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oh no, whats goin on


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so I removed some of the FMIC piping to apply the spray on bed liner stuff over the metal I trimmed. Put everything back together. start the car and let it warm up while I posted in the "what did you do your your fourth gen today" thread. come back outside, get in the car. and pull out of the driveway and get into boost to make sure I don't have any leaks. I hit full boost, 18, and then the motor died. Really quickly.

 

Pulled over, tried to turn the car over again. Started right up, and died. If I tap the gas with my foot while its on, it will stay running for a few more seconds and then die. I'm trying to retrace my steps here.

 

All of the piping is on as it should be. The car hit full boost as I was pulling out of my driveway. There are no funny noises or CELs on when I get the car running, until it eventually dies seconds later. Car has oil in it.

"Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left."
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If this ever happens when you are in the middle of no where - you can disconnect the maf and the car will run fine - just don't drive it hard.

 

Great trick when you need to limp it somewhere.

 

thanks spec, I was thinkin that might do the trick. I'm gonna do this tomorrow and limp it into the driveway. i cant believe i didnt tighten down that t clamp, jesus.

 

Dug the motorcycle out of the back of the garage to get home. it had been sitting for 5 months. cranked for about 20 seconds until the carbs filled up with gas. fired right up. love that damn thing.

"Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left."
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So you had to play....did you ever hear the saying, if it ain't broke don't fix it.

 

So it sounds like you got it running again.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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So you had to play....did you ever hear the saying, if it ain't broke don't fix it.

 

So it sounds like you got it running again.

 

i know i know:rolleyes: Mike (m sprank) put up a thread on how he sprayed the trimmed metal with that stuff so he inspired me to do it. Its a good idea, but I still blame him:lol:

"Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left."
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Bailing on dinner with the girlfriend's parents because a car you work on yourself broke down does not leave a good impression on them. Trust me.
[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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i know i know:rolleyes: Mike (m sprank) put up a thread on how he sprayed the trimmed metal with that stuff so he inspired me to do it. Its a good idea, but I still blame him:lol:

 

You know it's a lot easier to do it right the 1st time:spin:;):lol: . It should of looked something like mine. Before you start you install of new FMIC.:rolleyes::)

 

Cut, clean, clamp, tack weld, weld, clean up weld & then paint.

More pics. http://s99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/#!cpZZ2QQtppZZ36

 

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/0924111013a.jpghttp://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/0924110823.jpg

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/0924111517.jpg

Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold

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^^^ dammit you guys are ruthless!:lol:

 

ya if i did it before i was working around the piping it would be much nicer. but your black paint vs. my white, not a fair matchup:)

"Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left."
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either a deep socket ket or ratcheting wrenches should be REQUIRED for that install. jesus i wasted so much time of my life doing this with standard wrenches.
"Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left."
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Not trying to be ruthless. HAMMERDOWN took it to the next freaking level with his chassis weld mods (looks oem btw, well done).

 

Methinks paintpollz needs to spring for a set of metric racheting box wrenches, a set of metric deep sockets and a 20-100 torque wrench and all the extensions and knuckles he can shake a stick at to make his life easier.

 

If you have a RacerX you should have a 10mm deep socket on a rachet somewhere in the car. This is NOT a RacerX knock. This is a practical decision about having a fmic in a tmic car that has a lot of couplers that all happen to be 10mm and have threads too long for shallow sockets. A $5-10 investment at an autoparts store can avoid so much pain.

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In that vain, it's a good idea to have a small assortment of common tools in the back of the car. A 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, and 19mm set of wrenches and a couple of good screwdrivers will allow you to do nearly any side-of-the-road repair.
[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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I will say having a deep 10mm and ratcheting wrenches is a necessity with a front mount.. My old Bug-eye used to blow the tubes quite a bit, it was infamous for blowing the throttle tube under high boost (over 20psi). So needless to say rain, snow or shine be prepared to tighten those down, its not a bad idea to feel around on fill-ups if your heavy footed like some of us.. :lol:
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