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-broknindarkagain

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broknindarkagain's Grounding Mod Kit Install

 

I am writing this kit for the grounding mod kits that I have made and sold, however if you make your own kit or buy one from somewhere else, you can use this guide as a general reference.

 

In this guide, I am photgraphing a 1994 Impreza L...however the install is identical between it and the 95-99 Legacys.

 

Time Needed :

10 minutes - 30 minutes

 

Tools Needed :

Just basic tools. Scissors and a few sockets (10, 12, 13, and 14mms)

 

Before you even start, lay out all your wires straight on the ground and figure out what wire is what.

Order from longest to shortest

-Passanger side strut tower

-Torque mount

-Driver side strut tower

-Engine block

-Core support

 

NOTE:

For those of you who are using some kind of grounding block setup, this guide is going to be pretty much the same. The only difference in your install will be how it connects to the battery terminal.

 

IDIOT WARNING Do not attach any of these wire to the positive (+) / red battery terminal. You will short your electrical system if you do and likely catch your car on fire. Only attach these wires to the negative (-) / black battery terminal.

 

Step One:

Take the nut off of the negative battery terminal. I suggest leaving the terminal on because it will make your life easier in a little while if its not wiggling around. On this car, I had to pop off the battery cap to get my wrench to fit onto the nut. Its sometimes easier to use a socket to do this...but I had the wrench already in my hand so I did it the hard way lol

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/Grounding%20Kit%20Install/b2ad5a1f.jpg

 

 

Step Two :

I find it a little easier to install starting with the longest wire and working my way down to the shortest.

 

With that being said, head over to the passenger side strut tower (driver side for those of you overseas). You're going to take one of your sockets and take off one of the three strut mount nuts. After you take it off, sand the paint off thats under it so your wire connector gets good contact with bare metal. If you don't do this, the grounding wire will have NO effect on anything. It MUST have direct metal contact...so Make sure you sand it good.

 

After you're done sanding it, put the wire over that stud and put the nut back on. Torque it down properly. Now lead the rest of it under the wiper motor and lead it across the firewall by the brake lines. You're going to put a zip tie where I'm pointing at in the last picture. Just ziptie the wire to the brake lines.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/Grounding%20Kit%20Install/794eb50c.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/Grounding%20Kit%20Install/dcd4584e.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/Grounding%20Kit%20Install/750ae775.jpg

 

 

Step Three:

 

NOTE : If you're a WRX, STI, newer Legacy GT, or any other turbo Subaru with a TMIC, you may have to remove the intercooler to access the torque mount.

 

For 95-99 Legacys, you may have to remove the torque box (big black plastic box) that connects to the throttle body if you're unable to work around it.

 

Now you're going to work your way over towards the middle of the firewall. Take a look for a dogbone sort of looking thing going from your engine to the firewall. Thats your torque mount. Take the bolt out of it on the firewall side and sand the paint off....install the wire...and put the bolt back in. You're going to run this wire along the brake lines just like the last one. Grab the other line and tie it to the brake lines with the one you just put on. Ziptie locations will be right above the torque mount on the brake lines, and where my finger is in the second picture.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/Grounding%20Kit%20Install/cdbfca5b.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/Grounding%20Kit%20Install/65967095.jpg

 

 

Step Four :

 

This step is easy. Same thing you did on the passenger side strut tower, but now do it on the drivers side. After you have the wire attached to that strut tower, drop it down under the fuel filter.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/Grounding%20Kit%20Install/0c287f33.jpg

 

 

Step Five :

 

There isn't much to this step. Take the wires from the firewall and the other strut tower and lead them along the wiring going between the starter and battery (big wires). Ziptie them along the way and join the driver strut tower wire in there as well. Work your way up towards the battery with them. DO NOT let any of the wire connectors touch the positive battery terminal! Your wires will be following the starters positive wire to the battery. Once you get close to the battery, stop and leave them where they are at.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/Grounding%20Kit%20Install/f1772e0e.jpg

 

Step Six :

 

Now you're going to install your engine block ground. Follow the oil dip stick down and look for whats pictured. Take the bolt off and put the ground wire onto the bolt...then re torque the bolt. Run the wire up towards the battery.

 

To give you a bit of reference to where this photo is...that black tube going straight up is the oil dipstick.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/Grounding%20Kit%20Install/636c4636.jpg

 

 

Step Seven :

 

Now you're going to run your last wire. Its going to attach to the upper radiator support on the drivers side You can put it under the metal bar, or on top of it...doesn't really matter. But what does matter is that you take that bar all the way off and sand the paint off thats under it. You're going to run this wire behind the drivers headlight and around the driver side of the battery.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/Grounding%20Kit%20Install/d7626948.jpg

 

 

Step Eight :

 

Now connect your wires to your battery terminal like so and torque down the nut.

 

Don't mind the direction of the wires in this pic. This is actually the first pic for the guide I took lol...so none of the wires were going in the direction they should have been.

 

Keep in mind that I leave a few extra inches of wire on the kits I make. This allows you to use a grounding block setup a little easier if you decide to do so. If you want to just use the stock battery terminal, than you can just rest the slack wire behind the battery.

 

Be sure to go through everything and check to make sure its secured and zip tied away from anything that can damage the wiring.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/Grounding%20Kit%20Install/57413ca3.jpg

Edited by broknindarkagain

-broknindarkagain

My Current Project - Click Here

COME AND TAKE IT

"The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing."

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Front Brakes - Part 1 of 2

 

In this guide I will go over the basics of how to replace your brake pads and rotors on a standard disk brake setup. Just like most of my other guides, this one covers *most* vehicles. There is usually very minor differences between each type of car.

 

NOTE :

 

This guide does NOT cover drum brake systems, brake bleeding, etc

Don't ask me to provide a DIY on drum brakes either. I hate drum brakes and I avoid them like the plague.

 

Time Required :

 

30 minutes - 1 hour

 

 

Tools Required :

 

This varies on each car. The following will usually cover most applications

 

Metric Sockets

Ratchet

Metric Wrenches (GearWrenches work the best. If you don't have any, buy them.)

Torx & Hex sockets

Large C-Clamp

Large Flathead Screwdriver or Small Prybar

Hammer

 

On some cars, you may have to have a bearing race kit and an assortment of punches if you're bearings are the kind that sit inside the rotor.

 

As well, some vehicles have rotors that have screws holding them in. The BEST way to get these screws out is by using an impact screwdriver. You can pick one up on any tool truck (Matco, Snap On, Mac, Cornwell) or at most auto parts stores. You can see one in the last tool image. They simply work by hitting the back side of it with a hammer. It transfers the hammer blow into sudden turning movement (by a gear inside the tool) to bust loose stuck screws. Its a lifesaver. Most Hondas have rotors held in like this.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/diskbrakes/IMAG0606.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/diskbrakes/IMAG0608.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/diskbrakes/IMAG0607.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/diskbrakes/IMAG0605.jpg

 

 

The car I've used in this guide is my personal 1997 Subaru Legacy GT. It has a basic disk brake setup and is similar to most vehicles on the road.

 

Step 1 -

 

Make sure you're parked on a level surface. Place blocks behind your rear wheels (if you're doing the front brakes), pull up your e-brake, ,and put the car in park (or 1st gear if its a stick). Break your lugnuts loose (but don't take them off) while its still on the ground. Now jack it up and support it with jackstands. NEVER rely on the jack alone to hold up the car while you're working on it. ALWAYS use jackstands. After you get the front end up in the air, remove your front wheels. Personally, I like leaving the jack under the car with the jack stand to provide a second layer of protection.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/diskbrakes/IMAG0574.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/diskbrakes/IMAG0576.jpg

 

Step 2 -

 

This is an optional step, but a good idea to do. Since you have your tires off the car, take a close look at them. Look to see if you have any abnormal wear indicating that you need an alignment. As well, look for any nails in the tires. In the picture below, I found a small nail in one of my front tires

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/diskbrakes/IMAG0575.jpg

 

Step 3 -

 

This as well is optional, but it will make your life A LOT easier for the following step.

