Installed Perrin Up-pipe, after pulling downpipe, bad news

[-Samurai-]

So I ordered a catless Perrin up-pipe, and it came in the mail I was happier than ever. Went to install it today after pulling the downpipe I thought I'd check the shaft play on the ol' turbo and just as I felt it my heart sunk. It probably moved side to side at least 1/2 a cm and in and out maybe a few milimeters. Its definately shot... No oil was leaking out of it and it didnt burn any obscene amount of oil that would make a differece in the oil levels. So It must just barely be hanging on right now. I can not beleive it was not blown by now. Anyways I'm sure you all hearn enough stories about that...

 

My question is that I was not able to find much info on here about was aftermarket OEM spec direct bolt on turbos. I can find them for around 400-550 brand new, then looking at OEM IHI's around 1200. I dont haver the cash to be dropping on an OEM IHI. But does anyone have any experience with other offbrand OEM spec turbos that carry the VF40 specs? They have 1 year warranties and such but im still kinda iffy on them. If they have worked great for others I wont feel so worried about buying it and installing the new turbo ASAP!

 

Any help guys, please! I need my car back. I'll still be driving it to work, luckily I work about a mile and half away from home. I will not be driving any distance till a new turbo.

[Screamin]

Doesn't seem like much play to me. I've watched some vids of "no shaft play" and with no oil pressure there is a very slight movement to the shaft.

 

I could be wrong though, this is my first turbo car. My last 3 were LSx NA and nitrous Camaro's.

[BarManBean]

Doesn't seem like much play to me. I've watched some vids of "no shaft play" and with no oil pressure there is a very slight movement to the shaft.

 

I could be wrong though, this is my first turbo car. My last 3 were LSx NA and nitrous Camaro's.

 

If it's actually 1/2 cm side to side that's a lot, and anything "in and out" is pretty bad--AFAIK it shouldn't have that type of movement even without oil pressure.

 

OP, sounds like your best bet is to pick up a lightly used VF40/VF46 in the classified. They can typically be had for $250-$400 and you won't need a tune. Anything else that is aftermarket will really require a tune to go with it.

[-Samurai-]

Doesn't seem like much play to me. I've watched some vids of "no shaft play" and with no oil pressure there is a very slight movement to the shaft.

 

I could be wrong though, this is my first turbo car. My last 3 were LSx NA and nitrous Camaro's.

 

Yeah from what I've researched on before I even checked my own (never had a reason to till now) But yeah as much as it moves is definately not healthy. Odd as it doesnt make wierd noise and no codes are being thrown.

 

If it's actually 1/2 cm side to side that's a lot, and anything "in and out" is pretty bad--AFAIK it shouldn't have that type of movement even without oil pressure.

 

OP, sounds like your best bet is to pick up a lightly used VF40/VF46 in the classified. They can typically be had for $250-$400 and you won't need a tune. Anything else that is aftermarket will really require a tune to go with it.

 

I was thinking of buying a rebuilt factory VF40. The case is used but the bearing cartridge is brand new and computer balanced the seller says. About 10 pics of it and the thing looks literally brand new. He's asking $550 for it no core charge. What do you think?

[-Samurai-]

Side note:

 

Whats the part numbers for each side of the stock TMI (new for new turbo install)?

 

Part numbers for the copper banjo bolt washers/coolant? Are they different?

[ehsnils]

You discovered that it was bad before it blew up - that's good. The bad thing is the money you need to get a new turbo. On the other hand you will have a good core for rebuild so the old turbo isn't completely worthless.

 

Maybe you should look at a twin scroll turbo?

 

And 1/2cm is bad... I'm surprised that it hadn't died yet.

[bigjweb]

If it's actually 1/2 cm side to side that's a lot, and anything "in and out" is pretty bad--

 

Is there even a 1/2 a cm of space in between the housing and the fins?

[-Samurai-]

You discovered that it was bad before it blew up - that's good. The bad thing is the money you need to get a new turbo. On the other hand you will have a good core for rebuild so the old turbo isn't completely worthless.

 

Maybe you should look at a twin scroll turbo?

 

And 1/2cm is bad... I'm surprised that it hadn't died yet.

 

Im pretty new to turbos, whats a twin scroll? And yes I am very glad I didnt blow the turbo not knowing it was bad. I was lucky to find it now. Does anyone know anyone that buy core's to rebuild them? Because I dont think I'll be rebuilding mine. Just replacing.

 

And yes I am VERY surprised its still holding on for dear life...

 

Is there even a 1/2 a cm of space in between the housing and the fins?

 

When I'm able to push it in then move it side to side yep definitely feels like it...

[fahr_side]

Is there even a 1/2 a cm of space in between the housing and the fins?

