Can you interpret my Learning view?
 

So according to this...i has boost leak? That's what I gather from reading around, but just wanted someone familiar with this to give me their opinion. I am stock except for cat back. I've noticed a steep drop in fuel economy in the past couple weeks.

Also, could anyone tell me it those knock correction tables look like they could be caused by the same source?
Thanks in advance!!

A consistent negative correction in the higher ranges may indicate a boost leak. A negative learning value means the ECU is pulling fuel because of a perceived rich condition. Other possibilities besides a boost leak would be a bad MAF or front o2 sensor. Generally, a/f learning #1 should be within -/+5%.

Try resetting the ecu and drive around for a few days, then see if the learning view is the same.

Yes and yes. I had similar looking LV's when my Turbo XS BOV started leaking.

I'll reset tomorrow. How many miles to be able to trust the lv values again?

Could also be a pre-O2 sensor exhaust leak throwing off the readings.

Not sure if this is worth anything, but I feel like I've heard a little more "whoosh" when the turbo spools up w/in the past few weeks too. But that could be worthless information because I always think I'm hearing things. My wife hates it! I'm always turning off the radio and like, "honey, did you hear that?" She then rolls her eyes and turns the radio back on :-D

Which one of these should i get?
turboleaktesters.com

So I reset and ran some errands. I'd guess I drove about 20 miles. Here's the new learning view.

I still want to do a boost leak test, but I need to order a kit. But, looking around I found a torn inlet boot where it meets the turbo, but in my mind that should lend itself to lean conditions (and positive a/f learning view) since it's grabbing more air than the MAF meters. Is that thinking correct? If I go to replace this thing, should I I just stick with stock? Additionally, is there a nice walk through on replacing it? It seems like a b- to replace. Thanks for tolerating all my questions.

You have to remove the intake manifold to replace it unless you replace it with a flexible silicone aftermarket one (in which case you'll probably have to cut the stock one in half to get it out). I wouldn't mess with any of the cheaper aftermarket ones though - the time you gain in not removing the intake manifold will be lost in dealing with the fitment issues, and you won't feel good about your work after.

There are some quality aftermarket ones though (don't remember which off the top of my head). It really boils down to the extra cost of one of the high quality aftermarket ones vs the extra time to remove the intake manifold in order to use the OEM.

If you are not mechanically handy, I would take it to a local shop to have the intake to the turbo replaced. Buy an aftermarket silicone intake.

Thanks. In my case, cost almost always wins out over time. Plus, from what I've been reading, there are really no gains to be had with a better tube until the turbo is upgraded, which in my case is a long ways off.

It's not a problem. I can do it. But it definitely looks like a pain. It does look easier than the bmw m50 manifold, though. I was just hoping for a walk-through because sometimes there's insight from people who've done a task before. Why do you say buy an aftermarket? Is there an advantage in your opinion?

I'm still curious, is it possible for a tear there to show negative lv numbers? Wouldn't they be positive because of extra unmetered air due to that area always being under vacuum? Thanks for all your input!

You're right about the A/F correction. It should be positive for a pre turbo leak. You might still have another post turbo leak.

The advantages of the aftermarket silicone are:
1. Easy installation
2. Seems like it would be more durable than stock which seems to have a weak point where it connects to the turbo. The stock ones seem to last 8+ years though.

I've installed 2 of the cheaper aftermarket ones on friend's cars, and the fitment was just awful. The higher quality ones might very well fit better though, but based on my experience with the cheap ones, I'd just stick to the OEM. It's not THAT hard to remove the IM.