Introducing Stage 1, 2 and 3 E-Tuning / Remote tuning maps by Cryotune Performance
1. Cryotune Performance E-Tuning
2. Tuning FAQ
3. Pretune Checklist *FAQ blends into post #3 because of length.
-Scroll down to the second and third post to read options 2. and 3.
I am offering Custom E-tuning/Remote tuning specifically for Subaru models including the 2002+ WRX, 04+ Forester XT, 04+ STI, 05-12 Legacy GT and similar OBXT models. My main objective is customer service and being safe above all else while providing a quality Tune.
I am offering Opensource and Cobb Accessport Stage1 and Stage2 and Stage 3 Stock *injectors* Performance E- tunes which will loosely follow the “staged” upgrade path for the these Subaru models. The factory ecu limits power output even at stock levels and with the proper calibration you can unlock better drivability and power without changing anything mechanically.
Stage1 E-Tune - stock with no performance modifications/stock filter or oil-less panel filter
Stage2 E-Tune - including basic upgrades- A free flowing downpipe containing a high flow catalytic converter/Catless downpipe is required. A “gutted” first cat in the downpipe is acceptable but for the best gains and smoothest boost control an aftermarket unit is suggested. Modifications such as an upgraded top mounted intercooler, electronic boost control solenoids, catless up pipes, exhaust upgrades including headers, non stock intake kits are all under this category but not required for a base tune.
Stage 3 Stock fuel E - tune - includes upgrade stock like turbo’s for the Legacy GT,Outback XT and Forester XT's *vf52,BNR16G,vf48,vf39 etc as well as all modifications listed in the stage two upgrade path.
Stage 3 Aftermarket fuel - We are now offering Stage 3 Aftermarket fueling and have been offering this service for over 3 years and have had quite a few happy customers. *AN AFTERMARKET WIDEBAND AIR/FUEL SENSOR IS REQUIRED FOR THIS TUNE*
Because the modifications start to get unique past the stage 2 level we ask that you contact us for pricing for your particular setup. That way we can not only give you a price on tuning but possibly help you decide what modification path *ie turbo/injectors/boost controller* may be best for your driving style.
Don't hesitate to contact us via pm or email with questions or for quotes
The cost of stage 1 and stage 2 calibrations cost $250.00. The Stage 3 Stock Fueling is $250.00 regardless of Opensource or Accessport tuning.
Both come with as many revisions needed to dial in a safe,powerful tune within 30 days as long as the mechanical modifications stay the same during the tuning process. Normally this is completed in 6-8 revisions
Obviously situations may come up that exceed the 30 day limit but it will be asked and somewhat expected for a timely response on both my end and the customers to stay on track. If the timeline is exceeded due to lack of effort and communication on the customer end a $50 charge will be applied to complete the process. If a lapse of 30 days between emails occurs you will forfeit your funds and it will be dealt with on a case by case basis as to what will be required to complete the process.
We are now doing the E-tune process by appointment only and a specific amount of customers at a time. We realize this may not be ideal for customers needing a tune immediately but contact must be made to see what the schedule looks like. We suggest planning your tune ahead of time to avoid issues and 2-3 weeks prior to the tune to make contact. This should be done in advance of installing the parts if possible so they can have a base map sitting in the inbox ready. We advertise an instructional email within 24 hours and a Base map within 72 hours after purchase Monday through Friday. We are closed Saturday and sunday and no emails,revisions or base maps will be answered during this time.
PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU CAN ACCESS YOUR ECU AND ALL THE SOFTWARE IS COMPATIBLE BEFORE PURCHASING THE TUNE, AFTER AN OPEN SOURCE OR COBB AP E-TUNE IS SENT OUT THERE IS NO REFUNDS FOR ANY REASON. THIS SITUATION WILL ONLY COME UP EVERY ONCE IN A GREAT WHILE BUT CAN WASTE TIME AND MONEY ON BOTH SIDES. THIS CAN COME INTO PLAY IF YOUR ECU HAS BEEN LOCKED WITH A COBB TUNE WHEN TRYING TO CONVERT TO OPENSOURCE OR IF YOUR LAPTOP HAS ISSUES WITH LOADING THE SOFTWARE/DRIVERS NEEDED. THIS IS A PRECAUTIONARY MEASURE PUT IN PLACE TO MAKE SURE EVERYTHING WILL BE ABLE TO BE LOADED/TESTED AND TUNED.
