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zepplinluvr2 12-24-2012 11:23 AM

How to make 2005 lgt last longer
So I just bought a 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon (limited) and I did some research AFTER I purchased it and found that they are notorious for the turbo going bad, or the engine blowing up. Can somebody give me some good advice about how good these cars are???? I too paranoid to drive it hard, and so I've been babying it since I bought it. I need this thing to last a long time, so also what can I do to make it last longer??? What kind of upgrades would you guys recommend? What kind of upgrades should I steer clear of? Any advice, or suggestions would be appreciated. ESPECIALLY words of wisdom, that would make me worry less about my engine blowing up. I also smell like burning smoke after I drive it for a long-ish distance and park. It comes through the heater and it worries me. Although my 98 Outback did the same thing, and had issues. Thanks guys!!!!!!!!

Aracheon 12-24-2012 11:35 AM

Remove the banjo bolt and replace the turbo feed line with the filtered IP&T offering.

angeltalin 12-24-2012 12:02 PM

i dont think the above is really necassary for stock turbo...maybe it is but def. remove the bolt screen or replace with a new bolt every so often.

Aracheon 12-24-2012 01:08 PM


Originally Posted by angeltalin (Post 4217753)
i dont think the above is really necassary for stock turbo...

I think every LGT owner who has dealt with a blown turbo due to oil starvation would say otherwise.

I was in the middle of BFE, hadn't even put 250mi on the car from the location of purchase before my turbine wheel snapped off.

angeltalin 12-24-2012 04:04 PM

i agree with that, mine blew within two weeks of owning it, but i went for a 20g so i got the line, i have read that some people dont bother with a 175 $ line for stock turbo, but if OP has the money and wants piece of mind sure i would do it!

nm+ 12-24-2012 05:17 PM

The oil smell is probably a small oil leak falling on something exhaust related.

I'm at 120k on stock turbo (lasted twice as long as the engine!) ,and it looked solid at 90k mi. ~4000mi OCI with synthetic (this is based on blackstone UOAs). I don't think the type of synthetic matters much (though I use 5w40 because it holds pressure better at track temps than 5w30), but it does seem to handle high heats better than dino juice. The 7500mi dino oil recommendation you see in the manual has been revised by subaru to 3750mi.

Oh and banjo bolt removal.

The most important is to check your damn oil frequently. These cars can burn oil quickly and irregularly due to blowby. Some oil starvation is due to the banjo bolts, but you'll also seem failures on cars where the banjo bolt was removed but the owner didn't check their oil. I check every fillup. It takes 2 minutes. Cheap insurance.

underground000 12-24-2012 05:56 PM

good oil, regular oil changes, do the required/recommended maintenance. to me a turbo is a wear item, it spins really really fast, its a moving part. moving parts wear. you can remove the dp and check for shaft play

apart from that, give the car a good detail. wash clay polish wax and the paint should be good for a while

HAMMER DOWN 12-24-2012 10:04 PM

Good read,


laff79 12-24-2012 11:08 PM

Way to go. Buy a turbo car, THEN do research on it.

Oh and posting in this section was smart as well. Stick to the n00b forum for now and get acquainted with the search function. Good luck

JJr 12-25-2012 08:31 PM

I'm at 77k (original owner) I always smell oil after I park it in the garage. My car has never used any oil between oil changes which are every 3-3.5k w/Rotella T6 5w40.

I bought my car with very little research on turbos too! Read some great reviews and bought it. I only found this forum a year ago and have learned a lot about the car. Thank God I've always been service minded.

The mods are a tough call for a noob like myself. I'm doing my 1st mod a RSB, endlinks and mounts when the temps go up. I have planned aDP/tune but I'm on the fence now. I wish I was as knowledgeable as most of the guys on here. GL enjoy the car.

c-lo 12-26-2012 04:23 AM

215k miles with banjo filter still in. Never had a problem, never got around to taking it out either. first turbo i swapped at 98k and the spool had a little shaft play but otherwise looked good. second turbo I swapped out with just over 111k on it and had more play and wouldn't have lasted another month on my commute.

head over here:

joeleodee 12-26-2012 05:08 AM

This thread has all the information you need to increase the longevity of your vehicle.

