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-   -   97 Outback CV axle play at transmission stub shaft (http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=155703)

amorgan93 02-14-2011 04:19 PM

97 Outback CV axle play at transmission stub shaft
 
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i planned on replacing the seals on both sides of the front shafts in the trans that go to the CV axle, because i noticed that there is gear oil leaking from them but on the right front side i noticed that i can grab the CV axle and move it up and down, side to side, anyway i want. The play looks like its actually the shaft that goes into the transmission, not the cv axle moving on the shaft, but it is hard to tell. I havent tried wiggling the other side yet. As you can see in the picture it is soaked in gear oil, power steering fluid, and engine oil from the old EJ25 which i have removed. On the parts car 96 impreza, this is crazy tight and there is no play at all, no matter how hard i try to move that shaft and cv axle. If this car needs transmission work im simply going to cut out the front of the car, where the radiator sets, cut all that out, that way i can strap in a horse of some kind.

broknindarkagain 02-14-2011 04:24 PM

I like the horse idea.

I've done tons of axles where there is play. I've never really thought twice about it but I'm not a transmission expert.

Seriously, strap a horse. You will have the only TRUE Subaru powered by horsepower

amorgan93 02-14-2011 04:29 PM

haha yea ide have a serious all terrain vehicle

amorgan93 02-14-2011 06:03 PM

the shaft on both sides moves in and out slightly less than 1/8 of an inch and wiggles up and down side to side and to hell and back. Im tired of screwing around with these duds. Ive got an impreza that has a perfect transmission with no leaks, all except the torque bind which is better but not 100% gone and the shuddering when accelerating, and i have outback with no torque bind and a axle stubs that are screwed up and dump about 15 gallons of gear oil. i cant win for losing, its probably my best bet to scrap both of these cars and buy a toyota. the 98 avalon i drive has been run in ditches and drove out, spun tires constantly, gone offroading, never seen less than 6k rpm at every shift, ive held the tranny in neutral, reved to 6000rpm and slammed it in Drive, coasted down interstate in neutral for about 6 miles (which i hear is horrible on the transmission) and has 210k miles on it and has never given the least problem. The outback and impreza has been babied and well maintained and i cant even get a good driving car out of either of them. Or maybe i should just take the impreza engine, throw it in the outback the way it is (screw replacing the seals and dumping money in it) and just sell the outback for 1500 the way it is. Let the front differential fall out in the road with someone else.

broknindarkagain 02-14-2011 06:07 PM

no, its probably your best bet to stop buying junk subarus to piece together. just take that money and buy ONE running subaru

amorgan93 02-14-2011 06:12 PM

so how big of a deal is this stub play crap before i go strapping c4 to the cars. is it something i should worry about. and i didnt know it was possible to buy a running subaru for $550, or any car.

broknindarkagain 02-14-2011 06:29 PM

like i said, almost every axle i've ever replaced (and i've done literally hundreds of them) has had some play in it. its nothing to worry about.

the fact that the seals right there are bad can contribute to the play, so replace the seals and you should be good

amorgan93 02-14-2011 06:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by broknindarkagain (Post 3275985)
like i said, almost every axle i've ever replaced (and i've done literally hundreds of them) has had some play in it. its nothing to worry about.

the fact that the seals right there are bad can contribute to the play, so replace the seals and you should be good

The axles themselves don't have the play its the stubs in the transmission. you think seals would even help though? i bet the bearing is shot.

broknindarkagain 02-14-2011 06:37 PM

i know its the stubs

amorgan93 02-14-2011 07:20 PM

do you honestly think seals would fix it or would it be a better idea to just drive the impreza with its semi-present torque bind and part out the outback.

broknindarkagain 02-14-2011 10:34 PM

The Impreza doesn't have a title (i think i saw that in one of your posts).....

