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New breaks (stronger breaks)


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I recently took my leggy to the shop and they did a 20 pt check up. They said my brakes are weak. Since i'm planning on doing an engine swag, preferably a Subaru EJ20G Impreza WRX Turbo GC8 (7/93) (92-93), sti/wrx, what kind of brakes do you think i should grab?

Also it says i have an oil leak under engine, what should i buy and do to fix that?

Lastly, my left front tie rod is worn out, no idea what that is haha.

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Before anything else, I absolutely have to point out that you are talking about your brakes, not your breaks.

 

Anywho, from what I understand, a lot of people do an H6 rear brake swap, which you can read about here. Getting some new rotors and pairing them with some sport pads from tire rack will also do wonders for braking performance.

 

Saying you have "an oil leak under the engine" is a bit like saying that you have "a leak in the house." You are going to need to be a bit more specific (they should have been more specific when they explained it to you.) Is it an oil pan leak? Valve covers? Oil separator plate? Camshafts? All of the above? We can tell you exactly what to buy and how to fix it, but you need to tell us what part is leaking first.

 

Finally, the tie rod is what is used to steer your car's front wheels. If it is worn out, it leads to play in the wheel where it can wobble back and forth (your steering will feel loose, and it can mess with your alignment and tire wear.) I would think it is relatively straightforward to replace, as it is rather easy to access, but I've never done it myself because I've only ever replaced them when the car was getting inspected and it failed, and I just had them do it since it doesn't cost that much.

 

Hope that helps!

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Before anything else, I absolutely have to point out that you are talking about your brakes, not your breaks.

 

Anywho, from what I understand, a lot of people do an H6 rear brake swap, which you can read about here. Getting some new rotors and pairing them with some sport pads from tire rack will also do wonders for braking performance.

 

Saying you have "an oil leak under the engine" is a bit like saying that you have "a leak in the house." You are going to need to be a bit more specific (they should have been more specific when they explained it to you.) Is it an oil pan leak? Valve covers? Oil separator plate? Camshafts? All of the above? We can tell you exactly what to buy and how to fix it, but you need to tell us what part is leaking first.

 

Finally, the tie rod is what is used to steer your car's front wheels. If it is worn out, it leads to play in the wheel where it can wobble back and forth (your steering will feel loose, and it can mess with your alignment and tire wear.) I would think it is relatively straightforward to replace, as it is rather easy to access, but I've never done it myself because I've only ever replaced them when the car was getting inspected and it failed, and I just had them do it since it doesn't cost that much.

 

Hope that helps!

 

Sorry about the mispelling, didn't realize my stupidity.

 

Well, for the oil leak all they told me was there was an oil leak under my engine.

 

Maybe I can look under later today and try to see where the leak is.

 

And, for the tie rod, all of that stuff happens when i go over 60 so that should be changed. Thanks again!

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Before anything else, I absolutely have to point out that you are talking about your brakes, not your breaks.

 

Anywho, from what I understand, a lot of people do an H6 rear brake swap, which you can read about here. Getting some new rotors and pairing them with some sport pads from tire rack will also do wonders for braking performance.

 

Saying you have "an oil leak under the engine" is a bit like saying that you have "a leak in the house." You are going to need to be a bit more specific (they should have been more specific when they explained it to you.) Is it an oil pan leak? Valve covers? Oil separator plate? Camshafts? All of the above? We can tell you exactly what to buy and how to fix it, but you need to tell us what part is leaking first.

 

Finally, the tie rod is what is used to steer your car's front wheels. If it is worn out, it leads to play in the wheel where it can wobble back and forth (your steering will feel loose, and it can mess with your alignment and tire wear.) I would think it is relatively straightforward to replace, as it is rather easy to access, but I've never done it myself because I've only ever replaced them when the car was getting inspected and it failed, and I just had them do it since it doesn't cost that much.

 

Hope that helps!

 

Oh, and you're sure the H6 brakes will be strong enough for wrx or sti engine?

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Oh, and you're sure the H6 brakes will be strong enough for wrx or sti engine?

 

Honestly, unless you are racing your car, you don't really need anything better. You can always swap for WRX brakes but depending on your wheels I think you might need to upgrade to 16" or 17" rims for the calipers to clear the wheel. Putting sport pads on the car will raise the threshold at which you can do hard braking before the brakes overheat anyway.

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I don't know what this talk of stronger brakes is all about but the stock 2 piston calipers in the front are plenty sufficient for stopping power.

Just bleed the system, get heavy duty pads, stainless steel lines, & fresh rotors.

As for the rear calipers, for normal to sport driving, they are also good enough.

Unless you're into driving THAT hard (which you shouldn't because these cars' stock suspension/chassis make them understeer hard like its their way of life), your stock units are good enough & if they're wearing down, replace them with the same but fresher units.

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I don't know what this talk of stronger brakes is all about but the stock 2 piston calipers in the front are plenty sufficient for stopping power.

Just bleed the system, get heavy duty pads, stainless steel lines, & fresh rotors.

