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-   -   Cobb AccessPORT before & after (http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=199355)

Sweet Mercy 01-09-2013 08:46 AM

Cobb AccessPORT before & after
 
4 Attachment(s)
Received my SUB-002 last night and I wanted to share before and after results from 0-60 and 1/4 times measured with my GTech Pro SS.

To set the stage: 2005 LGT, 5AT, 120K miles. Only mod is a drop-in AEM dryflow filter. Had numerous issues with a cyl misfire between 100K tune-up and 119K miles, that for whatever reason was cured when a local engine builder guaranteed me that using Bosch copper plugs instead of the NGK IR would solve the problem and he was correct, the car was smooth! He said the car, with that kind of mileage, simply didn't burn as clean/good as it did when newer and that the car was running a little richer than it should.

Ok, down to results. I did my best to do each run for comparison as identical as possible. It was 3 degrees cooler on the last runs. We do not have 91 octane here so 93 has always been ran in the car and that's what I chose. Stage 1, 93.

All stock run with AEM filter. 0-60 with me and one passenger on a deserted country road. 6.23 seconds
1/4 run before accessport 14.7 @ 93.2mph

0-60 after accessport, same conditions, same passenger 5.47 seconds.
1/4 run after 14.01 @ 96.4mph.

I didn't do the runs for comparison to other similar cars or for exact numbers. Just a comparison to show others measurable results.

0-60 6.23 stock
0-60 5.47 Stage 1 93
1/4 14.7 @ 93.2 stock
1/4 14.01 @ 96.4 Stage 1 93

Now, my only issue so far is that under a light load the car feels "jerky" like there is a slight miss. Imagine that with my previous issues.
After driving the car about 50 miles last night I got a CEL. I checked it with the accessport and it gave me a code, p0171, "running to lean, Bank 1".

I cleared it and came to work in it this morning as a passenger with the accessport logging info. The A/F ratio almost always stayed around 14.6 to 14.7. When letting off the gas completely, such as going down a hill or coming to a stop sign, it would go to 20.7 and under full acceleration it would drop to 11.0 but again, it was almost always in the mid 14's.

I'm wondering if it has something to do with a new tune and the copper plugs or if the car needs time to make adjustments to the A/F mixture?? Or if the AEM filter is the culprit? Maybe there is another tune I can choose since I have the filter. When I spoke with Cobb last night, they suggested I go with Stage 1, 93.

Regardless, the immediate acceleration was crazy as it sprinted to 60 3/4 second faster. I couldn't believe how much stronger the car felt.

If anyone has ideas on what I can check with that accessport, please let me know. This is my first experience with something like this so any help is appreciated.

I attached pictures of all 4 runs.

Max Capacity 01-09-2013 08:51 AM

Have you cleaned the MAF sensor lately ?

Sweet Mercy 01-09-2013 09:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Max Capacity (Post 4237785)
Have you cleaned the MAF sensor lately ?


Honestly don't know that it's ever been cleaned. I'll pick up a bottle of Mass air flow sensor cleaner on my way home this evening. I've heard you can use rubbing alcohol but not sure about that.

Are these the correct steps? Carefully remove the MAF (two phillips head screws) and gently spray the cleaner and wipe off with a clean cloth, allow to dry thoroughly...

Is there anything inside, when I remove the MAF that needs to be cleaned?
Sorry, I'm learning as I go.

Max Capacity 01-09-2013 09:34 AM

I just pull it out, leave the wire hooked up. Laid a clean rag down to set it on, sprayed it, used a Q-tip to lightly dry it.

The tube is the MAF sensor, the small wires are the AIT sensor. (air inlet temp sensor)
It shouldn't take more then a few minutes to dry.

I have had to re-set the ecu for the CEL it got once after cleaning it.

Just pull the negitive battery cable for a few minutes, may be 15 minutes or so.

I have posted pictures on here in one of the Forums but can't post pictures from work. My car seemed to run smoother after that.

Sweet Mercy 01-09-2013 09:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Max Capacity (Post 4237852)
I just pull it out, leave the wire hooked up. Laid a clean rag down to set it on, sprayed it, used a Q-tip to lightly dry it.

The tube is the MAF sensor, the small wires are the AIT sensor. (air inlet temp sensor)
It shouldn't take more then a few minutes to dry.

I have had to re-set the ecu for the CEL it got once after cleaning it.

Just pull the negitive battery cable for a few minutes, may be 15 minutes or so.

I have posted pictures on here in one of the Forums but can't post pictures from work. My car seemed to run smoother after that.

Awesome! I'll search for your pictures. When I unhook the battery, does the ECU stay on what I currently have loaded, Stage 1, 93? I'm making sure it doesn't go back to the original setting and I'd have to reinstall it.