 

Use a large c-clamp and hit the outside brake pad and the back of the caliper with it. When you compress the c-clamp, it will push back the brake piston a little bit. This will let you flip up the caliper easier later on.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/diskbrakes/IMAG0578.jpg

 

Step 4 -

 

Take a look at the back side of the caliper towards the bottom. You will see the bolt in the picture below. There is one on top and one on bottom. Leave the top one in and remove the bottom. Once you break it loose, you should be able to remove it the rest of the way with your fingers easily.

 

TIP -

 

You can turn your wheel either direction to make it easier to get to the back sided of the caliper. If you're working on the right side, turn the wheels to the left....and to the right for the driver side.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/diskbrakes/IMAG0582.jpg

 

Step 5 -

 

Now you're going to flip up the caliper. If its tough to flip, you can use a screwdriver or small prybar to help you out.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/diskbrakes/IMAG0583.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/diskbrakes/IMAG0584.jpg

 

Step 6 -

 

Now that you have your caliper flipped all the way up, simply push straight back on it. It will slide out of the machine bracket. You don't want to just let it hang around from the brake line (it can damage the line) so hang it from the strut or tie rod. Note on the right side the long pin. Remember this for later. Its called a slider pin. You're going to have to grease it later on. The second slider pin is still in the machine bracket and it too will be greased later on.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/diskbrakes/IMAG0585.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/diskbrakes/IMAG0586.jpg

 

Step 7 -

 

Remove the brake pads from the machine bracket. If they are stuck a little bit, you can use a screwdriver or small prybar to help you get them out.

 

Step 8 -

 

Go back behind the rotor and look for the two bolts that hold the machine bracket on the car. I have a wrench on the two bolts in the pictures below. Remove these bolts and the machine bracket will come off.

 

Picture # 3 below shows the setup I usually use to take these bolts out. They are usually pretty tight, so a long ratchet that gives you extra leverage is very helpful.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/diskbrakes/IMAG0587.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/diskbrakes/IMAG0588.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/diskbrakes/IMAG0589.jpg

 

Step 9 -

 

Now that your machine bracket is out of the way, you can take the rotor off the car. If you're working on a Honda, remember to use the impact screwdriver to take out the screws. Most other vehicles the rotor should basically "fall off" now. Sometimes they rust onto the car a little bit so you have to hit it with a hammer a few times to help break loose the rust.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/diskbrakes/IMAG0590.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/diskbrakes/IMAG0591.jpg

 

Step 10 -

 

Now its time to push the piston in the caliper back. Grab one of your old brake pads and a c-clamp to do this with. Some cars (like the one pictured below) have two pistons in the caliper. Thats OK, the process is still the same.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/diskbrakes/IMAG0600.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/diskbrakes/IMAG0598.jpg

 

Part two of this guide is continued HERE

Edited by broknindarkagain

-broknindarkagain

My Current Project - Click Here

COME AND TAKE IT

"The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing."

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Step 11 -

 

Now its time to start greasing everything up. The grease will help your brakes move more freely, and it will cut down on brake noise as well. When you buy your brake pads, you can ask the parts guy for "caliper grease". He will know just what you need. The following lube points are the automotive industry standard :

 

Catch the machine brakcets where the pads rub along them with lube. Both top and bottom.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/diskbrakes/IMAG0594.jpg

 

Get both slider pins we talked about earlier

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/diskbrakes/IMAG0597.jpg

 

Get the caliper pistons

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/diskbrakes/IMAG0601.jpg

 

And get the front inside part of the caliper that rubs against the outside pad.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/diskbrakes/IMAG0602.jpg

 

Step 12 -

 

Now you start putting everything back together. If you're replacing the rotor, sure you spray it down with brake parts cleaner to remove all the oils from it.

 

Put the rotor on

 

Put the machine bracket on

 

Put the pads in

 

Put the caliper on

 

Put the wheel on

 

Lower the car

 

Torque the lugnuts.

 

 

IMPORTANT NOTE :

 

BEFORE YOU DRIVE YOUR CAR YOU HAVE TO PUMP UP THE BRAKE PEDAL. Since you pushed back the caliper pistons, you are going to have to pump the brake pedal several times in order to get the pads to meet the rotor. Don't forget to do this or else you won't be able to stop your car. Just pump the brake several times until it gets stiff and you will be good to go.

 

 

 

 

 

There are a few minor differences for the rear, but if you understand how to do your front brakes the rears will be EASY to figure out.

 

In the guide above, I removed a bottom bolt from the caliper, the rear you have to take off the top bolt. To replace the caliper, just undo the brake line and put the new caliper on...Pretty easy.

 

As far as the parking brake shoes, try adjusting them first. You can do so by an adjuster wheel inside the assembely of it.

Edited by broknindarkagain

-broknindarkagain

My Current Project - Click Here

COME AND TAKE IT

"The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing."

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Oil Change

 

In this guide I photographed a 2011 Subaru Outback. There are minor differences between it and our cars when you change the oil, but its generally the same. The biggest difference is where the exhaust sits around the oil filter...but as soon as you get under your car, you will see what you need to do.

 

Time Required :

20 minutes

 

Tools Needed :

This varies on how you like to do it or what tools you have available to use.

 

Drain pan

 

Funnel

 

Your drain plug is a 17mm. You can use either a socket or wrench.

 

You can use either filter pliers or a filter claw on the oil filter if you're not able to get it off by hand. If you use a filter claw like pictured below, I highly recommend you put an extension on it to avoid busted knuckles

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/oilchange/IMAG0558.jpg

 

 

 

Step One :

Jack up BOTH SIDES of the front of your car and secure them on jack stands. If you have drive up ramps, you can use them and it would be a little bit less work.

 

 

Step Two :

Pop your hood and take off the oil cap. If your car is still hot from running, let it cool off for a little while before you proceed to avoid getting burned by the exhaust or hot oil.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/oilchange/IMAG0544.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/oilchange/IMAG0545.jpg

 

 

Step Three :

Now get under the car with your 17mm wrench / ratchet. Look for the oil pan. Its right on the bottom of the engine. Its a big black pan...you can't miss it. The picture below shows the drain plug on the bottom of the pan. Yours will be on the bottom / side of the pan. Use your 17mm and remove it to drain the oil into your drain pan. You will probably get some oil on your hand...this is why I had said to let the car cool. Hot oil sucks. Let the oil drain all the way out until its just trickling out, then put the dain plug back in and get it tight. You don't need to get it super tight, just nice and snug. Thread it in by hand first by several threads, then use your wrench to finish the job.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/oilchange/IMAG0546.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/oilchange/IMAG0549.jpg

 

 

Step Four :

Now you need to locate your oil filter. Its close to the front passanger side of the engine. Its going to look like a black/blue/white/orange or other various color can. The filter on this car was white. On your second gen Legacy, your exhaust manifold is different from the one pictured below, but the filter is going to be in the same spot. It spins on and off. Remove it and put the new one one. There is a gasket that sometimes gets stuck to the car, so take a look and make sure the gasket came off with the filter because your new oil filter has a gasket already on it. Take a bit of engine oil that you just drained and dip your finger in it, then run your finger along the gasket on the new filter. Screw on the new filter and only get it hand tight. DO NOT use a tool to tighten it.

