trying to keep my "new" first gen going
Hey guys I’m excited to finally make a post, I created an account but the admin didn’t activate it forever.
Bought a 93 legacy 4wd with 266,000 miles on it
So far I have replaced the fuel and air filter, done a radiator flush and bought a new cap, and paid for a full tranny flush. I’m going to be replacing the front right axel today (clicks on turns) does anyone have any advice on items that I should be replace to really prolong the life of this car? The belt and water pump was changed with in the last 5000 miles (or so I was told)
I have not yet looked at my fluid in the differentials
All maintenance aside........ Does anyone know where I can get a nice brush-guard for a first generation legacy? Do they even make them? I want one with skid plate on the bottom
The engine, trans, diffs haha
Well, I'd go through and replace any leaking
seals on the engine, transmission or diffs. Then
I'd do new fluids for the brakes and diffs. Make
sure your steering rack boots aren't ripped and
if they are, clean the areas, regrease and replace
the boots. If it's an auto and they didnt replace the
trans filter when they flushed it I'd drop the transmission
pan, save the fluid, replace the filter, clean the magnet
and refill it with trans fluid. Check the brake pads to make
sure the calipers are working with pretty close to even
pressure on both sides and make sure the boots on the
pistons on the calipers are intact. I'd check ball joints and
outer tie rod ends to make sure they are in decent shape.
You can bounce the car and see if the struts are ok. With
that many miles they've probably been replaced before so
you're probably good there.
I'm sure someone else will chime in with more stuff, but that's
what I can think of off of the top of my head.
Unfortunately all brush guards are custom :/ There is a "skid
plate" you can get from the early 90's Subaru GL that I believe
will bolt right up, but as I haven't seen any on these cars and
have only heard about the skid plate I cant verify that, but I've
been looking for one myself.
problems at the beach
so my 93 legacy had the entire bottom seam of my radiator give out ( radiator flush was to strong?) this happened at the beach in tilllamook oregon, and evey autoshop said it would take them a week to fix. so i got a ride back to Portland, bought a new radiator ($109.00) and im going to go install it today myself and drive it back.
has anyone ever had the bottom seam give out on a radiator? any idea what would cause this?
how hard is that radiator to swap out, ill be doing it in a parking lot.
It's a piece of cake to swap out. Disconnect the two fan harness plugs, remove the bolts holding it on the top, disconnect the upper and lower hoses, and it comes right out.
When you are filling up the new radiator remove the air vent on the passenger side of it (looks like a black plastic screw head), remove the radiator cap, pour in the coolant slowly (helps if you have a long neck funnel), and fill up the reserve tank. Squeeze the upper and lower hoses to help get air out. Put the vent plug and cap back on, run the car for a few minutes and add more coolant if necessary. You can jack up the front end of your car as well to make it the high point in the system which can help.
Don't freak out if your temp gauge shoots way up. It just means you still have some air in your system. Burp it again until the problem goes away. Don't take the rad cap off if the coolant is still hot, of course.
Radiator swapped thanks guys
So the swap went well and I completed it in a shilo inn parking lot. I did not realize that my transmission cools itself using the radiator and I had to buy some zip ties to replace the old ones from the swap (should I get hose clamps?)
My question is did I lose a lot of tyranny fluid in the radiator? I jacked the front end up when I did the swap so virtually no fluid spilled from the hoses but I wasn’t sure about how much tranny fluid the radiator holds itself.
i think hose clamps are a good idea,
start the car let the trans fluid circulate and then just check the fluid levels.
for radiator install make sure all the air is out of the system, let the car run a while and re-check coolant levels
Transmission fluid in the coolant radiator? I don't think that there is any. However, the 4EAT trans has it's own radiator so as far as I know you won't lose any trans fluid when you swap out the coolant radiator. Do you have an AT of 5MT?
edit: I re read your post. I guess you meant you also swapped out your trans radiator hoses? I bet zip ties would be a good temp fix, but not the best way to go.
monkey: the above image is my radiator. the two hoses on the left hook up to my tranny. i put hose clamps on today.
image doesnt work for me, think you have to post through LGT
radiator tranny fluid
i think this time the pic will work, i added it as an attachment
the two 1/4 tubes on the left side run to the transmission
Might as well replace the ignition coil if you find yourself with an extra $120 or so. A flat-terminal MSD coilpack from an Eagle Talon can be made to work very easily and gives you hotter spark for the same price as a stock replacement.
Tires, brakes, struts, strut tophats, sway bar bushings, sway bar endlinks, tie rod ends, u-joints (If AWD), and anything else that's rubber in the driveline or suspension. Be selective. This car has the potential to bankrupt you if you let it.
Best part about these cars is that if you have a friend to tow you when you break down you can just let the timing belt go until it breaks. Unless the motor's revvin' 7K RPM when it snaps you won't bend any valves or punch any pistons. You still break down just the same but at least you don't have to second guess the last owners too much on their maintenance history.
so i huge headache could have been saved if i just simply replaced the tubes going from the transmission to the radiator. one burst on me yesterday while i was driving and didnt know. it was like a murder scene, and there is a clear line in the road for over a mile. ( ill try and get a picture)
i didnt even know anything was wrong until it slipped and started rolling backward at the end of my street.
i dont know how much fluid i lost but i cant even get a reading on the dip stick. luckily the dip/fill tube is super easy to access :(
update: i recommend these hoses be changed right away im lucky my car didnt break down i had to replace 6 of they 8.8 quarts needed
went to a local brake shop for a $88 brake job. was later quoted at over 1500. :lol:
how hard is it going to be on a scale of 1-10 to change my front and rear calipers and rotors.
im going to buy "fully loaded" calipers( includes hardware and pads) and new rotors from napa for $360
just wanted to ask people how bad its going to be.
plan is to just fallow the repair manual .
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