zepplinluvr2 12-27-2012 09:41 AM

so what does DP mean? My car has 124k miles on it and just had a brand new turbo installed on it. The car is funny, because sometimes it seems like the turbo wants to just GO (most after it's been running for a while) and then sometimes it doesn't seem like it wants to. I drove a WRX before I bought this, and it seemed like it had way more boost than my car. Is there a break in period for a new turbo?? Am I going to notice a difference as it gets broken in? I don't think I smell oil anymore, it might have been burn off from the new turbo installation. So take out the banjo bolt huh? Wouldn't that allow dirty particles into the turbo? And is baby-ing a car like this a bad idea? Should I run this thing hard every once in a while? I wish I knew what to look for when it comes to engine noise. At about 2k RPM, the engine almost sounds like it's knocking, but I can't tell if it's just normal Subaru engine noise. I'm super paranoid about this car now because of the turbo, and the bad reviews I read online about these cars being problematic. I worry about getting on the gas a little too much and breaking it Somebody gives me some words of comfort!! LoL.....

famaya26 12-27-2012 09:44 AM


Originally Posted by BDII (Post 1308515)
Topic #6
Acronyms and Slang:

Often times while searching you find that members will use slang and acronyms. Here is a list of acronyms that you may find on the forum and their meanings:
Basic Terminology & Acronyms
4EAT – Four Speed Electronic Automatic Transmission
5MT – Five Speed Manual Transmission
5EAT – Five Speed Electronic Automatic Transmission (includes Sportshift)
6MT – Six Speed Manual Transmission
ABS – Anti-lock Braking System
AT – Automatic Transmission
ATF – Automatic Transmission Fluid
AutoX – Autocross
AVCS – Active Valve Control Sysem
AVLS – Active Valve Lift System
AWD – All Wheel Drive
BHP – Brake HorsePower (measured BEFORE transmission)
BOV – Blow Off Valve
CAI – Cold Air Intake
Cat – Catalytic Convertor
CEL – Check Engine Light
CF – Carbon Fiber
CO2 – Carbon Dioxide
Diff – Differential
DOHC – Dual Overhead Camshaft
EBC – Electonic Boost Controller
ECT - Electronically Controlled Transmission
ECU – Electronic Control Unit (engine control unit)
EFI – Electronic Fuel Injection
EG – Subaru 6-cylinder engines (up through mid to late 90’s)
EGT - Exhaust Gas Temp
EG33 – Subaru 3.3 litre 6-cylinder engine code (SVX)
EJ – Subaru 4-cylinder engines (early 90’s and newer)
EJ20 – Subaru 2.0 litre 4-cylinder engine code
EJ205 – Subaru 2.0 litre turbo engine (US WRX)
EJ22 – Subaru 2.2 litre 4-cylinder engine code
EJ25 – Subaru 2.5 litre 4-cylinder engine code
EJ255 – Subaru 2.5 litre turbo engine (US Forester XT, Baja Turbo)
EJ257 – Subaru 2.5 litre turbo engine (US WRX STi)
EZ – Subaru 6-cylinder engines (post EG series H6 engines)
EZ30R – Subaru 3.0 litre 6-cylinder engine code (BL/BP Legacy and new Outback)
FDR - Final Drive Ratio
FMIC – Front Mount Intercooler
FWD – Front Wheel Drive
H4 – Horizontally Opposed 4 cylinder (boxer)
H6 – Horizontally Opposed 6 cylinder
HID – High Intensity Discharge (headlights)
JDM – Japanese Domestic Market
LSD – Limited Slip Differential
MAF – Mass Air-Flow Sensor
MAP – Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor
MBC – Manual Boost Controller
MIL – Malfunction Indicator Lamp (CEL)
MT – Manual Transmission
MY – Model Year
OEM – Original Equipment Manufacturer
RallyX – Rallycross
RWD – Rear Wheel Drive
SOA – Subaru Of America
SOHC – Single Overhead Camshaft
TMIC – Top Mount Intercooler
TT – Twin Turbo
UDP – Under Drive Pulley
VDC – Vehicle Dynamic Control
VIN – Vehicle Identification Number
VTD – Variable Torque Distibution
WHP – Wheel HorsePower
WOT – Wide Open Throttle
Thanks to Uncle Meat of the Cobb Tuning

JDM (Japanese Domestic Market) Info:
Twin-Turbo: This is one of the most loosely used term. Everyone wants a twin-turbo because Japan has had it. It was a sequential setup with one turbo used for the low end, while a larger turbo was used for the high end. However, it wasn’t the most optimal solution being its cost, complexity, and between the 1st to 2nd turbo transition, there was a decent dip in power. It has been proven that other solutions are more cost-effective and produce better results in general.