 

Tip - don't take the filter off all the way at first. Unscrew it a little bit and some oil will drain out of it. After the oil is done spilling, then you can take it all the way off.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/oilchange/IMAG0547.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/oilchange/IMAG0550.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/oilchange/IMAG0551.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/oilchange/IMAG0554.jpg

 

 

Step Five :

Now that you have your new filter on and your oil drain plug back in, you can get out from under the car and fill up your engine oil. 2.2L engines take 4.5 quarts. 2.5L engines take 4.7 quarts. After your finished filling up the oil, put the cap back on.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/oilchange/IMAG0559.jpg

 

 

Step Six :

Now you need to start your car and let it run for 10-15 seconds. You may notice a little bit of valve train noise when you do this if you have a high mileage car. This is normal and should go away within a few seconds. As well, when you first crank up the car, you will see your oil pressure light (teapot looking light in the pic below) stay on for a few seconds. This as well is normal because your engine is just building up its oil pressure. It should as well go away within a few seconds. After your car runs for 15-20 seconds, shut it off. Now get out of it and lower the car onto the ground and check the oil level to make sure its OK. Clean up your mess and you're all done!

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/oilchange/IMAG0562.jpg

Edited by broknindarkagain

-broknindarkagain

My Current Project - Click Here

COME AND TAKE IT

"The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing."

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Subaru EJ Alternator Replacement

 

I've been asked by a few different people to provide a walk through on how to replace an alternator on a Subaru.

 

This guide covers any 4 cylinder EJ series engine from Subaru. Both turbo and non turbo models. (basically any 4 cylinder 1989 until now).

 

The car in this guide is a 2004 Subaru Impreza WRX.

 

Tools and supplies needed:

 

- New Alternator

- New Alternator Belt (not required, but its cheap and a good idea to replace while you have it off)

- Assorted Sockets (10mm, 12mm, 13mm, and 14mm if I remember right. Deep sockets work best)

- A Prybar or Long Screwdriver

- Needle Nose Pliers

 

Time Required :

 

If this is your first time, probably about 30 minutes. I can do these in about 10 or 15 minutes myself.

 

 

Step one -

 

Sit there and stare at your Subaru for a minute. Why? Just simply because its a bad ass car.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/IMAG0316.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/IMAG0317.jpg

 

Step two -

 

Gather up all of your tools and supplies and have them ready.

 

 

Step three -

 

Open up the hood and disconnect the battery. THIS IS IMPORTANT. If you fail to disconnect the battery, you will be grounding out your tools and making all kinds of lovely popping noises and sparks. You don't want to do that lol. It can screw up your electrical system. So make sure your battery is disconnected. Actually, this is good practice when doing any kind of mechanical work to a car. The car I was photographing for this guide got a new battery with the new alternator, so I had to completely remove it from the car.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/IMAG0318.jpg

 

 

Step four -

 

Take the plastic cover off that sits over the belts on the front of the engine. Its a couple of 10mm bolts. Easy to get off. On the WRX and STI, there are some lines that clip to the top of it. The easiest way to get them off the cover is to use needle nose pliers on the bottom sided to undo the clips.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/IMAG0329.jpg

 

A bottom view of the cover. Towards the middle / bottom / left you can see one of the clips that clip on the lines

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/IMAG0319.jpg

 

Here is what you will end up with after you remove the cover

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/IMAG0320.jpg

 

 

Step five -

 

Now you need to loosen the tension on the belt so you can take it off the alternator pulley (or take it all the way out if you're going to go ahead and replace it.

 

First, loosen the mounting bolt on the driver side of the alternator. You don't need to take it all the way out yet (actually that would be a bad idea), just get it loose. Its close to the AC Compressor

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/IMAG0323.jpg

 

Now, go to the other side of the alternator and look for this :

 

width=359 height=600http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/IMAG0321.jpg[/img]

 

Now that you found it, look right under where the belt was and you will see this:

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/IMAG0322.jpg

 

Loosen the bottom bolt (don't take it out).

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/IMAG0326.jpg

 

Now go back towards the top of the tensioner assembly and start loosening the top bolt. This will take the tension off the belt. You're going to have to go quite some ways. After you get it loose enough, you will be able to slide the belt off the pulley. You may have to push down on the alternator at the end to get it to move all the way down

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/IMAG0324.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/IMAG0325.jpg

 

Step six -

 

Take a look at the top of the alternator towards the back and look for a red rubber boot. Pull it out of the way and remove the 10mm nut that sits under it. then look to the left of that to the green clip that snaps into the alternator. Remove that as well. Both can be seen in these pictures :

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/IMAG0314.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/IMAG0315.jpg

 

 

Step seven -

 

Remove the driver side bolt and the bottom bolt on the belt tensioner from step five. Be careful of the driver side bolt however. There is a clip on the back side of it that will fall down and get lost if you don't have your hands on it.

 

Step eight -

 

Lift the alternator out of the car. It may be kind of hard to get out, so a pry bar and a hammer may help it break free.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/IMAG0327.jpg

 

Step nine -

 

Compare the new and old alternators to make sure they are the same. This includes electrical connections, pulley grooves / size, bolt holes, etc.

 

Step ten

 

Drop in your new alternator. You may have to pry on it a little bit or tap it with a soft hammer to get the driver side bolt hole to line up.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/IMAG0328.jpg

 

 

Now just continue to put it back together by reversing the above steps.

 

I've heard of some new Subaru alternators requiring a 15 minute break-in period before they will put out a charge. So if your new alternator isn't putting out 14 volts right away, don't panic. Just let it idle there for 15 minutes then re-check it.

 

 

DISCLAIMER :

 

If you follow this guide, you should not run into any problems. I do not take responsibility for any damage you may cause to your vehicle while working on it following this guide. As always, if your vehicle is rusted, use penetrating oil to help break the rust free. Don't over torque bolts, and use common sense.

 

You may use and print this guide for your own personal use. If you would like to re-publish this guide, please contact me for permission.

Edited by broknindarkagain

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General Safety - Tips & Tricks

 

The biggest thing to keep in mind is to use common sense. A lot of bad things happen when people make simple mistakes. Think about what you're doing before you do it.

 

Make sure you don't get in over your head. Do your research if you're about to do something you have not done before. The guides here should be a good starting point. Remember that there are no stupid questions. If you're unsure of what you're doing, ask someone who knows.

 

Never work under the car if its not stable. ALWAYS use jack stands. Never work under a car thats only supported by a jack. Jacks fail, I've seen it several times. The last place you want to be when a jack fails is under the car. It will kill you if it falls on you. I personally like to leave the jack under the side of the car I'm working on as a second layer of protection if the jackstand were to fail (not common, but I have seen it happen before). So, if your setup is like the picture below, you should be fine. As well, always block the wheels that are still on the ground. Usually a big rock or a block of wood works fine. Always try and work on flat level ground. Only jack up a car thats on a slight hill if you have no other choice...and use extreme caution if you do.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v287/broknindarkagain/diskbrakes/IMAG0574.jpg

 

When using a wrench or ratchet, always try and push away from your body on it with an open hand. This helps avoid busted knuckles and elbowing yourself in the chest. Both hurt lol

 

If you're draining fluids, bleeding brakes, taking off fuel lines, etc....ALWAYS wear safety glasses. I've got most automotive fluids in my eyes over the years. The most painful ones are brake fluid, brake parts cleaner, and gasoline. The other fluids don't bug you as much...but its still not pleasant. If you get something in your eyes, go flush out your eyes for a few minutes with luke warm water. If you get excessive amounts of fluids into your eyes, its best to seek medical attention. This is especially true if you get fluid in your eyes that may have metal shavings in it (oil from an engine with a rod knock).

 

Wear rubber gloves while you're working. It helps keep your hands cleaner. Even if you don't mind getting dirty, when you bust your knuckles open, you will hate scrubbing all the grease and dirt out of an open cut. If you wear gloves, then you won't have to worry about this. It will already be cleanish...and just a normal cleaning of the wound will be good enough.

 

Make it a habit to take the keys out of the ignition when you're working on the car. This helps prevent accidents like the fans turning on and cutting your fingers off.

