Safe boost level for stock turbo with PW TMIC

[DerekDaniel]

Hello what is the safest amount of boost one can run on stock gen4 legacy with TMIC upgrade? (and stock downpipe) without killing the turbo.....

 

Or, can you run higher levels with TMIC upgrade as long as banjo bolts stay clean? and do the 08 GTs have the problem with banjo bolts getting clogged and killen turbos?

 

Has anybody ran too much boost with TMIC upgrade where their stock turbo was blown.

If so what psi?

 

Thank you for advice and clarification: I ask because I had 17 psi on stock tmic and it blew off my bpv hose that connects up under the manifold (which is a pain in the ass to put back on, because you have to remove entire tmic and putting a clamp on it is a whole other story).

 

So I ordered a process west tmic, so I can at least keep running 17 psi and hopefully avoid popping hoses. I would also like to increase the boost with this upgrade, maybe to 17.5 or 18psi. , but I don't want to run to much boost and keep popping lines or even worse kill the turbo.

 

Thanks for advise.

[SCASEYS]

so you bought a $950+ TMIC and only want 18PSI

 

have any money to give me?

[shadowsports]

No banjo on '08's. Someone else will have to answer your other questions in regards to max safe psi on a stock turbo.

[m sprank]

08's have a banjo bolt filter screen. All turbo Subies do. Some have more than others. It is a myth that 008+ do not have them.

 

During the 2008 Stop Sale some overzealous Subie techs removed them pre-purchase. this was not advised by SOA. They were there when the cars left the factory.

 

Boost level is somewhat determined by knock/timing/fuel/etc. If using a stock turbo, a PW is major overkill. But, if it makes you feel better, its your money. You will most likely be able to (safely) tune to 18.5-19psi on stock fuel, stock turbo, PW. Might be able to eek 20psi for a quick second.

[scoobydoobie]

so you bought a $950+ TMIC and only want 18PSI

 

have any money to give me?

 

If on a stock turbo all you really want to run is 18-19 anyways

[DerekDaniel]

Cool thank for the replies.

I went PW because of global warming and cant afford to get down pipe and bigger turbo for mawr power.

 

So I am just trying to get a max stage one tune goin, so far perrin turbo inlet and a 2.5 inch magnaflow cat back and grimmspeed 3port lol.

 

I have received my first map from infamous and loved how the car felt and how the logs looked compared to the problems with cobb maps, and a recent protune gone bad.

 

But 17 psi blew my damn bpv line off that attaches under the manifold and I think 17 psi boost I think it may also be too much for the stocker tmic over time. Not to mention stock tmic is a horrible set up.

So I figured I would upgrade since I had everything torn apart and would also be able to keep hiting 17 psi with upgrade, instead of possibly having to go down to 16psi with the stocker to avoid blowing end tanks and popping lines. I dont wanna go down in psi I want to go up and my stock intercooler wont allow that

Plus Pwest is only like $180 bucks more than perrin and avo

[.Catalyst.]

I'm totally confused by your logic. You are stage 1 - had a few lines pop off at around 17psi so rather than using clamps or such you bought a $1000 TMIC, a turbo inlet, EBCS, and CBE?

 

I highly recommend you do some more research or ask questions before buying anything. For what you spent on the PW alone you could have done a DP, tune, and found a used Perrin or AVO TMIC.

 

Blowing vac lines isn't fixed with another TMIC. Seems from your first post here that you aren't focusing on a new turbo, but your building your car as if it's going stage 3 within the week.

[DerekDaniel]

I'm totally confused by your logic. You are stage 1 - had a few lines pop off at around 17psi so rather than using clamps or such you bought a $1000 TMIC, a turbo inlet, EBCS, and CBE?

 

Yeah they are clamped now but even clamped I doubt stock tmic could handle 17 psi boost for any reasonable time, and I do not want to have to decrease boost to avoid the possibility of popping this pain in the ass line off again regardless if its is clamped, super-glued and ziptied or eventually blowing the end tanks ad I do not want to puts some crazyass clamps and jb quikweld as a solution.

 

I highly recommend you do some more research or ask questions before buying anything. For what you spent on the PW alone you could have done a DP, tune, and found a used Perrin or AVO TMIC.

 

I could not buy all of those parts you indicated for less than a PW tmic, as I do not put cheap stuff on my car. The Avo and perrin tmic are just bigger stock setups still sitting on the tutbo like a turd soaking up heat, unlike the PW set up. Also why does it matter that I upgrade my Tmic before my downpipe? I did not know there was a specific order to modifying a car.

 

Blowing vac lines isn't fixed with another TMIC. Seems from your first post here that you aren't focusing on a new turbo, but your building your car as if it's going stage 3 within the week.

 

So I should have just went down to 16 psi boost to quit blowing lines and called it a day? When did keeping air cooler become such a bad thing, regardless if the car is stock or if it has a bigger turbo or down pipe on it?