More on turbo tech below.

B4: The term used for sedan since the 1998 model year.

B4 RSK: The name given to the turbocharged sport Legacy Sedan in the 1998 to 2002 model years. Remember, Japan has been even further ahead in model changes. They receive their models 2 model years (or MY) ahead of the U.S.

Note: Previous to the BE-generation B4 RSK, the sedan turbo models were called ‘RS’.

GTB: The name given to the turbocharged sport Legacy Wagon in the 1993 to 2002 model years that used the sportier Bilstein suspension.

S401: The ONLY STi production Legacy to date. This 2003 BE sedan model was produced in a short-run and were rather expensive. It contained much gear from the current year Impreza STi though mostly in drivetrain and brakes. It still retained a sequential twin-turbo setup though with a few more ponies. It also received some suspension modifications including Bilstein struts along with BBS 18x7” wheels.

Body Styles (by USDM MY):
BC (1990-1994)
BD (1995-1999)
BE (2000-2004)
BL (2005-2009)

BF (1990-1994)
BG (1995-1999)
BH (2000-2004)
BP (2005-2009)

Turbochargers for USDM models:
Mitsubishi TD04 - USDM Impreza 2.0L WRX, 2.5L WRX, Forester XT, Baja Turbo
IHI VF40 - USDM BL/BP Legacy 2.5GT, Outback XT
(All are water cooled and use a thrust bearing design, not ball-bearing.) ------- SOA abbrev.------Numeric Code
Obsidian Black Pearl ---- OBP ------------- BLK -------------- 2J
Satin White Pearl --------- SWP ----------- WHI ------------- 7J
Brilliant Silver Metallic -- BSM ------------ SIL -------------- 9D
Titanium Silver Metallic - TSM ------------ SXV -------------- 8E
Garnet Red Pearl --------- GRP ------------ RED ------------- 3J
Regal Blue Pearl --------- RBP ------------- BDR ------------- 5J
Atlantic Blue Pearl ------- ABP ------------- BLU ------------- 3A

--Additional Outback-specific Colors and Combinations
Champagne Gold Opal --- CGO ------------ GLD ------------ 9J
Willow Green Opal/
Moss Green Metallic ----- WGO? ----------- GRM ----------- U5
Brilliant Silver Metallic/
Granite Gray Opal -------- GGO? ---------- SLV ------------- K3

--Other Subie Colors (not on Leg/OB matrix)
World Rally Blue ----------- WRB ------------ ??? ------------ ??
San Remo Red ------------- SRR
Sedona Red Pearl (old) ---- SRP
Java Black Metallic -------- JBM
Solid Red ------------------- SR

