 sensor being in before the turbo, thus is exposed to very nigh temperatures.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Intro

I'm fairly new to Subaru's but have been building FWD SR20 Nissan's for a while now. I made the switch to a LGT for daily driving because traction on a boosted FWD car is near impossible to find for power goals that I like to have.

http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...g?m=1383519313
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...g?m=1383519329
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...g?m=1383519328

Some pictures of my other toys
2000 Infiniti G20 - GT28R + 6 Speed Swapped - Legacy GT is replacing this car
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...g?m=1380807209
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...g?m=1384121697

2001 Nissan Sentra SE - JDM SR20DET + T25 + BC Coilovers/Ton suspension mods
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...g?m=1372429884
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...g?m=1387172879

2004 Forester XT - STI Uppipe, Wife's car great DD/off roading vehicle
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...g?m=1392316448

Max Capacity 12-16-2013 07:06 AM

Welcome, learn how to check the oil and keep it topped off, never let it get low.

Nice looking cars.

Read on here. all the info you want is here, hint, read the stickys at the top of each and every forum.

Oh here,

http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/

covertrussian 12-16-2013 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Max Capacity (Post 4671318)
Welcome, learn how to check the oil and keep it topped off, never let it get low.

Nice looking cars.

Read on here. all the info you want is here, hint, read the stickys at the top of each and every forum.

Oh here,

http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/

Thank you very much, didn't think these cars would be so cared of oil, but definitely good to know.

I've been lurking these forums for quite some time now, even before the purchase about month ago. I take a lot of pictures as I do the mods, thus I wanted to post them in one stop location. I may be moving some of the posts into individual How To's.

I definitely already got a sunburn from the awesome vacation, but I see you have some 09 vacation pics too, will pass it on to a friend!

Alright onto business of posting the currently done progress. Please do keep in mind, these posts posted on a Nissan forum, thus I might have details that we all already know as Subaru owners.

Max Capacity 12-16-2013 10:06 AM

In the General Chat forum here is a thread about show me your pix, it has a most of the years covered.

covertrussian 12-16-2013 10:07 AM

Banjo Filter Removal
 
This is the #1 reason Subaru turbos die often, second reason is Uppipe cat that breaks up over time. For some reason Subaru thought it was a great idea to put a fine mesh filter into the turbo and AVCS oil feed lines.

AVCS Filters
AVCS filters are the easiest to get to and check. Some Subaru's will have the mesh filters right before the AVCS, these have a tendency of getting stuck in the AVCS mechanism.
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...g?m=1383856270
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...g?m=1383856266

05 LGT bolt didn't seem to have the filter, but my 04 FXT definitely had them and they poped out of the banjo bolts. Dig around in the AVCS oil hole to make sure the filter is not in there, on my FXT, both filters fell out of the banjo bolt and was inside (hard to spot since they are black like the oil).
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...g?m=1383856266
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...g?m=1383856273


Turbo Feed/AVCS Feed
This one is the most important one, if this one is clogged it restricts oil flow to the turbo which causes to starve and fail. Most shops will replace the turbo afterwards without fixing the root cause, clogged turbo feed banjo bolt. Because of this most replacement turbos will fail within the next 10k miles.

Remove the bracket that bolts to the up pipe and to the block.
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...g?m=1384326660
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1383856269

Then you can see the oil feed banjo, use a 17mm ratcheting wrench to make your life easier.
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1383856275
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...g?m=1384326659

Filter is still in... pull it out and install the bolt without it. The hard lines have a built in restrictor for the turbo.
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1383856289
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1383856302

This filter is definitely clogged, this caused my car's turbo to go out, sadly the previous owner didn't pull it out, thus the replacement turbo might be in a bad shape too.
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1383856302

Driver Side Head AVCS Feed
This one requires the most work to remove, it's best to do it while you are replacing the timing belt and the cam seals.

