brokentv Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 I'm getting a clunking somewhere in the front driver side area. I changed the struts and end links which helped and those where definitely blown, but there is still a clunk. I'm thinking it's either the inner tie rod or the steering rack itself. Also the bellows boots are torn as well. Basically I jacked the car up and there is play in the wheel when wiggling it in and out horizontally, zero play when pushing and pulling top and bottom of the tire though. When I try to wiggle the inner tie rod by hand I'm not noticing any play on the inner tie rod joint that I can tell, although the rubber covers are making it hard to get a close look. What I did notice though is when I put pressure where the inner tie rod meets the steering rack the shaft in the steering rack has a bit of play. So I'm wondering if the inner tie rod could just be loose where it connects to the rack, and I should first try replacing the inner tie rod and of course the bellows boots and go from there. Or does this sound like the steering rack is going bad. Also the rack doesnt seem to be leaking there is just a bit of grease in the area where the covers are broken. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 I'd check your ball joint while you are at it. Mine would clunk when I hit a bump when it was bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brokentv Posted January 4, 2013 Author Share Posted January 4, 2013 When you decided to replace you ball joint, was is showing signs of being bad when you did the common tests for them or did you just decide to replace it from a hunch. On mine a bad ball joint seems to be possible, I put a bar under the tire and lifted up and with a lot of pressure I would get what could be the clunk I'm hearing. I'm just wondering if they can go bad without any of the typical signs through common tests for them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted January 5, 2013 Share Posted January 5, 2013 I didn't pass inspection. The tech was wiggling the tire back and forth and there was play so he didn't pass me. But the clunk was bothering me and I didn't know where it was coming from. When I wiggled the wheel back and forth I could feel it so I figured that was the best place to start. It was hard to get out. I tried whacking it, and using a puller I rented from the parts store but it couldn't get a good bite and would slip off. So I bought a ball joint separator for $55. It worked great! I love it. It was expensive but a well made tool. I'm sure I'll use it again someday. You can get cheaper ones at Harbor Freight for $17. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kennyfvholla Posted January 5, 2013 Share Posted January 5, 2013 It's not the ball joint. It wouldn't cause that kind of play. This issue is an internal rack gear issue. I have the same problem with my car. If you take the steering wheel and shift it back and forth short, quick, and consistently you will here the clunk. I'm not sure if it's a worn input gear or a worn rail that's causing the problem. It could be both, but you won't know unless you take it off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spooln30 Posted January 5, 2013 Share Posted January 5, 2013 It's either the inner or outer tie rods. Just replace them both on both sides cuz if ones worn and they never been touched then the other ones will soon follow. Since you need to replace the rack bellows and you'll need an alignment its better to replace all four. GL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brokentv Posted January 5, 2013 Author Share Posted January 5, 2013 It's not the ball joint. It wouldn't cause that kind of play. This issue is an internal rack gear issue. I have the same problem with my car. If you take the steering wheel and shift it back and forth short, quick, and consistently you will here the clunk. I'm not sure if it's a worn input gear or a worn rail that's causing the problem. It could be both, but you won't know unless you take it off. I'm thinking this is it. When I get under the car the only part I can shake by hand and get play is the shaft that sticks out on each side of the rack that the inner tie rod connects to. This area on the drivers side is where I'm getting some play, when I shake the same area on the passenger side there is zero play. It doesn't seem to be the tie rod, but I'm thinking of just replacing it anyway before jumping to conclusions on replacing the rack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stang70Fastback Posted January 5, 2013 Share Posted January 5, 2013 I think I might have the same issue. It's odd, because everything seems solid and tight in the steering, and there is no obvious play in the steering wheel. Going over bumps most of the time doesn't do it, but a quick series of undulations or vibrations that shimmy the wheel back and forth can produce a clunking coming from somewhere between the rack and the steering wheel itself that sounds like a loose universal joint or something. I want to track it down, but it's not as easy as turning the wheel back and forth and listening, because it happens so infrequently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subieadam Posted January 21, 2013 Share Posted January 21, 2013 I think I might have the same issue. It's odd, because everything seems solid and tight in the steering, and there is no obvious play in the steering wheel. Going over bumps most of the time doesn't do it, but a quick series of undulations or vibrations that shimmy the wheel back and forth can produce a clunking coming from somewhere between the rack and the steering wheel itself that sounds like a loose universal joint or something. I want to track it down, but it's not as easy as turning the wheel back and forth and listening, because it happens so infrequently. I just recently had this same problem on my 97 OB, tighten the bolt that holds the universal joint that connects from the steering rack to the steering column. The top one was a bit loose on mine causing the clunking sound, but might as well tighten the lower one as well. Problem will be gone with a 10mm socket and 5 minutes of elbow grease. