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-   -   What would you do? (http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=200452)

pleaidestar 01-30-2013 07:57 PM

Can't you check for knock even by disconnecting your fuel injectors one by one to hear the tone to determine which cylinder its in...subaru 2.2's run surprisingly well on 3 cylinders..I wish I didn't know that, but I had an experience once.......

Tr00b 02-01-2013 12:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DOHCEJ22E1 (Post 4267368)
You can get whatever year EJ22 block that you want to put in, if it has to come down to that. Just use the 222 crank gear & you're all set to go. Of course head gaskets, rear main, & oil separator seals will have to be done. The power between the 22E & the 222 is very little.

Me don't speak EJ... So you are saying any long block engine will work, and short block and my current heads will work? If there is a link explaining this that would be cool... I heard from someone else that you can just swap the intake manifold onto any style 2.2 and good to go. What engine do I have, 22E or 222?

The junkyard older motor is looking like the best option, there are plenty of those around, just no specific 1999's.

http://www.jdmtigerjapanese.com/suba...x-sti-98.html#

I know this sounds f'ing crazy, but wouldn't that be pretty much bolt in? If you can pay the price aren't these a pretty sure bet?

DOHCEJ22E1 02-01-2013 07:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tr00b (Post 4273294)
Me don't speak EJ... So you are saying any long block engine will work, and short block and my current heads will work? If there is a link explaining this that would be cool... I heard from someone else that you can just swap the intake manifold onto any style 2.2 and good to go. What engine do I have, 22E or 222?

The junkyard older motor is looking like the best option, there are plenty of those around, just no specific 1999's.

http://www.jdmtigerjapanese.com/suba...x-sti-98.html#

I know this sounds f'ing crazy, but wouldn't that be pretty much bolt in? If you can pay the price aren't these a pretty sure bet?

Your 99 is a 222 (Phase 2) which means that you would have to swap over your heads & crank gear to the 22E block. The 22E longblock is incompatible with the ECU in your car.
The shortblock can be swapped over with no issues but if you're going through that trouble, just look for a 222 shortblock & get it if you can find it.

johnegg 02-01-2013 09:56 AM

and sdince the 99 is a phase 2 ej222, i'm pretty sure you can also swap in a ej25 sohc. you would have to use your cam, crank, and intake but that is easy.

Tr00b 02-02-2013 10:07 AM

The car started at -10 didn't knock at all ran and idled perfectly fine. Second time I started it after driving around awhile it had some knock once it got warm. This morning again it ran pretty good and quiet. It is a.diagnostic nightmare. There is no rhyme or reason to it and not knowing.anything.for sure drives me nuts.

So... i am still looking for an engine. 2.2 phase twos came in 1999 to 00 imprezas..any others?. if i find a 2.5 sohc can i avoid swapping a ton of parts by swapping the ecu as well? What cars did it come in?

johnegg 02-02-2013 11:50 AM

2.5 sohc 00 - 04 in all cars.

except:
99 lego , ej22
99 - 00 impreza, ej22
01 - 04 outbacks, LLBean and VDC w/ H6

and the stuff you have to swap is very minor compared to pulling the engine.
and never swap the ECU unless you swap the harness. it may work just fine w/o the harness swap but it may not.
for the 4 cylinder engines the ECU / harness match is more important than the ECU / engine match.

DOHCEJ22E1 02-02-2013 10:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tr00b (Post 4275052)
The car started at -10 didn't knock at all ran and idled perfectly fine. Second time I started it after driving around awhile it had some knock once it got warm. This morning again it ran pretty good and quiet. It is a.diagnostic nightmare. There is no rhyme or reason to it and not knowing.anything.for sure drives me nuts.

So... i am still looking for an engine. 2.2 phase twos came in 1999 to 00 imprezas..any others?. if i find a 2.5 sohc can i avoid swapping a ton of parts by swapping the ecu as well? What cars did it come in?

For the most part, the 222 & the 251 are completely identical so if they are different in any way, the changes to be made are as follows:

Swap crank gears, intake manifolds w/wiring harness, sensors, & cam gears from 222 to 251.

Done.

That 251 will fire up just as if it were a 222 & the ECU will notice & adjust for the changes made.

The likewise is also possible for 251 guys who want to have 222s (I have not heard or seen this yet).

Tr00b 02-05-2013 12:09 AM

Thanks very much for the info on the motors. I've been looking for one thats reasonably priced, close enough to pick up. Not having much luck yet, called on a couple but they hadn't unlisted them yet they were sold.

