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Info on OB to GT suspension geometry. (Removing spacer)


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Hi,

 

I am trying to gather all the info needed to swap all parts to lower my OBXT and take out all the spacers. I have done it on my Older 97 OB a couple years ago but then it was easy cause I had all the parts free from a parts car and did nt needed to really search before doing it. Now I'll need to buy the GT parts so I want to make sure I buy all I need and not parts I dont need.

 

So far from what I can see its way easier to do it on the newer 05+. Less parts seems to be needed to be changed.

 

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2012/04/11

Heres the latest.

After all the research and part number comparing and then comparing parts from a friends GT to my OB XT I finally was able to find all the parts needed for the conversion.

 

I was able to find a very nice fellow on Nasioc that took all the parts off is salvaged GT and shipped them to me.

 

Now the next picture shows ALL the parts needed to do a complete and perfect OB XT to GT conversion. Only thing not shown in the picture are the struts.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6437.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6438.jpg

 

Now I have added a few Goodies. KW V2coilovers, SpecB front top hats, Camber rear UCA and Caster front LCA WL bushings and also Leg GT rack and pinion. Eventualy 4/2 Pot Nissan aluminium brake caliper conversion. Wow I am so excited to install the parts.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/IMG_6442.jpg

 

Here a picture of my car. I've only purchased it 2 months ago. So far I've install front and rear Hotchkis sway Bars with Cusco front links and 08-09 rear tails. Missing a nice set of 18x9.5 now!!!!

I went from a really build STI swapped 97 Leg OB Wagon to this one. So far I love it but I will love even more once all is installed. Now I,ll have to gather more parts for the VF52 install but still debating a possible V8-9 STI swap.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/IMG_6408.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/IMG_6409.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/IMG_6414.jpg

 

And here it is with the wife FXT.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/IMG_6413.jpg

IMG_6437.thumb.jpg.659d187ca82dc3fdcb7c30cebd30ee60.jpg

IMG_6438.thumb.jpg.05da1a939c7127643da9a2209e6e1bd1.jpg

IMG_6442.thumb.jpg.4365884a32f11b531ceaa05a23bd06fb.jpg

IMG_6408.thumb.jpg.6ed3e9289ed6d24a352f52012fdeb19f.jpg

IMG_6409.thumb.jpg.0509531840619a0ee2323be7c1293b25.jpg

IMG_6414.thumb.jpg.bbbcf6c10fc3b43e163e61e40ab17a89.jpg

IMG_6413.thumb.jpg.1201f0056ce2a58c70c5df62ff3ae6e5.jpg

Edited by SBT
Loaded pictures for posterity's sake
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Heres what I found out so far....I will had the part number and picture from my car later. Now I need to source parts!!!

 

 

In this picture number 1-2 needs to be removed and number 4-6-7-29-33 need to be changed with GT parts

http://static.opposedforces.com/epc_img/366495120003.png

 

In this picture number 14-15-17-5 need to be change with GT parts

http://static.opposedforces.com/epc_img/366495120101.png

 

In this picture number 7-11-13-17-19 need to be changed to GT parts

http://static.opposedforces.com/epc_img/366495120102.png

 

In this picture number number 2-10 need to be changed with GT parts

http://static.opposedforces.com/epc_img/366495141002.png

 

In this picture number 4 need to be changed to GT part

http://static.opposedforces.com/epc_img/366495119901.png

 

In this picture number 1 need to be change to GT part

http://static.opposedforces.com/epc_img/366495134701.png

 

In this picture number 8-24 need to be change to GT parts

http://static.opposedforces.com/epc_img/366495135001.png

 

It seem that number 32 needs to be changed but I think it simply the hangers that need to be shorten but I am not sure!!!

http://static.opposedforces.com/epc_img/366495144005.png

 

In this picture number 3 seems to need to be change with GT part but may still fit.

