rizzle84 Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 Hey all- I just got my 94 Wagon AWD Auto inspected and on the road after buying it a couple weeks ago. I started commuting to work in it this week (about 60 mi. round trip) and my mileage over the past few days is a really awful 18 or 19. All interstate pretty much too, NO city whatsoever (I live in the sticks). Is there something I can do to get that back on track? I'm not expecting hybrid mileage but 25 would be really nice. I checked air filter, looks old but not dirty. I just put new spark plugs in it too, Bosch platinum 2s. I'm wondering if it's some kind of O2 sensor or related intake/exhaust sensor. Any thoughts would be incredible Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 Check out the mpg sticky in the second gen forum: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2nd-gen-engine-faq-turbos-mpg-engine-builds-engine-swaps-167968.html I'd still replace the air filter. A good idea is to replace the air filter, fuel filter, all new plugs (I like NGKs), new wires, new pcv valve, clean the throttle body. Do you have any CELs? I get about 20-22 city and 27ish highway. Check your injectors, and ignition coil. Clean your MAF sensor too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rizzle84 Posted January 24, 2013 Author Share Posted January 24, 2013 When I bought it I did have a CEL when the engine warmed up but after the spark plug change it hasn't come back on. I haven't figured out what the code was but it seems like it was a knock sensor. I'm wondering if the timing might be off. The engine for some reason just doesn't sound smooth, it feels kind of chunky but I know it isn't missing and there aren't any vibrations. I don't know what it' s supposed to sound or feel like because I've never owned a car with this engine. I know what an inline four would sound like out of time but this is new to me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rizzle84 Posted January 24, 2013 Author Share Posted January 24, 2013 Also, it does seem like it lacks a little power. I don't have anything to compare it to though but it feels like it could give more Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snederhiser Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 Hello; First I would pull the codes that are stored in the memory before I would start throwing bucks at this. Sounds like your catalytic converter is starting to plug-up. If you ever had someone stick a potatoe up the exhaust pipe, you know what I mean. Usually I can tell by placing my hand at the exhaust pipe and checking for flow, another sign is that rotten egg smell. Maybe the muffler is coming apart inside blocking flow. Most muffler shops are going to install a universal cat and if you are handy so can you! Don't be lazy, check the stored codes first and troubleshoot from there. But my money is on the cat, Steven. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rizzle84 Posted January 24, 2013 Author Share Posted January 24, 2013 Would that affect the rhythm of the exhaust? Because it sounds uneven but doesn't feel wrong through any vibrations or anything like that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 Start by buying a spray can of MAF cleaner. It may work wonders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LGTLtd Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 Does the transmission seem to be shifting OK? What are your RPMs Highway? All I need now is a hill holder and a center passing light... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rizzle84 Posted January 24, 2013 Author Share Posted January 24, 2013 It seems fine. Around 2800 going 70 mph Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnstrmech Posted January 26, 2013 Share Posted January 26, 2013 GET RID OF THOSE HORRIBLE BOSCH PLUGS!!!! they are a joke. Just get the NGK copper plugs that should be in there. Copper burns hotter, so you will get a more complete burn. Trust me on this one, Im an ASE certified technician. Easy way to know if your cat is working is to look for moisture coming from the tailpipe, if you have moisture, your cat is working. Water is the by-product of a working cat. 18-19mpg in cold weather on the highway is fairly normal for your legacy. That was the mpg i was getting before i did a great mod that i will explain. Which brings me to your rpm's. Next trip keep an eye on your rpm's. I learned about this myself. 2800 rpm's is a bit high at 70 mph. My 93 runs around 2400 fully warmed up. What i mean about this is the Subaru's ecu keeps the transmission out of torque converter lock-up (tcc lock-up) to warm the transmission fluid up faster, and takes a while before kicking it in. I noticed my tcc wont lock in for about 10 or so miles, KILLING my mpg's. I posted in this post http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/torque-lockup-switchii-197186.html on how to re-wire the "manual" button on the shifter to command the TCC on. it was quite easy.... the "manual" button conversion i did a while ago is easy too. On the TCU module (under the dash, just next to the steering column), the one 20pin connector thats closest to the front, pin 6 is a blue w/ yellow stripe, that is the "manual" control. I snipped that wire, left at least 1 inch on the pin, and the other side of the wire i connected to a relay to turn the ground signal (which the other end of the blue\yellow wire runs to the switch, which goes to ground) into positive voltage. take the switched side of the relay that is positive and tap into the wire for the torque converter wire... which i believe is the red/yellow??? Dont quote me on that... I should do a schematic for this.............................................. ... "power" mode is easier.... i took the pin from pin 6 (the short 1" blue/yellow wire) and put that two spots over to pin 4... ran that to a switch that the other side is ground... so flip the switch... that pin see ground.... and power mode is active...... VOILA'!....... lol.... BTW.....IF you do the TCC switch mod..... DO NOT TOUCH THE "MANUAL" BUTTON ON YOUR SHIFTER TILL YOUR AT LEAST 40-45MPH!!!!! once you push the button... the TCC will kick in... and the amber "manual" light on your dash will light up.... I did this mod cause i drive on the highway about 20 miles one way to work, and i noticed the rpm's run about 2700 or so at 65... then when i was about to get off the highway... it was 2200... so i researched and found the tcc doesnt get locked up till it hits a certain temp,,, KILLING mpg.. so i went from approx 17/18 mpg to 25mpg by kicking on the tcc as soon as getting up to speed on the highway...... just got to remember to turn off the switch before slowing down on the ramp....... if ya want pics... gonna have to wait... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silly Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 Mnstrmech... This info regarding the TCC Mod is GOLD!! I have been trying to figure out how the TCC Locked and what was going on with the gearing on my '97 for some time. I had realized the same thing watching my tach. Thank You Very Much. Work is 35 miles for me, and almost all of it is highway, all down hill (one way it is anyway). Does it hurt the transaxle if you coast in neutral? From what I gather, as long as you rev match when going back into "D" it should be alright no? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnstrmech Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 silly, you hit another great trick that i do.....coasting in neutral with an auto. I do it ALL the time, we have not a lot of hills, but enough. And once your exit ramp comes up just pop it in neutral and coast the whole way........... and you can put it back in drive ANY time you want, you wont hurt anything at all. As a matter of fact, i used to shut off my old car on this one hill(it was a manual), and coast the whole way, then when i slowed enough, i just put it in gear, release the clutch,and seamlessly keep moving.. lol Someone asked about the TCC conversion, that was my write up. Maybe do a fresh thread on it?.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snederhiser Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 Hello; I do not believe that NGK has a copper plated core for their spark plugs. I think this is Champion marketing hype. I would use V-Power plugs, BKR6E-11(2756). I have heard that some bosch plugs do not work in certain engines? Have not seen this yet but usually go with manufacturers recommendations. Loved you lockout idea but would worry about increased cold pressure. Maybe a coolant bypass would be a good idea during the cold weather? Maybe using atf+4 synthetic fluid would help, Steven. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silly Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 I have always coasted in my stick shifts, engine off, bump start when i would drop below 40 or so. The brake booster is the only thing I have found that could get damaged (using brakes long after all vacuum has been spent). there is about 3000ft in elevation difference from here to work. Lots of coasting opportunities. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ihada147 Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 I don't think it's a good idea to coast in neutral with an automatic, because the atf isn't being pumped everywhere including the propeller shaft, I mean if this is done all the time it could hurt the output area since there isn't any type of lubrication going back there and you'd have heat building up. Unless of course i'm mistaken about the way subaru auto transmissions work (which I probably am) isn't that the same reason they have to get dollies for the rear wheels when towing any car that isn't fwd or stick? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnstrmech Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 as a matter of fact, ALL NGk spark plugs have a copper core, even the platinum and iridium, the difference being the ground electrode. Its just common that most people refer to the more "standard", cheaper type plugs, even though the actual ground electrode is a nickel alloy. But yes, the NGK V- power is a great plug for these engines. You will NOT damage an auto trans coasting, period. Even coasting with the trans in neutral, the hydraulic pump is still spinning and fluid is still circulating thru the trans. I use and suggest the Valvoline Max-Life trans fluid, which is synthetic, and a great fluid. I also have a bottle of Lubegard red added.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94legacy22 Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 just saying my 94 with a 5speed @ 75 is doing 3,000rpms. and getting 27-28mpg on highway 22-23 city Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiyo1990 Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 Mnstr, you are correct there. Valvoline rocks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleaidestar Posted January 31, 2013 Share Posted January 31, 2013 That lubeguard is gold for an auto tranny, I had some torque bind issues in my bd and I did two fluid changes within 500 miles with the valvoline and added the lube guard with the last change and its a completely different transmission now...shifting is crisper, I don't get a jolt anymore taking turns under partial throttle. Very good stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnstrmech Posted January 31, 2013 Share Posted January 31, 2013 many transmission shops around here use it in thier rebuilds, my last shop had a bunch of bottles, thats how i got my bottle... lol http://www.smileyvault.com/albums/stock/smiley-love0030.gif to lubegaurd and Valvoline Max-Life trans fluid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silly Posted February 17, 2013 Share Posted February 17, 2013 If the engine is running, then the ATF is being pumped in the trans, which is why you need to have it running to check the atf level - but, if you were coast while the motor was off, then yes, stuff gets hot... all bad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bdubs Posted February 17, 2013 Share Posted February 17, 2013 I was just buying ATF and Lubegard, I can't find Lubegard Red anywhere anymore. My independent part shop that used to carry it. He bought 50 bottles from a supplier a few years ago, that was going out of business, and he can't even get it anymore from another supplier. I bought some Wynn's ATF additive...we'll see what this does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnstrmech Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 You have an O'Reilly auto in your area? They stock it... also Napa and Carquest carry it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enzotheracer Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 you could get some sea foam and pour down your throttle and let it sit for about 20 mins. then start it. you are going to have to give it some gas at first to get it started. after that let it idle. if you see white smoke it's normal. it's just burning off the sea foam and all the crap that is in the motor. you would want to snap the throttle every once and a while ( like 10 or 15 min) until the smoke clears. works wonders. that and a bottle of heat in the gas tank helps as well its like 3 bucks for the heat and like 12 or so for the sea foam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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