 

Always keep a can of PB Blaser, Deep Creep, etc handy to help with rusted bolts. Even if you don't live in a snowy area, there will still be rusted bolts on your car.

 

Know the limits of your strength and don't push them. I've pulled muscles and torn ligaments in the past because I put too much force into tools.

 

Know the limits of your tools and use good quality tools. Every tool has its breaking points. A good rule of thumb is to stick with major brands and you will get stronger tools. Personally I use Great Neck sockets, Husky ratchets, Kobalt box wrenches, Stanley screwdrivers, Craftsman prybars, Matco pliers, Gearwrench branded ratcheting renches, and all of my specialty tools are either Snap On or Matco. For air tools, I either use Ingersol Rand or Matco....and Ingersol makes Matcos anyways...so I guess all my air tools are Ingersol Rand.

 

Lift safely. Back injuries are no joke and chiropractors get expensive. Don't lift too much for you to handle. If you need help, get help. Always bend your knees to lift and carry the weight close to your body.

 

If you don't have enough strength to bust loose a bolt, you can put a pipe on the end of your tool to get more leverage.

 

If you're not a professional, please don't try and modify parts of your vehicle with something that you designed. This almost always ends failure. I've seen everything from fuel lines being held on by bungee cords to brake master cylinders that are patched with duct tape and card board. PLEASE, do things right. If you're in over your head...get help.

Edited by broknindarkagain

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Front Struts and Coilover Install

 

http://thdblog.files.wordpress.com/2009/05/under-construction.gif

Edited by broknindarkagain

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Rear Struts and Coilover Install

 

http://thdblog.files.wordpress.com/2009/05/under-construction.gif

Edited by broknindarkagain

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Morimoto Mini H1 Bi-Xenon Projector Retrofit

 

All credit goes out to Thomistopheles for this awesome write up!

 

I've had a bunch of requests for a DIY guide on my retrofit, so here it is.

 

Parts Required:

2 piece USDM headlights and corners

Morimoto Mini H1 projectors

Mini gatling shrouds

Motocontrol harness
[match your car's factory headlight plug]

HID ballasts and H1 bulbs

Headlight sealant
[butyl rubber - OEM nissan, Koito, or 3M window weld ribbon]

Kydex sheet

 

Tools Required:

Dremel

Reinforced cutting wheels

Screwdriver set

Oven
[Heat gun if you're a scaredy cat. Just man up and use the oven, dammit.]

Oven thermometer
[Never trust the built in temp display. Some ovens are not good at regulating low temps.]

Gloves

Epoxy or adhesive sealant

Paint

 

Bench testing bi-xenon solenoids

This is very important, you need to make sure the solenoid that flips the cutoff shield down for high beams is working flawlessly. Sometimes you might have a sticky plunger, or weak spring. Use a 12v power source to cycle it at LEAST 50 times. You will hear it click, but make sure you actually watch the shield move. If everything's working, great! Get to work you bums.

 

Splitting the headlights and corners

Preheat your oven to 210°F. Remove all bulbs, screws, and the four clips on each headlight housing. Place a flat baking sheet in the oven. I baked the headlight housings for 12 minutes and the corners for 7 minutes. To split the baked headlights, stick a butter knife or flat head screwdriver between the headlight lens and housing. Gently give it a twist to start opening the gap, and work your way around the lens. Once you have a gap, you can pull them apart by hand. To split the corners, you will have to pry them apart with the prying tool of your choice. The corner light lens slides out toward the front of the car, not straight off the lens. Keep the tabs in mind, and do not pry too hard or you will crack the lens.

 

Cutting and trimming the headlight housings

Remove the bulb shields. There's a small cover that clips on over the mounting screw for the shields. Pull out the wire headlight bulb holder as well. You will need to use your dremel with the cutting wheel to cut down the bulb holder on the housing. Here's a photo of what the bulb socket looked like after I cut it:

 

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/TurboThom/1997%20OB/USDM%20Retrofit/Locking-nut_zpsbcf095ed.jpg

 

You will need to cut a hole in the bottom of the housing to clear the bottom of the projector, and cut off the area the stock bulb shields screwed into.

 

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/TurboThom/1997%20OB/USDM%20Retrofit/Housing-hole_zps781e1b48.jpg

 

You will need to trim the bottom of your shrouds to clear the housing. I didn't get any photos of that, but you're schmart peoples and I have no doubt that you can figure it out. I don't want to see any posts saying
"Directions unclear, penis is stuck in ceiling fan. Please send help."

 

Painting

Strip the chrome from everything you intend to paint, either chemically or via sanding. I used Glad Press n Seal to mask off a chrome ring on the ends of my shrouds when I painted them, and did the same thing when I masked off the turn signal reflectors in the corner lights. Lightly press down just enough to seal, then trim with a razor.

 

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/TurboThom/1997%20OB/USDM%20Retrofit/Corner-mask_zps96fa4e1f.jpg

 

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/TurboThom/1997%20OB/USDM%20Retrofit/Corner-painted_zps5e0fecaf.jpg

 

Mounting the projectors

These projectors mount really easy, you should only need to adjust rotation. Run the bi-xenon wires through the hole you cut at the bottom of the housing.

 

Projector reflector bowl | Small silicone washer | Headlight housing | Metal washer | Lock nut | Bulb holder

 

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/TurboThom/1997%20OB/USDM%20Retrofit/Locking-nut_zpsbcf095ed.jpg

 

Don't crank down the locking nut. Make it tight, but so that you can still rotate the projector with a bit of force. Put your headlights on the car and adjust the rotation so the cutoff is level, and then lock down the nut good and tight so the projector is locked in place. The wiring harness is plug and play, I don't think I need to write a section for the wiring or HID install.

 

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/TurboThom/1997%20OB/USDM%20Retrofit/Projectors-mounted_zpse2e5c750.jpg

 

^You would have your shrouds mounted at this point. I didn't. Wanna fight about it?!

 

Seal those sexy sons of seabiscuits back up

Run your solenoid wires through the hole in the bottom of the housing, and use the kydex sheet and epoxy or adhesive sealant to seal up the giant hole you made. All done? Wunderbar! Preheat your oven to 210°F again. While that's warming up, take your headlight sealant and put it into the channels on your lights. Bake them the same amount of time as when you split them to soften the sealant. Press the lenses back into place, put all your screws and clips and thingamajigs back on. Now go take your new lights and aim them

.

 

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/TurboThom/1997%20OB/USDM%20Retrofit/DONE_zpsf63372f3.jpg

 

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/TurboThom/1997%20OB/USDM%20Retrofit/DONE-CAR-FRONT1_zps24f1fea1.jpg

 

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/TurboThom/1997%20OB/USDM%20Retrofit/OUTPUT_zps48513103.jpg~original

 

As of writing this, I haven't been able to properly aim my lights since the adjustment screws are stuck... but they'll move soon enough. I'm going to pull the lights and really soak the hell out of the screws. Anyway, feel free to PM me with any questions. I didn't get many photos of the process since I zoned in on what I was doing at the time and forgot about taking photos along the way.

Edited by broknindarkagain

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TOOLS

 

Sockets

3/8 Drive

8 through 19mm will cover most jobs. You want both deep and shallow sockets, preferably 6 point to avoid rounded off bolts. You can buy a complete set of Great Neck sockets 8 - 19mm that includes both deep and shallow for $25 from Autozone.

