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-   -   Swagons Build Thread (http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=170843)

SpecBamf41 09-25-2011 12:21 AM

Swagons Build Thread
 
since this car in no longer i figure i would put up what it ended with.

Mod list:

engine:
stock longblock
uel headers
erg delete
iacv delete
ms2 standalone
perrin v1 fuel rails
650cc dw injectors
light weight pulleys
short ram with cone

drivetrain
2000-2002 jdm 4.44 from a RA
act heavyduty pressure plate
act 6 puck unsprung clutch disk
stock 2002 flywheel
2004 pedal asembles
4.44 open rear diff with soild mounts
sti transmission mount
stock short shifter from the ra

interiors be stripped
remaining parts
front seat
door cards
power windows
dash/no airbags
ebay 6 bolt steering wheel


exterior
silver
black plastic dipped hood and rackless roof
stock snowflakes with powder coat and nitto performance snow tires
jdm blacked out and cleared headlights with 5000k hids for highbeams and angry eyes around the projectors from lightwerks.


suspension
25mm adjustable swaybar with soild endlinks
front tower brace

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/11/24/ajeze2uj.jpg

SpecBamf41 09-25-2011 12:24 AM

and im stuck at the head bolts. damn things are on there. and my crappy tools are just breaking.

what order should i remove the bolts in?

and how do you get the crank gear off? that wedge aint just sliding out?

SpecBamf41 09-25-2011 10:17 PM

Got a good 1/2inch drive 12point socket and broke them right loose.. front>rear>center (bottom first i believe.) thats the reverse order


and is it true that these bolts, when reinstalled have to be angled a certain way?

broknindarkagain 09-25-2011 10:23 PM

What do you mean that they have to be angled a certain way? They go in straight...can't really be angled

Here are torque instructions.

| C A F |
| E B D |
-----

1) Install the cylinder head and gaskets on cylinder block.
CAUTION:
• Replace cylinder head gaskets with new ones.
• Be careful not to scratch the mating surface of cylinder block and cylinder head.
2) Tighten the cylinder head bolts.
(1) Apply a coat of engine oil to the washers and bolt threads.
(2) Tighten all bolts to 29 Nm (3.0 kgf-m, 22 ftlb) in alphabetical sequence.
(3) Tighten all bolts to 69 Nm (7.0 kgf-m, 51 ftlb) in alphabetical sequence.
(4) Back off all bolts in reverse order of assembly by 180 first; back them off by 180 again.
(5) Tighten bolts A and B to 34 Nm

and bolts C-D to 15 Nm
(6) Tighten all bolts by 90
(7) Tighten all bolts a further 90

CAUTION:
Do not tighten bolts more than 90 in total angle

SpecBamf41 09-25-2011 10:28 PM

so in that chart of bolt order is c or f the timing side?

and whne removing them does it matter the order? i just backed them all out about 180, then another 180, then the rest.

broknindarkagain 09-25-2011 10:29 PM

F&D would be the front of the engine (timing side). That diagram is as if you're looking right at the head as its mounted on the engine

SpecBamf41 09-25-2011 10:47 PM

ok thanks, what should i remove or add to the machine shop list.

valve job(wanna look at them first. can i buy or make a valve spring compressor?)
Hot tank items like, block, heads, head cover, water pipe. intake mani.
check crank shaft journals and mains.
maybe have the crank chamfered
hone, and if needed bore out to 100mm

anything less or more?

broknindarkagain 09-25-2011 10:55 PM

just take the complete head to the machine shop. Have them port/polish and put oversized valves into it...but leave all of that for the machine shop to do.

all of the block work, let the machine shop do. idk how much you will be able to bore it since its open deck. Isn't stock bore 93mm? Taking 7mm off of the metal might be a little too much.

the main journals are likely fine, but the machine shop will be able to take care of them for you if they are not.

SpecBamf41 09-25-2011 11:10 PM

stock bore is 99.5

and the over size vavles... thats money, i may or may not have. the porting i like, and sweet. they can take the heads apart and ill give them new valve seals or they just got there own? ill ask oem valve seals are fine right?

miles well have them tap the passengers head for oil lines too while they have them.

and the shortblock.. you mean just bring the whole them to them? the only things im reusing are the block halves and crank so ill take that apart....plus i wanna just because ill be putting it together.

and again about the over size valves. you mean like 1mm plus and cloverleaf the camber? what that gonna run me.

SpecBamf41 09-26-2011 03:13 PM

valve job 250 with clean
block hone/bore 75 plus 35 for clean
check crank journals and chamfer oil holes, plus polish 40-50
thats napa prices so like 400 roughly


is that good?

didnt ask about these
over size valves
porting

Jab83 09-26-2011 04:06 PM

your gonna bore it out??

babybaluga32 09-26-2011 04:54 PM

What head bolts are you gonna use?

SpecBamf41 09-26-2011 07:56 PM

im not gonna bore bore it. more just insure that i got good walls and go from 99.5 to 100

and head bolts... hmm. i probably should get new ones.

progress.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net...42125686_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net...09786390_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net...69214047_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net...31308186_n.jpg
and this one stud bore was very very intruded
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net...36487194_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net...07713818_n.jpg

broknindarkagain 09-26-2011 07:58 PM

going from 99.5 to 100 is boring it....

SpecBamf41 09-26-2011 08:07 PM

this should cover the whole motor.

http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/ge...48-0&width=450


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