http://static.opposedforces.com/epc_img/366495157204.png

366495120003.png.a01fd04e3d6546e8de704c4b0cc96a43.png

366495120101.png.df7fd6e83704ea8dd85b8d6b62235bf6.png

366495120102.png.ef73022fd665275d5ba344efa21908cf.png

366495141002.png.2cd1524b43c5e6797b5e89098aeaf99d.png

366495119901.png.23e83d8c049b63b3a78817930bf44065.png

366495134701.png.7cbe442dbf0c496b84a13784d007a3bb.png

366495135001.png.740756741da2953c9a5e32b1764e3ea1.png

366495144005.png.0b17cbc93124ff721b2e12755e95c5ab.png

366495157204.png.57761b63b856d778a0b590fc5c1c09b6.png

Edited by SBT
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I went through this before, and to do it "right" you need the LGT steering universal joint, all of the LGT bolts (to use after removing the spacers), an LGT trans crossmember (just the ones perpindicular to the centerline of the car), the LGT bolts for the rear crossmember, an LGT drive shaft, and LGT upper control arms and bump stops.

 

Exhaust is the same, so no worries there.

 

I priced it out, and not including the rear upper control arms, the cost was like $1300 from the dealer.

 

Some have said that you do not need the LGT bolts, that you can simply put the spacers on the other side of the subframes and then use the stock bolts.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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I went through this before, and to do it "right" you need the LGT steering universal joint, all of the LGT bolts (to use after removing the spacers), an LGT trans crossmember (just the ones perpindicular to the centerline of the car), the LGT bolts for the rear crossmember, an LGT drive shaft, and LGT upper control arms and bump stops.

 

Exhaust is the same, so no worries there.

 

I priced it out, and not including the rear upper control arms, the cost was like $1300 from the dealer.

 

Some have said that you do not need the LGT bolts, that you can simply put the spacers on the other side of the subframes and then use the stock bolts.

 

That is what I thought, puting the spacers on the other side of the subframe!!

Have you looked at the shifter? The part numbers are different and that makes me think that the leght is different to compensate for the fact that the tranny sits lower in the tunel.

And do you know what is different in the driveshaft exactly? I am getting contradicting info true the threads.

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I have an sti short shifter for an lgt in my car now. It stud more forward, but works. I THINK you can use the stock shifter, though. There should be sufficient room.

 

The drive shaft, I have heard, has a different bearing offset but I haven't been able to compare them.

 

I believe some have done the spacer removal without the drive shaft swap. I'm not sure on needing the lgt steering universal joint, but I believe it is necessary.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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For the shifter, if you look at the picture above I am talking about number 8 and 24. They have different part number than the GT.

 

Yes I am pretty sure the steering joint needs to be changed for the GT part.

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I know. I have the STI SS, designed and intended for the LGT in my OBXT.
[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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I know. I have the STI SS, designed and intended for the LGT in my OBXT.

 

 

Ok so you have the whole thing with the shifter rods meant for a GT in your OB!!?

I thought you were only talking about the shift lever!

Is it well centered like stock when in neutral?

Edited by JDMg3
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No, it sits forward. In 1/3/5 there is a 1/4" between the bezel and the shifter.
[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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Ok Good info! Thx for the input.

Bottomline is that the shifter rods are different but should still work with stock parts.

 

Now if you were to remove all the spacers you shifter would be centered!

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Yep. I'd like to remove the spacers. One step closer to being the LGT wagon that never was.
[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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Once I'm done gathering the info and parts, I do a full write up with pictures to make it easy for others. I am curently sourcing the parts used since new it would be to expensive!
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Also, are we just going off of part numbers being different, or determining that geometry or other issues will be corrected? Some parts on the OB are stouter, yes? If that's the primary difference I'd just as soon leave them.

 

Right now I only have my rear spacers out, which were pulled to make room for the exhaust. I want to upgrade to the Group N trans mount, but does that mean doing the crossmember, too?

 

Meh, I wish I could get under my car more easily. (condo rules + tiny garage...)

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Just out of curiosity, what is your goal by doing all of this?

 

 

The goal is to lower the Outback.....and I'm going lower than a stock GT. By lowering the outback that much, the geometry of the suspension is going to be completely off. The lca for example wont be fonctioning at the angle they are suspose to. I want to keep the geometry as close as it was intended to fonction as possible and this will keep the overall handling at its best.