Revisions/emails will be sent out from 5pm to 10pm MST Monday through Friday. The 2-3 day “rev time” will be based off these hours. *ie: logs sent late at night will be filed first thing the next morning but will be considered the next day’s business*.
This Forum contains almost all the answers to the questions you may have so please search and Read The FAQ below . If you have any pre-tune questions please post them here rather than email me, that way others may learn from your questions and it may get added to the FAQ below. Any Post-tune questions should be emailed *NOT PERSONAL MESSAGED* directly to me and that is the preferred method of communication rather than cluttering up the this thread since those will be more specific questions to your particular application/mods/etc.
Contact me with a list of your modifications, vehicle year, model and any questions.
Set up an appointment for better drivability and refined power today!
*DO NOT SEND PAYMENT WITHOUT MAKING CONTACT FIRST, I accept paypal for business transactions*
Dave @ Cryotune Performance
Email : CryotunePerformance@yahoo.com
I wanted to make a FAQ related to pre-tune/post tune questions to help everyone out and obviously reduce the amount of emails needed to be answered which would allow me more time to work on what is important, YOUR TUNES! My theory is by taking the time to write this I will allow you to be more prepared when it comes to making the most out of your e-tune. I will try and update this as needed since it is always the same questions that are being asked.
Always plan your setup and determine your goals before purchasing parts *ie how much power do I want to make? How fast do I want to go? What will I be doing with the car drag, autocross, mountain carving daily driver, driving to the moon….Just making sure you were paying attention because this is the most often overlooked aspect when people begin throwing money at a car. They end up buying parts twice or more until they are happy with the overall performance and response, always remember power is not everything.
A Stage 1 tune will normally clean up some of the drivability issues in all model years as well as pick up smoother and quicker acceleration. The torque increase is more noticable than the overall hp increase but generally makes the car funner and more responsive. Some say a stage 1 tune makes the car run as it should of from the factory but nothing crazy. This will be the #1 hp to $ modification.
A Stage 2 tune moves forward and actually creates a decent amount more torque than stock and wakes up the car on the top end in the higher rpms as well. Most people are very impressed at the difference a stage 2 tune can make when compiled with the right modifications. A lot of people feel stage 2 power is all they will need in their modification quest for a strong daily driver.
1. A new panel filter normally will not require a tune as the ecu has enough adjustment to play with to compensate. Keep in mind any oiled filter like the K&N may cause issues by getting oil on the mass air flow sensor itself and require cleaning every once in a while after a recharge.
2. An Intake kit WILL require a tune designed for it regardless of Brand for the LGT/OBXT
3. Removing the Snorkel in the fender well will not increase performance and it should be left alone if using the stock intake box
Top Mounted and Front Mounted Intercoolers
1. A change to a larger TMIC from stock or from aftermarket to more efficient may or may not require a tune based on logs. A change from a stock TMIC to a FMIC may or may not require a tune based on logs. The one thing that can be said is to get the most out of the modifications you invest in it must be tuned for and every car will respond different. A Front mounted intercooler will not necessarily perform better for all situations and should be researched to see if it’s a benefit for your particular setup.
2. Most times a FMIC with a proper tune will result in a very small difference in turbo spool up but will be felt more in between shifts as the turbo has to build pressure in more piping. It happens very quickly but there is a delay over the same TMIC setup.
1. There is really no difference between power output of downpipes regardless of brand or style *ie divorced, open bellmouth, Vishnu tubular wg style etc* They all perform the same operation.
2. Gutted stock downpipes work but do not address the issue with a wall right in front of the wg flapper and the difference can seen when comparing the stock piece to an aftermarket unit.
3. Catted and Un-catted downpipes do not really produce much of a difference in power output and for most comes down to cost and local emissions laws
4. The factory catback exhaust is not considered a restriction until around 300+hp but an aftermarket unit does allow for more flow which is generally considered better plus many like the added sound benefit.
5. 2005-2006 LGT/OBXT models DID come with the catted up pipe,2007+ did not.
1. Plan your injector size based on your ultimate goals, If your upgrading injectors your probably upgrading the turbo, will you want E85 in the future or are you someone who normally upgrades to the next step often? Normally anything lower than 1000cc is pretty easy to control when tuning but if you have no plans of going bigger than a 16g on gas then 740’s are probably a better option, don’t go bigger than you need to. Don’t try and re invent the wheel and research what others with the same setup you are planning are running.
