Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

DIY Skidplate


Recommended Posts

Here it is. I made a skidplate for our cars to replace the flimsy OEM plate. Mine cracked in half last winter so this was a priority to get done before the snow fell again.

 

You'll need a 48"x48"x0.1875" piece of plastic or metal, your choice of whatever material you choose. I used UHMW Polyethylene and bought it from Midland Plastics in New Berlin, WI for $69.79 after tax. You'll also need a tape measure, a permanent marker, a 9/16" drill bit or spaded bit, and 3- M8x1.25x30mm bolts (stainless steel so they don't rust in winter).

 

All in all this took me 4 hours to complete, but I was messing around at the hardware store and had to do the test-fitting and such. For you guys it shouldn't take more than 1-1/2 hrs.

 

One more thing: if you're using plastic like I did, you may want to drill another hole toward the rear and zip-tie the plate to the control arms so it doesn't sag too much. For me, this was a temporary fix as I didn't feel like running back to the hardware store and buying some channels to stiffen the plate. I have to do an oil change in a few weeks so I'll be removing the plate then, and I will let you all know how it goes. I decided not to drill holes for the drain plug and oil filter to get the most aerodynamic benefit- I took the car out later that night and noticed that I can coast farther with this on than I could without any plate on.

 

Enjoy!

 

20121201_153657.thumb.jpg.7367f9ca4135e74ce1241648fc34ed67.jpg

 

20121201_153738.thumb.jpg.cae657f35f61dd90b909c21f40d6988e.jpg

 

20121201_154253.thumb.jpg.e4f23cd3b37ed8651eebfb7bf3ef852f.jpg

 

1655074915_SkidplateDims.thumb.JPG.cc75527c1778a165525af25f0a7f6afe.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 79
  • Created
  • Last Reply
I made the template on a CAD modeling program at work, so the first number is millimeters (sorry, forgot to remove those. Maybe ehsnils will use them :lol:) and the second number in the brackets are dimensions in inches.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators
Also, any recommendation on how to find a place that might carry that type of material? I actually started looking when you first mentioned this, but the only thing I've found so far that might work for a reasonable amount is a piece of lexan. I think the clear might look a bit funny, but would certainly be nice for being able to see any issues right away, i.e. leaking fluids.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To cut the material I used a circular saw and a cordless drill with some spaded bits. Be sure to use two hands with the drill, because if you slow down and the bit catches in the plastic, the torque will twist the drill out of your hand.

 

No matter what type of polymer material you use, make sure to get something that is impact resistant, abrasion resistant, chemically resistant, and ultimately strong. I would recommend Polycarbonate (lexan), ABS, or UHMW Polyethylene, and many other types of acrylates. If you get a polymer material you'll surely want something thicker than the metallic counterpart. 3/16" is the thinnest I would go with any polymer material

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just an update, last night I did a bit of highway driving (20 miles each way). With my own throttle modulation I got 28mpg. Warm-up times are quicker, and I can tell that once my car is above 40mph I can tell there's a noticeable increase in mileage. Last night on a cold start, 5 miles of hilly country-driving in 40 degree weather I still got 26mpg.

 

I just bought a sheet of 4'x4' polycarbonate off craigslist the other day to make a rear plate. Once I get that mocked up I'll post more pictures and dimensions

 

looks good! someone should make a group buy for these for sure have a couple buyers

 

Don't think the cost would add up there.

 

Unless I did around 30 of these for $125/ea, I don't think there's enough profit to make it worthwhile after paying the vendor fee

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is great for a replacement for the stock undertray, but I would not rely on this to provide any significant protection against impact.
[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators
This is great for a replacement for the stock undertray, but I would not rely on this to provide any significant protection against impact.

 

Will likely provide the same impact protection as stock if not a bit more depending on the material used. More for aerodynamics, engine bay air movement, and protection from salt / grime though.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I understand that, and YOU understand that. But others might not.

 

This isn't really a skidplate, but more of an undertray replacement. I think most people would be wise to consider making one and replacing the stock tray if they've lost theirs.

 

I also think people should take note of the temperature tolerance of the material they choose, since it's right next to the exhaust manifold.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators
I understand that, and YOU understand that. But others might not.

 

This isn't really a skidplate, but more of an undertray replacement. I think most people would be wise to consider making one and replacing the stock tray if they've lost theirs.

 

I also think people should take note of the temperature tolerance of the material they choose, since it's right next to the exhaust manifold.

 

Yeah, looking at the material specs I was actually a bit concerned about the max operating temps. I think I'll line it with some foil tape where the manifolds are to be safe.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I also think people should take note of the temperature tolerance of the material they choose, since it's right next to the exhaust manifold.

 

I also took note of that, but figured that you have a steady flow of cold air on the other side of the plate to keep it cool, along with air coming through the engine bay (albeit not as much, or as cool). Yes, it will be warm, but so far I haven't smelt anything funky. This morning I took a peek underneath and everything looked normal. I have to do an oil change in 1000 miles and take the plate off- if there's any sign of heat damage I'll get some thermal tape and slap it on the plate or wrap the exhaust manifold

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Offroaders and rock crawlers use this stuff as skid plates because it is slicker than metal and wont get hung up as easily. Granted, they usually use stuff that is much thicker. You can buy the thinner stuff and do an aluminum backing to maintain some rigidity and take some hits. Takes more bolts though. Similar material is used in dump truck liners as well because it is slippery.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use