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Also, are we just going off of part numbers being different, or determining that geometry or other issues will be corrected? Some parts on the OB are stouter, yes? If that's the primary difference I'd just as soon leave them.

 

Right now I only have my rear spacers out, which were pulled to make room for the exhaust. I want to upgrade to the Group N trans mount, but does that mean doing the crossmember, too?

 

Meh, I wish I could get under my car more easily. (condo rules + tiny garage...)

 

Yes thats true right now I'am refereing mostly to part numbers although I did do this in the past on my 97 Outback so alot off stuff I know will need to be changed to get it perfect and yes it will correct the geometry. The parts are actualy not stouter on the Outback, just slightly different. Anyways that how it was on my older Outback.

 

Some parts like the drive shaft and exaust sheild(Not very important), rear uca, I am not sure what the difference are.

 

Yes the tranny cross member would need to be changed but I was thinking one could possibly make a spacer that goes between the cross member and the tranny mount. BTW the tranny mount it self is the same.

 

Over the weekend finaly I should have access to my buddy's lift to compare my car with a buddy's LGT.

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The goal is to lower the Outback.....and I'm going lower than a stock GT. By lowering the outback that much, the geometry of the suspension is going to be completely off. The lca for example wont be fonctioning at the angle they are suspose to. I want to keep the geometry as close as it was intended to fonction as possible and this will keep the overall handling at its best.

 

Cool, makes sense I suppose. There are a few other threads on here you may want to check out as well, we are having a discussion regarding spacers over here:

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/coilovers-outback-181286.html

 

My 06 Outback is currently on Legacy GT suspension, with everything else Outback still in place. Overall it seems to have lowered my car close to three inches, but I never measured the stock height so that is just an estimate:

 

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6089/6113181566_d59b80b3e1_b.jpg

 

I am in the process of replacing my Legacy GT suspension with coilovers and have so far learned that I need to replace my rear lower control arms with an adjustable set, for which I have chosen Whiteline (since that appears to be the only option) and I am now trying to figure out if it is worth it to remove the spacers and replace some parts with Legacy parts.

 

Edit: Over on the other thread that I linked it is suggested that I replace the trailing arm mount, and the trailing arm.

Edited by Sublimejoe
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I really like your car! Mines Blk also and I am also going with Rotiforms but model Nue in 18x9.5 +35!

I'm also ordering 08-09 tails!

 

From what I can see the trailing arm mount need to be changed but not the trailing arm themselves. Same part number.

Taking out the spacers won't lower the car more but will get your control arm back to the correct angle!

I'll be needing some rear lca also if the wl camber bushing is not sufficient but I think they are over price and I'll simply end up making myself some!

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But that rear upper control arm is a different PN, I think. I just don't know the difference between them.

 

Don't worry about the exhaust shield. I don't think it matters. The one in my 5MT XT is stamped "4EAT" or something. I don't believe that heat shield makes a difference.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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I really like your car! Mines Blk also and I am also going with Rotiforms but model Nue in 18x9.5 +35!

I'm also ordering 08-09 tails!

 

From what I can see the trailing arm mount need to be changed but not the trailing arm themselves. Same part number.

Taking out the spacers won't lower the car more but will get your control arm back to the correct angle!

I'll be needing some rear lca also if the wl camber bushing is not sufficient but I think they are over price and I'll simply end up making myself some!

 

Thank you! Have you ordered your rims yet? 9.5" +35 is reallllly pushing it on your car just fyi.

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No I have not....i've only had the car for 1 month aprox! I'll order soon since spring is around the corner but I want to get the suspension thing over with first!

I know for the wheels, that how I like it! I'll be running a little stretch, some camber and I'll do some fender work!

 

Here's my Old OB.....to bad it was faster than the XT:

http://www.ottawasubaru.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=31185

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I wonder if you could roll the metal, then use a heat-gun and form up the lip on the OB flares?
[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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