Here is a pic of how close the Banjo bolt is to the timing cover, there is simply not enough room to remove it on car without damaging the timing cover. If you grind the hump off, you will have more room to get the banjo out.
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...g?m=1395409076

This plastic cover is in the way and can only be removed with the cam gears removed. You will need to loosen the dip stick tube to get the plastic cover out.
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1395281349

Finally easy access to the bolt
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1395281344

As expected the filter was in place still
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1395281344

And very dirty, if this was on the turbo feed/avcs line the turbo would be dead due to oil starvation.
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1395281339

I removed the whole hard line, notice that the bolt that goes into the AVCS side itself doesn't have a hump. That hump makes it impossible to remove this banjo bolt with the timing cover on.
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1395281339

I'm going to put the humpless bolt on the head, I also shaved one side of the banjo bolt so that I could squeeze it past the timing cover if I ever have to deal with it again. Do yourself a favor and use new seals on the head it self, you can try to reuse the old seals on the AVCS end, they are easy to replace if they leak.
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1395281350

All done and happy!
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1395281354
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...g?m=1395547448

covertrussian 12-16-2013 10:12 AM

Passenger Front Wheel Bearing, Ball Joint
 
It all started with me hearing more wobbling noises, naturally I assumed another wheel bearing is on it's way out, this time right front one. Sadly after all of this work, the noise was still there, I rotated the tires and the noise moved :poke:. Oh well at least I needed a new axle/axle seal anyway.

Look at that beefy rotor!
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385003021

This thing does indeed have massive brakes, I can see why Outback guys want to upgrade to LGT setups.
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385002999

What's this... runs to FSM... this car has oem camber adjustment, not used to seeing all of this fanciness!
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385002999

Fanciness ended when I saw that they are crash bolts.
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385003003


Front Wheel Bearing
As I now know the wheel bearing was okish, oh well, I needed a new stud anyway, current one was so rusty that the previous owner didn't have a lug nut. I tried to install one and cross threaded a brand new nut.
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385002966

It's bolted up in the back of the hub, do notice the ABS/Speed sensor that needs to be removed before you can pull the bearing assembly out.
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385002951

All out
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385002956

All in
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385002968


Well that was easy right? Sure until you need to replace the axle too. Which lead to me needing a new ball joint too.

Ball Joint
The fun began when I tried to remove the lower ball joint knuckle bolt so that I could pull the knuckle out and get the axle out.
As you can see Subaru went with the reversed ball joint setup, I hate these with a passion for this exact reason!
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385002667

Luckily I had a spare ball joint sitting waiting (actually it was supposed to go into the Forester)
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385002669

Took the knuckle out and started hacking away
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385002680
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385002681

The carbide burr helped a ton with getting the shell of the ball joint out
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385002670

Since the ball joint has a dimple for the bolt, rust tends to form inside, so it's a good idea to clean it up on the inside
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385002689

Next stage of fun, drilling the bolt out, I think Subaru used a grade 8.8 bolt, this thing was a little too soft honestly.
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385002698

Threads are useless, best route is to use a longer bolt with a nut now.
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385002701

Luckily again I had a long enough 10.9 bolt (P11 6 speed leftovers)
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385002704

And done
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385002711
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385002720

Max Capacity 12-16-2013 10:12 AM

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...pixi-6216.html


That's a dirty filter.


05-06 have them on the passenger side head as pictured and on the front of the drivers side head. You can file the top off the bolt, back it out, remove the filter without pulling the timing belt covers.

HAMMERDOWN did it and posted pictures.

I have mine removed when the new short block was assembled at the machine shop.

covertrussian 12-16-2013 10:12 AM

Right Axle
 
Right Axle
Finally onto the main reason why I had to do all of this extra work past the wheel bearing, boot was pretty ripped. I was tempted to repair it, but EMPI axles are $67 shipped, hard to beat that.
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385002358
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385002345
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385002337

Another reason to remove the axle was, the car was bleeding smurf blood due to the axle seal being reused by the shop that did the TOB work!
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385002344

Got a new seal at Subaru, Part # 806735300, they are about $8 a piece. I at first went to Advance auto, not only did I get the wrong seal (wasn't really showing up in their system) it was more expensive then Subaru seal!
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385002338

I was able to push it in with bare hands, not sure if I'm happy or worried about that part, with Nissan I'm used to dedicated at least an hour just to get the stupid seals in, this guy went in within 5 minutes!
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385002359

New axle was a breeze to install too, I gotta say this was the fastest axle/seal job I've ever done.
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385002369

covertrussian 12-16-2013 10:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Max Capacity (Post 4671519)
http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...pixi-6216.html


That's a dirty filter.