Depends how bashed up the turbine is eh?

 

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a74/chruisser/b5073613.jpg

[Oregon OBXT]

1/2 cm is huge for a tight tolerance device! Although your perception of 1/2 cm may not actually be 1/2 cm.

 

Was it really not giving any signs? As in bad noises?

 

 

Check BNR 16G. They're OEM pnp for a very reasonable price.

[BarManBean]

Bryan at BNR also has VF40 rebuilds for a reasonable price--if you are going to go that route, no reason to go anywhere else. He really seems to support his products within this community.

[Max Capacity]

http://www.6starspeed.com has rebuilt turbos.

 

You may want a new oil return line too.

 

The crush washers are different sizes.

 

While getting the washers at the dealer pick up 5 or 6 bolts that hold the up pipe bracket to the block and bolt the turbo to the up pipe. its much easier.

[archer1.8]

Good think you found the problem before it blew up and left you stranded. I would pick up a low milage used vf40/vf46 and be happy.

 

However you could also pick up a vf52 for a few more bills and get an e tune

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fs-co-vf-46-70-k-miles-196777.html

[ehsnils]

Im pretty new to turbos, whats a twin scroll? And yes I am very glad I didnt blow the turbo not knowing it was bad. I was lucky to find it now. Does anyone know anyone that buy core's to rebuild them? Because I dont think I'll be rebuilding mine. Just replacing.

 

A twin scroll is a configuration where there are two separate channels inside the turbo from each cylinder pair which gives a higher gas speed to the turbine and a bit better response at lower rpms.

http://www.bedug.com/pics/Subaru/modp-0906-03-o-twin-scroll-diagram.jpg

 

If you just plan to replace the turbo with an identical some shops are can take the old turbo in return and you will get some discount. Or if someone else needs a turbo for replacement your old turbo would probably be a good core to rebuild from.

[O.C.D.]

Never thought to look how a twin scroll works. Thanks for the above pic.

 

And if you (OP) can swing it just buy a VF52 and enjoy the reaping of your purchase.

 

Seriously, if you can scratch up the difference for the 52 you will be so much happier.

[-Samurai-]

www.6starspeed.com has rebuilt turbos.

 

You may want a new oil return line too.

 

The crush washers are different sizes.

 

While getting the washers at the dealer pick up 5 or 6 bolts that hold the up pipe bracket to the block and bolt the turbo to the up pipe. its much easier.

 

What line is the oil return line, any pics anyone can show me? Theres only like 20 lines LOL (exaggerated) But yeah i dont know the exact routing.

 

Good think you found the problem before it blew up and left you stranded. I would pick up a low milage used vf40/vf46 and be happy.

 

However you could also pick up a vf52 for a few more bills and get an e tune

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fs-co-vf-46-70-k-miles-196777.html

 

I dont have the cash right now for a tune lol so I'll probably stick with the stocker VF40 unfortunately lol

 

Never thought to look how a twin scroll works. Thanks for the above pic.

 

And if you (OP) can swing it just buy a VF52 and enjoy the reaping of your purchase.

 

Seriously, if you can scratch up the difference for the 52 you will be so much happier.

 

Dont have a few hundred to spare at the moment lol, maybe a future upgrade but I'm gonna stick with stock VF40.

 

I have found a few for a reasonable price. I think I'm going to go with a rebuilt one with a new bearing cartridge. Practically looks brand new in all the pics, and he's wanting to buy my old one as well. So that makes it even cheaper. He's asking $550, and giving me back $100 for the old core. Sounds like a great deal to me as I dont plan on rebuilding nor have the time to do it haha.

[Max Capacity]

When you lift the turbo off the up pipe, you'll then know what the oil return is, it's needs to be disconnected before you can lift the turbo.

 

If you tell the guy at the auto parts store, that you want a hose that will work as the oil return line for your car, he should be able to give you a piece of high temp rubber hose.

 

The OEM one is about $20.00

 

Here's a picture of how's mine bolted on.

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4782.jpg

[-Samurai-]

When you lift the turbo off the up pipe, you'll then know what the oil return is, it's needs to be disconnected before you can lift the turbo.

 

If you tell the guy at the auto parts store, that you want a hose that will work as the oil return line for your car, he should be able to give you a piece of high temp rubber hose.

 

The OEM one is about $20.00

 

Here's a picture of how's mine bolted on.

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4782.jpg

 

We will have to see about it, and I already installed my new up pipe, so there are new studs. I wont have to worry about them snapping off when I put my new turbo in. Im sure I'll be ok on that aspect. So for the oil return line, is it just a straight piece of tubing? Theres no curves or bends making it impossible to not use the OEM?