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Burning a lil coolant and low power on hills


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Title. I had a perfection tire do my headgaskets instead of taking it to a subaru specialist which I am regretting now. I was wondering how good of a job they did and i'm smelling coolant in the cabin now. It really only happens when the engine is working hard such as full acceleration and on tough grades. Is there anything to do to add a little life so I don't have to redo my headgaskets? Any additive to swell the gaskets? And is my low power on the hills a result of it burning coolant?
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First, check to see if you are actually consuming the coolant.

The smell of coolant in the cabin is very sketchy unless you have an exhaust leak.

Does your car overheat?

Is the coolant reservoir/radiator milky & bubbling?

Does the dipstick have a milky substance on it?

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haven't checked the dipstick. Didn't even know we had one for coolant ha. But yes, and I get a strong sweetish smell in the cabin on hills. Never overheats unless im low on coolant which happens from driving. Seems to go from full to low, but not much passed that. Could it be anything else? I've noticed some steam coming out of the lil cap on the left side of the radiator.
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The oil dipstick. Pull it to see if it is milky suggesting that there is coolant in the oil. Other than that, coolant smell in the cabin compartment could possibly be a heater core issue. Unlikely since you just had the hg's done but a possibility. And 2nd gens are just slow.
I'm a native of South Carolina. I am a dying breed.
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If it smells like coolant inside the car do you also have coolant on your floors? I just had a heater core go out on me 2 weeks ago. Windows fogged up one night and my car smelled like hot coolant. I knew right away what it was.

When you replaced the head gaskets did you use the updated OEM ones? Also did you have the heads machined? I did my friends GT 2 months ago and when I was cleaning up the surface of the block I noticed a low spot right by the cylinder and if I didn't have the block resurfaced as well it would've leaked and all of my work would've went to waste.

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I want to say about 40,000 miles ago. I have no clue what gaskets they used and if they machined the block. It was done at a perfection tire which in this area is kind of like a midas. Just a run of the mill tire and car repair place. Should have taken it to a specialist, but didn't know this was the big issue with these cars. Don't think its the heater core. Haven't replaced the radiator cap. Think I'll buy one here sometime this week, but also why am I seeing some vapor emitting from the small cap on the left side of the radiator? Is it because I had some water in the radiator that was boiling off?
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Probably the coolant overflow tank. The caps on those are pretty small...

 

If the compression is leaking past the HG it will overcome the radiator cap valve and vent it constantly it into your overflow tank.

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Unless the shop was familiar with the Subaru head gasket issues and which parts and procedures to follow they more than likely did it wrong. Using the new OEM head gaskets and having the proper machine work done is the only way to go. I've seen and read about guys running aftermarket crap gaskets like Fel Pro and they just don't last. They might work ok on other cars just not ours. Take your car to a Subaru specific shop and have them test for hydrocarbons in the coolant. Having them in the system is a for sure head gasket leak again.
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  • I Donated
Is there anything to do to add a little life so I don't have to redo my headgaskets? Any additive to swell the gaskets?

 

If it is your head gasket, you're pretty much screwed. Nothing you can do can buy you extra time.

 

Title. I had a perfection tire do my headgaskets

 

You paid a tire shop to do internal engine work?

 

I forgot to say that using any of that miracle in a bottle head gasket repair will only cause more damage in the end. It will clog up other parts in the cooling system and cost you more in the long run.

 

Couldn't agree more.

 

Want picture proof? Here is a EJ25D I recently did a head gasket & timing job on.

 

The first picture is the head gaskets. See how much "gunk" is built up on them. The head gasket should be about as thick as a coin...and its literally as thick as 10 quarters stacked together in this picture.

 

The second picture is of the water jackets around the pistons. Now just imagine that stuff building up in the more narrow coolant passages....

 

Get the point?

 

NOTE : this stuff has the consistency of fresh dog poop...

 

headgasket.jpg.f3b9015a65aa9fd0468f56142c940ee4.jpg

 

waterjacket.jpg.ee1ecafe5ebfb2b3398f4a702c08be04.jpg

-broknindarkagain

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1: As brok has shown above, aftermarket head gasket "repair" liquids cause more harm in the long run.

2: If it it the head gasket & your car is NOT overheating, now would be an excellent time to stop driving it since constant overheating combined with the coolant/oil mixture is what usually does our bearings in.

3: If it is the heater core (you should check), that stuff isn't good to breathe in at all (even worse if its hot & gaseous).

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2: If it it the head gasket & your car is NOT overheating, now would be an excellent time to stop driving it since constant overheating combined with the coolant/oil mixture is what usually does our bearings in..

 

Not to mention warping the heads and doing other lovely things to the all aluminum engine.

-broknindarkagain

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COME AND TAKE IT

"The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing."

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Yes STOP driving the car. You will only cause more damage. If you can't afford replacing the head gaskets then you surely can't afford replacing or rebuilding the entire engine. I'm just trying to give you advice that I myself would do on my own cars. Just make sure this time you have the heads checked and machined if nessesary as well as the block. Most people overlook the surface of the block. Being its aluminum and the OEM gaskets being a coated bi-metal, scrubbing occurs when things get hot and start shifting around. This will warp or create low spots in the surface of the block just as easy as the cylinder heads. GL.
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  • 1 month later...
JW as i have near 200,000 miles and I don't know if it is worth it, how much is it to have our engines rebuilt? It would need head gaskets and since it is burning a little oil too definitely piston rings too. Don't know what exactly goes into a full rebuild but Im guessing boring out the block a little too and putting new pistons and rings as well. Jw the cost to see if it is worth it or I should just let her go. Live and die. Thats the cycle of life
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Rebuilding a Subaru engine is not something every machine shop can do right. I recently rebuilt a complete EJ25, everything was new besides the rods and crank and it cost me about $750. I did all of the work myself besides the honing and decking.

 

The alternative that most people take is dropping in an EJ22 out of a junkyard. These can be had for $250 and take a day to do the swap.

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Well if you do have the engine rebuilt make sure the machine shop you take the engine to has the torque plate for the block. This is nessesary for the boring process of the block so the cylinders are machined straight. Best option would be to find a machine shop that does Subaru engines or one that has the plate. It there's not a shop near you, you can buy the TQ plate at AMS performance.
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Well if you do have the engine rebuilt make sure the machine shop you take the engine to has the torque plate for the block. This is nessesary for the boring process of the block so the cylinders are machined straight. Best option would be to find a machine shop that does Subaru engines or one that has the plate. It there's not a shop near you, you can buy the TQ plate at AMS performance.

 

+1 This is true for any aluminum block

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