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-   -   '98 Legacy GT-B Horrendous oil leakage (http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=203440)

taniwh4 03-12-2013 10:23 PM

'98 Legacy GT-B Horrendous oil leakage
 
Afternoon guys,

I have a '98 Legacy GT-B TT Manual that has been legally 'off the road' in NZ for roughly a year and a half; however, i have been driving it at least once a week to work and back (5kms). Over this time i have only driven a total of roughly 10-20,000kms.

The oil problem i noticed about a year and a half ago when oil leak became visible on driveway. I have taken it to 3 mechanics over this time thatl have contradicting stories as to what the problem might be. From the oil pump 'o' ring needs to be replaced to 'the turbos are going to die maybe in the next couple of weeks and the engine is almost dead' - It has now been over 6 months and everything runs very stable as far as i am concerned.

Anyway, the leak is very consistent however it is very slow. I have replaced rocket cover gaskets including coil pack seals to eliminate the obvious, changed oil and filter twice and i have also pulled the front of the timing belt cover off after i was told the 'o' ring needs to be replaced but there was absolute shit all in there.

When inspecting the car under a hoist there is thick oil build-up around the gearbox and some very light and slow 'drizzle' from around the oil filter area.
The sump and filter also has a nice covering of thick oil.

Ironic thing of all is the dipstick shows that the level is at OR above full even when checked in the morning when everything settles. I will be posting up photos and some other reports in a couple of hours and would appreciate your guys support! Cheers!

jasonhoward64 04-14-2013 10:16 PM

Level doesn't change even though there is a massive oil leak? Sounds like you're leaking something other than engine oil...

gergeek 04-14-2013 10:41 PM

nice car, lets switch....mine doesnt leak haha.

Stang70Fastback 04-15-2013 12:23 AM

I didn't get "horrendous oil leakage" out of any part of your post. What am I missing?

Bassnectar 04-15-2013 01:23 AM

Thick oil buildup around gearbox hmmm rear main seal maybe? Clutch doesn't slip does it?There should be a transmission dipstick to are levels fine In both? Get the oil on your finger and smell it. Gear oil smells turrible and engine oil not that bad unless filthy. Any car that sits I would give high mileage oil for 2k miles then switch to rotella as the high mileage will swell the seals.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

http://i1155.photobucket.com/albums/...psf075190d.jpg

I know most people with wrx's reccomend replacing the rear main when doing the clutch, so I think they may be more prone to failure on Turbo Subies especially if they have time to sit and shrivel up, but as you can see from the picture both are in the same area so pulling the engine will verify either leak to you.

taniwh4 04-15-2013 02:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stang70Fastback (Post 4389963)
I didn't get "horrendous oil leakage" out of any part of your post. What am I missing?

Horrendous in the way that it's quite a mystery so far and hard to pin down the prob.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bassnectar (Post 4389984)
Thick oil buildup around gearbox hmmm rear main seal maybe? Clutch doesn't slip does it?There should be a transmission dipstick to are levels fine In both? Get the oil on your finger and smell it. Gear oil smells turrible and engine oil not that bad unless filthy. Any car that sits I would give high mileage oil for 2k miles then switch to rotella as the high mileage will swell the seals.

I will have rear seal checked soon hopefully as it could most likely be a culprit.
No slipping in the clutch that seems fine. Will check these things out also though. Cheers!

johnegg 04-15-2013 06:56 AM

common oil leaks for EJ engines.

1/ NOT the rear main seal. they usually last the life of the car or until someone replaces them incorrectly. so NOT the rear main seal.

2/ oil separator plate on the rear of the block next to the rear main seal (behind the flywheel / flex plate, depending on the trans.) lots of these were plastic covers from the factory and over time they crack at the screws. if it has not been change this is the leak on the rear near the trans. not an expensive part, but you have to pull the engine to replace it.

3/ valve cover gaskets (rocker covers?) and spark plug tube seals (if you have them, DOHC?) you did replaced these so no problem there.

