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-   -   Coilovers for Outback (http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=181286)

Sublimejoe 03-06-2012 08:51 AM

Coilovers for Outback
 
I am about to pull the trigger on some coilovers for my car. My question is, do I order Legacy coilovers or Outback specific ones?

My gut instinct tells me to buy Legacy ones because my car is already on Legacy suspension, but can someone just give me a touch of a push? It seems to me that if I put Legacy specific coilovers on I would be able to go lower than I would with Outback ones.

BAC5.2 03-06-2012 08:53 AM

Outback coilovers if you want to stay high.

Legacy coilovers if you want to go low.

scoobyscoodle 03-07-2012 01:26 AM

+1

Might as well get lgt coils since you're already on lgt struts, assuming you want to stay at a similar height.

ssbtech 03-08-2012 01:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sublimejoe (Post 3781405)
I am about to pull the trigger on some coilovers for my car. My question is, do I order Legacy coilovers or Outback specific ones?

My gut instinct tells me to buy Legacy ones because my car is already on Legacy suspension, but can someone just give me a touch of a push? It seems to me that if I put Legacy specific coilovers on I would be able to go lower than I would with Outback ones.

I don't know of any Legacy coilovers that keep the car at stock height, so any Legacy coilovers will really lower the Outback.

If you want it to look like the suspension has collapsed, then this is the route to go. If you want to keep the stock height or drop it an inch or two, then the Outback coilovers is a better bet.

IMO, a stock Outback looks raised. An Outback on Outback coilovers dropped by an inch or so looks much better. An Outback on anything made for the Legacy usually ends up looking like something went horribly wrong.

BAC5.2 03-08-2012 03:50 AM

All Legacy coilovers can keep a Legacy at stock height.

We understand your dislike of low Outbacks, but that doesn't help the question or change the opinion of the OP.

Sublimejoe 03-08-2012 05:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ssbtech (Post 3784809)
I don't know of any Legacy coilovers that keep the car at stock height, so any Legacy coilovers will really lower the Outback.

If you want it to look like the suspension has collapsed, then this is the route to go. If you want to keep the stock height or drop it an inch or two, then the Outback coilovers is a better bet.

IMO, a stock Outback looks raised. An Outback on Outback coilovers dropped by an inch or so looks much better. An Outback on anything made for the Legacy usually ends up looking like something went horribly wrong.

You do understand my car is already lowered nearly three inches right? Not only that but my car is already on Legacy suspension, nothing looks to have gone horribly wrong here...

scoobyscoodle 03-08-2012 09:43 AM

My suspension looks pretty correct to me also.

ssbtech 03-08-2012 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BAC5.2 (Post 3784853)
All Legacy coilovers can keep a Legacy at stock height.

We understand your dislike of low Outbacks, but that doesn't help the question or change the opinion of the OP.

I don't dislike low Outbacks, I dislike Outbacks that are approaching "slammed". For the record I also dislike stock Outback height.


Quote:

Originally Posted by Sublimejoe (Post 3784937)
You do understand my car is already lowered nearly three inches right? Not only that but my car is already on Legacy suspension, nothing looks to have gone horribly wrong here...

I already said I liked the look of your car. What I don't like is how you've corrected the things I find displeasing on a lowered Outback - wheels with the wrong offset reduce the "turtle shell" look but can't be good for the bearings. If you kept the stock wheels, it would indeed look like something went wrong.

It would look better if the rear wheels didn't move forward as well, but that's just how the suspension aligns when the back is lowered. Not your fault that the wheel is off-centered in the well.

scoobyscoodle 03-08-2012 01:11 PM

If you take the spacers out and get the shorter rear trailing arm mounts from the lgt, presto, centered wheel in the well again. More work though.

Sublimejoe 03-08-2012 01:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scoobyscoodle (Post 3785724)
If you take the spacers out and get the shorter rear trailing arm mounts from the lgt, presto, centered wheel in the well again. More work though.

Really? I was going to purchase the Whiteline LCA's to take care of that. Thoughts?

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_...sans_vehicle=1

BAC5.2 03-08-2012 02:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scoobyscoodle (Post 3785724)
If you take the spacers out and get the shorter rear trailing arm mounts from the lgt, presto, centered wheel in the well again. More work though.

You flipped the spacers, right? Put them under the xmember and used the OB bolts?

I also think the upper rear link is different on the LGT, right?

Did you pull the spacers out of the front, too?

Sublimejoe 03-08-2012 02:34 PM

^ Interested in this as well. I still have the spacers on mine.

scoobyscoodle 03-08-2012 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sublimejoe (Post 3785788)
Really? I was going to purchase the Whiteline LCA's to take care of that. Thoughts?

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_...sans_vehicle=1

I have the WL LCA set and they're great, but don't really solve any of the above issues. They DO allow you to get pretty much ANY camber/toe setting you desire at any ride height, and I also notice they are much stiffer. The price is a little high, but worth it IMO, if you already have a good amount of suspension work done.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BAC5.2 (Post 3785835)
You flipped the spacers, right? Put them under the xmember and used the OB bolts?

I also think the upper rear link is different on the LGT, right?

Did you pull the spacers out of the front, too?

When I was first messing around with it I flipped the front pair (front of rear xmember) and removed the rear pair with shorter lgt bolts, because my avo rsb reinforcements wouldn't allow me to flip the rear.

Then I went ahead and removed the front pair but needed shorter bolts, new lgt trailing arm mount reinforcements (the J shaped brackets), and new lgt trailing arm mounts (the bracket the front of the trailing arm bolts to). This takes care of the rear and moves the wheel in the well where the lgt would be, because now the trailing arm is more parallel with the ground, as opposed to lower in the front like => / (if viewed from driver side)

I have not touched the front yet because I don't think it would make as big of a difference, but you need to remove the spacers between the front subframe and body, with shorter bolts; the spacers at the LCA rear bushing, and shorter studs there also; as well as a shorter UV joint for the steering rack which is lgt specific.

I know there are also differences with trans xmembers and driveshafts but I changed none of that, and have zero driveline vibration or any issues there.

BAC5.2 03-09-2012 03:24 AM

Do you have any issues hitting the bump stop in the rear after removing the spacers? I believe that upper rear control arm has a different PN for the LGT and OBXT.

YourConfused 03-09-2012 04:31 AM

Don't suppose you guys could throw up a pic of all these spacers and bolts you are referring too. This thread has gotten me curious as my non centered rear wheels annoy the crap out of me. Thanks


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