Blow off valves/by pass valves –
The Factory by pass valve is very capable of stage 1 and stage 2 levels and rarely presents any mechanical failures. After 18psi some have showed signs of leaking where as others have held 22-23psi daily for years with no signs of failure. Most wait untill they fail to replace them and is good practice in my opinion. There are a few aftermarket units that perform like stock and are of much better design so those can be great replacements if your stock unit does fail. Normally “tuning” the bpv/bov consists of adjustment of different springs for pressure.
Boost Controllers –
The most common question is if a manual boost controller will work on these cars. With the exception of a hybrid type system including the stock or aftermarket Electronic boost control this is not a recommended method because it disables all of the factory control for changes *temp,atm,etc.* The most common boost controller used on the Legacy gt’s is a 3 port electronic boost controller that can be used by the ecu to control boost. There are a few great options on the market but some are cheaper at the expense of not plugging into the factory harness. I can personally say using the stock boost control system up to stage 2 is more than adequate. If the turbo is upgraded I recommend upgrading to a 3 port EBCS to achieve and hold higher boost thresholds as well as have more control but will not overcome the short falls of a turbo falling off in power *ie vf40/46 in higher rpms*.
Software Needed for Tuning/Logging your subaru
Here are some helpful links to the software needed for the E-tune process
All software is linked to the website of origin out of the respect for the creators and operators. Please do not host any of these programs on your own site but link it to the people that deserve the credit.
Romraider.com - A Free opensource program used to view and modify the factory subaru ecu. Many tables can be modified including timing,afr,boost response,delays,limiters etc all while keeping all the factory failsafes and drivability. This program also has the logger mentioned and can be used to monitor MANY perameters in the ECU like Maf voltage,knocksum,KFBC,STFT,LTFT,RPM,TPS,Turbo dynamics etc. This program was made by guys in their spare time as enthusiests and deserve all the credit in the world. *you must download current definitions for the logger and romraider before you can view any roms*
The definitions for Romraider, The logger and ECUflash are all different and all must be installed. The instructions on where to put these downloads are included in the links as well.
ECU DEF’s - http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=360
Logger Def’s - http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1642
ECU Flash – Def’s - http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=3808
Learning view - This program was also written by the opensource guru's and is an amazing tool to pull a snapshot from your ecu to see how everything is performing. This program will show you a screen shot with your current Ignition Advance Multiplier,Long term fuel trims,knock learning being perfomed by the ecu in a grid format and any pending CEL's. This action takes about 20-30 seconds and gives you the option of resetting the ecu as well.
Tactrix.com - This is the place you will have to purchase the "cable" to read/write/flash or log your subaru. The openport2.0 is the only option for 2007+ subarus but 2006 and prior have the option of buying the tactrix cable 1.3 for less money or some have luck with a vag-com cable available cheap off ebay. The vag com can be frustrating to get working but once its working its good most times. The 1.3 cable will have to be purchased used as tactrix no longer sells it.
ECUflash *download free from tactrix.com* - This program is used to "pull/flash" your ecu "rom" and save it to your laptop. MAKE SURE AND SAVE YOUR STOCK ROM IN A SAFE PLACE AND MAKE A COPY OF IT IN A DIFFERENT FILE. USE THE COPY TO VIEW/MAKE CHANGES TO. NEVER MODIFY YOUR ORIGINAL COPY OF YOUR STOCK ROM. Ecuflash has a built in rom editor but most people use ecu flash to pull the rom then they use romraider to view and edit the rom because of a few added features and romraiders specific design to subaru.
Cobb AccessTunerRace software - Cobb released the street tuner software a while back and then re-released the Accesstuner Race software after that. The accesstunerrace software is a FREE download for anyone who legally purchased a Cobb Accessport V2 and just has to be requested from cobb. The handheld accessport can log and show many perameters now but has to be downloaded to a pc to view the logs. The handheld unit also cannot make any major tuning changes *although it can make small idle and timing adjustments* The accesstunerrace software can be used to fully tune the ecu in the same way the opensource software can but just lays it out in a little different format. The ATR software also allows you to log,veiw live custom defined gauges, and has a map tracer that shows you what cell of what grid you are currently in at any given time on any given map.
Both romraider/ecuflash and the ATR software can be used to tune a vehicle to the same performance potential. The one major difference between opensource and the ATR software is the realtime tuning/tracing and being able to store multiple maps whether off the shelf maps or custom tuned maps on the handheld accessport. The realtime tuning can cut out much of the time needed for tuning certain tables during a road tune and allows the operator the ease of not resetting the ecu each time he wants to make changes to afr/timing/boost to see the outcome as well as not resetting all the ecu's learned parameters.
