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This is the month to start considering your Winter Detailing prep...


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September is the last good month of the year for a lot of us. October comes and it is raining every other day and the temperature just fluctuates too much. In my case I usually get snow by the end of the month and November is just as bad. September is when I start the Winter Detailing prep work for my vehicles. In fact, from September through May I am closed for any and all new business for detailing. Only my loyal regulars get work done since the work usually takes longer and I can't stack as many cars in one day as when it is just a summer maintenance type deal. Winter detail prep is something that is best done in September when the weather is still nice and winter is just right around the corner.

 

Here are a few things to consider for your winterization of your daily driver this season.

 

-Wheels: I like to take the wheels off and put a coat of sealant on them. It gives me a chance to scrub them good and hard and get them really clean before they are pounded by months of neglect while being covered in salt. My sealant of choice is Klasse simply because of how durable it is. You can use any sealant you have handy. Just avoid the waxes. They just don't last very long. Chances are it won't last through September if you did it now, so skip the wax and go for a sealant.

 

-Paint: The Fall Detail means clay bar, polish, and sealant. Get the tree sap off and get rid of the swirls by claying and polishing the paint. Then get a good sealant on there to protect it from the salt and grossness of what is going to be slung up by your tires over the next few months. If you are using Klasse then I recommend at least 3 coats over a period of a few days for maximum shine and protection. In fact, with any sealant I would absolutely recommend more than one coat. Unlike a wax, which just blends layers together when you apply them, sealants cure on the surface and can be layered. Most sealants require 24 hours of cure time between coats, but some include a cure accelerator in them which eliminates the cure time. Wolfgang and 4*Ultimate are a couple of those sealants. I'm not sure about the new Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax. I'd give it a day between coats just to be on the safe side.

 

Windows: Don't use paint products on your windows. There are products like RainX and Aquapel out there for a reason. Coat your glass with them to create a surface where water beads up and zips off from when you are driving. A fresh coat of RainX will even cause your windows to freeze at lower temperatures. I did a test once to try and demo an ice scraper and I couldn't get my windows to freeze overnight to save my life. I don't know if it was just super dry or what, but it wouldn't work. I had to spray water on the glass with a spray bottle and try to demonstrate it that way, but it just froze into little beads of ice. Glass treatments are awesome in the winter.

 

Exterior trim: Wolfgang has a new trim sealant that I'm dying to try out this winter. Right now there isn't anything i've found to avoid the salt stains and just generally nasty look that areas like the wiper cowl and step guards on vehicles get during the winter. I'll be hopefully picking a bottle of this up soon and will let you know. For now I can just suggest you keep them protected with a good product like Aerospace 303.

 

Tires: Yeah, not much you can do there either. Just keep em clean when you can and shine them up if you get a chance and there is a break in the weather. I typically don't do much for my tires during the winter because nothing really helps which is out there right now.

 

Carpets: They get nasty with salt in the winter and I don't know what to tell you. Get winter mats if you can, but otherwise just keep your mats clean by vacuuming them when you get a chance and kicking the snow off your feet before getting in. Your washing machine is your friend. Throw your mats in there every couple months and they'll stay looking a lot cleaner. I know someone who puts packing tape around the edges of his mats in the winter since those areas are the hardest to clean. Not a bad idea... Not pretty, but better than having salt encrusted borders on your floor mats.

 

Leather: Winter doesn't really affect leather, but it does affect leather conditioner. When the leather is frozen you can't get the conditioner to soak in. It is best to condition your leather when the conditioner is warmed up and your car is warmed up. Don't try doing that in temperatures below 40 or you'll just waste product and make a mess.

 

There are a few products you may want to bring in from the garage during the winter. Your sealants will probably be fine, and your waxes will be even better. Since tire shine doesn't work when it is cold, you might want to bring that in though. In fact, anything meant to clean anything should be brought indoors. Freezing does something funny to cleaners. Other than that, you shouldn't have to worry much.