 

1/2 Drive

You will especially need 1/2 drive if you plan on doing suspension work. I've had the best luck with impact rated sockets because they are stronger. You can buy the cheap sets from Harbor Freight and they usually hold up just fine (as long as they are impact). You're going to want to get at least 15mm - 24mm

 

Ratchets

I've always personally used Husky ratchets. They are pretty cheap, and they are VERY tough. As well, they carry a lifetime warranty. You will want to get both a 3/8 drive and a 1/2 drive

 

Pliers

Various pliers are needed for many different things. You can buy a 8pc set of pliers that would work just fine for about $10 from Harbor Freight

 

Wrenches

Standard Box Wrenches

You're going to want to get a set of 8mm - 19mm. My set is Kobalt and I've had it for a few years. I've pretty happy with them. As well, 21mm, 22mm, and 24mm come in handy sometimes too. However, I can't think of anything off the top of my head on a Legacy that needs these sizes.

 

Ratcheting Wrenches

I don't believe in using anything other than Gearwrench branded ones. I've used all of them, and Gearwrench seems to be the only ones that hold up to the abuse (besides Matco or Snap On). Sears has sales on them occasionally where you can pick up a set for about $35.

 

Extensions

You're going to want various extensions in both 3/8 and 1/2 drive. As well, swivels are a good thing to have.

 

 

Other things that come in handy are PB Blaster, a pipe to use as a cheater bar, assorted screwdrivers, vice grips, a c-clamp, etc.

Edited by broknindarkagain

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Well, attached are pictures of the endlink connection, mount connection, and the endlink and mount after being disconnected.

Whiteline recommends doing this install with your cars suspension under normal load. Jacking it up makes it easier, just make sure when you tighten everything in the end, it is with the car on level ground again.

For my endlink connection, I needed two 17mm sockets. Standard wrenches would be easier. Unbolt the sway bar from the endlinks.

Next, undo the mount connection. For my setup, I needed a 6mm allen wrench. Stock may require a different size/type. Once you have removed the mounts, slide the swaybar out from under the car (it should be over your exhaust, so don't go yanking).

NOTE! For the front swaybar, you will need to remove a protector plate which has 4 12mm bolts. The front two need a 12mm wrench to hold the nuts on the upper part of the brace.

Slide your new super awesome-O swaybar in place, making sure it is correctly oriented to clear the exhaust and or CV bars.

Take your new bushings, and grease those badboys up on the insides. Throw some grease on the bar at their connection points too. Put them on your bar.

Line your bar up, get the bushings oriented in your mount, and go ahead and remount them. Don't completely torque them down yet though!

Make sure the ends are lined up with your endlinks. This may require you pulling the endlinks into position to line up with the bar.

Re-bolt the bar to the endlinks. If you have an adjustable bar, hook it up on the setting you deem fit!

Go back and retorque the mount bolts.

 

Get your tools, get out from under your car, and get ready to feel teh awesome.

 

!!!#NOTE#!!!

The bushings are "directional". They will go in easily one direction, and not so easy nor flush the other. Make sure you have them oriented properly. Also, do not grease up the exterior of the bushing, nor any extra area on your swaybar. Under compression, if any of these are done improperly, your bushing may pop out while you are driving. This is not good.

 

(Sorry for the sh#t pictures. I will have good ones up in about a week)

660623017_2011-11-1800_05.34-796724932.thumb.jpg.ad4e2d5570019c3bd6f25079db9430be.jpg

1024987126_Picture1.jpg.611b382d930a0be8e4c61591b9202928.jpg

496247917_Picture2.jpg.b2973347b691f8e63ea6ed744b8cc437.jpg

2009800214_Picture3.jpg.572063eccc8169f4f44117f6e610df3e.jpg

Edited by lulzcow
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JDM Projector Headlight Install

 

Original thread can be found by "warrior" on SL-i at this link

 

Notes:

Disconnect negative terminal from battery

• There are no removal instructions or assembly instructions as those should already be straight forward.

• There are four bolts to remove the USDM Headlights and only three to mount the JDM Headlights

• To remove the grill; use a flat screw driver to push the centre lever between the clips down until you hear a 'click'. The plastic lever stays down and this will allow you to remove the whole clip from the frame. The clips come off from the frame and stay mounted to the grill.

 

Part 1: USDM Electrical Wires Explained

 

http://jay-d.com/marv/images/jdmprojector/jdmprojector01.jpg

Driver Side

Red = High Beam

Red/Blue = Power

Yellow/Blue = Low Beam

 

http://jay-d.com/marv/images/jdmprojector/jdmprojector02.jpg

Passenger Side

Red = High Beam

Black/Yellow = Power

Yellow/Blue = Low Beam

 

Part 2: JDM Electrical Wires Explained

 

http://jay-d.com/marv/images/jdmprojector/jdmprojector04.jpg

The wires are identical for both driver/passenger side. These really don't need an explanation as you can trace the wires yourself to see which one goes where.

Red = Power (This wire goes to both high/low beam bulbs)

Blue = City Light. (I did not hook this up as I did not have any use for it. I believe this is also their Daytime Running Light. This is paired with the low beam wire.)

White = High Beam (Only goes to the high beam bulb)

Black = Low Beam (Only goes to the low beam bulb)

 

Looking directly at the connector with the prongs facing you and the tab/clip on top, the wires are as follow.

 

Top Left = High Beam

Bottom Left = Power

Top Right = City Light

Bottom Right = Low Beam

 

Part 3: Splicing

 

http://jay-d.com/marv/images/jdmprojector/jdmprojector03.jpg

My JDM Projectors did not come with the OEM wiring harness. This doesn't make it any more difficult as you could just splice the wires directly to your stock lighting wires, but I wanted the ability to remove my headlights if I ever needed too. These were purchased from Canadian Tire for $4 each. They didn't have a 3 or 4 prong harness and I purchased two different ones so I wouldn't confuse wiring.

 

http://jay-d.com/marv/images/jdmprojector/jdmprojector05.jpg

This is pretty straight forward. It doesn't matter what wires you use on your new harness (if you chose to go this route) as long as they match up on the other end. If your JDM Projector lights came with the complete harness, you can skip this step and solder the wires to your stock wires.

Don't know how to solder? http://www.aaroncake.net/electronics/solder.htm

 

Do the same on the stock wiring using picture 01 for reference.

 

Part 4: Turn Signal Fix

 

http://jay-d.com/marv/images/jdmprojector/jdmprojector06.jpg

The JDM socket will not work with your USDM turn signals. It is a single filament bulb whereas the USDM ones are a dual filament. This fix requires an exacto knife and 30 seconds. There are four notches surrounding the bulb socket; three of them are the same size and align perfectly. The fourth one is slightly larger in the USDM side.

Take an exacto knife (BE CAREFUL!) or a dremel; whatever you prefer and take out like 1/16th of an inch on both sides. Along the red lines as shown in the picture. This will be done on your USDM socket, the JDM is of no use to you.

 

http://jay-d.com/marv/images/jdmprojector/jdmprojector07.jpg

With the plastic notch shortened, it fits perfectly into the JDM Lights allowing your signals to work with your upgraded lights.

 

http://jay-d.com/marv/images/jdmprojector/jdmprojector08.jpg

Three wire turn signal inside JDM head lights.

 

Review:

The bulbs that I got with these lights were crap so I will be buying some Xtra Visions tomorrow. The cut off is really nice though there isn't much light output due to the shit bulbs. The driver side projector lens can be adjusted horizontally a great deal to avoid blinding oncoming traffic. However, the passenger side is limited. Overall, this took me about one hour to do, it wasn't difficult at all, just soldering and attention to detail was time consuming.

 

Good luck and hope this helps!!

Edited by broknindarkagain

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Better Gauge Lighting - LED

 

Original thread can be found on SL-i written by Chief. Link can be found here.

 

Do highlight the instrument panel GC/GF/BG/BD/ or other subaru

We all know that the instrument panel, which light bulb standard, dull. Try to make them brighter.

We will need:

1. screwdriver +

2. pliers

3. diode tape

4. solvent

5. soldering Iron

6. solder

7. rosin

8. two-sided tape

9. glue

 

First step.

