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Swagons Build Thread
since this car in no longer i figure i would put up what it ended with.
Mod list: engine: stock longblock uel headers erg delete iacv delete ms2 standalone perrin v1 fuel rails 650cc dw injectors light weight pulleys short ram with cone drivetrain 2000-2002 jdm 4.44 from a RA act heavyduty pressure plate act 6 puck unsprung clutch disk stock 2002 flywheel 2004 pedal asembles 4.44 open rear diff with soild mounts sti transmission mount stock short shifter from the ra interiors be stripped remaining parts front seat door cards power windows dash/no airbags ebay 6 bolt steering wheel exterior silver black plastic dipped hood and rackless roof stock snowflakes with powder coat and nitto performance snow tires jdm blacked out and cleared headlights with 5000k hids for highbeams and angry eyes around the projectors from lightwerks. suspension 25mm adjustable swaybar with soild endlinks front tower brace http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/11/24/ajeze2uj.jpg |
and im stuck at the head bolts. damn things are on there. and my crappy tools are just breaking.
what order should i remove the bolts in? and how do you get the crank gear off? that wedge aint just sliding out? |
Got a good 1/2inch drive 12point socket and broke them right loose.. front>rear>center (bottom first i believe.) thats the reverse order
and is it true that these bolts, when reinstalled have to be angled a certain way? |
What do you mean that they have to be angled a certain way? They go in straight...can't really be angled
Here are torque instructions. | C A F | | E B D | ----- 1) Install the cylinder head and gaskets on cylinder block. CAUTION: • Replace cylinder head gaskets with new ones. • Be careful not to scratch the mating surface of cylinder block and cylinder head. 2) Tighten the cylinder head bolts. (1) Apply a coat of engine oil to the washers and bolt threads. (2) Tighten all bolts to 29 N·m (3.0 kgf-m, 22 ftlb) in alphabetical sequence. (3) Tighten all bolts to 69 N·m (7.0 kgf-m, 51 ftlb) in alphabetical sequence. (4) Back off all bolts in reverse order of assembly by 180° first; back them off by 180° again. (5) Tighten bolts A and B to 34 Nm and bolts C-D to 15 Nm (6) Tighten all bolts by 90° (7) Tighten all bolts a further 90° CAUTION: Do not tighten bolts more than 90° in total angle |
so in that chart of bolt order is c or f the timing side?
and whne removing them does it matter the order? i just backed them all out about 180, then another 180, then the rest. |
F&D would be the front of the engine (timing side). That diagram is as if you're looking right at the head as its mounted on the engine
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ok thanks, what should i remove or add to the machine shop list.
valve job(wanna look at them first. can i buy or make a valve spring compressor?) Hot tank items like, block, heads, head cover, water pipe. intake mani. check crank shaft journals and mains. maybe have the crank chamfered hone, and if needed bore out to 100mm anything less or more? |
just take the complete head to the machine shop. Have them port/polish and put oversized valves into it...but leave all of that for the machine shop to do.
all of the block work, let the machine shop do. idk how much you will be able to bore it since its open deck. Isn't stock bore 93mm? Taking 7mm off of the metal might be a little too much. the main journals are likely fine, but the machine shop will be able to take care of them for you if they are not. |
stock bore is 99.5
and the over size vavles... thats money, i may or may not have. the porting i like, and sweet. they can take the heads apart and ill give them new valve seals or they just got there own? ill ask oem valve seals are fine right? miles well have them tap the passengers head for oil lines too while they have them. and the shortblock.. you mean just bring the whole them to them? the only things im reusing are the block halves and crank so ill take that apart....plus i wanna just because ill be putting it together. and again about the over size valves. you mean like 1mm plus and cloverleaf the camber? what that gonna run me. |
valve job 250 with clean
block hone/bore 75 plus 35 for clean check crank journals and chamfer oil holes, plus polish 40-50 thats napa prices so like 400 roughly is that good? didnt ask about these over size valves porting |
your gonna bore it out??
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What head bolts are you gonna use?
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im not gonna bore bore it. more just insure that i got good walls and go from 99.5 to 100
and head bolts... hmm. i probably should get new ones. progress. https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net...42125686_n.jpg https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net...09786390_n.jpg https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net...69214047_n.jpg https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net...31308186_n.jpg and this one stud bore was very very intruded https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net...36487194_n.jpg https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net...07713818_n.jpg |
going from 99.5 to 100 is boring it....
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