It is a hundred and hell degrees where I live and I believe this is the best decision to do what I want without spending a ton of money. and still get decent gains from a tune.

[DerekDaniel]

08's have a banjo bolt filter screen. All turbo Subies do. Some have more than others. It is a myth that 008+ do not have them.

 

During the 2008 Stop Sale some overzealous Subie techs removed them pre-purchase. this was not advised by SOA. They were there when the cars left the factory.

 

Boost level is somewhat determined by knock/timing/fuel/etc. If using a stock turbo, a PW is major overkill. But, if it makes you feel better, its your money. You will most likely be able to (safely) tune to 18.5-19psi on stock fuel, stock turbo, PW. Might be able to eek 20psi for a quick second.

 

I gotta also try and locate the banjo bolts I got the repair manual so i can look it up. can they be cleaned or do they need replaced? if so do you have a part# for 08 leg GT 5eat Thanks msprank

[DerekDaniel]

If on a stock turbo all you really want to run is 18-19 anyways

 

Cool thanks dude I think I may ask my tuner to go 17.5 or 18psi to stay on the moderate side, and call it good.

[.Catalyst.]

Not saying the PW isn't a gorgeous unit or that lowering air temps is bad! I plan on having one someday myself.

 

Just saying that even with the PW - at 17+ psi you will blow some vac lines off. I used nylon dual locking zip ties torqued tight on all vac lines when I went stage 2 (currently 17.5psi). That or some small hose clamps rather than the weak little spring clamps will do wonders.

 

Also when you made the comment you didn't have money for a DP and bigger turbo I was sharing what the consensus typically is - bulletproof your OEM TMIC, get a used AVO or Perrin for $400, and invest in the DP and tune first. The DP upgrade with a tune is a great mod dollar for dollar power wise. Going with a badass TMIC is a supporting mod - typically for much larger turbos not stage 1 power levels.

[.Catalyst.]

I could not buy all of those parts you indicated for less than a PW tmic, as I do not put cheap stuff on my car. The Avo and perrin tmic are just bigger stock setups still sitting on the tutbo like a turd soaking up heat, unlike the PW set up. Also why does it matter that I upgrade my Tmic before my downpipe? I did not know there was a specific order to modifying a car.

There is logic to power related upgrades. Do what you want - I'm done trying to help. Spend your money as you please and do the same with your car.

[DerekDaniel]

I understand it does sound funky the route I am taking, and the possibility of still popping lines.

 

But I just figured if I got a down pipe it would add to heat and I would still be limited to the boost I could run with the stock tmic. Probably maxing out out at 17 psi on the safe side.

 

So I just went with the tmic, so I could still get decent boost and not have to worry about tmic going out because of higher boost levels and combat heat at same time. precautionary method I guess.

 

I hope blowing lines off is no longer and issue as I worm clamped and ziptied the hose under the manifold that goes bpv and hit up just about every other line with a clamp or zip tie.

 

Is there special zip ties by chance designed specifically for boost/vac or any other hose for that matter?

I am using some 8 inch electrical cable double lock zip ties but I do not know how they will hold up under heat in the long run.

[DerekDaniel]

There is logic to power related upgrades. Do what you want - I'm done trying to help. Spend your money as you please and do the same with your car.

 

Soon I will have a down pipe to go with the PW, just not yet this area was having issues, so I could justify the purchase with the wifey easier than a DP mod lol

[famaya26]

I'm totally confused by your logic. You are stage 1 - had a few lines pop off at around 17psi so rather than using clamps or such you bought a $1000 TMIC, a turbo inlet, EBCS, and CBE?

 

I highly recommend you do some more research or ask questions before buying anything. For what you spent on the PW alone you could have done a DP, tune, and found a used Perrin or AVO TMIC.

 

Blowing vac lines isn't fixed with another TMIC. Seems from your first post here that you aren't focusing on a new turbo, but your building your car as if it's going stage 3 within the week.

 

That or he could have BulletProofed his OEM TMIC by buying the kit from BarManBean and saved around $300. But thats just advice, its OP's money and he can do what ever he wants with it.

[m sprank]

Ok. I saw the stock DP and stopped reading. I admit. Floored. Um... stage 1 should be in the 16-16.5psi range. What is your advanced timing at peak boost? If you are dropping under double digits advanced timing, you need to drop boost and raise timing. you are loosing power. No way a PW is anywhere needed for a stage1 car. Should have spent the money on a down pipe and a Chinese knock off TMIC and you would be making far more power at this point for the same money.

 

I cannot believe I just recommended buying a Chinese knockoff TMIC. But man, for $1k spent you got a PW for a stage1??? $1k buys a lot of parts and power pre-stage2.