7AA Legacy Sedan i MT5 2.5
7AB Legacy Sedan i 4EAT 2.5 -S
7AC Legacy Sedan i SE MT5 2.5
7AD Legacy Sedan i SE 4EAT 2.5 -S
7AE Legacy Sedan i LTD 4EAT 2.5-S
7AH Legacy Sedan 2.5GT LTD MT5
7AI Legacy Sedan 2.5GT LTD 5EAT-S
7AJ Legacy Sedan 2.5GT LTD NAVI
7AS Legacy Sedan 2.5GT Spec. B 6M
7BA Legacy Wagon i MT5 2.5
7BB Legacy Wagon i SE 4EAT 2.5 -S
7BC Legacy Wagon i LTD 4EAT 2.5-S
7BH Legacy Wagon 2.5 GT LTD 5EAT-S
7CA Outback Sedan 2.5i Limited 4EA
7CB Outback Sedan LLBean 3.0R 5EAT
7CC Outback Sedan LLBean NAVI 3.0R
7DA Outback Wagon 2.5 i Basic 5MT
7DB Outback Wagon 2.5 i Basic 4EAT
7DC Outback Wagon 2.5i 5MT
7DD Outback Wagon 2.5 i 4EAT-S
7DE Outback Wagon 2.5 i Ltd 4EAT-S
7DH Outback Wagon 2.5XT Ltd 5MT
7DI Outback Wagon 2.5XT Ltd 5EAT-
7DJ Outback Wagon 2.5XT Ltd NAVI
7DK Outback Wagon 2.5i LLBean NAVI
7DL Outback Wagon 2.5i Ltd LLBean
7DM Outback Wagon H6-3.0 R LLB 5EA
7DN Outback Wagon H6-3.0 R LLB NAV
7FA Forester X FAWD MT5 2.5
7FB Forester X FAWD 4EAT 2.5
7FC Forester X MT5 2.5 Premium Pack
7FD Forester X 4EAT 2.5 Premium Pack
7FE Forester X Cross Sports MT5
7FF Forester X Cross Sports 4EAT
7FG Forester X LL Bean 4EAT
7FH Forester Cross Sports MT5 2.5
7FI Forester Cross Sports 4EAT 2.5
7FJ Forester XT MT5 2.5 Turbo LTD
7FK Forester XT 4EAT 2.5 Turbo LTD
7JA Impreza Sedan 2.5i 5MT
7JB Impreza Sedan 2.5i 4EAT
7JC Impreza Sedan WRX TR 5MT
7JD Impreza Sedan WRX 5MT
7JE Impreza Sedan WRX Limited
7JF Impreza Sedan WRX Limited I 5M
7JG Impreza Sedan WRX Limited 4EAT
7JH Impreza Sedan WRX Limited I 4EAT
7JI STI 6MT - Alloy Wheel Gold
7JJ STI 6MT - Alloy Wheel Silver
7JK STI 6MT - Limited
7JN Impreza Sedan 2.5i SE
7JO Impreza Sedan 2.5i SE 4EAT
7LA Impreza Wagon 2.5i 5MT
7LB Impreza Wagon 2.5i 4EAT
7LC Impreza Wagon WRX 5MT
7LE Impreza Wagon WRX Limited 5MT
7LF Impreza Wagon WRX Limited I 5M
7LG Impreza Wagon WRX Limited 4EAT
7LH Impreza Wagon WRX Limited I 4EAT
7LK Impreza Outback Sport MT5 2.5
7LL Impreza Outback Sport 4EAT 2.5
7LM Impreza Outback Sport SE MT5
7LN Impreza Outback Sport SE 4EAT
7TA B9 Tribeca - 5SEAT Fabric
7TB B9 Tribeca - 5SEAT Limited- G
7TC B9 Tribeca - 5SEAT Limited - B
7TD B9 Tribeca - 5SEAT Limited/NAV- G
7TE B9 Tribeca - 5SEAT Limited/NAV- B
7TH B9 Tribeca - 7SEAT Fabric
7TI B9 Tribeca - 7SEAT Limited - G
7TJ B9 Tribeca - 7SEAT Limited - B
7TK B9 Tribeca - 7SEAT Limited/NAV- G
7TL B9 Tribeca - 7SEAT Limited/NAV- B
7TM B9 Tribeca - 7S-LTRAUD/DVD/NAV- G
7TN B9 Tribeca - 7S-LTRAUD/DVD/NAV- B

MT5: 5 speed manual
5EAT-S: 5 speed automatic with sport shift
4EAT-S: 4 speed automatic with sport shift
5EAT: 5 speed automatic
4EAT: 4 speed automatic
SE: Special Edition (base model+power driver seat+moonroof)
NAVI: Navigation System
LTD: Limited (base model+leather+power seats+moonroof+dual zone climate+upgraded stero)

Model Code Key
The codes change every model year
First Spot: The "7" USUALLY means the model year (ex; 7 = 2007).
Second Spot: The letter after the 7 denotes the body style by car (ex LEGACY Wagon is a "B" while OUTBACK wagon is a "D").
Third Spot: The last letter is actually alphanumeric. It starts with the least expensive model/trim/engine level in each different body style and goes up. It starts over at "A" with every body style.

ok... occasionally you are gonna come across acronyms/slang that you have no idea what it means...

OMG, WTF, TTIWWOP, STFU, IBTL ect ect ect ect....

Use this

Just be aware that some acronyms may not be work safe...

famaya26 12-27-2012 09:46 AM

DP = DownPipe
UP = UpPipe
TMIC = Top Mount Intercooler
FMIC = Front Mount Intercooler

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