1.remove the dashboard from the car

2.dismantle the dashboard

http://savepic.net/1447205.jpg

3.on the reverse side of the dashboard unscrew bolts that keep the devices inside

http://savepic.net/1493284.jpg

4.then take out the scale of housing

http://savepic.net/1495332.jpg

http://savepic.net/1489188.jpg

5.take the diode tape we bought and treatment on the part

http://savepic.net/1458468.jpg

http://savepic.net/1455396.jpg

6.further welds diode tape so that it could be placed inside the dashboard.and then glue the diodes with two-sided sticky tape and glue

http://savepic.net/1483047.jpg

http://savepic.net/1488167.jpg

7.All scales are covered with a thick layer of color filters.we need to erase these filters.For this purpose we take the cotton pads and a solvent.plot the solvent on cotton pads and gently begin to erase the filter from the back side of the scale.

http://savepic.net/1506598.jpg

http://savepic.net/1492262.jpg

http://savepic.net/1486118.jpg

http://savepic.net/1490214.jpg

8.contacts of the diode solder tape to areas where there were light bulbs.It is important to observe polarity when connecting power!

http://savepic.net/1493307.jpg

9.collect panel in reverse order and test.Result!

BG
http://savepic.net/1489210.jpg

BD
http://savepic.net/1460538.jpg

GC
http://savepic.net/1448250.jpg

GD
http://savepic.net/1497405.jpg

and my BG5 http://savepic.net/1073932.jpg

sorry all photo was made on my old phone.

 

I hope this topic will help someone. Sincerely, Chief.

Edited by broknindarkagain

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Maintenance - Fluid Types & Capacity

 

4EAT

 

Fluid Type : Dexron III

Total Capacity : 10 Quarts

Refill Capacity : 2.6 Quarts

Service Interval : 30,000 miles

Serviceable Filter : YES

 

 

5MT

 

Fluid Type: Subaru Special S 75W-90 GL5

Capacity : 3.7 Quarts

Serviceable Filter : NO

 

Front Differential (4EAT ONLY)

 

Fluid Type: Subaru Special S 75W-90 GL5

Fluid Capacity : 1.3 Quarts

 

Rear Differential

 

Fluid Type : Subaru Special S 75W-90 GL5

Capacity : 0.85 Quarts

 

Clutch

 

Fluid Type : DOT3 or DOT4 fluid

 

Engine Oil

 

Fluid Type : 5w30 or 10w30

2.5
- 4.7 Quarts

2.2
- 4.5 Quarts

Edited by broknindarkagain

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Original artical written by Joshua on RS25. Link can be found here.

 

Note : This guide is based on an RS 2.5 with a EJ251 in it. However, the engine removal procedure is nearly identical to the Legacy. There may be very minor differences throughout the guide, but for the most part its pretty dead on.

 

Part Two

Part Three

 

 

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-001.jpg

 

Tools Required:

 

- Sockets; 8,10,12,14,17mm both deep and shallow well

- Box wrenches in the same sizes as above

- Various extensions

- Breaker Bar

- Phillips and Flat screwdrivers

- Pliers

- Black Marker, White out

- Rags

- Engine Hoist w/ chain and/or stabilizer bar

- Floor Jack, Scissor jacks, Jack Stands x2

- Pry bar

- Metal putty knife

- Hammer

- PB Blaster

- Service Manual

 

Optional:

 

- Never seize

- Plastic sandwich bags

- Various lamps

- Various plastic containers

- Plastic ties and straps

- Protective eyewear

- Engine Stand

- Air tools

- A Friend

 

Fist things first pull the car into where ever you are undertaking this, make sure you have enough room to move the hoist around. Also make sure you have enough room above so that the motor and hoist will clear everything above the car. Next take a bunch of pictures from different angles of your engine bay and/or have another RS there to compare when putting everything back together. Another thing (which as you can see I didn’t do) is to wash the engine bay.

 

Note:

After removing any nuts, washers, and bolts if at all possible put them back in their original location. You will end up with quite a pile of parts after this and the last thing you want is extras! Another option is to label plastic bags and put the parts in there, or you can place parts in piles together. Just try and keep the parts organized.

 

All work was done on a 2001 2.2L Impreza L, I noted where I remembered the differences were with the RS

 

This writeup is for a Manual Transmission, there are differences for a Automatic Transmission please check with the service manual

 

Now either prop up the hood or remove it along with the hood prop. You are going to want to have a lot of room to work around the car, I highly reccomend removing it if you have help. To remove the hood there are 4 12mm bolts and the washer nozzle tube.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-004.jpg

 

Remove the Battery: There are 2 bolts (10mm) for the terminals and 2 bolts (10mm) for the tie down.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-003.jpg

 

Remove Intake: since I don’t have a stock intake I am leaving pictures out of this: Just remove the intake leave the vacuum lines attached to the engine, if you are worried about what one goes where use the white out and make notations i.e. 1 and 1, 2 and 2, etc.

 

Jack the car up: I try and get it pretty high so there is plenty of room to work. Place it on jack stands and make sure the rear tires are chucked.

 

Drain Radiator: It’s now time to drain the radiator. The drain is located at the bottom of the radiator on the passengers side. The screw is a plastic wing nut looking thing. Its a tight fit for your hands.

If you have a big pan and are not worried about a mess just take the screw out completely, it comes out 10x faster - RS22B

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-006.jpg

 

Insert a small tub or place a plastic container below the car to catch the coolant. It leaks out of the screw part so having something to catch the extra fluid is a good idea. Turn until you see coolant coming out. Also while you are in there remove the plug for the fan. To do this lift the tab away from the plug and pull the plug out

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-007.jpg

See it leaking! :lol:

 

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-008.jpg

Pic of my container and note the pan, I found this at a junk yard, it works great for this, brakes, anything you dont want a mess over your floor over

 

Remove Coolant Resivor While that is draining remove the Coolant reservoir. There are 2 10mm bolts holding it on.

Alternatively you can leave this connected and pull it with the radiator - GOTJ

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-010.jpg

 

Now remove the clip from the other side and remove the reservoir, it requires a little bit of force and jiggling and it will come out

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-013.jpg

 

Now its time to crawl under the car

 

Remove the Second Fan Plug: This is for the drivers side fan

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-017.jpg

 

Remove the Headers: 6-14mm nuts for the RS, 4-14mm nuts for the L. Be ready for the studs to come out with them, if they are rusted bad enough you might want to think about replacing them. Remove the 2-17mm rear bolts and nuts that connect the header to the Cat.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-015.jpghttp://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-016.jpg

 

Take off the 2 10mm bolt holding on the thermostat cover, have a bucket it because you will have a good amount of coolant coming out. Also be very careful removing these one of mine snapped, luckly there is enough thread left that I can still get it out.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-014.jpg

 

Remove Motor Mount Nuts: While you are under there remove the 14mm motor mount nuts and washers; one on each side.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-019.jpghttp://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-018.jpg

 

Remove Lower Trans Bolts: Next remove the lower engine/transmission bolts (14mm) driver side. The top one is a bolt and the bottom is a nut. It will take some maneuvering to get to them

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-020.jpg

 

As for the passengers side it is easier to get these from the top.

 

Now that hopefully most of the coolant is out you can tighten the drain plug and remove the plastic tube. There is a clip on the radiator securing the radiator inlet hose (passenger side), with a 10mm wrench loosen it and remove the hose. Next remove the 2 bolts from the top of the radiator. Pull the radiator up to remove it. You will just have to maneuver the lower radiator hose (drivers side) around the wiring that is there. Place the radiator off to the side :)

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-012.jpg

 

Part 2 can be found here.

Edited by broknindarkagain

-broknindarkagain

My Current Project - Click Here

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"The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing."

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Now go ahead and lower the car!

