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Perrin Turbo Inlet


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*Please note the date of the OP; this venture was undertaken using the original iteration of this hose on an '05 GT. Newer hose and/or car models may have some differences, so read on through the other replies first if this applies to you. Hopefully the OP can still help either way.*

 

First off:

Your package is not complete. Go to the store and buy several 7/8-5/16 range worm clamps. Get one sized to fit the oem recirc hose, as well. Pick up a bottle of rubbing alcohol (to ease the job and maybe for the scraped knuckles you will incur). You may want to pick up a length of 1/2" (or slightly larger) pcv hose just to be on the safe side (not really needed, as the 1/2" hose included in your kit will juuuust make it if you get it right -- if you don't have a spare car, spend the 5 bucks now, and return item later).

 

For the inlet job itself, you'll need:

- a good-handled, not too sharp, flathead.

- 12mm socket (a small extension helps).

- vice grips.

- needle nose.

- electric tape -- go with the good stuff; it's going to see some heat.

- mech gloves -- not optional.

- sharp blade.

- to know that your engine cover doesn't fit after this :)

- faith -- i'm not kidding, it will seem impossible at least once.

- holy water, bible (okay, now I'm kidding :))

 

The directions are at best a mere compass for your own common sense; but follow them. The omissions of detail almost make it seem as though they were written by a sadist who is secretly now watching with glee from the bushes at your surprises and frustration; just know that they are good for order of ops and don't really contain outright lies if interpeted loosely.

Fact is, while this install is a bit challenging, with a GOOD set of instructions, it would be much easier for a first-timer.

It is a VERY good idea to study the service manual if you are unfamiliar with the PCV system and vac routing, but that alone won't save you from some pitfalls.

 

Hints:

- The diagrams are just that; measure your actual splicing in real life :)

 

- The 1/2" hose is just long enough, so measure your cut on the vent hose (where the kit's included plastic 'tee' will go) very carefully; it will be closer to the hard "y" pcv pipe than you may imagine. Use your purchased longer length pcv hose if you wish a less stressful step here; if you bought a slightly larger diameter than 1/2", be sure to take up the slack with clamps.

 

- Subaru blessed us with a 'specialty' clamp on the car's crank vent tee that you need to remove; after the act of god occurs to get it off, don't bother trying to reinstall it unless you have the equally 'special' tool; just use one of those worm jobs you bought -- BTW, getting the virgin 1/2" hose on there is fun, too, even with a dab of oil from the dipstick as lube.

 

- The other place you need one of those clamps is on the 3/8-1/2" reducer you will put in the "large hose under manifold" (nice wording, Perrin :rolleyes:) -- let's say: it's the only 1/2" hose that was attached to the inlet, and it is rather short and straight. You'll need the clamp here because that "1/2" hose" is more like 19/32", lol -- and Perrin thought it'd be cute to provide you with a smaller reducer than required. While the instructions' ziptie solution will leave you astonished that it was even recommended, the clamp you bought will take up the slack very nicely.

 

- You can get that odd allen key bolt holding the stock inlet to the manifold loose with vise grips if you can't find/don't have the right bit; just remember you're dealing with plastic, so be careful.

 

- Note well the small vac line running from the turbo to the boost solenoid before trying to tuck the inlet under the mani for the big fight; it's easy to hang up on and perhaps tear or detach.

 

- When trying to fit the small end of the hose on the turbo comp inlet, you MUST WORK WITH BOTH ENDS AT THE SAME TIME. Push, twist, angle from the fat intake end, guide the lip carefully (but with purpose) with your flathead on the small end.

Mine tended to go toward the driver side and needed to be "lipped" onto the passenger side of the compressor inlet. Luckily this part, once guided, is a good fit.

Remember to get your clamp on there (pushed back towards the recirc port) loosely BEFORE you go at it -- or you'll be doing your second inlet install 5 minutes later for the dumbest reason ever :).

 

- Out of sheer relief, you may be tempted to tighten down the comp inlet clamp once fitted to the base, DON'T; you can slide it up and get it ready once the hose is fully seated, but it needs to stay loose for the necessary wiggle room to get the recirc hose fitted in properly, which allows very little room/line-up error margin for entry, and will likely require a 'twist' of the inlet hose.

 

- Rubbing alcohol will make the aluminum fittings slide like butter into silicone; it made things go a bit easier here and there, and will clean the silicone well when done -- worth the 50 cents or whatever.

 

- The supplied aluminum recirc fitting is juuuuust oversized enough, not only so that it's a royal pita to get it in the oem recirc hose, but also so that the stock black tension clamp is rendered useless; use a properly-sized worm gear. I've read some boiling water can soften the oem hose end up a bit.

 

Sorry, no pics cuz I did this in silly cold temps b/c I (correctly) divined my stocker was torn :0

Like all of the Perrin stuff I've tried, I actually like the piece very much once installed.

Hope this helps shave some hours for inlet noobs :).

