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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Guide To Swapping to LED Turn Signal Relay

 

Guide applies to both simple LED flasher relay and TapTurn/SmartTap smart modules

Since an LED bulb draws so much less power than a halogen, it makes the car think the bulb is burnt out, causing your turn signals to blink extra fast. This relay fixes that issue. 81980-50030 is the basic relay you can use for this, which you can find here-> Simple LED Relay

 

Guide Pictures

 

Walkthrough

 

Credit to testa422 for walking me through this the first time.

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  • 5 months later...

Just want to put this somewhere to archive it. Thanks to Captain Ned for the info.

 

VF54 Turbo coolant pipes.

 

Had the turbo coolant lines replaced today. I'd show you pics of the dead ones, but when the tech went to take them apart they basically collapsed into rusty dust in his hand. I was one good pothole away from a total coolant loss and turbo burn-up. Oi!!

 

My LGT has (had, now traded) 142K miles and 6 VT winters. Anyone here who lives in winter salted-road territory should brave a trip to the dealer to have the turbo coolant lines inspected. The engine you save may be your own. These are the special order parts needed to do the job, and they take about 3-4 weeks to come in:

 

14430AA220          PIPE COMPLETE-TURBO,NO.2        1
14472AA250          HOSE ASSEMBLY-WATER             1
14480AA010          CONNECTOR-TURBOCHARGER  PIPE    1
15194AA100          SCREW-UNION                     2
803912040           GASKET                          4
803912130           GASKET-12.5X17X2                1

Just in case, that last figure is the quantity needed. Got a couple of PMs asking about it, so just making sure

 

 

 

And if you decide to go with the alternative, the Kinugawa kit, you need the extra Subaru spacer. Thanks Shadow_419.

 

Connector turboo pipe 14480AA010

Turbo 6AN Water Coolant Line Kit M12x1.25 mm TD02 TD03 TD04 banjo type 320-12001-015

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  • 4 weeks later...

LGT Spark Plug Replacement

 

- special thanks to minuccims for this thread and the contributors that added great info.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/lgt-spark-plug-replacement-171731.html?highlight=spark+plug

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  • 4 weeks later...

DIY Rear Chassis Ground

 

Thanks to covertrussian for this.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5699116&postcount=91

 

 

This is why it is preventative maintenance....

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5698652&postcount=86

 

Refering to your bearings damage....

 

From what I know... it similar like the "Stray Current Bearing Damage" issue in electric motor

 

http://www.ecmweb.com/content/bearing-current-problems-causes-symptoms-and-solutions

 

Even I am aware about this "stay current" issue.. I did not expect this would happen to car wheel bearing as well....

 

By the way... thanks for sharing this info on bearing failure...

 

e28ebb6e9c765405dfbd0b2405f1bfab.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

 

I believe it is similar to "Stray Current Bearing Damage" too, but our fluting is not quite as consistent as an electric motor's. Though this could be because we don't run our wheels at same speed all the time.

 

It's an interesting phenomenon, when I first read the theory I laughed and chucked it off, but after having to replace two rear and one front wheel bearing on my LGT at ~100k, I regrounded my whole car. My one left front lasted another 40k, and I recently replaced it for good measure :lol:.

 

I think our high throw out bearing failure is related to this too. If you think about it, stray current would be going through it from the engine to the transmission.

 

 

 

 

 

For those that are curious, that's referring to my 2014 thread when I first discovered this issue: Bad Grounds Can Lead to Wheel Bearing Failure

 

I agree with you.... the stray current phenomenon in constant speed induction AC electric motor may not 100% applicable to our bearing failure...

 

In AC electric motor.. the worn damage cavities (that look like welding on the bearing inner race circurmference) is in full circurmference of bearing inner race... whereas in your wheel bearing the damage is on the opposite (not full circurmference).

 

One thing that might contribute to this.... could be the atmospheric environment as well... I see on your photo.. a lot of corrosion throughout the whole places on your car...

 

The car was built 2012 right? Mine 2012 LGT BM9 with 7+,+++km, but mine doesn't have any sort of that kind corrosion issue.. event my 1993 Civic EG3 is same too. I live in tropical climate always 3+degC with dry humidity & not near to the beach.

 

Therefore.... I believe atmospheric condition (temp variation between season, humidity, present of salty environment) really play significant roles with corrossion + your bearing failure...

 

Bear in mind...if we refer to corrosion engineering point of view:

 

1) In salty + humid environment the air become conductive for electrolisis process (similar to battery concept)

 

2) Plus with 2 disimilar material/metal joint/touching each other (in our case... bearing & its housing)

 

3) The resultant could result the same phenomenon as anodic/galvanic corrosion

 

Refer to this article at the bottom page:

 

http://www.dootalk.com/forums/topic/1292626-very-good-read-on-bearing-failures/

 

c83ad1fed3cd07150658c2df460f03f0.jpg9d1ea7725084a09b543ff7e6a9c654bb.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

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