What is a good price to pay for a motor? What is a safe bet on miles?

The car stumbled and killed while accelerating from a stoplight and stumbled several other times today. Revving the engine, I have what sounds like Vtec/rattling that kicks in 1800 to 3500. Its again, not consistent. But I am pretty sure I have main bearing slop. The harder and faster you change throttle position the harder it rattles and the more it tends to stumble, setting off the knock sensor.

Its going to make me sound bad, but I really don't want to mess with the motor unless a good deal comes up soon... I'm looking at trading it off.

DOHCEJ22E1 02-05-2013 06:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tr00b (Post 4278688)
Thanks very much for the info on the motors. I've been looking for one thats reasonably priced, close enough to pick up. Not having much luck yet, called on a couple but they hadn't unlisted them yet they were sold.

What is a good price to pay for a motor? What is a safe bet on miles?

The car stumbled and killed while accelerating from a stoplight and stumbled several other times today. Revving the engine, I have what sounds like Vtec/rattling that kicks in 1800 to 3500. Its again, not consistent. But I am pretty sure I have main bearing slop. The harder and faster you change throttle position the harder it rattles and the more it tends to stumble, setting off the knock sensor.

Its going to make me sound bad, but I really don't want to mess with the motor unless a good deal comes up soon... I'm looking at trading it off.

At this point, you should stop driving it before you throw a rod.
And good engines with low miles range anywhere from $400-$1200.
You just have to know where to look & www.car-part.com is a start.

Tr00b 02-05-2013 09:03 AM

Ok... Quit driving it...

Contacted someone on an ej22t block, if it has a good bottom end might be worth the extra work.

Otherwise surfing car-part.com thanks for the tip!

The rattling though is NOT the same as the knock in the vids.

Tr00b 02-05-2013 02:24 PM

Ok, ej22t block has 232k on it and was taken from a junkyard car with a bad trans. Guy says crosshatching is still visible. I assume that is good and perhaps the engine is rebuilt? I want to put that in so i can slowly build up to a turbo setup. Any input on that?

Should I take the car to the local Subaru pro and have them take a look at the noise?

monkeyposeur 02-05-2013 06:05 PM

Your compression will be a lot lower with the 22T lower end. You will have one slow car until you turbo it. Plus adding a turbo is going to be a lot of extra work. Wiring, exhaust, crossmember, etc. etc.

How much does he want for the block? I'd buy it and hold onto it anyway until you get ready to do a monster build, lol. What else would come with it? Heads, etc.?

The cross hatching doesn't mean the engine has been rebuilt. It just means the bores are still good and looks like it did from the factory. Chances are it hasn't since the 22Ts can run for a long time. Unless of course it blows a HG like mine days after I bought it.

Tr00b 02-05-2013 08:04 PM

500 bucks. Seems to be just the short block. Imo too much. What did you pay for yours?

How bad would the compression power loss be any idea?

monkeyposeur 02-05-2013 08:23 PM

One of my 22Ts is in my SS. The other one I pulled from a neighbors touring wagon. I asked if I could have it an they told me that the scrap man was on his way so I better hurry. I had it pulled in 20 or 30 minutes lol.

500 isn't too bad for the shortblock considering people sell the block halves for $700-800.

I'm not sure about the actual compression numbers. I read an engine build thread where Fuji K swapped in a 22T bottom end with no turbo and he said it was way slower than his n/a 22T. I've seen the compression numbers of a 22T before but I don't remember them exactly. I should know, lol.

edit: Compression on a stock 22T is 7.8:1. Not sure how that would change with your heads.

Tr00b 02-05-2013 11:03 PM

Thanks monkey... I think I'll pass on the turbo block. Thats alot of money to toss at something that could be a pile of poop and I could spend quite awhile without turbo parts...

Part of my house is collapsing from snow load damage and half of the house has to get demo'd to fix it. They start like the 1st of March demoing which includes the garage, so I have a limited time to make a decision because I lose my garage and all spare time for 4 months.

Spent a whole hour with the mechanics stethoscope hoping for some kind of diagnostic miracle... the rattling noise from the bottom end has not changed that much since I first tested it in December before I did the timing belt. As I mentioned earlier, some days its not that bad, others she's really rough.

I've decided... I'm taking the car to the local Subaru gurus to look at.


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