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since this car in no longer i figure i would put up what it ended with.

 

Mod list:

 

engine:

stock longblock

uel headers

erg delete

iacv delete

ms2 standalone

perrin v1 fuel rails

650cc dw injectors

light weight pulleys

short ram with cone

 

drivetrain

2000-2002 jdm 4.44 from a RA

act heavyduty pressure plate

act 6 puck unsprung clutch disk

stock 2002 flywheel

2004 pedal asembles

4.44 open rear diff with soild mounts

sti transmission mount

stock short shifter from the ra

 

interiors be stripped

remaining parts

front seat

door cards

power windows

dash/no airbags

ebay 6 bolt steering wheel

 

 

exterior

silver

black plastic dipped hood and rackless roof

stock snowflakes with powder coat and nitto performance snow tires

jdm blacked out and cleared headlights with 5000k hids for highbeams and angry eyes around the projectors from lightwerks.

 

 

suspension

25mm adjustable swaybar with soild endlinks

front tower brace

 

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/11/24/ajeze2uj.jpg

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What do you mean that they have to be angled a certain way? They go in straight...can't really be angled

 

Here are torque instructions.

 

| C A F |

| E B D |

-----

 

1) Install the cylinder head and gaskets on cylinder block.

CAUTION:

• Replace cylinder head gaskets with new ones.

• Be careful not to scratch the mating surface of cylinder block and cylinder head.

2) Tighten the cylinder head bolts.

(1) Apply a coat of engine oil to the washers and bolt threads.

(2) Tighten all bolts to 29 N·m (3.0 kgf-m, 22 ftlb) in alphabetical sequence.

(3) Tighten all bolts to 69 N·m (7.0 kgf-m, 51 ftlb) in alphabetical sequence.

(4) Back off all bolts in reverse order of assembly by 180° first; back them off by 180° again.

(5) Tighten bolts A and B to 34 Nm

 

and bolts C-D to 15 Nm

(6) Tighten all bolts by 90°

(7) Tighten all bolts a further 90°

 

CAUTION:

Do not tighten bolts more than 90° in total angle

-broknindarkagain

My Current Project - Click Here

COME AND TAKE IT

"The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing."

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F&D would be the front of the engine (timing side). That diagram is as if you're looking right at the head as its mounted on the engine

-broknindarkagain

My Current Project - Click Here

COME AND TAKE IT

"The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing."

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ok thanks, what should i remove or add to the machine shop list.

 

valve job(wanna look at them first. can i buy or make a valve spring compressor?)

Hot tank items like, block, heads, head cover, water pipe. intake mani.

check crank shaft journals and mains.

maybe have the crank chamfered

hone, and if needed bore out to 100mm

 

anything less or more?

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just take the complete head to the machine shop. Have them port/polish and put oversized valves into it...but leave all of that for the machine shop to do.

 

all of the block work, let the machine shop do. idk how much you will be able to bore it since its open deck. Isn't stock bore 93mm? Taking 7mm off of the metal might be a little too much.

 

the main journals are likely fine, but the machine shop will be able to take care of them for you if they are not.

-broknindarkagain

My Current Project - Click Here

COME AND TAKE IT

"The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing."

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stock bore is 99.5

 

and the over size vavles... thats money, i may or may not have. the porting i like, and sweet. they can take the heads apart and ill give them new valve seals or they just got there own? ill ask oem valve seals are fine right?

 

miles well have them tap the passengers head for oil lines too while they have them.

 

and the shortblock.. you mean just bring the whole them to them? the only things im reusing are the block halves and crank so ill take that apart....plus i wanna just because ill be putting it together.

 

and again about the over size valves. you mean like 1mm plus and cloverleaf the camber? what that gonna run me.

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you got me to where i wanna rebuild mine. :/ though mine isn't gonna be running. i cant get in to it. bolts are stripped. :/

 

I cant split the bolts cause i cant get in to the two little things in the bell housing. :/ the hex things are stripped out. :/ and the others are phillips head screws. i gotta get a bigger freaking screw driver to get em. :/

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its 2557.1 cc motor we have stock.. bored to 100mm puts it at 2481.86 CC

 

thats about 6.2 cc's more per cylinder

 

Are you sure about that? Because if 100mm gets you to 2481, that would be less then the stock 2557.1

 

something doesnt add up

-broknindarkagain

My Current Project - Click Here

COME AND TAKE IT

"The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing."

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