TRS - The Retrofit Source Bi-xenon Morimoto Retro-Quik System (H1) Walkthrough...
Ok, so I'm not new to headlight clearing and I suppose I've cleared around 10-12 so far, but I am new to HID retrofits and this is my first. My timing seems to be just about right as this is probably the easiest headlight retrofit that can be done on our cars. What is also a plus is the output is absolutely incredable for a BiXenon kit!
First of all the kit is from The Retrofit Source and specifically...
Morimoto Retro-Quik System (H1)
Before getting started I searched all over the net looking for some sort of instructions as I hadn't done this before and the kit didn't come with any. In my search I found WRX and STI guys doing it and noticed they have it a bit worse than we do. This really is as easy as it gets. If you think you can crack open your headlights then you can very easily do this!
I was a little concerned about the proper wiring but after deciding to just jump right into it I later figured it all out. Not that big of a deal and now you have another local to bug if you seem to get stuck.
Lets start with the usual tool list:
1/4" open end wrench
10mm open end wrench
10mm 3/8 socket
sm zip ties
Mechanics Gloves (or similar)
Soldering Iron & Electrical solder
4 qty steel spring clamps (as in:
First things first,
Link to bumper removal for the 05-07 guys and some info about taking your headlight apart;
Post #9 says 250* for 20 min. The temp is spot on but 15min also does the job nicely.
Now when all the pop-its are out (yes even the upper one in the fenderwell -top corner) just be brave and grab the corner of the fender and pull. It will come off in your hands then just keep pulling it slowly around the headlight until its all out on one side. Now is a good time to dissconnect the fog light. Sometimes it's just easier to remove the bulb from the housing rather than from the connection...your call.
--- I assume no responsibility for you missing a pop-it and in pulling the bumper skin breaking something--
At this point you will want to support the bumper or have another person hold onto it while you do the other side.
Ok, now where were we...
Bumper is off and set aside.
Headlight removal, a few pics to show the mounting bolts (there are 7 total-one up and 6 down, and the one pop-it on top)
Before baking your light you will need to remove the 3 torx screws on the one corner (T10).
No, contrary to popular belief, you do not have to remove the bulbs nor wiring harness from the back of the headlight. Now I did make sure that no wiring touched the cookie sheet during the process (only important during the reheating later with the new wiring attached).
My headlight was baked on a cookie sheet at 250* for 15 minutes.
Time for the Mechanics Gloves as it's a bit hot, and your standard screwdriver.
Start working on that headlight as soon as possible or it will cool too much (if it does then just another 5 min in the over should do the trick) stick that screwdriver between the two halves and start twisting to begin the separation, do this all around and also pry up the tabs as you come to them.
Now when it starts to come apart you can get a good grip on it and just pull it apart. Do this with a snapping motion (as quick as you can) to break the sealant. Think of hot cheese on a pizza. If you do it too slowly then you will have a mess on your hands. Don't ask me about cleaning the goo off the lens as I have never had to go down that road. Just be carefull.
I have fould the surefire easiest way is to have a friend help you. With each of you grabing a side and pulling quickly it comes apart nice and tidy.
Your new Bi-Xenon lights next to the old (new on the right).
The old lights on the way out. You can see I've removed the 4 screws already. In the bottom of the pic above you can see the bracket that will need to be installed to the light prior to installing to the housing.
At this time you will use the supplied hardware and install this bracket. You can also reference the OEM to gauge how it will go.
If you look closely at the pic below you will notice the bracket is installed and how the hardware was used.
These wires/connectors were something I had to build (thus the soldering iron). I was a bit surprised that all the pieces were there but not already put together for you. Not really a big deal but it may be if you don't have access to a soldering iron. At which case ask Matt at TRS to do this for you. His customer service is tops so I'm sure this is something he may be doing already on newer kits (I bought the very first Legacy kit, it's just taken me a while to get to it).
This plugs into the highbeam motor and then tapped into your high beam wires on the headlight. There was no easy way to run the wires out of the cap so I just squeezed it out of the side of the cap. I figured because of the small gauge of the wire combined with my wanting to keep a tight seal... In the pic you can see the tap to the high beams on the left and the wiring ziptied.