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subieadam Posted January 21, 2013 Share Posted January 21, 2013 It's not the ball joint. It wouldn't cause that kind of play. This issue is an internal rack gear issue. I have the same problem with my car. If you take the steering wheel and shift it back and forth short, quick, and consistently you will here the clunk. I'm not sure if it's a worn input gear or a worn rail that's causing the problem. It could be both, but you won't know unless you take it off. Its not the rack, tighten the bolts on the universal joint that connects the rack to the steering column and the problem will be gone. The upper bolt is usually the loose one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brokentv Posted January 22, 2013 Author Share Posted January 22, 2013 I'll try this out, I was just about to buy a rack since I found a place that sells them used. Mine does have a leak and a mechanic confirmed it although the leak seems very minor. The main problem that my steering rack has, like mentioned above is the shaft that is inside the rack seems to have some play right where it comes out on the drivers side and connects to the inner tie rod. When I'm actually driving the car not only is my steering wheel slightly crooked when going straight, it seems that taking turns in one direction is less responsive then the other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subieadam Posted January 22, 2013 Share Posted January 22, 2013 I'll try this out, I was just about to buy a rack since I found a place that sells them used. Mine does have a leak and a mechanic confirmed it although the leak seems very minor. The main problem that my steering rack has, like mentioned above is the shaft that is inside the rack seems to have some play right where it comes out on the drivers side and connects to the inner tie rod. When I'm actually driving the car not only is my steering wheel slightly crooked when going straight, it seems that taking turns in one direction is less responsive then the other. Aside from your rack issue at least this will fix the clunk you re getting... Just take em one thing at a time lol, but yeah it sounds like its time for a new rack but enjoy the relief of no clunk noise!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subieadam Posted January 22, 2013 Share Posted January 22, 2013 Curious if you tried tightening that bolt yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stang70Fastback Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 I'm waiting for it to not be -10 degrees outside with the wind chill to get under the car and try that. I will definitely report back, it just might be a while, lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subieadam Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 Lol no worries, that would be too cold for me also! The top of the universal joint where it meets the steering column is just under the brake booster so you can get the top bolt from up top easily, and the bottom bolt is also accessible from the top... just a bit further of a reach lol. Its in the 50s here, and 30s at night and im still freezin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stang70Fastback Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 I'll probably do it tomorrow if I have time if it's that easy to get to. Hadn't even looked at it yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subieadam Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 Sounds good, i'll look out for the verdict when you are done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brokentv Posted January 28, 2013 Author Share Posted January 28, 2013 I ended up changing out my steering rack and steering feels solid now. As for the clunking, the place that I went to for an alignment said my wheel bearing is wearing out and making noise on the front driver side where the clunk is so for now i'm thinking that's what the clunk is. Apparently on the left rear side I have a bent lr trailing arm so they couldn't align the rear to spec. Does anyone know how hard it is to replace a lr trailing arm. I'm wondering if a junkyards a good place to get one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stang70Fastback Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 I took a look at the bolts real quick... kind of. The top one was easy to get to and it was solid as a rock. Couldn't get to the lower one at that time. Having said that, I got behind the wheel and turned it back and forth and the clunking sounds as though it's coming more from right underneath the housing behind the wheel itself. I assume there is another universal joint under there somewhere. I'll have to take the plastic shroud off and see if I can find something else around there that might be loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subieadam Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 A wheel bearing will make a humming sound, and I really think you should try to tighten the bolt at the top of the universal joint where it goes into the steering column... that is most likely your clunk sound. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subieadam Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 There are two bolts, one at the lower end of the universal joint where it goes into the rack, and at the top which you already saw. Also are the bolts rusted? cause that can cause a loose fit even if you cant turn them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stang70Fastback Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 Neither seemed particularly rusted, and I gave a good yank on the upper one and it wouldn't budge. There did not seem to be any play either from what I could tell. Like I said though, the clunk really, truly is coming from just behind the steering wheel, so I'm going to look there first and if I can't find anything, maybe I'll try to break those bolts free and tighten them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subieadam Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 Sounds good man, best of luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 Like I said though, the clunk really, truly is coming from just behind the steering wheel,turn the steering wheel from full left to full right, count the number of turns, and count the number of clunks. i think it is about 2.5 turns, + or -. it is not unusual for the steering universal to dry out and bind. and then for every half turn, 180 degrees, there will be a clunk. another test, spray some penetrating oil on it . if the problem goes away you have you will know. for less clunking until you can replace it, put some 10w30 in an oil can and squirt it in the joints. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stang70Fastback Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 It's not a clunk related to a certain number of revolutions or anything. It's play in the wheel. I can get a dull clunk just by moving the wheel back and forth slightly. When you really notice it is when driving on a dirt road, where the wheel would normally be rattling back and forth. At that point it makes a racket and it sounds like the steering wheel is barely connected, lol. It's definitely a sound coming from my side of the firewall though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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