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  • 2 weeks later...

longest inlet install ever :redface:

the hangups mentioned above washed me out the first afternoon; second afternoon went well :)

I'd recommend a well-prepped rookie to still alot himself an afternoon at least.

All in all it's probably 45 minutes of actual work, and 2-3 hours of cursing the engineers of what you encounter ;)

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  • 2 years later...
I have one thats going on in the spring when the weather gets better. I am thinking that taking pictures of where the hoses are to begin with might be usefull in the end. :) From what I read here I am gessing patience is key with this install.
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Good write up. Wish I had it when I did mine. I would've been expecting the bloody knuckles I received. The hardest part for me was getting the BOV return hose around the coupler. It's in such a PITA spot but all it takes is some patience and some swearing.

 

And in case you bought it used like I did and didn't even get directions.....here ya go:

http://www.perrinperformance.com/shared/PERRIN/documents/instructions/subaru/pspint420.pdf

(Note: These directions are for an 05 LGT)

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  • 2 months later...
is this really different than doing one on a sti style manifold? i did my inlet on my wrx a few years ago and the one on my leggy is leaking so plan on doing this. and the 05-06 and 07+ use different inlets right?
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  • 2 months later...
  • 9 months later...

Was the perrin inlet redesigned after the 08 WRX version came out? On their site they show a different instruction set for the LGT's now and it's the same part number as the 08 WRX inlet.

 

I got an inlet from infamous and it's the 08 WRX/LGT inlet. It has ports in different locations and different parts in the kit. Here are both instructions to compare:

2005 LGT as mentioned in this thread: http://www.perrinperformance.com/shared/PERRIN/documents/instructions/subaru/pspint420.pdf

 

The one I got that they list under LGT on their site, http://www.perrinperformance.com/shared/PERRIN/documents/instructions/subaru/pspint421.pdf

 

I've emailed perrin and will post back what I hear.

 

new inlet:

http://www.perrinperformance.com/products/show/397/Turbo-Inlet-Hose-LGT-08-WRX?category=3&model=10

 

Fits all Legacy GT models 2005-2008

 

Fits all WRX 2008+

 

Fits 2009+ Forrester XT

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I was correct, the inlet has been redesigned and therefore the notes in this thread are not completely applicable anymore.

 

"Brett,

 

Thanks for your question! The PSP-INT-420 is the old part that we no longer sell. We stopped selling it about 9 months ago. The new part, PSP-INT-421 is the new part with the molded in BOV return hose and extra spigot by the turbo."

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...
  • 7 months later...
Was the perrin inlet redesigned after the 08 WRX version came out? On their site they show a different instruction set for the LGT's now and it's the same part number as the 08 WRX inlet.

 

I got an inlet from infamous and it's the 08 WRX/LGT inlet. It has ports in different locations and different parts in the kit. Here are both instructions to compare:

2005 LGT as mentioned in this thread: http://www.perrinperformance.com/shared/PERRIN/documents/instructions/subaru/pspint420.pdf

 

The one I got that they list under LGT on their site, http://www.perrinperformance.com/shared/PERRIN/documents/instructions/subaru/pspint421.pdf

 

I've emailed perrin and will post back what I hear.

 

new inlet:

http://www.perrinperformance.com/products/show/397/Turbo-Inlet-Hose-LGT-08-WRX?category=3&model=10

 

Fits all Legacy GT models 2005-2008

 

Fits all WRX 2008+

 

Fits 2009+ Forrester XT

I installed the Perrin Inlet on my 2005 Outback XT today.

 

The issue is that originally Perrin made a PSP-420 Inlet and now its PSP-421

 

The original one was made for the legacy and the newer one is now made for the 08 Up WRX.

 

They are identical with one exception, the BOV port is more toward the front of the car.

 

Unfortunately perrin quit making the one that fit better on the legacy for the one that fits better on the WRX.

 

I found out today that the key to putting this on a legacy is to use the WRX BOV tube.

 

The WRX BOV tube that connects to the inlet has more of a bend in it toward the end where it goes on the inlet port.

 

That bend, bends more toward the front of the car. This is the reason for the Change in the Perrin Inlet.

 

I just happened to have a whole 08 UP WRX intake manifold with everything still on it sitting in my garage that I was pulling parts off of.

 

I took the BOV tube off the WRX inlet/manifold and it fit perfect on my Outback XT with the Perrin Inlet.

 

So bottom line is to make the Inlet line up better just get a WRX BOV tube and you are good to go.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have to say, this thread was essential to easing my mind on this install. It took me 4+ hours of fighting when I installed one on my 2002 WRX, so I was not excited to replace this in my Leggy.

 

I've had vac issues for a while and have replaced or checked everything else, and based on the gross oily crap accumulating on top of the visible hose by the turbo side, I (correctly!) guessed that this was torn/worn and leaking. Bunch of nice holes by the clamping area, and the hose there had the consistency and resiliency of a gummy bear. I guess heat and oil will do that after a while... the accordion section of mine was fine.

