markc0220k Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 going a light track day soon. since i'm just a beginner, i'm thinking to simply stronger its (09 spec B) chassis and handling first. so here is my question ... what will i need to do? smiply upgrade like f/r strut, f/r antisway bars, f/r lower arm bar...etc? how about springs? did some search and wow, set of pink springs' are about $500!! how about the brake? is simply set of brakepad can do better job over stocks? or don't waste money on those minor upgrade, go straight to BBK like StopTech? beside, which online vendor can provide all i need so i can just shop once? any suggestion would be very appreciated, thank you so much mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StoplightAssassin Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 For your first ever trackday you don't need to upgrade anything. Just make sure you've kept up with your general maintenance and it's a good idea to bleed the brakes. If you have money burning a hole in your pocket...track pads, good brake fluid, and the right set of tires will make a big difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AShoe Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 Brake pads first. Sway bars second. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slimjoe Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 I'm with StoplightAssassin. For now just do the basics, if your oil is a little old or getting close to the change interval, put new fluid in. If it's been a while since you last changed your brake fluid, that's a good idea too. Otherwise, go as you are now and you'll see what you'll need to modify for the next time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nm Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 Pads and brake fluid (nothing fancy, ATE superblue is fine) I don't think the OEM/OEM type pads will do so well on a track day. I'd recommend something better. I'd also change oil before and after. Really what you need to do is make sure everything is in great shape. CHECK YOUR ROTORS FOR CRACKS. Expect the LCA bushings to tear after a few trackdays, but you can deal with it when you get there. Me, i'd do in order: Brake fluid-->pads-->oil change-->oil temp/pessure gauge-->tires-->a good alignment--> good suspension -->sways (people do sways first because they're cheap, not because they're a good first step. They are more for adjustment, not fixing the car.) -->front LSD -->cooling (may be needed earlier in some climates) --> maybe power Please note that I don't view anything beyond the oil change as necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sub4ru Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 First track day? Just replace your brake fluid and pads. Everything else is fine. Make sure you get at least one cool down lap, and don't use your e-brake in the pits. Otherwise you will leave a heat mark on your rotor from your pad. Don't forget to have fun! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 First track day? Just replace your brake fluid and pads. Everything else is fine. Make sure you get at least one cool down lap, and don't use your e-brake in the pits. Otherwise you will leave a heat mark on your rotor from your pad. Don't forget to have fun! The ebrake is a drum style brake inside the rear rotors, it is not the rear calipers. Why would using it cause a heat mark on the rotors. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markc0220k Posted November 15, 2011 Author Share Posted November 15, 2011 For your first ever trackday you don't need to upgrade anything. Just make sure you've kept up with your general maintenance and it's a good idea to bleed the brakes. . thanks StoplightAssassin, i totally understand. i'd driven miata for almost 12yrs, went few times autox. But now, my spec B is almost half ton fatter than my previous miata! so, i would think if i need some simple chassis upgrade (somehow i still think my 95 stock miata is much stronger than my 09 spec B?! ) thanks for your reminder, of coz, brake is important too, but since my car is just 2yrs old, do i need to change brake fluid...? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markc0220k Posted November 15, 2011 Author Share Posted November 15, 2011 Brake pads first. Sway bars second. afaik, sway bar will increase the load of the chassis, that's why i 'm thinking to add few lower bars.. thanks AShoe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markc0220k Posted November 15, 2011 Author Share Posted November 15, 2011 go as you are now and you'll see what you'll need to modify for the next time. thanks for your suggestion.. it's true that have a race then figure out which area(s) to spend money ...well, i'm sure first thing on my upgrade list will be the driver!! : ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 Tires first. Brake pads/fluid second. Struts and springs third. Sway bars fourth. Bushings fifth. Power last. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markc0220k Posted November 15, 2011 Author Share Posted November 15, 2011 one cool down lap, and don't use your e-brake in the pits. Don't forget to have fun! thanks for your reminder, sub4ru!! i almost forgot to bring my stop mat! thanks!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RochNY91TSI Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 If you're interested in trying out track pads, let me know. I have a set that's got about a day's worth of meat left on them that I would sell for cheap- Hawk DTS-70 front, DTS-60 rears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StoplightAssassin Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 thanks StoplightAssassin, i totally understand. i'd driven miata for almost 12yrs, went few times autox. But now, my spec B is almost half ton fatter than my previous miata! so, i would think if i need some simple chassis upgrade (somehow i still think my 95 stock miata is much stronger than my 09 spec B?! ) thanks for your reminder, of coz, brake is important too, but since my car is just 2yrs old, do i need to change brake fluid...? thanks The Spec B will never handle like a Miata, but then again the Spec B is a much more forgiving car. Your stock fluid is probably fine for daily driving...a bleed will definitely help for the track though. You don't want your brakes fading on the second lap. If you were going to upgrade your fluid, you should go with something with the highest boiling point like Motul RBF 600 or ATE Super Blue. I prefer the Motul. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sachilles Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 I'll echo most of what is above. Needs: New/fresh brake fluid, complete system flush. New brake pads with more than 50% life left. A track oriented pad is suggested. Jack up each corner, check for any play in the wheels, and make sure the tires have life left in them. Nothing worse than getting dinged at tech for something you could have corrected at home. Wants: Better tires Suspension upgrades. In car video and or data logging(if allowed). Much easier to learn what you can improve on if you can see it after the fact. A safe harness/restraint system upgrade. Keeping secure to your seat pays dividends. Take an instructor as much as you are able. Everybody seems to think it's such a big deal to go solo that they rush to do it. Take every bit of instruction you can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nm Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 The ebrake is a drum style brake inside the rear rotors, it is not the rear calipers. Why would using it cause a heat mark on the rotors. Yeah, it is fine to use the ebrake on our cars. Also: Remember your cool down lap! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wpmarky Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 +1 to nm's list. I would go the same order. Brakes, tires, springs, sways, then stg 2 power mods Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kodax Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 Its fine to use ebrake on our cars? I thought it would be dangerous to use it as our front wheels are required to spin at the same rate as the rear wheels. The last time I used my ebrake, there was a chunking sound. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StoplightAssassin Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 There's a difference between yanking the ebrake causing lockup and gradually pulling the handle to slow you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nm Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 Its fine to use ebrake on our cars? I thought it would be dangerous to use it as our front wheels are required to spin at the same rate as the rear wheels. The last time I used my ebrake, there was a chunking sound. We're not talking about drifto, we're talking about parking. Also, check your fluids every lap. A car that has never burned a drop of oil may be a burner during a hard track day. Also, make sure your coolant bottle isn't overfull. That coolant expands a lot and when that happens it can splash out on hard corners. This is different than coolant pushing out of the bottle, if that happens, stop driving. Make sure your tires are in good shape. Basically, that's the case for everything: (but brakes) You don't need anything fancy, but it better be in great shape. If you do try OEM pads, I'd recommend not driving them with less than 50% of the pad left and bring some backup pads in case you destroy them, at least for the fronts. These car eat brake pads. A safe harness/restraint system upgrade. Keeping secure to your seat pays dividends. I don't really like the idea of real harnesses without a cage. Something like a CG lock will do wonders though. I second what you said, re:instructors. I always get an instructor the first time I run a track even though I've done quite a few track days. The day you think you're a great driver beyond error who can't benefit from the advice of others is the day you meet a wall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StoplightAssassin Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 fixed Also, check your fluids after every lapping session. A car that has never burned a drop of oil may be a burner during a hard track day. I use this to keep me in place in the stock seats for autox. Best 25 bucks I've ever spent. http://www.gforce.com/products/netsanres/4290.php Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sachilles Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 I don't really like the idea of real harnesses without a cage. Something like a CG lock will do wonders though. I second what you said, re:instructors. I always get an instructor the first time I run a track even though I've done quite a few track days. The day you think you're a great driver beyond error who can't benefit from the advice of others is the day you meet a wall. I don't disagree with you at all, that is why I phrased it the way I did. I did not specify a 5 point harness. I'm very much on the bandwagon of 5/6/7 point harnesses only being in caged cars. It can be as simple as doing the twist the belt thing and engage the lock trick. I'm pretty gung ho about cages/harness and safety in general. I've found them to be useful.http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj91/sachilles/Ross/th_IMG_3596.jpgThis only hurt my pride. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 Cages, harnesses, and harness bars don't belong in street cars. Period. A CG lock or the twist trick aren't a bad idea, though. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sachilles Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 Cages, harnesses, and harness bars don't belong in street cars. Period. I think the more appropriate way to look at it is this. A human doesn't belong in a caged car, unless strapped in with a harness and wearing a helmet. The type of car is irrelevant. They are a system that work in concert with each other. Failure to wear a helmet or a race harness in said caged car, risks having the drivers noggin smack against the cage structure. Whether you have sfi padding on the bars or not it hurts(just getting in the car). At accident speeds, you risk cracking your skull on the cage structure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nm Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 I think the more appropriate way to look at it is this. A human doesn't belong in a caged car, unless strapped in with a harness and wearing a helmet. The type of car is irrelevant. They are a system that work in concert with each other. Failure to wear a helmet or a race harness in said caged car, risks having the drivers noggin smack against the cage structure. Whether you have sfi padding on the bars or not it hurts(just getting in the car). At accident speeds, you risk cracking your skull on the cage structure. Very true. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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