 

Remove the V-belt Cover: Remove the 3-10mm nut and bolts and the 12mm bolt.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-011.jpg

 

Disconnect the alternator harness: 1 plug in alternator, 1 12mm nut, 1 plug in the AC Compressor, and the tie. Weave it out so it is out of the way, place it where the battery used to be.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-022.jpg

 

Remove Throttle Cables: Next remove the throttle cable/cables. Unscrew the 12mm nut as shown, you can see where there is no thread, slide it back to that point and it will come out. For the RS you will have to do this twice. Do Not loosen the other nut, this way everything goes back together correctly.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-023.jpg

 

Next pull the wire forward so there is enough slack to undo it from the throttle body. If you have ever taken the brakes off your mountain bike it is the same concept. Weave it out and pull it to where the battery used to be.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-025.jpg

 

Remove the Alternator Belt. Unscrew (a)-12mm then loosen (b)-12mm until the belt is loose enough to come off. Normally you wouldn't remove (a) but it needs to come off for the next step ;)

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-026.jpg

 

Unbolt Power Steering Pump: Remove 2-10mm bolts (passenger side)

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-028.jpg

 

Remove bolt (12mm) Its behind the PS Pump you will need an extention to get to it.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-029.jpg

 

Remove 2 bolts under PS Pump (12mm) It should be loose now so place power steering pump off to side as far out of the way as it will go

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-039.jpg

 

Undo plug, It should be loose now so place power steering pump off by the fender as far out of the way as it will go.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-036.jpg

 

 

Remove AC belt: Loosen (a)-12mm and remove (b + c)-12mm

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-030.jpg

Note that alternator belt and PS pump will have been removed already

 

Removal of Washer Reservoir is not necessary, but leaving it in as reference - GOTJ

 

 

Unbolt AC compressor: This step keeps you from having to recharge your AC. There are 4 14mm bolts holding the AC Compressor on. Remove (a) (b) and © to make things a little easier

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-042.jpg

 

Remove (d) and (e) the compressor will be loose now so move it as far over out of the way as you can.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-041.jpg

 

OK well we are getting there!

 

Remove Fuel Lines: The fuel lines are held on by a clip, with a Phillips screwdriver loosen clip and pull the line off. This may take a little twisting and force but it will come off. Have a container ready to catch the gas that comes out.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-027.jpg

 

Remove Heater Inlet and Outlet Hoses: Careful when removing these more coolant will come out.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-035.jpg

 

Remove Brake Booster Vacuum Hose: Located on intake manifold rear drivers side. The RS will also have a Cruise Control Vacuum Hose located just above/below this one.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-033.jpg

 

Unplug Engine Harness Connectors: Unplug the Brown and Gray plugs. Note under the bracket is one of the Transmission bolts that will have to be removed.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-031.jpg

 

Unplug Front O2 Sensor: Unplug front O2 Sensor. Note that there is a strap holding it to the Transmission, the bolt that holds this is one of the ones to be removed.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-032.jpg

 

Unbolt Pitch Stopper: Unbolt Pitch Stopper from transmission (14mm bolt and nut)

 

Sorry I don’t have a pic of this :(

 

Part 3 can be found here.

Edited by broknindarkagain

-broknindarkagain

My Current Project - Click Here

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"The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing."

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Ok its time to get this mother out!

 

Position engine hoist over your bay: I needed to jack my car up a little to allow for the legs to clear the A arms.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-048.jpg

 

The lifting locations are as follows:

 

Alternator bracket

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-046.jpg

 

Engine Harness Bracket

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-047.jpg

 

Support the Transmission with a floor jack

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-049.jpg

 

Remove Transmission Bolts: Now remove the rest of the bolts holding the transmission to the engine. Its hard to get pictures of these so here is a pic of the trans showing the locations of the bolts. (a, b, c, d, e, f) the ones that are not tagged were removed in a previous step. Also note the pins as you will be fighting with these to get the engine and transmission separated.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-052.jpg

 

Ok now that you have those out jack up the engine so that the motor mounts clear the Cross member by an inch or two. Raise up the jack so the transmission is being supported. Now grab the engine and give it a good pull away from the trans, if you are lucky it will start to separate, but I doubt you are that lucky :lol:

 

If it doesn’t come apart try this. Where the engine meets the transmission put a putty knife and give it a whole lot of whacks. This will take some time be patient and keep fighting it. Once it starts separating work your way around as far as you can go. When you get it open enough to get a pry bar in there do so, just be careful not to break anything!

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/engine_removal/EngineRemoval-050.jpg

 

Once it comes apart check and make sure nothing is connected and lift her up!!!!

:sunny:

-broknindarkagain

My Current Project - Click Here

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"The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing."

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Convert Rear Drum to Rear Disk Brakes

 

 

Transcribed from WAC's Site

 

This installation will upgrade the rear drum brakes on an AWD Impreza or Legacy to rear disc brakes. I performed this modification using research information obtained from the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club (i-club) and Rallispec. The only 1993-2001 Impreza's with rear disc brakes are all 2.5RS models and certain 2.2L models in 1995 and 1996, including the 1996 Impreza Outback Sport. This documentation is based on the install on my 1997 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport, which has ABS. Your installation may differ slightly if you do not have ABS.

 

Note: these instructions are intended for someone with reasonable automotive repair experience and knowledge. Many details have been omitted, as they can be found in other literature such as Haynes' excellent Subaru Legacy Automotive Repair Manual (1990 through 1998). Missing details include: suspension assembly/disassembly, brake assembly/disassembly, parking brake adjustment, and brake bleeding. However, I have included pictures wherever possible to aid presentation and to provide helpful hints.

 

Materials Required:

 

  • 1 set complete and functional rear knuckle assemblies from any 1993-2001 Impreza or Legacy with rear disc brakes, consisting of:
  • AWD knuckles, with hub and bearings
  • Backing plates
  • 10.1" solid disc rotors
  • ABS sensors and cables (if applicable, and optional)
  • 1-pot brake calipers
  • Brake pads (new or used)
  • Disc brake seal kit (optional, Subaru part number 26297AA040)
  • Rear disc brake hoses, Subaru part numbers 26531AA041 (RH) and 26531AA070 (LH), or aftermarket equivalents.
  • Parking brake cables (from Impreza RS or Legacy, but Impreza RS will be of proper length), Subaru Impreza RS part numbers 26051FA140 (RH) and 26051FA150 (LH)
  • Brake fluid, DOT 4
  • Shop rags

 

Tools Required:

 

  • 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 21mm socket (ratchet) wrenches
  • 32mm hub socket wrench
  • 14mm deep socket wrench
  • 12" or longer breaker bar
  • 4" and 6" socket wrench extensions (optional)
  • 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm open-ended wrenches
  • 8mm, 10mm flare nut wrenches (for brake bleeding, hoses)
  • 2-ton floor jack(s) or equivalent
  • 2-ton jackstand(s) or equivalent
  • Oil/fluid catch pan or suitable container
  • Speed bleeders (optional)
  • Pliers (optional)
  • Small flat-blade screwdriver (optional)

 

 

Let's Start

 

Before jacking up the car, it is advisable to loosen the axle nuts with a 32mm socket and breaker bar. Do this with the tires on the ground and the handbrake fully applied - it will give you a much bigger mechanical advantage than when the car is up on jackstands.

Jack up the rear of the car. Use a block of wood to prevent slippage. Rest the car on two jack stands. Remove the wheels. The descriptions from this point onwards will apply only to the right side - repeat as necessary when doing the left side:

 

If you forgot to loosen the axle nuts and have a helper, have him/her stand on the brake pedal while you loosen/remove the nut.

 

Remove the brake drum. If it is stuck, insert a M8x1.25 hardened bolt into one of the holes and turn with a wrench to pull the drum out. The drum will only get stuck on high-mileage cars where the drum shoes has worn a wide groove into the drum surface, resulting in a lip in the drum that catches the drum shoes.