 

The forum is a good place to research before spending money. Plenty of helpful members, great threads to read and vendors willing to give recommendations based on real world and track experience.

[famaya26]

I myself was planning to go the PW route. I am stock, asked a couple questions on here. Searched around the site and came to conclusion that the PW was overkill for what I wanted. My VF-40 has 100,000 miles on it, I was looking to prevent leaks on the endtanks. Although the PW looks so clean! it wasnt worth spending 1k on just one mod. I ended up buying a used OEM TMIC with 40,000 miles and in the future will do the BulletProof mod followed by DP and Tune.

 

OP I know everyone says this a lot, but just search around. The members on here have a lot of experience in these cars.

[DerekDaniel]

I will get a stock Dp eventually but even if I had gotten it now, I believe i would have ran into problems with the stock tmic and not be able to get max power from it or have it kill the oem tmic faster, thus leading me to buy a tmic anyway.

 

I am not looking for the power gains that I know I can get from a down pipe at the moment. I understand everyone's logic of more power but i want to do it safely and not half ass it.

 

I do not want to have mods that are not going to reduce the longevity off my car or be restricted by another oem part, and since its a 5eat I am kinda worried about going stg 2 with down pipe and possibly having tranny problems due to much more power.

 

I personally do not think the other intercoolers are worth it for $200 less,

Had I put it on a cobb high flow DP now I do not believe It would be conducive with stock inter cooler, however when I am ready to get the down pipe I will already have a tmic that will be able to withstand it and get max gains from it and not worry about bullet proofing and all that other crap.

[DerekDaniel]

I cannot believe how many people are concerned about my financial status. never did I ask anyone for financial assistance or guidance. When it come to my car I put what i believe is the best product on it.

 

Now lets get back to the topic can I run 17 or 18 psi with this setup and not strain the stock turbo?

 

I will be happy at 17.5 psi of boost. compared to cobbs 14.5 and the shitty protune i had that was boosting at 16psi because the tuner said I could not run higher psi than that because my stock inter-cooler was not efficient enough for 17psi boost. This was another reason why I decided to upgrade the intercooler. Maybe he gave me some bad advice, which is most likely scenario considering he never tuned a legacy and I didn't find out until after. Now I am currently getting my car re-tuned and I am happy with the results so far but I dont think my stock tmic would handle 17 psi so i decided to upgrade to something that can to avoid future problems and to keep from having to reduce boost.

 

please dont shame me for choosing a slightly more expensive inter-cooler, so what if its overkill it will serve a bigger purpose someday. I thank you for your concern though.

[scoobydoobie]

I see nothing wrong.. You have future plans and are picking quality parts to go with. Personally I'm still on a VF40, had an AVO topmount previously (when I was stage 1...), now a RacerX FMIC that I want to swap out for a PW for longevity purposes. Stage 2+, all the bolt-ons, 19 psi, blah blah blah.

[famaya26]

Well sorry for trying to help you save money OP. FYI you can safely run 20 PSi on a OEM TMIC it just cost around $60 to do it.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/bulletproof-tmic-mod-lgt-08-wrx-158870.html

[DerekDaniel]

Yeah i saw the BP tmic sticky and thought about it and compared all other tmic and looked for used ones. Hands down nothing is better than PW in my opinion regardless if it is overkill, I cannot justify saving a couple hundred dollars on inferior products because they are not overkill. My car is my baby and deserves the best, and bar clamps and jb quik weld doesnt and other tmic didnt seem to give me peace of mind.

 

P.S. IF YOU LIVE IN KANSAS AND HAVE A LEGACY AND WANT TO GET A TUNE "DO NOT TAKE IT TO MODIFIED BY KC" YOU WILL BE SORRY. GO TO INFAMOUS AND YOU WILL BE HAPPY.

[famaya26]

ok what are your future plans for the car? Don't get me wrong, if I had the money, I would swap out my current TMIC with a PW in a heartbeat. I've read so much good things about it. Since you already go the PW might as we'll upgrade the Turbo.

[DerekDaniel]

Next step will be cobb catted downpipe probably in the spring and maybe a turbo sometime after that and thats probably as far as I will take it. and do some suspension mods.

 

I am not trying to have this thing a race car just enough to make it have some pep like my 07 wrx I had. I traded due to bad back from the army and the wrx clutch was like 30lbs and the seat was very uncomfortable, so I traded it for the legacy GT because better seats and automatic reduces all the herky jerky from a manual that exasperates my medical condition.

 

Driving a stock legacy GT was extremely disappointing coming from a stage 2 wrx hitting 17.5 psi boost. So I am trying to get they legacy up there in pep. I just happened to take an expensive and alternate approach. I am looking to get safe and acceptable gains while being careful not to go overboard in the power department, and prevent destroying the tranny.

[famaya26]

Why not an Invidia DP with Invidia CBE?