In this pic you will notice that I installed the new bulb using the supplied grommet through the cap. Now I already had a hole from my previous DDM HID kit (sorry I forget the size, just drill it out to carefully match the inner spec of the grommet). I then used black high temp silicone to fill the two holes and in between the grommet and cap.
You will also notice that the horizontal adjustment screw is capped off. I didn't do it but doing it again I would have drilled a small hold in the plastic just enough to get a 1/4" 8mm socket through there so you can adjust it later if needed.
I'm a big fan of Posi-Lock connectors so I choose to use them here. You can just make them out on the next pic at the end of the wires on the right. These are only on one headlight and they are the trigger wires. Down further you can see the entire harness and it's connecting to the pair in the center/top of the pic.
Once you have your new bulbs installed, caps on, and wiring done you are ready to bake them again. Go turn that oven on to 250*
Be very carefull never to touch the inside of the headlight assembly. It is a good idea to use a can of compressed air to remove any micro debrit though, just don't touch it.
Now carefulyl press the lens back on as far as you can get it and then go bake them again for 15min.
Things to have ready:
Gloves, the 3 small torx screws you took out, and the spring clamps.
Remove the light from the oven and press then halves together as hard as you can and make note of the tabs.
Now use your spring clamps and clamp it all around and then quickly screw in the torx screws you took out earlier.
Let it cool and grab the other one.
So from left to right:
The Morimoto ballast, one lead going to the headlight bulb and the other to the wiring harness.
The relay which installs on the battery side of the car and has a positive and negative lead to install.
Center is the tirgger that installs to the OEM headlight harness of the drivers side headlight. I choose Posi-Lock connectors mainly for a strong connection that is easily removable. When you ever need to remove this headlight you will either use a quick dissconnect like the Posi-Lock here or be forced to search behind the bumper for the connector of the harness.
Far right lead goes to the passenger side ballast that is missing from this pic.
My chosen location of the ballast install, passenger side:
Installs nicely on the horn bracket.
Ziptied to the washer bottle. I bent the top of the bracket to take some pressure off the zipties. Over time I believe the zipties may break if I didn't .
I ran the wiring harness in front of the radiator and behind the FMIC core.
You can just make it out on top of the coolant bottle.
And then on the passenger side just as it snakes around.
Now if you have gotten this far I shouldn't have to tell you how to put it all back together.
Just one note for those that are removing the front bumper for the first time, (much easier with two people) hang the front of the bumper from the middle supports (where the grill attaches).
Line up everything starting with the inside corner of the headlight first.
Please note that it's very easy to push in the tabs of the bumper to what you think is the proper slot under the headlight but isn't. That would result in bending those tabs or the worse fear....breaking/tearing them.
They will line up immediately below the clear plastic lens of the headlight just be carefull.
Now after lining up the inside corner of the headlight to the bumper, have a friend hold the bumper from falling back off in the front. You will now go around and reconnect the fog lights then to the side of the car and tuck in the fender liner. Many have not done this only to have to force it afterward or worse, have to remove the bumper again to get it in there.
Now line up the other tabs of the bumper starting by pressing at the front of ther bumper making sure they go in first.
Make absolutely certain the tab of the bumper on the corner (just below the turn signal) is fully inserted before rounding to the side of the car. This is the one that most of us have problems with.
The end result...
More pics to follow once I have them aligned properly.
Awesome write up. Def in for more pics. Good stuff
Is this the retro-quik system on their website?
and not hard at all
No pics of the final assembled light?
I'm pretty excited to do this in my 09. Especially since the cost of the TRS kit is less than any other retro, AND everything comes with it!
Bought this kit yesterday afternoon and just saw this walk-through this morning. SAd to see the Legacy kit comes with an H1 bulb instead of a D2S bulb. How complicated was the assembly of the projector. I saw a link to the Impreza/STi install and it looked like there was a lot to put together. If you don't install the leads to the high beam I'm guessing the bi-xenon function doesn't work?
Best of luck to me. I'll be clearing my lenses, installing this kit, installing HIR high beams, and installing a 3000k DDM Tuning kit in my fogs.
Why was the H1 bulb disappointing?
I think the D2S projector doesn't fit.
Great write up, you can go with either H1 or D2S there are 2 versions of this projector. The H1 yields better output then the D2S by design. They are both the same on the over all installation.
Great job drew.
Remove Goo off the lens: Use Goo gone
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