 

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/DIYS/DISC/drum.jpg

 

Remove the rubber drum brake hose from the drum brake line at the strut tabs to the chassis (not shown). The rubber hose is attached to a rigid brake line out of the drum brake assembly. Be prepared to have a catch pan for the brake fluid spills (it was too late in this picture). Pinch off the brake hose or temporarily tie the brake hose so that it is up and out of the way.

 

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/DIYS/DISC/axlenut.jpg

 

Remove all the bolts securing the parking brake cable to the underside of the car. (Unfortunately, it was impossible to take pictures of the underside of the car, so you'll have to bear with line drawings.) It's probably very dirty under there, so please wear eye protection.

Go to the interior of the car, and remove the plastic center console. Remove or peel back the plastic parking brake skirt from the parking brake lever (not shown). Remove the rear seat.

 

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/DIYS/DISC/parkingbrakecable.gif

 

Peel back the carpeting to expose the equalizer cover. You may need to remove some interior panels to get access to removing parts of the carpeting. You may also need to remove the driver's and passenger's seats to be able to peel back the carpeting.

 

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/DIYS/DISC/equalizercover.gif

 

Remove the two nuts that bolt the cable clamp to the floor.

Loosen the parking brake cable locknut and adjuster nut at the parking brake assembly. Using the extra slack from the loosened/disconnected cable, remove the parking brake cables from both sides of the equalizer. A pair of pliers will come in handy here.

 

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/DIYS/DISC/cableclamp.gif

 

 

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/DIYS/DISC/equalizer.gif

 

Push the parking brake cables, including the rubber boot, through the holes in the tunnel floor. Fish them out towards the knuckles under the car.

 

Remove the strut-to-knuckle nuts and bolts. Leave one bolt in until the knuckle is ready to be removed entirely (a few steps from now).

 

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/DIYS/DISC/strutbolts.jpg

 

Remove the ABS sensor from the drum assembly, if applicable. The existing ABS sensor can be reused with the disc assembly. If there are metallic particles stuck on the magnectic pickup, now is a good time to clean them off. The picture shows the sensor sitting on top of the parking brake cable, which is on top of the trailing link.

 

Remove the trailing link nut and bolt (not shown). This is the nut and bolt on the knuckle assembly that is lowest to the ground.

 

Remove the control arm-to-knuckle nut and bolt. This is the very long bolt that connects the two control arms to the knuckle. Be prepared with some lubricating spray and a lot of wrenching to pull the bolt out.

 

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/DIYS/DISC/controlarm.jpg

 

Remove the last strut bolt (from a few steps ago). Remove the knuckle, along with the parking brake cables. Gently tap the axle with a rubber mallet as you slowly pull the knuckle away from the control arms, strut, trailing link, and axle half-shaft. The axle half-shaft will slide in and out of the center differential as well, so make sure that you don't pull the axle all the way out of the center differential. You may need to use a suitable drift or punch to push the axle the rest of the way out of the wheel hub.

 

I used a block of wood to rest the knuckle assembly while removing it - it's heavy!

 

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/DIYS/DISC/almostout.jpg

 

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/DIYS/DISC/axle.jpg

 

Install the new (or used) brake hose. You may also use stainless steel lines such as those from Goodrich instead of the OEM ones I have chosen.

 

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/DIYS/DISC/dischose.jpg

 

If you haven't already, preassemble the disc knuckle with the parking brake cable (not shown). Don't forget to reinstall the retaining clip that secures the parking brake cable to the knuckle.

 

The caliper and brake pads may be preassembled or left off for now, although it is wise to check the fit beforehand. Once fit looks good, leave the calipers off the knuckle.

 

Insert axle (half-shaft) into the disc hub (not shown). This is simply the reverse of the knuckle removal procedure. Apply grease where necessary. Again, a block of wood helps to hold the knuckle upright during this step.

 

Reinstall the control arm-rod-to-knuckle, trailing link-to-knuckle, and strut-to-knuckle nuts and bolts, in that order. You do not need to worry about alignment, as alignment is done at the other end of the control arms. The torque specs should be about 100 ft·lbs for the strut bolts, 100 ft·lbs for the control arm, and 80 ft·lbs for the trailing link nuts. Install the ABS sensor into the disc knuckle, if applicable.

Install the parking brake cable to the underside of the car, reusing the same bolts and locations as for the drum brake cable. Bring the cable into the parking brake area through the holes in the tunnel floor, and attach the cables to the equalizer. Seat the rubber boot to seal up the tunnel floor holes. Reinstall the cable clamp bolts. Note: if you have a Legacy parking brake cable, it may be too long, and you may need to loop the extra length somewhere under the car.

 

Attach the new brake hose banjo bolt to the caliper. Note that the OEM brake hose has a specific orientation for each side of the car, but I don't remember if the Goodrich lines are this way or not.

 

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/DIYS/DISC/brakehose.jpg

 

Test-fit the rotor disc. It's probably a good idea to turn the rotors if they have high miles on them, appear warped, or are grooved. I got mine turned for $48 at the local Subaru service department, and they did a great job. I later bought a pair of brand new rear rotors from Double Discount Auto for just $30! The industry code for non-vented rear rotors is 470.

 

Check the parking brake cable adjustment. You may need to turn the parking brake adjustment wheel if it's too loose or the rotor won't go in easily. Some trial and error may be required to get the parking brake pads adjusted properly.

 

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/DIYS/DISC/parkingbrake.gif

 

Install the calipers and brake pads.

 

Reinstall the 32mm axle nut. Hand-tighten for now.

 

Reinstall the parking brake cable to the parking brake lever. Replace the carpeting inside the car, and reinstall the seats. Adjust the parking brake using the adjustment nut and locknut. You should be able to count 7-8 clicks until the parking brake is fully applied. Reinstall the parking brake lever skirt, followed by the center console.

 

If the caliper sliders are frozen or rusted, pry the caliper off the slider, clean thoroughly with brake cleaner and a cleaning pad such as scotch-brite, and re-grease with a high-temp grease. If the boots and/or seals are cracked or punctured, replace as necessary from items in the Subaru disc brake seal kit.

 

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/scoobysnack_photo/DIYS/DISC/discassy.jpg

 

Replace with new brake pads if necessary. For most pre-1999 models, the industry rear brake pad code is 471. For 1999 and later models, the brake pad code is 770.

 

Bleed the brakes and top off with new brake fluid.

 

Reinstall the wheels and lower the car so that you can tighten the axle nut to no more than about 135 ft·lbs. However, if you have a helper, you can get him/her to stand on the brakes while you torque the axle nut, and not have to wait until the car is on the ground. (If you have 2.5RS wheels, the fixed center cap doesn't seem to allow access to the axle nut anyways.)

 

Drive carefully while the pads bed in.

 

I noticed that the rear rotors don't get used a lot under light braking, as normal driving barely clears away surface rust on the disc rotors. The brake proportioning valve must have a bias towards the front brakes. However, the rear discs do see a fair bit of duty when the brakes are applied heavily, and that's when this upgrade is valuable. I have also upgrade the 1-pot front calipers to 2-pot calipers, and this combination consumes rear brake pads about twice as fast as front brake pads.

 

I've also noticed that the parking brake is a fair bit sloppier than the old drum setup, since the rear discs utilize a separate inner drum parking brake. This is a small detail, and does not necessarily indicate a problem with the parking brakes. My guess is that the geometry of the smaller inner drum provides less mechanical advantage than the full-size drum setup.

 

Standard disclaimer: This information is being provided as an educational and informational service for the Subaru community. I do not make any warranties, but I will be happy to help with questions about these modifications. Please proceed at your own risk!

Edited by broknindarkagain

-broknindarkagain

My Current Project - Click Here

COME AND TAKE IT

"The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing."

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