As for the rear calipers, for normal to sport driving, they are also good enough.

Unless you're into driving THAT hard (which you shouldn't because these cars' stock suspension/chassis make them understeer hard like its their way of life), your stock units are good enough & if they're wearing down, replace them with the same but fresher units.

 

A MCB will also do a lot to help the brake feel

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A MCB will also do a lot to help the brake feel

 

I don't know what this talk of stronger brakes is all about but the stock 2 piston calipers in the front are plenty sufficient for stopping power.

Just bleed the system, get heavy duty pads, stainless steel lines, & fresh rotors.

As for the rear calipers, for normal to sport driving, they are also good enough.

Unless you're into driving THAT hard (which you shouldn't because these cars' stock suspension/chassis make them understeer hard like its their way of life), your stock units are good enough & if they're wearing down, replace them with the same but fresher units.

 

Honestly, unless you are racing your car, you don't really need anything better. You can always swap for WRX brakes but depending on your wheels I think you might need to upgrade to 16" or 17" rims for the calipers to clear the wheel. Putting sport pads on the car will raise the threshold at which you can do hard braking before the brakes overheat anyway.

 

So by the look of it, the cost would be a bit cheaper if i just keep my stock brakes, and bleed the system, get heavy duty pads, stainless steel lines, & fresh rotors would be cheaper.

But in terms of stronger and longer lasting the WRX swap should be better right? My cars rims at 16" so that should be great.

So when i'm searching for the brakes i look for "wrx brakes and sports pads"?

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...(which you shouldn't because these cars' stock suspension/chassis make them understeer hard like its their way of life...

 

You know, my sedan with the 4EAT had a much more prominent tendency to understeer than my 5MT wagon does. It's so much more balanced and easier to toss around and rotate through a turn.

 

So by the look of it, the cost would be a bit cheaper if i just keep my stock brakes, and bleed the system, get heavy duty pads, stainless steel lines, & fresh rotors would be cheaper.

But in terms of stronger and longer lasting the WRX swap should be better right? My cars rims at 16" so that should be great.

So when i'm searching for the brakes i look for "wrx brakes and sports pads"?

 

Check these out:

 

http://www.igotasubaru.com/showthread.php?565-Power-Stop-Brake-kit-For-2nd-Gen-Legacys

 

I plan on buying a set once I need new pads.

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You know, my sedan with the 4EAT had a much more prominent tendency to understeer than my 5MT wagon does. It's so much more balanced and easier to toss around and rotate through a turn.

 

That's because the 4EATs are heavier than the 5 speeds are.

My car oversteers hardcore if I just enter a corner recklessly but if I apply some technique to it, I can get through a corner fine enough.

The stock suspension is a bit stiffer than that of the Ls but still not enough to push too hard.

If brakes are to be done, then the suspension upgrades should follow :)

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Well, speaking of my 96 GT sedan and my 98 GT wagon, the wagon has a more balanced weight distribution regardless. It is 100 lbs heavier than my sedan (I've weighed both of them on the landfill scale). And power is at a constant 50/50 in the wagon compared to the sedans variable distribution. Oh, and the wagon has much stiffer rear springs. Also, I don't think that the 4EAT itself is much heavier than the 5MT. I've lifted both..
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Comparing identical cars (lets say 96 GT with a 5MT) in wagon and sedan form, the sedan is much better balanced.

 

And yes, 4EAT is heavier then the 5MT

 

 

You know, my sedan with the 4EAT had a much more prominent tendency to understeer than my 5MT wagon does.

 

Thats because the 4EAT isn't in 50/50 mode constantly like the 5MT is

-broknindarkagain

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COME AND TAKE IT

"The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing."

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Comparing identical cars (lets say 96 GT with a 5MT) in wagon and sedan form, the sedan is much better balanced.

 

I will argue this to the death. The wagons are much better balanced. The sedan might have a stiffer chassis, but there's no way to argue the fact that a wagon has more weight in the rear. Therefor, it's weight is more evenly distributed.

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Balanced as a whole....meaning that its a better handling car because how everything on the car works together.

 

If you're talking weight distribution...you're right...but I'm talking about something completely different.

-broknindarkagain

My Current Project - Click Here

COME AND TAKE IT

"The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing."

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You know, my sedan with the 4EAT had a much more prominent tendency to understeer than my 5MT wagon does. It's so much more balanced and easier to toss around and rotate through a turn.

 

 

 

Check these out:

 

http://www.igotasubaru.com/showthread.php?565-Power-Stop-Brake-kit-For-2nd-Gen-Legacys

 

I plan on buying a set once I need new pads.[/quote

 

These seem good, but the question is,

Do you think that these breaks would be strong enough for a wrx engine?

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You keep asking if the brakes will be "strong enough for a WRX engine" but I don't really understand why you keep asking this. DO you plan on racing this car or something? If not, a WRX engine isn't going to make you work your brakes much harder on public roads... it's not like as soon as you install your WRX engine, you unlock a higher level of speed limits or something...
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