 

Like someone else said, it took about 30-40 minutes of real work and 2 hours of cursing the engineers who put hoses where they did. Really not as bad as I was expecting. This was the newer PSP-421 kit, and on my 2008 LGT required no hose splicing, and everything was pretty obvious where it went when looking at the new hose versus the old. BOV return hose was a pain, nothing else was too bad though.

 

Very happy with my turbo inlet, thank you LGT members for all the good advice!

DSCN5233.JPG.0f0906ed22048ef59824f9a1a44474e4.JPG

678696498_Subythumbsup.thumb.jpg.2dc2a1b2e0d20a8f0b8e7672da892262.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

Wish I had seen this before buying a new LGT BPV line. Would have made install a lot easier.

 

Everyone get their hardware mounted back to the intake manifold...the frames and the three vacuum-related devices? I think I've gotten something mis-routed. Car starts and runs, but it's not as smooth as it was pre-install. Checked all the vacuum lines, everything seems to be connected 'properly', just not sure they're connected to the right locaiton...:eek:

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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  • 9 months later...

Okay, so I installed one of these in my new build. I missed the special LGT instructions to remove the grey PCV diagnosis connector. (Although I had mine replaced @ Infamous, so it's white... or is this not the correct one?)

 

Here's a pic of it:

 

20140515_194404.jpg

 

But doesn't the other side of this go here:

 

20140515_194442.jpg

 

So if that hose isn't going to be reused, what goes in to plug that hole on the turbo inlet?

2013 S4 - Glacier White - DSG - B&O - Tech Package - Sports Diff - Napa - RS4 Grille - Stasis Exhaust - APR Intake - KW Variant 1 - Stern Control Arms - CR-15 - Stasis RSB - Moog Endlinks - PC Hyper Black Peelers - Deval Front Lip - ECS Rear Diffuser - Carbon Imports Ducktail - ECS Mirror Caps - Relak Paddle Extensions - Autostyle Floor Mats - LED Interior - V1 - Blackvue DR900s -

 

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So if that hose isn't going to be reused, what goes in to plug that hole on the turbo inlet?

 

on my older version inlet, one of the nipples does indeed take a cap; one could assume from what's been posted that it's the same for the newer version, if that's what you're using.

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I have to say, this thread was essential to easing my mind on this install. It took me 4+ hours of fighting when I installed one on my 2002 WRX, so I was not excited to replace this in my Leggy.

 

I've had vac issues for a while and have replaced or checked everything else, and based on the gross oily crap accumulating on top of the visible hose by the turbo side, I (correctly!) guessed that this was torn/worn and leaking. Bunch of nice holes by the clamping area, and the hose there had the consistency and resiliency of a gummy bear. I guess heat and oil will do that after a while... the accordion section of mine was fine.

 

Like someone else said, it took about 30-40 minutes of real work and 2 hours of cursing the engineers who put hoses where they did. Really not as bad as I was expecting. This was the newer PSP-421 kit, and on my 2008 LGT required no hose splicing, and everything was pretty obvious where it went when looking at the new hose versus the old. BOV return hose was a pain, nothing else was too bad though.

 

Very happy with my turbo inlet, thank you LGT members for all the good advice!

 

Congrats! Like I posted above the WRX BOV hose is longer than the legacy and perrin moved the connection spot to accommodate the WRX.

If you get a WRX hose its really easy to connect....

 

Here is a picture of two after market BOV hoses. One for the legacy and one for the WRX. The longer one is for the WRX and is what is needed for the newer Perrin inlet install.

The Stock BOV hoses are the same way these are just silicon versions of the stock hose

photo.thumb.jpg.b3ad75c4115532442b467aa207eed05b.jpg

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I bought my Perrin inlet used and it's got a hole plugged with a 14mm bolt and thread sealant. I'll snap a picture at home tonight -

 

I don't know what model it is, but I bought it from an 06 B #320(?). It's got slight oil inside, which, to me says it's been ran for at least a little while. . .

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  • 9 months later...
Congrats! Like I posted above the WRX BOV hose is longer than the legacy and perrin moved the connection spot to accommodate the WRX.

If you get a WRX hose its really easy to connect....

 

Here is a picture of two after market BOV hoses. One for the legacy and one for the WRX. The longer one is for the WRX and is what is needed for the newer Perrin inlet install.

The Stock BOV hoses are the same way these are just silicon versions of the stock hose

 

Is the BPV hose only shorter on the 05-06 LGT's? I am trying to make sure I purchase a new BPV before the install to make it go smoothly. A 2009 WRX and 2008 LGT BPV part number is 14465AA100, the 05 Legacy gt part number is 14465AA070. infamous is selling the Venair hose (14465AA100), but they are unsure if it will work since they have heard the WRX hose is longer.

 

If thats the case, where can I purchase the SAMCO hoses?

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