Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Passenger Axle Replacement - Can't get old Axle out! Help!!


Recommended Posts

Hey everyone!

 

I consider myself fairly mechanically inclined and this seemingly easy job has left me feeling defeated and highly incapable.

 

I started the job step by step following the DIY and promptly sheared the lower ball joint retaining bolt. A little upset, I knew I could complete the job anyway, since I had read other methods on the board.

 

I started in by removing the bolts off the strut lower and endlink bolt, knowing I'd have to get alignment, which I needed anyways. I couldn't get the axle to separate from the hub. At first I was gentle, then I started prying, then I started going for broke with a pin/BFH combo. Nothing moved.

 

I then reassembled everything and read another method that involved removing the Lower Control Arm bolts. I did that, seems to have enough wiggle room... pull, pry, beat.... nothing.

 

I left it like that overnight and soaked everything in PB. I picked up a jaw puller today, resoaked and went back at it, again, to no avail.

 

I've now given up. LCA is removed, lower ball joint still in place, caliper, rotor removed, lower strut bolts removed... The axle is just hanging there and won't come out of the transmission nor hub with any amount of coaxing.

 

What am I missing? Please!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's technical called a steering wheel puller from back in my day.

 

 

OP spray PB Blaster around the hub bearing spindle interface if you have removed the 4 bolts it's only rust holding the hub in the spindle.

 

You should be able to slide the hub off the axle once the Lower ball joint or in this case LCA is un bolted.

 

You should not have to touch the lower strut bolts at the top of the spindle.

 

You can get a new spindle from the dealer for about $130.00 than a new ball joint.

 

You need to get the broken bolt that holds the ball joint in, out of the spindle. That can be impossible.

 

Just remove the top spindle bolts from the bottom of the strut and remove the hub/ spindle with LCA from the axle splines.

 

 

You did buy a OEM hub, right ?

 

 

 

 

You can use a impact gun to remove the castle nut from the ball joint after you remove all the cotter pin. Or pay someone at a repair shop to do it for you.

 

Use Anti-sieze compound on all the nut's and bolts when you reassemble.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a set of knuckles that I bought with broken BJ bolts. Take the knuckle to a machine shop and have them chuck it up in a mill and run the correct sized mill through the hole and it will bore the old bolt out. (I know this is possible because I have done it to both of the knuckles I bought as extras) Once he has bored the hole/old bolt out, have him machine a flat on the other side of the knuckle where the bolt was broken and then use a grade 8 through bolt and nylock nut with a flat washer. It eliminates this problem from ever happening again. Remove the BJ as it's trashed by now anyways (I use an air chisel and a lot of swearing) and once it's out, clean the hole it goes in as clean as possible (I use a wire brush on the end of a cordless drill and force it into the hole) and then anti seize the hell out of it. Put your new BJ in and use the through bolt and DON'T overtighten it and all is well.

 

It's a LOT cheaper than buying a new knuckle and eliminates the problem from ever happening again if you decide to keep the car for a long time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Get a cost estimate from the machine shop first

 

http://www.trademotion.com/parts/2006/SUBARU/LEGACY/GT/?siteid=216335&vehicleid=1432596&diagram=7523345

 

$116 for the knuckle. What's the machine shop plus your labor to remove the ball joint worth ?

 

Make sure that link is the correct year. They should all be the same.

 

 

When I needed the knuckle, my dealer parts person had it over nighted and delivered it to my trust mechanic for the cost of the part.

 

Great service from the Parts Dept.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, fortunately for me I have access to the mill and tools, so it didn't cost me anything but a little bit of time. But Max is correct in finding out what they would want to do it. I have seen some machine shops charge incredibly high fees for what is a pretty basic operation (i.e.-had a small part heliarced-about 3" long and they charged me $65. $22 an inch was a bit high in my opinion especially since it took them about 10 minutes to do) and sometimes they will say "sure, we can do that, come back next Wednesday" and by then you would already have your new knuckle and have it on the car and driving it.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yea, I learned the hard way. But my trusted mechanic buddy also learned. With these cars, he now tells customers it's cheaper to buy the knuckle and ball joint instead of paying his guy 3 hours labor to heat/beat and remove the ball joint.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the input guys. Much appreciated.

 

I wasn't being rough enough on the tranny end and was able to get it to pop last night.

 

I'm in deep. The only thing I have left connecting the LCA to the "car" is the steering. I have the hub pointed to the ceiling and it's been soaking in PB blaster with a jaw puller applying pressure for about 24 hours. I can't put anymore pressure on the axle with the jaw puller either by hand or with an impact.

 

My next step is to disconnect the steering knuckle and take the whole thing to a shop to see if the axle can be pressed out.

 

My thoughts on the Ball Joint Pinch bolt were to drill it out (myself) and just use a nut and bolt going forward , which I've already acquired. After reading JmP6889928's advice, I suppose that may not suffice? What would be the problem with drilling it out myself and not having the flat milled?

 

At this point I'm looking at $287 for new knuckle, hub, ball joint and associated hardware. Might just be best to bite the bullet.

 

Anything I should know about disconnecting the outer tie rod? I've never done it before.

 

Again, thanks for all your help and input.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The bolt stub is WAYYYY hard, believe it or not. If you have a good drill press and a way to clamp the knuckle down, you could most likely use a ti coated or boron drill and get through it. If you can get a hole through the center that's not all the way out, you may be able to just break the rest of the pieces out of the threads.

 

Good luck my friend. I know how damn frustrating this kind of crap can be.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Outer tie rod, remove all the cotter pin. then back off the nut. Leave the nut on the threads and hit the side of the end with a BMFH. You do the same to remove the lower ball joint. You hit the side of the knuckle with the hammer until the LCA pops. You have to check it after few hits to see if its popped loose.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use