05-06 have them on the passenger side head as pictured and on the front of the drivers side head. You can file the top off the bolt, back it out, remove the filter without pulling the timing belt covers.

HAMMERDOWN did it and posted pictures.

I have mine removed when the new short block was assembled at the machine shop.

I gotta do my timing belt sometime this summer (at 98k miles right now), thus I plan on pulling the passenger side filter at that point. Since it's only affecting the AVCS, I'm not as worried about it. But definitely on my to do list.

I hate timing belts and the replacement dances, I've owned nothing but timing chained cars for the last decade, thus it is an unfriendly change. I'm glad that Subaru finally switched to chains for 2014 models though!

StoplightAssassin 12-16-2013 10:18 AM

Holy shit that's a lot of crap in the bb filter. FWIW I never had more than a fleck or two in mine. I usually check once every 2 years.

Is the car on its original turbo still? I'd pull the DP and check the turbo for shaft play ASAP. A full oil system flush is probably in order too.

Max Capacity 12-16-2013 10:19 AM

Next tip, use anti sieze compound on every nut and bolt you install.

You seem to have clue how to work on cars. That's great.

Oh I learned that a new spindle is like $114. It's sometimes easier to just replace it when doing ball joints. Thats a common problem on these, that bolt always breaks.

covertrussian 12-16-2013 10:20 AM

Invidia Uppipe part 1
 
2005-06 Legacy GT's have a catalytic converter inside the up pipe before the turbo, replacing gets you ~10whp and might save your turbo. I think Subaru realized this too and in 07 LGT's came with a catless same as STI up pipe, instead they introduced an air pump to help the emissions.

GrimmSpeed did some awesome CFM testing of different up pipes. Catted up pipes flow 165 CFM, you can gut the stock one, very involved process and you run the risk left over material going into your turbo, airflow does improve by 50 CFM (216 total), which is still worse then OEM catless uppipe (at 245 CFM). GrimmSpeed's uppipe did 293 CFM, which is almost double the airflow of stock. Now Grimm's up pipe does have a flex pipe, which IMO are not needed and add turbulence, that plus the price is why I went with the Invidia uppipe.

Up pipe is install is not hard, but is also not easy as the downpipe install. It's just a very involved process where you have to remove the headers and the downpipe.

Gain access to the turbo and downpipe.
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385261474
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385261485

Remove the EGT sensor if you can, it will help you more easily pull out the up pipe. Mine was stuck thus I had to remove the uppipe as is, it was still doable, just bent the sensor.
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385261471
Mine was so stuck I couldn't get it off even with MAP heat while it was off the car.
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385261530

Downpipe has a bolt that holds it under the car, but there is also a little bracket that catches it. This was a pain to work with, I ended up cutting the lip off so that I can push down the downpipe more.
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385261491

Remove the downpipe bolts. There is one downpipe bolt (one on the intercooler side) which was nearly impossible to break loose, just not enough room for a breaker bar and a wrench cuts your hands. Use a screw driver to force the downpipe off the turbo. This all is much easier if you just remove the downpipe all together and replace it with a new one. I don't know why Subaru thought it is a great idea to put two bolts right under the downpipe.
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385261479


Next is removing the header, first you need to drop the diaper and start removing the super rusty heat shields, to gain access to the nuts on the heads.
Unplug and unhook the O2 sensor from the engine! O2 sensors are very sensitive on these cars, I damaged mine by leaving the exhaust manifold hang on the O2 sensor wires!
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385261493
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385261503

Don't forget to unbolt the up pipe from the header too.
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385261504

