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Well I just wasted my time on this block!


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Are you aware of the cost associated with sleeving a block properly?

 

It'd cost you less to buy a new 257 shortblock.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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We don't have any shops close by that can magnaflux. We are out in the stix!

Enlighten me on the cost of sleeving this block and the cost of a new shortblock. What would the compression be on a new ej257 shortblock?

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What car is this for?

 

I assume you are going for big power with a sleeved build? Typical sleeve installs are ~$3000+ if done correctly.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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Sleeving would kind of be a waste then, huh?
[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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I don't understand why anyone who is in the process of rebuilding an engine and already had the block at a machine shop wouldn't take the extra step to see if there are any cracks. Knowing you had low to no compression in one cylinder it's a must. Everybody makes mistakes some just cost more then others.

Far as sleeping the block its not worth it, the cost isn't cheap and the blocks are easily available. GL.

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We didn't see any cracks and the shops around here don't have magnaflux capabilities. We are not a big city with unlimited resources. I found the crack after I finished cleaning it. Hindsight is 20/20 and I understand what you say but it didn't show up till after the bore and final cleaning. If we had the shops here that we used to have before everything went away I could have gotten it magnafluxed.

 

A waste to sleeve one cylinder in a block? Since it is not a high horsepower build I will find out the cost today and see if it is worth it. If not I might sell the whole project.

 

Will a 251 or 253 be a direct bolt up with sensors and everything?

 

Thanks for the thoughts.

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We didn't see any cracks and the shops around here don't have magnaflux capabilities. We are not a big city with unlimited resources. I found the crack after I finished cleaning it. Hindsight is 20/20 and I understand what you say but it didn't show up till after the bore and final cleaning. If we had the shops here that we used to have before everything went away I could have gotten it magnafluxed.

 

A waste to sleeve one cylinder in a block? Since it is not a high horsepower build I will find out the cost today and see if it is worth it. If not I might sell the whole project.

 

Will a 251 or 253 be a direct bolt up with sensors and everything?

 

Thanks for the thoughts.

 

You can't sleeve just one cylinder.

 

But if you could, it is unlikely your town has anyone capable of correctly installing a dry sleeve. It would turn you current $200 error into a several thousand dollar one.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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Will a 251 or 253 be a direct bolt up with sensors and everything?

 

Thanks for the thoughts.

 

No, it won't be compatible but I reckon that would be the only way to obtain a 251-253 block, which will be.

All you would have to do is swap your heads, sensors, & crankshaft gear/sprocket over, start up, & keep it moving.

 

For the 251-253-257, the thrust bearings are on #5 instead of #3.

If it has a 5th digit letter, it's Phase 1 & Phase 2 engines have 5th digit numbers.

For example, EJ25D is phase 1 while EJ251 is phase 2.

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You can't sleeve just one cylinder.

 

But if you could, it is unlikely your town has anyone capable of correctly installing a dry sleeve. It would turn you current $200 error into a several thousand dollar one.

 

Well since I called a shop about an hour away and they said they could sleeve one cylinder for about $125 to $150. So I guess I will take it up there and see. I don't quite understand why you couldn't sleeve one cylinder since it has sleeves in it anyway. Doesn't make sense.

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Well since I called a shop about an hour away and they said they could sleeve one cylinder for about $125 to $150. So I guess I will take it up there and see. I don't quite understand why you couldn't sleeve one cylinder since it has sleeves in it anyway. Doesn't make sense.

 

What will the new sleeve be made of?

Our "sleeves" have iron liners in them.

Will the sleeve be exactly the same as the others?

Also, the new sleeve would have to be bored & honed to the same exact size as the others & even then, all of the sleeves would need to be honed & bored together.

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i have a short block if you are interested, out of a 98 outback manual trans. the crank has ''end play''. but your crank and new bearings would correct that. i don't remember the miles off hand but they were low enough for me to save the block.

 

maybe swap seats at the same time.

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i have a short block if you are interested, out of a 98 outback manual trans. the crank has ''end play''. but your crank and new bearings would correct that. i don't remember the miles off hand but they were low enough for me to save the block.

 

maybe swap seats at the same time.

 

Terry Walters said he could fix mine but I will know more Thursday afternoon. I don't have all the seats out of the outback yet. Might need help getting one out cause pass rear door won't open. You may want to look at them first. I have the whole car too. Maybe we can discuss it Thursday. PM me your number so I can call you if Terry can't fix it. Is a 99 outback 2.5 a #5 thrust bearing location block?

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Is a 99 outback 2.5 a #5 thrust bearing location block?
no it's a 98, #3 thrust location i think.

 

i'll see if i can find the mileage info.

 

the rear seat bottom is held in by 2 bolts. on the floor in front of the seat, covered by carpet? and part of the hinge. the rear seat backs are held in by 3 bolts under the seat bottom (and maybe 3 bolts on the back side). the backs may separate during the removal, not a big deal.

 

the passenger door will make it more of a pain but should not prevent the removal.

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Hello;

Before you waste moe money, moe money, get another block! First thing, magnafluxing the block does not work on a aluminum! Leak detection is done by blacklight and dyes. A dry sleeve works only on a cylinder that is not leaking antifreeze. Welding will distort the block. I do motorcycle and automotive machining as a service, Steven.

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Hello;

Before you waste moe money, moe money, get another block! First thing, magnafluxing the block does not work on a aluminum! Leak detection is done by blacklight and dyes. A dry sleeve works only on a cylinder that is not leaking antifreeze. Welding will distort the block. I do motorcycle and automotive machining as a service, Steven.

 

It wasn't leaking antifreeze, just didn't have compression. The crack is not in the aluminum, not that I can see. If it is determined to not use this block I will talk to Johnegg about his. I already have a price locally for a 99 model but unsure if it is a # 3 or # 5 thrust position.

 

If it isn't too wet Thursday I will try to get the seats out.

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