So I think you should sell both cars and use the funds to buy one running car

amorgan93 02-21-2011 09:01 PM

i'm not sure what the technical name for the "axle stub" is so its hard to find the right seal. Is it called the output shaft? the only seal i could find is the "output shaft seal"? and each seal has a different width (.354", .276", .315") i don't know much at all about transmissions

dawagonbus 02-21-2011 10:00 PM

amorgan93,
I'm certainly no expert at transmissions, simply a shadetree mechanic that reads a lot and collects one time use tools. :) About two weeks ago I repalced my drivers side Differential seal. That's the one you can see surrounding the "stub" after you get the half shaft off.
The seal was about 8.00 from the dealer. There is also an o-ring that goes around the the part that unscrews. that one I didn't replace, but probably should have. I guess I just didn't think it would go bad as there really isn't any stress on it.

Anyways, If you do decide to unscrew the part that holds the "stub" make sure to make a MARK with a Sharpie on both the differential housing and the part you're unscrewing, VERY important. Then COUNT the number of turns till it will come off. Take your time, go slow and keep checking if it has come off or not.
Once off, WRITE the number of turns down so you don't have to remember it. Be exact, for example; 4.5, or 5.25!! (mine was 5 turns.)
Do your work and then replace the the part you unscrewed VERY carefully. Get the part's threads to catch and then count the turns back and line up your marks perfectly. This is really important as the differential bearings are preloaded and you want to make sure that you keep the same load after getting in there. Also only do one side at a time. Then screw the small toothed holding plate back on and you're done.
My dealer's parts guy told me this when I bought the seal and I'm glad he did b/c I wouldn't have known. (which is why I don't do this professionally)

You'll get some fluid draining so get a bucket. Also some clean rags to make sure you don't introduce dirt into the differential. A round 3-4 in spacer fell out when I did this job and I thought I had screwed something up but I just put it back in. Can't remember if it only went in one way or not so be careful and look it over first if it does come out.

Good luck!!

amorgan93 02-22-2011 03:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dawagonbus (Post 3284906)
amorgan93,
I'm certainly no expert at transmissions, simply a shadetree mechanic that reads a lot and collects one time use tools. :) About two weeks ago I repalced my drivers side Differential seal. That's the one you can see surrounding the "stub" after you get the half shaft off.
The seal was about 8.00 from the dealer. There is also an o-ring that goes around the the part that unscrews. that one I didn't replace, but probably should have. I guess I just didn't think it would go bad as there really isn't any stress on it.

Anyways, If you do decide to unscrew the part that holds the "stub" make sure to make a MARK with a Sharpie on both the differential housing and the part you're unscrewing, VERY important. Then COUNT the number of turns till it will come off. Take your time, go slow and keep checking if it has come off or not.
Once off, WRITE the number of turns down so you don't have to remember it. Be exact, for example; 4.5, or 5.25!! (mine was 5 turns.)
Do your work and then replace the the part you unscrewed VERY carefully. Get the part's threads to catch and then count the turns back and line up your marks perfectly. This is really important as the differential bearings are preloaded and you want to make sure that you keep the same load after getting in there. Also only do one side at a time. Then screw the small toothed holding plate back on and you're done.
My dealer's parts guy told me this when I bought the seal and I'm glad he did b/c I wouldn't have known. (which is why I don't do this professionally)

You'll get some fluid draining so get a bucket. Also some clean rags to make sure you don't introduce dirt into the differential. A round 3-4 in spacer fell out when I did this job and I thought I had screwed something up but I just put it back in. Can't remember if it only went in one way or not so be careful and look it over first if it does come out.

Good luck!!

thanks a bunch! i'm also glad you mentioned getting it from a dealer cause i forgot we have a dealer nearby and i was only looking online for some reason, with shipping prices through the roof. Ill have to pay attention how the spacer comes out, thanks for the warning. im paranoid and ocd so ill probably set up some sort of surveillance of me removing it and spend about 2 weeks doing one side, counting and recounting the number of turns. in the mean time im gonna call that subaru dealer and pick up those seals, as well as some seals for the engine going into the car.


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