Both Romraider and ATR allow you to tune your vehicle to run great or horrible. If you dont know what your doing you WILL do more damage than good and it takes a lot of research and testing/logging to make accurate decisions on what changes need to be made.....log,log,research,log,log,research
A Learning view will need to be sent to me before a base map will be sent out if using Opensource. Please make sure you are familer with this process.
Air / Fuel Ratio's and you
Here are some helpful details related to AFR, Lambda, Wideband 02 sensors, Narrowband 02 sensors and such. Please provide opinions,experiences etc.
Air Fuel Ratio is a very commonly misunderstood concept and I didnt see anything like this posted so figured I would see if its helpful.
As simple as it sounds it is the amount of air to fuel ratio you are seeing inside/come out of the engine at any given point of time. This is measured from the factory 02 sensors all the time and the signal is then sent back to the ecu for processing. The 02 sensors are what are used to send the ecu signals to determine short term and long term fuel trims. The computer trys its best to stay at a preset AFR *air fuel ratio* to conserve gasoline during cruise and idle situations *light load*. This targeted afr is 14.7 for gasoline although with the 10% ethanol content in current gasolines the "total burn effect" occurs at a slightly richer mixture according to what some believe. This cruise and idle situation is called closed loop and is a process used to keep the vehicle constantly in the most effective range for emissions. The factory 02 sensors are called "wideband" sensors because of thier output capability but unfortunatly in terms of reading output at full throttle they are actually quite useless for a few reasons including the pressures created in the manifolds. They are designed to be very accurate within about 1.5AFR around idle and cruise situations *ie 13.5-16 afr*. Most Subaru 02 sensor readings from the computer peg at 11.XX since thats as rich as it will read regardless or true afr. It should be noted that the fuel mixture can actually be leaner than 11.XX and the factory sensor may still read 11.XX because of its lack of ability to produce true afr numbers that far away from stoich. *example: Factory sensor reads 11.14 when true wideband reading may read 11.3-11.6.*
It should also be noted that subaru targets richer idleing mixtures for different situations so its not uncommon to see swings from 14.2-14.7.
Well enough about closed loop fueling lets talk about open loop and wide open throttle afr. Openloop is a term used for when the computer stops making adjustments based on the stock 02 sensor readings and starts referering only to the primary openloop fueling table *+compensations*. Openloop basically occurs when your putting your foot in it in simple terms, the thing to note is there is a "delay" in the changeover between closed and open loop and can cause fueling issues for a modified car without changes in the tune to accomidate things like quicker spoolup and earlier peak boost/torque.
AFR is a term used as a ratio but changes depending on fuel being used. Because of this most tuners use a term called Lambda instead. Lambda is when all of the "fuel" in the cylinder has been burned and used as energy or for cooling causing a complete burn and nothing left in the cylinder. The biggest benifit with using lambda instead of afr is different fuels burn at different rates and will need different afr targets to acheive that perfect burn while lambda remains the same targets regardless of fuel. Although lambda is what I reference more I will base my details and explanations on AFR in this write up. Lambda is an easy conversion once you understand afr.
First off there is NO perfect afr or lambda to set and forget for any car, each car will want a little different afr but for the most part you dont have to reinvent the wheel. This is where doing a lot of research about your vehicle and what others have done come into play. Nothing will replace a dyno when truly calibrating afr or timing but knowing your "safe zone" can be extreamly helpful until your trying to wring out every last hp. AFR really doesnt change hp levels all that much when dialed in closley and comes down to safety more than anything else. The rule of thumb is to always start off rich because its a lot harder to hurt things quickly with an overly rich mixture although its very possible. Fuel is used to make power but at the same time is just as important in cooling the cylinder temps and keeping pre ignition and knock at bay. Thats the tricky part to finding an optimum AFR, rich best torque is key but many cars like a much richer mixture and would have a serious issue running that lean under all situations. Most subaru maps are set from the factory at a 12ish afr at the onset of boost tapering down to 10.3-10.5 which is safe but on the rich side during peak torque and high rpm on thier turbo motors. There are different theory's to making power with afr and as a personal opinion I feel power should never be made with lean mixtures but overly rich mixtures can be just as much of a power robber and must be leaned out to provide smooth power delivery. A overly rich mixture can feel sluggish and non responsive while a lean mixture can feel great but can easliy cause more damage. Contrary to the old saying "lean is mean" power actually starts to fall off on either side of rich best torque and lean best torque. Its a happy medium.