This caught me by surprise, no wonder catless pipes gain so much power!
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385261510

Grab it and pull it out
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385261516

Invidia vs OEM catted up pipe header end:
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385261518

OEM LGT uppipe entry is about 40mm
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1386722212

STI Upipipe is not much abetter at about 43mm
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1386722200

It should be well over 50mm to not be a flow wall, this is the exact reason why I like the Invidia Uppipe
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1386722214

covertrussian 12-16-2013 10:20 AM

Invidia Uppipe part 2
 
Invidia vs OEM catted turbo end:
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385261525

Invidia has smooth transitions inside the pipe, it does also have not an ideal taper on header end.
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385261549
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385261551

Compare that to the OEM uppipe, it's like it was purposefully designed to suck and reduce power.
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385261560

Turbo end shows the cat and EGT, notice how poor the transitions are.
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385261566

Invidia uppie has a bung for the OEM EGT, but oem EGT is meant for checking the health of the cat only, it's too far away to give accurate EGT, plus it can break and kill your turbo and finally I'm hearing they burn up faster without the cat. You will need a hard to find M12x1.25 bolt, parts stores do sell drain plugs in that size for around $5. I was able to find a plain bolt at local hardware store and cut it to fit.
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385261535
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385261540

Gaskets, now is the time to replace those 10 year old gaskets...
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385261569

Getting the uppipe was not hard, but trying to hold it and bolt a bolt up did get tricky, not enough hand room.
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385261577
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385261590

I personally tightened the the turbo bolts before getting the header attached, if you keep them loose it might make it slightly easier to get the header installed.
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385261589
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385261748

Get new gaskets on the header, and bolt everything up.
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385261599
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385261609
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1385261612
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1386131501

Now I didn't realize this until I started looking for exhaust leaks do to a whiny O2 sensor code. Apparently I put the second gasket ontop of the stock one, fitment is perfect and I see no leaks, thus I think this up pipe might actually be a little short, if it prevents cracks I'm all up for it too!
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...G?m=1386131497

All of this took about 4 hours, rusty parts and stuck bolts is the main reason for why it took so long. I'll do some Virtual Dyno runs in the next few days and will see how it did powerwise, also will see if MPG improves.


Results
Finally did a virtual dyno, I rest the ECU for both runs, and drove the car until IAM hit 1.0 that way timing would be identical for both runs. Waited for another warm day in November and did another run, compensating for temperature, pressure and fuel/toolbox weight. 7whp/10wtq peak gains!
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...g?m=1386130584

Do notice the AFR dip, this is a stock sensor thus it only reads to 11.1 and even then it's not accurate. I'll have my MTX-L hooked up after I get rid of the P11. Also please note that this is not necessarily the best road for peak WHP (slight up hill), but it's very easy for me to do repeat runs on this specific road. On a straighter road the car is making 213whp.

CEL Fixing
Doing this mod will cause the EGT codes to light up. There are two ways of fixing it, through a cheap resistor mod or by reflashing the ecu. For now I wanted decided to do the resistor mod, but will reflash the ECU with the downpipe.

Resistor route
Get a 2.2-kohm 1/2-watt Resistor (Radioshack # 2711121), what's interesting is, this resistor makes the ECU think the EGT is always at 1292 *F.
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...g?m=1385324155

Tape it off so it doesn't fall out
http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums...g?m=1385324153

Disabling the CEL's through reflash
Disabled these codes in your tune:
P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold
P0545 - Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit Low
P0546 - Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit High
P1301 - Misfire Detected (High Temperature Exhaust Gas)
P1312 - Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Malfunction
P1544 - Exhaust Gas Temperature Too High

Max Capacity 12-16-2013 10:21 AM

Oh another hint, save the old OEM axle and rebiuld it for next time...trust me on that one.

Max Capacity 12-16-2013 10:25 AM

Did you use a OEM front O2 sensor. If not, do that next time. Trust me again. the rear O2 can be after market...so far mine is good, but I had to replace the 2 year front with a OEM one last month.

Same with Hubs, front should be OEM, rears can be Moog


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