 

Oh, don't forget to polish your exhaust tips. It likely won't get done for the next four or five months, so you might as well start out with a clean one. A little chrome polish, or even paint polish, and a rag will do wonders. You can use paint sealant on them afterwards, but the heat will probably vaporize it after not long. Your best bet is just to stay on top of it. A little glass cleaner and a towel will do the trick if you stay on top of it.

 

Hopefully this has been of some use. I know not everybody is as nutty as I am about car care, but my cars are among the top five most expensive things I've ever bought in my life, so they sort of fit high on the priority list of taking care of them. ;) Unless your car was given to you, then you are probably in the same boat. I don't know many things other than your house and your education that you are going to drop twenty or thirty thousand dollars on and use every single day. I will say that your vehicle represents an investment of money, and if you want to see as much of that investment come back to you someday when you sell it, then caring for it in this way is a great idea. :)

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“Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.”

O C D E T A I L S . C O M

OCDETAILS BLOG

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Sounds like a pretty good plan.

Question about the clay, i thought about running it over the car before winter hits, but i was wondering if the small paint chips would be an issue? My car has lots of little rock dings and until i get a better job i can't afford to get it touched up for the time being.

I just didn't know if the clay would cause any issues with maybe catching paint edges or anything like that.

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Not usually. Clay is pretty soft, so the worst that would happen is you might get some clay stuck in the chip. The same hazard holds true for when you polish or wax. Rock chips are always getting full of crud.

 

However, on the topic of rock chips I will say that I have far fewer rock chips since I found Dr. Colorchip as reviewed in this forum somewhere. That stuff is awesome! It totally solved some chip issues for me much easier than any other method I'm familiar with. I'll post a review of my own one of these days. I'm just lazy when it comes to organizing the pictures to a coherent article sometimes.

_________________________________________

“Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.”

O C D E T A I L S . C O M

OCDETAILS BLOG

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"wax" is a term people are familiar with. You don't have enough space on the bottle to educate the average consumer about the difference between sealants and waxes, so they just call it a wax. It does do a good job too, so you made a good choice. Durability isn't out of this world or anything, but it is better than your traditional carnauba wax for sure.

 

Ultima Tire and Trim guard is something I haven't tried yet. I always say that if you have something that works for you then there is no reason to change. The important thing is to keep the surfaces protected, so I don't care if applesauce ends up being the best product for the job. ;) If it works then I'll use it.

_________________________________________

“Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.”

O C D E T A I L S . C O M

OCDETAILS BLOG

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  • 4 weeks later...

I've started my fall detailing and noticed I've got some funky mildew/growth on the black external trim that's dark brown/black in color.

 

Really need to scrub to take it off. Is there a product out there that won't damage the paint or discolor the trim that can help remove it?

 

Thinking of using an old scrubbing kitchen sponge so I won't fill the washing mitts with crap, and also help target just the trim and not the paint.

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Here's the thing on clay bars. Clay is a patented product which is only made by two manufacturers. For the stuff you get off the shelf it is mostly made by the same place. Meguiar's uses 'plastic' clay, but Mothers, Clay Magic, and Turtle Wax use 'elastic' clay. The Turtle Wax clay bar I bought a few weeks ago is actually really nice. I like it a lot. Typically I stick with Clay Magic (autozone carries it) but Mothers or Turtle Wax clay works too. I really haven't found to many differences from one clay to another, so I'd do whatever your wallet tells you to do if you have choices. ;)

 

Beanboy, I'd have to see pictures of what you are talking about to be able to really say what to use. It definitely sounds funky...

_________________________________________

“Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.”

O C D E T A I L S . C O M

OCDETAILS BLOG

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my car went thru 3 years of college ski trips every weekend, even with rubber mats, my interior is trashed. I dont really care too much, I just wish it didnt smell like a wet fart from all the beers that were spilled in the back seat:lol:
"Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left."
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OCD.. what do you think of the clay that Griots sells?