On to the Tools and Equiptment
Wideband 02 sensors used to be extremly expensive and were not an option for anyone other than high end shops and tuners. Now there are quite a few options that offer different formats to work with. The biggest thing to keep in mind is you have to be able to trust your equiptment so if you decide to buy used or cheap it may come back to bite you. Many times I have seen people try and save money on widebands and cost them motors or tons of time chasing thier tails tuning because of improperly working equiptment. Look at the features and benifits of each Wideband 02 kit and choose which ever suits your needs best. I chose the Zeitronix Datalogging software and am very happy with it. Most units work with romraider and Accesstuner Race now days. Something to note is the further away from the engine the Wideband 02 sensor is mounted the more of a "delay" you have to account for in your data. Some standalones will allow you to configure that but always something to keep in mind. If mounted behind a catylitic converter expect to see leaner values as well.
LC1 Wideband 02 sensor- One of the most common options for people right now, Bosch sensor, logworks software and cheap guage options as well.
Zeitronix wideband datalogger - Somewhat expensive but nice software,lots of options for display guages, Same bosch sensor
AEM wideband - works with guage but not actually sure if it has software availible. Never seen it advertised and only seen it used with AEMpro
PLX devices - works with guages, series of sensors or standalones. decent reviews as well. Make sure to purchase the usb adapter if you plan on logging to a laptop
These are a few of the name brand options but do research to see which will work best for what you are looking for. AFR should ALWAYS start at lambda *14.7 or 1.0* and steadily drop to your target afr in the primary openloop fueling table as long as the CL - OL settings have been tripped. Any bumps,divits or deviation from the target show changes might need to be applied to the scaling.
any questions,comments or opinions are more than welcome. Just figured I would try and post a little helpful information.
This will keep getting updated but this is a start.
Thanks and hope this helps out
~Continued from above- ran out of room~
Ignition Spark Timing and You!
This write up will be based on ignition timing. Its goal will be to be as simple as possible while explaining a pretty in depth subject. At no point is this offering tuning advice but just basing one opinion. Use at your own risk;)
The goal will be for people to understand what influence ignition timing has on the engines ability to USE all the air and fuel in the cylinder without creating un-needed stress on the rotating assembly.
First thing to mention is the "explosion" inside the cylinder is anything but an explosion. It is a controlled burn designed to ignite the air and fuel at the optimum "Time" before top dead center (BTDC) to push the piston back down after top dead center in the power stroke *in degrees*. This also makes the controlled burn work its best at the ideal time and rod angle to seamlessly push the crank around.
The amount of acceptable Timing is directly effected by the octane of fuel being used, cylinder size, compression ratio etc but we will limit it to fuel type for this conversation. Fuel can be considered as*91,93*,100,C16,Meth,E85 etc* for this writeup. The reason for this is the amount of resistance the fuel being used can help to curb knock because of thier properties.
The purpose is to build up as much pressure as possible safely and then ignite it at the ideal time keeping in mind it takes a very small amount of time for the spark plug to fire, ignite the mixture and create the flame front across the cylinder before combustion. All of that takes time so you must anticipate it BTDC to have everything happening by the needed angle after top dead center.
The Main benefit to higher octane fuels is their ability to cool the cylinder and slow the flame front which allows more time to safely build pressure in the cylinder. This in turn allows you to make more power safely with timing advance as long as hard parts and supporting modifications are present. *obviously given a proper afr as well*
Detonation is the killer of engines. Detonation is also referred to as knock, pre ignition, pinging, etc. The audible sound of knock is like bb's in a can but if your hearing this sound the damage may already be done. Its not a good method to tune newer modern cars till you "hear" knock. Detonation can be caused by too much timing advance or too little fuel or both. A pre ignition event can be caused by a few things but the end result is a uncontrolled combustion which reaches much higher pressures and can put quite a bit of stress on the crankshaft and rotating assembly. The worst part is this event is not at the optimum rod angle. Imagine trying to press down the pedal of a bike with all your might when its strait up and down rather then at a slight angle, much harder and rougher on the bearings. A controlled burn creates standard operating pressures in the cylinder where as a pre ignition event caused by pressure *ideal gas law* or a glowing ember on a plug can ignite the mixture at the wrong time without spark creating a huge pressure spike and shock that will easily tear up a motor.