Max Capacity 01-09-2013 11:21 AM

If you have a base map installed as the stage 1 it will stay there.

If you have a Cobb AP version 1 with a custom tune, you will have to reload it.

Cobb AP version 2 can load custom tunes as a base map so it will stay there too.

That's why I upgraded my Cobb AP V1 on there trade in program.

Sweet Mercy 01-09-2013 11:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Max Capacity (Post 4238069)
If you have a base map installed as the stage 1 it will stay there.

If you have a Cobb AP version 1 with a custom tune, you will have to reload it.

Cobb AP version 2 can load custom tunes as a base map so it will stay there too.

That's why I upgraded my Cobb AP V1 on there trade in program.


It's their "out of the box--off the shelf" Stage 1, 93 tune.

caravan 01-10-2013 04:16 AM

cool. did u launch or brake torque for the runs?

Sweet Mercy 01-10-2013 08:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by caravan (Post 4239382)
cool. did u launch or brake torque for the runs?


I held the foot brake and launched at around 3K rpms. I have no idea if that's where the rpms should be. The car seemed to respond very well with that.

iNVAR 01-10-2013 10:10 AM

Make sure you've logged your runs before to see if you're knocking. Just because the map says 93 and your gas is 93 doesn't mean you won't knock. Many people (including myself) had to go to the 91 map to prevent unacceptable knocking.

mwiener2 01-10-2013 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sweet Mercy (Post 4237779)
for whatever reason was cured when a local engine builder guaranteed me that using Bosch copper plugs instead of the NGK IR would solve the problem and he was correct, the car was smooth! He said the car, with that kind of mileage, simply didn't burn as clean/good as it did when newer and that the car was running a little richer than it should.

Take the car to someone who knows Subarus. You have an underlying problem that needs attention. Properly gaped iridiums don't spark any differently than the coppers he put in. Now you need to change your plugs in 20-30k miles.

iNVAR 01-10-2013 10:50 AM

^-- That too. Forgot to mention that. OP you should be using stock Iridium plugs, not copper.

rob-2 01-10-2013 12:40 PM

Sorry to hear of your troubles and while I don't have any advice that's not been mentioned, thank you for taking the time to put up your figures. We drive the same car with the same specs, less difference in spark plugs.

Sweet Mercy 01-10-2013 12:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mwiener2 (Post 4239803)
Take the car to someone who knows Subarus. You have an underlying problem that needs attention. Properly gaped iridiums don't spark any differently than the coppers he put in. Now you need to change your plugs in 20-30k miles.

I don't disagree with ya at all. I just know the car hadn't idled smoothly in a few years, heck maybe since we bought it in 05. I asked the local Subaru dealer religiously about it and they said it was "normal" for a boxer engine.

I never had a CEL until I had the 100K tune-up on the car. New timing belt, plugs etc... From that point, before I got the car home, up to 119K I had a random CEL for cyl 1, Local subaru dealer changed the plug again, that didn't help, they then changed the coil pack, that didn't help. They switched injectors 1 and 3 to see if it would follow it, it didn't. Then I think the CEL moved to cyl 2--memory is fading a bit. Then finally, the plug fouled out completely and I towed it to a local engine builder because it was missing so badly.

He had the car for a couple days and couldn't find anything wrong. He did did a leak-down test etc to make sure I had nothing seriously wrong with the engine and he said it passed with flying colors and was in exceptional condition for it's age. He finally called and said, I think I know how to fix it. He has a buddy from Chicago that specializes with Subarus, Mitsubishi's etc. His recommendation was to put Bosch copper plugs in it. His theory, the best I could understand, was that the car had a lot of miles on it and simply didn't burn as clean as it did when new and was running on the "rich" side according to him. I reluctantly said OK because I was so sick of the random CEL.

I picked the car up and it had never ran better or idled so smoothly. I couldn't even feel it idle. The car was quicker and felt stronger. The only drawback was that my gas mileage fell 2-3mpg's. Other than that, the car ran like a new one. I was so happy with it, I decided to buy the Cobb accessport. Car runs even better now, idles fine but has a weird "surge" when under a light load, like when pulling a small incline anywhere between 50-70mph and the rpms are between 2-3k. A/F ratio is 14.4 to 14.7ish during this time. I cleaned the MAF last night but it made no difference. Car does not use a drop of oil.

If I hadn't experienced the copper plugs, I would never have believed how much better the car behaves. But again, I'm not disagreeing about the NGK's just giving you my personal experience.

mwiener2 01-10-2013 01:19 PM

Ok. You still have a problem. Get it checked by a Subaru shop.


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