 

It is the same thing as Clay Magic for the most part. The nice thing about private labeled clay is that you can get 200g bars for relatively inexpensive. Honestly, just go for whichever clay is the least expensive. The only difference I've ever seen from one clay to the next is how aggressive it is and how well it holds up to getting wet. Most clay is medium grade and will work fine for everything. They make some really really light grade clay (turtle wax seems to be lighter grade clay) and some that is really aggressive like the Meguiar's overspray clay (it is red, so you can't miss it). Generally the clay you buy is going to be medium grade unless otherwise stated on the package, and that is going to be pretty much the same thing across the board.

_________________________________________

“Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.”

O C D E T A I L S . C O M

OCDETAILS BLOG

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I'm looking at doing a clay, polish and then wax. I'm thinking I might do the Mequiar's ultimate is there much of a difference between the paste and the liquid?

 

This past weekend I clayed, polished, then used a paint sealant on my car. Let me tell you, best thing I ever did. My vehicle is only 2 years old, so clay did some, not a ton. But the polish with an orbital polisher made an absolute huge difference. And the sealant is keeping the car look just washed even though it has rained here for three days straight now. No more wax for me except as an overcoat inbetween sealing the paint. Seriously, consider using a sealant, not a wax. You wont regret it.

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Saturday, I washed my car.. twice. Tried to cut corners and started to use Nufinish on the hood. The new applicator pad got dark very quick. WTF, my car is clean.. maybe not. Then I remembered this thread and ran my hand across the hood.. felt some grit. F this.. lets do it right. Bought a Meguiars clay kit and washed again and clayed it yesterday. Instant Smooooth. :)Then I hit it with Meguiars liquid cleaner wax and the random orbital buffer with a new terry bonnet. Couldnt stop saying "WOW". This is the first car I clayed, was super easy and quick to do and made a huge difference in the end result. Gonna follow up this weekend with another wash and NuFinish. Using Nufinish as my sealer because I already have it and plan to slap another coat or two on before the 1st snow here in North Jersey.

Love this thread.. pointed me in the right direction. Thanks for posting OCDetails

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Saturday, I washed my car.. twice. Tried to cut corners and started to use Nufinish on the hood. The new applicator pad got dark very quick. WTF, my car is clean.. maybe not. Then I remembered this thread and ran my hand across the hood.. felt some grit. F this.. lets do it right. Bought a Meguiars clay kit and washed again and clayed it yesterday. Instant Smooooth. :)Then I hit it with Meguiars liquid cleaner wax and the random orbital buffer with a new terry bonnet. Couldnt stop saying "WOW". This is the first car I clayed, was super easy and quick to do and made a huge difference in the end result. Gonna follow up this weekend with another wash and NuFinish. Using Nufinish as my sealer because I already have it and plan to slap another coat or two on before the 1st snow here in North Jersey.

Love this thread.. pointed me in the right direction. Thanks for posting OCDetails

Clay is a great and easy product. Although, won't the NuFinish take off the Meg's wax you just applied? I think you need a non-cleaner sealant.

2011 Volvo S60T6 & 2013 Volvo XC60T6 Polestar

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I used the Meguiars cleaner wax as my polish, worked very well. Stuff never lasted too long to begin with, so if Nufinish strips it off, no problem.

 

I think what he was saying is that you can't layer NuFinish. It removes each layer beneath it, so you can't layer it.

_________________________________________

“Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.”

O C D E T A I L S . C O M

OCDETAILS BLOG

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My cousin just recently applied Opti-Seal to his cars for the winter season. Do you have any experience with that OCD? How was the durability? My cousin's a fanatic about stuff like this too.... he said that he found that NXT's durability isn't so great (DOH!! that's what I use) and only lasts a few months at best.

 

Supposedly Opti-Seal is supposed to last a lot longer? He also mentioned it's a million times easier to apply than any sort of wax or sealant like NXT.

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