Alternate fuel sources like discussed above can help in this fight by pushing the knock limit a little further or a lot further depending on what it is and what the setup is. At that point you are no longer knock limited and must take caution because the efficiency of the engine/turbo etc will normally fall off before you see any signs of detonation. The goal is to keep timing in line to react to engine load. Timing will normally reduce as load increases and increase with rpm. The reason for this is engine efficiency and the rapid pace of which things are happening as rpms increase. Ideal timing for each car is different even with the same modifications.
The goal is to run the least amount of timing to make the most amount of power consistently and safely.
The first thing to note is a tune will NOT fix any mechanical issues. Mechanical issues should be addressed before any tuning as it will result in extra time spent just to realize the tune cannot be completed without further work being done to the vehicle. If you have any reason to suspect a mechanical issue DO NOT GO FORWARD WITH TUNING before resolving the issue.
1. The quality and level of oil should be checked. If you are near your next oil change service interval you might consider changing it as The tuning process will push the engine harder than daily driving and its cheap insurance.
2. The quality and level of coolant should be checked and addressed as needed.
3. If any fuel components were replaced/upgraded a check should be made to make sure there are NO leaks and everything is seated correctly *ie fuel pump in basket tightly, injectors seated in rail etc*
4. No oil or coolant leaks present.
5. Tires in good condition and not showing cords
6. Depending on how many miles on the car you may think about replacing the spark plugs before the tuning process.
7. Clean your MAF sensor with MAF sensor cleaner.
8. The MOST common issue with these specific cars after any modifications seems to be intake/charge pipe leaks. A pressure test should be performed without question for any setup changed to a FMIC although a simple pressure test/smoke test can eliminate even simple leaks on a TMIC system as well. * a hint for pressure testing is to have a 2ft piece of hose to put up to your ear while the system is pressurized, This allows you to trace all vacuum lines and connections with the other end and actually use this as a stethascope of sorts since a small leak will be VERY LOUD when found this way. It also allows you to get to problem areas like the throttle body coupler. The other thing to have is a spray bottle with a small amount of soap and water to spray on all connections*
These are two diagrams of the basic vacuum system on the LGT/OBXT. I say basic because this follows the 05/06 model but is very similar on 07-09 as well. Thanks goes to Boostin for the diagrams. I may snap actual pics in the future and label EVERYTHING but this will work for now.
This is the Fuel and emission vac diagram
and this is the Turbo,BPV,etc diagram
These are just a start and hope they are helpful to some, again thanks go to Boostin for the diagrams. I have found the throttle body coupler seems to be the most common source of an overlooked leak. I normally suggest looking over every hose for condition *keep in mind 05/06 models now have vac hoses over 7 years old* and ziptie or hose clamp any vac line you have access to for added insurance.
Will be contacting you when I make the switch from a front mount back to a top mount.
hows your skills at tuning jdm legacy's with dual AVCS?
Do you have scaling for various aftermarket intakes, specifically AEM?
Legacy dan - I have tuned sti's with dual avcs but have yet to play with any jdm legacys at this point but am looking forward to it. Variable valve timing whether avcs,vanos,vtec,vvt-ie all work along the same lines to take advantage of the optimum cam/valve timing.
Scoobiedoobie- i have scaling for various intakes but they always need to be scaled to the specific car as i have seen variences between the same scaling on two different cars with the same intake so i use them as a startng point.
I'll be in touch about etune after i get my fueling mods in and see what you can do with it maybe!
bump for good guy and a tuner who will keep in contact with you through the process
Dave, glad to see that you are pulling the trigger on this.
My stage 2 wagon is e-tuned by Dave. He was responsive and knowledgeable throughout the process and I'm confident that the tune is safe and reliable. You'll get detailed and timely responses from him throughout the process--while it will change I'm sure as the workload increases, I had revisions back in my inbox within a couple hours on occasion :eek:
I'd recommend Dave to anyone who needs a stage 1/2 tune for the LGT. He continues to provide support for my car when needed and I've been very pleased with the overall result of my tune.
Best of luck, sir!
Congrats Dave and welcome to the LGT.com vendor arena. Looking forward to hearing great things about your service.
Thanks to others for their comments, word of mouth positive reviews are the best advertisement hands down. :)
SBT - thanks, i just want to live up to the expectations of my customer base and help a community that *imo* is one of the best online communities i have had a chance to be part of.
Subscribed. PM sent on a request for info for my next tune. Looking forward to it.
Bump for a great tuner. When I was learning to self tune, Dave provided me with lots of assistance. He was always quick to respond and he would be on the top of my list for an e-tune.
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