4/ front crank shaft seal / oil pump seal and o-ring. this is usually addressed during a timing belt change. it can cause oil to drip off of the front bottom of the motor / oil pump. also check the screws on the back side of the pump backing plate. they can come lose. they do not really cause a leak but the can cause lower oil pressure.

5/ cam shaft seals, again, these are usually done at the same time as the timing belt. but if they are leaking, they need to be done even if the belt is not. but the only money you will save by not doing the belt is the parts, the labor is the same.

6/ and a few folks have reported oil leaking from the oil pressure sensor on top of the block under the intake and / or the alternator. it is a single wire sensor threaded into the block.

7/ other leaks, other than engine oil: the power steering pump. this usaualy it caused by a bad o-ring in between the reservoir and the pump. cheap part and easy fix.

8/ finally it could be the head gaskets. not common for most EJ engines except the ej25, 2.5L . and then external oil leaks are usually only common in the 00 - 03 model years (US). but it is possible.

i would do the leaks on the front of the engine first, timing belt too unless you just did it. (if the belt is oil soaked i MUST be replaced. )and i would save the rear leak for when you need to pull the engine for some other reason, clutch, head gaskets, valves, what ever.

but if you are committed to fixing the leaks, pull the engine now and do them ALL, (front, rear and top?) with the engine out. and do the timing belt and clutch at the same time. then reinstall the engine and drive it for 100k.

good luck.

Hemingway 04-15-2013 07:43 AM

Might be a good idea to clean off all the existing oil buildup. Any new leaks will be easier to locate without all the buildup.

taniwh4 04-16-2013 03:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnegg (Post 4390047)
common oil leaks for EJ engines.

1/ NOT the rear main seal. they usually last the life of the car or until someone replaces them incorrectly. so NOT the rear main seal.

2/ oil separator plate on the rear of the block next to the rear main seal (behind the flywheel / flex plate, depending on the trans.) lots of these were plastic covers from the factory and over time they crack at the screws. if it has not been change this is the leak on the rear near the trans. not an expensive part, but you have to pull the engine to replace it.

3/ valve cover gaskets (rocker covers?) and spark plug tube seals (if you have them, DOHC?) you did replaced these so no problem there.

4/ front crank shaft seal / oil pump seal and o-ring. this is usually addressed during a timing belt change. it can cause oil to drip off of the front bottom of the motor / oil pump. also check the screws on the back side of the pump backing plate. they can come lose. they do not really cause a leak but the can cause lower oil pressure.

5/ cam shaft seals, again, these are usually done at the same time as the timing belt. but if they are leaking, they need to be done even if the belt is not. but the only money you will save by not doing the belt is the parts, the labor is the same.

6/ and a few folks have reported oil leaking from the oil pressure sensor on top of the block under the intake and / or the alternator. it is a single wire sensor threaded into the block.

7/ other leaks, other than engine oil: the power steering pump. this usaualy it caused by a bad o-ring in between the reservoir and the pump. cheap part and easy fix.

8/ finally it could be the head gaskets. not common for most EJ engines except the ej25, 2.5L . and then external oil leaks are usually only common in the 00 - 03 model years (US). but it is possible.

i would do the leaks on the front of the engine first, timing belt too unless you just did it. (if the belt is oil soaked i MUST be replaced. )and i would save the rear leak for when you need to pull the engine for some other reason, clutch, head gaskets, valves, what ever.

but if you are committed to fixing the leaks, pull the engine now and do them ALL, (front, rear and top?) with the engine out. and do the timing belt and clutch at the same time. then reinstall the engine and drive it for 100k.

good luck.

Wow cheers thanks heaps for the checklist. I think it will make sense to pull the whole engine and do it that way to eliminate everything since it seems to be multiple areas that are leaking at present. Thanks again

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hemingway (Post 4390071)
Might be a good idea to clean off all the existing oil buildup. Any new leaks will be easier to locate without all the buildup.

Certainly will be doing this from now until it gets sent off to get worked on. Cheers

Tr00b 04-19-2013 05:57 PM

I don't read good but if you have dribbling off of your oil filter very likely cam seals


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