96 Legacy transmission removal

[mdmonteton]

I will be changing transmissions in two weeks, but first I get to pull one from a yard close by. The drive to the nearest yard is 120 miiles so my question is does anyone have an actual required tools list for pulling a transmission on a 96 legacy L. I'd like to be prepared before I drive that far and while I have a large toolbox I'm taking with me, having any specialty tool already with me would be great.

 

Also any tips or tricks that some of you know would be great too.

[rdp2n]

Full disclosure right away -- I'm a novice at this, but my son and I did it a few weeks ago on a 1995. So you may well know more than I do! However:

If I were you, I would not go alone -- take a keen and beefy friend. And depending upon the setup, I would not go without a transmission jack, a floor jack, and a scissor jack -- just in case. Also, I would take a variety of wood scraps -- pieces of 2x4 and perhaps a board or 2. A board a half and inch thick, one foot by a foot and a half, for instance might be useful to keep the trans level as it's lowered.

You'll need to knock out the pins attaching each axle, so don't forget a hammer and a set of punches. I think the size you'll need is 3/16th. I have one and it works -- kinda -- but it's a bit too short -- so take a nail of similar diameter so you can knock it right through and out cleanly and not waste time.

There are 4 flex-plate bolts to remove through a hole in the engine housing. I think they are 10mm, so a small (1/4in) ratchet with 10mm socket and 3 inch extension might speed that along. And in case you need to retrieve bolts, a long magnetic retriever tool and grabber tools might come in handy.

Also, if I were you, I'd try and know in advance the strategy you'll use to get the trans out -- so you know what operations to do and roughly in what order. For example, how are the axles going to be pulled away from the trans? I went the long route and removed the balljoints (a huge PITA that I found I needed an inch-wide, foot long cold chisel for) -- but there are easier ways.

The electrical connections should be no problem (though one frustration I often have is encountering connections I'm unfamiliar with -- so you might want to take a look at what's in store by examining your own car). The rear connections are the prop shaft that will have to be removed (12mm bolts -- take a variety of wrenches because I found that there was no room for a socket to fit on those). The rear support bar bolts are 14mm (don't forget 2-3 breaker bars of various sizes!) and trans mounting nuts. Once the 3 housing bolts have been removed (1 at top, 2 at bottom), and the rear is free, it's a matter of easing the trans back off the 2 lower bolts extending from the engine housing, and onto the board and tranny jack. Space is very tight, so you'll have to be careful you don't get it jammed against the firewall/well on the way down. So for this purpose, I'd remove the trans oil level pipe at the side -- and while you're about it, drain the oil from the pan, as well -- so take a drain pan, empty containers and funnel. And there are female electrical connections on the front/top that are slotted into a metal clip. I'd slide those back off the clip and take of the black air vent hoses, too. If you leave them on, they'll stand up proud and may foul on the firewall/well as you work the thing back and down.

So once it's free pull it back off the studs on the engine and onto the trans. It will be sitting on the subframe lip at the front. At this stage an second pair of eyes and hands is important (and maybe a yard-long pry bar, too, to persuade it away from the engine housing). We found that to balance the trans, the trans jack had to be right under the trans drain pan. So then it's a matter of pulling the thing an inch or 2 further from the engine followed by an inch or 2 lowering at the back -- making sure that it doesn't get jammed at any point (we kept gently wiggling it from side to side).

Then, eventually it'll be free of the frame and free to be lowered on the trans jack.

IMHO, planning here would be very important. Make sure you take away all necessary tackle with you (bolts, nuts, gear changer on passenger side of unit) so you don't have expenses and wasted time when you get it home. I've just relived the experience, and if you do an "advanced" search for my threads (rdp2n), you may find some interesting comments from the Subaru cognoscente (not me!) -- e.g.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/transmission-removal-do-you-need-special-toolsi-177890.html?t=177890

Like I say, I've just been through this. Take it slowly, don't rush, be safe. Be ready to move quickly sideways and away in case it falls, and don't get caught behind it in case it tips backwards. Also, if I were you I might plan on staying overnight if necessary.

 

HTH,

 

 

Rob

[rdp2n]

Of course, if you haven't already done so, I suggest you download the PDF service manual for your car, print out the relevant bits and take it with you:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/legacy-service-and-owners-manual-free-download-104203.html?t=104203

 

And heavy gloves for all participants would be a good idea, too ...