06silvarubilLGT's Rebuild Thread
 

So as some of you know the motor in my LGT is on its way out. I had to move some finances around to make it happen, but I was able to put up enough money to get a Forged build done, and wanted to keep it documented and get some opinions. Im not building this thing for big numbers, not even putting a bigger turbo on it at first. So keep that in mind, its just a "stronger than stock" build. The VF40 that's on the car has only 35k on it at this point so Im gunna stay with it, unless I find and issue with it upon removal. Biggest turbo Id probably ever run is an 18G-ish due to the 5EAT, but that's later if ever. And of course I do have a budget so have to keep that in mind.
First off I would like to thank any vendor that has assisted me in the process, Ive not ordered anything yet, so you all will receive a portion of business in the next few weeks.
I going to be pulling the long-block myself, removing the heads and necessary parts and shipping them to Pheonix Performance for them to rebuild the heads with slight valve job and attach them to a freshly built shortblock. Then ship it to me as a longblock. Im having the block built as follows


Short Block-
JE Pistons (there preference)
08+ STI Crank and Rods
ARP Headstuds
10mm Oil Pump
Moroso Oil Pickup
OE HeadGasket
Gates Timing Kit
Remove Banjo Filters
Filtered Turbo Oil Feed

Heads:
Standard Refresh (with any needed replacement parts)
3 Angle Valve Job
Grimmspeed 3mm TGV spacer

Fuel:
STi Fuel Pump Control Module and Pump

Gauges:
Perrin Column Pod
AEM WB
Boost gauge....
Debating on Oil Pressure...

Maybe's:
I have TGV deletes that could be finished
Perrin Turbo Inlet
850cc Injectors
Port Throttle Body
LWCP
PnP Headers

Trans:
Hayden External Cooler (already installed)
Derale Fluid T-stat for Trans (waiting for install)

So at this point please post any useful suggestions or additions to me list.

Also since its the 5EAT, is it a pain to get A/T separated from the engine? All the subies Ive ownd were MT.
Thanks guys, enjoy the coming story and pics..

I don't recall having any issues separating the engine from the transmission on my wife's OBS (although it is a 4EAT). Just make sure to unbolt the torque converter (remove bolt, rotate engine, repeat) before trying to separate the engine from the transmission. It appears you have a sound build. Which brand bearings will be used, ACL, King or OEM?

consider the vb upgrade from hexmods on that 5eat.

IMO, if you're going to stick with a 18g, then you don't need forged pistons. But even if you do go forged, I would highly consider 4032 alloy instead of 2618.

If its sees a bigger snail I most definitely will. Thx

Rhino ACL

MD, can you teach me in a nut shell why?

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x.../worthless.gif



:)

Subbed for knowledge.

Are you removing both banjo filters ?

Yes and filtered oil feed.. thx max

good luck with all this... subbed in.

Was thinking of going with a divorced Shorty DP, if I do, the WB would have to go into the pipe after they meet up again correct?
As far as Pistons Coated Skirts and domes or just skirts?









These are pretty.. not sure which way to go

Why?

b/c I already had the CBE customized to remove the 2nd cat.. so it would be another trip to exhaust shop to get something like regular length CNT..

I vote for skirts only.

why... not race car.


But then again, why in the first place?


Have you asked the machine shop the same question ?