rear windshield wiper fluid sprayer has a mind of its own

[LONO100]

Hey fellas, the hatch lock mechanism on my 97 wagon wasn't working right since I bought the car a few months ago. It wouldn't properly open or close and sometimes it would just lock shut. I took apart the mechanism and it was severly corroded from water damage. Well with a wire brush and some elbow grease I got it all sorted out and greased up so next I wanted to figure out where the water was coming from and I then I found that while driving the rear windshield washer sporatically dribbles water all over the back of the hatch, the water will then run down and straight for the hatch lock mechanism.

had anyone else had this problem? Is this common? I checked the wiring that pumps from the fluid reservoir and it was corroded and gunked to hell so I got that all cleaned up and I'm hoping that resolves the problem. Anyone with any info or opinions would be really appreciated. Thanks.

[Stang70Fastback]

Well the latch issue is actually a common issue on these cars, regardless of whether or not your rear washer sprayer is actively trying to kill it, so I doubt the two are really related.

[LONO100]

when I first started trying to repair the latch, I could see water stains that went from the washer nozzle all the way to the latch. I'm pretty sure in this case its the washer nozzle leakage that is causing the rusting of the latch. With that said, I googled ip a few past threads on this and there was a few solutions, including slipping in a check valve made by Nissan to keep it from dribbling. The valve cost about 7 bucks from Nissan, and I'm planning on getting it sorted this week. I'll report back the results.

[Sludgeroo]

Are you referring to the handle or the keyhole? Water usually doesn't travel sideways and never travels upwards in relation to the ground. Those rear latch mechanisms are just kinda shit metal, and rust to easily. Also, the bar that that handle is attached to that actually opens and pops the hatch is "timed" so to speak. There is a fine line of where the bar can be adjusted (via threading) that will make it open/stay closed. The best resolution would be a new latch handle. Try to get the whole ass'y including the license plate lights if you can.

[Sludgeroo]

The check valve may work, but I highly doubt that little bit of water based solution would make that rot.

 

I live in Buffalo, NY and my car has been here its entire 14 years. Still works. And they salt BEFORE it snows here.

[johnegg]

including slipping in a check valve made by Nissan to keep it from dribbling. The valve cost about 7 bucks from Nissan, and I'm planning on getting it sorted this week. I'll report back the results.

 

this is the cause and the solution. but you do not need to buy the part from subaru or nissan. you can get one at the auto parts store and add it at almost any convenient place. i would try right at the wiper motor first. that is as easy to get to as any other location.

 

but i have never done it.

[LONO100]

thanks for the response guys.

 

slug - the leak doesnt run to the handle ot the keyhole, it runs straight down from the nozzle and collects in a pool where the hook and the lock meet on the thresh hold. the water that comes out is a lot, and its constant. ill take some pics and post them so you can get a better idea of what im talking about.

 

john - i was thinking of splicing in a valve on the plastic hosing found in the tailgate right before the nozzle. do you think that would be a good location? and what would be the exact name of the type of valve i should be looking for?

 

thanks guys.

[johnegg]

that is where i would put it.

 

ask for a ''check valve'' for your rear washer wiper hose. i think all wagons / suvs have one of some kind.

[LONO100]

Thanks, will do. Ill do a write up with picks for future reference.