TehRicer Posted October 3, 2012 Share Posted October 3, 2012 Edit1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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TehRicer Posted October 3, 2012 Author Share Posted October 3, 2012 Saved for 20 more pics! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TehRicer Posted October 3, 2012 Author Share Posted October 3, 2012 Saved. OEM kick panels are to be vacuumed formed. OEM kicks will be saved, & duplicate kicks will be used to house a set of Dayton ND140's up front. Dead pedal will be retained. Wire(s) inside kicks were relocated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cipher_nemo Posted October 3, 2012 Share Posted October 3, 2012 Wow, that's a butt-load of work! Very cool to see the modding. Subscribed! Love to see the entire carpeting ripped up and cleaned (lots of drink spills/dribbles). Question: are you running RCAs along with your power cable? I see them on the other side of the car, but I see what looks like thick RCAs along the power as well?? I hope those are other power cables because that would be a lot of added noise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TehRicer Posted October 3, 2012 Author Share Posted October 3, 2012 Wow, that's a butt-load of work! Very cool to see the modding. Subscribed! Love to see the entire carpeting ripped up and cleaned (lots of drink spills/dribbles). Question: are you running RCAs along with your power cable? I see them on the other side of the car, but I see what looks like thick RCAs along the power as well?? I hope those are other power cables because that would be a lot of added noise. The blue wires running alongside my Power cable run to my kicks + pillars. -Mid + Tweet. I'm shopping for RCA cables right now. I have plugs, so I think I'll pick up some canare star. No noise, I'm running straight balanced:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbl_D718 Posted October 3, 2012 Share Posted October 3, 2012 Wow, that's a butt-load of work! Very cool to see the modding. Subscribed! Love to see the entire carpeting ripped up and cleaned (lots of drink spills/dribbles). Question: are you running RCAs along with your power cable? I see them on the other side of the car, but I see what looks like thick RCAs along the power as well?? I hope those are other power cables because that would be a lot of added noise. That's just a myth. I have my signal cables right next to my power cable. No noise. MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cipher_nemo Posted October 4, 2012 Share Posted October 4, 2012 That's just a myth. I have my signal cables right next to my power cable. No noise. I disagree. I've heard it happen in cars I've owned in the past. But then again, it varies in every car, how much noise the alternator is letting leak into the power system, how well grounded the electrical system is, etc., etc. So yeah, you're right, it doesn't add audible noise or distortion to every system. But fortunately the OP is running RCAs on the other side and his speaker wire was just the same color. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AkumaMax Posted October 4, 2012 Share Posted October 4, 2012 There is a simple way to make sure there is no noise no matter where you put the wire. Get a Heavy Magnet clip.and put it on closest to the radio and there should be no feedback from anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cipher_nemo Posted October 4, 2012 Share Posted October 4, 2012 There is a simple way to make sure there is no noise no matter where you put the wire. Get a Heavy Magnet clip.and put it on closest to the radio and there should be no feedback from anything. I assume you mean a ferrite core? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TehRicer Posted October 18, 2012 Author Share Posted October 18, 2012 Edit6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
end0 Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 Question: I know nothing about sound deadening, but why do you do small patches like that? My girlfriends car has some aftermarket sound deadening in it, but I've only seen some in the truck and it's done in bigger sheet(s). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cipher_nemo Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 Question: I know nothing about sound deadening, but why do you do small patches like that? My girlfriends car has some aftermarket sound deadening in it, but I've only seen some in the truck and it's done in bigger sheet(s). Yeah, I think it's sort of silly. But more power to the OP if he enjoys doing it. Overall, I sort of chuckle when I see it applied to pieces of metal that have lots of bends and curves. The only time you really need to dampen metal is when it covers a large, flat area without much reinforcement (ie: trunk lid, roof, floorboards, doors). When metal is bolted to other pieces, its weight is increased and susceptibility to vibrations is reduced. After all, the real reason for dynamat-like material is to add weight to metal so that you increase its resonance threshold. Some people go overboard with it. Others don't apply enough, and not in the right spots. In the end, how the OP applied it will help insulate and stop road noise a little, but doesn't do much to stop vibrations from a subs and speakers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TehRicer Posted October 19, 2012 Author Share Posted October 19, 2012 Well I think Cipher's high. I kind of wish I could thank my own post here. CLD tiles don't do anything for blocking road noise. (Subaru did a decent job w/ applying acoustic treatments up front, therefore I passed on the CCF/MLV. I may pick up some lux pro though) Lmfao, CLD tiles do everything for stoping vibrations (resonance) from "a subs" and speakers. Lol, that's the whole purpose. Cipher, did your g/f type that last portion? Yeah, go ahead & apply bigger sheets of deadener down. Heck, just get one big sheet to cover the whole area. **** yea Using an RTA, I've experimented applying deadener more than one way. In theory, dispersing the deadener as much as possible over the whole designated area should yield the best results eh. Well it does lol. Note: dispersing. -That's not in terms of quantity ^ was the goal. The intricate pieces may look silly & a waste of time, but there's reason to it. I have moderate OCD, therefore I strive for perfection. Those pieces were cut to conform as perfectly (flat) as possible ... it was about coverage & keeping it proportional. -Key word dog BTW, if you ever get a chance, take a look at an IASCA/equivalent vehicle. Deadener is layered & everywhere:P That 25% coverage shiit gets tossed out the window muahahah Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TehRicer Posted October 19, 2012 Author Share Posted October 19, 2012 Edit7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbl_D718 Posted October 19, 2012 Share Posted October 19, 2012 After all, the real reason for dynamat-like material is to add weight to metal so that you increase its resonance threshold. Mass loading isn't a very effective sound deadening strategy. Most nice sound deadener these days are not asphalt-based mass loaders, they're butyl-based and absorb the vibrations. Read HERE. MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TehRicer Posted October 19, 2012 Author Share Posted October 19, 2012 Went to Mankatoooo today. Picked up some non hardening model clay!!!!!!!!!!!! TO da shop! Hey there dbl:P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbl_D718 Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 I'm jealous of your build. It's looking nice! Curious why you went with 5.25" mids instead of 6.5"? Or are you going 3-way up front with bigger midbass drivers? I like lots of midbass from my front stage. MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TehRicer Posted October 20, 2012 Author Share Posted October 20, 2012 I'm jealous of your build. It's looking nice! Curious why you went with 5.25" mids instead of 6.5"? Or are you going 3-way up front with bigger midbass drivers? I like lots of midbass from my front stage. To be completely honest, it's a bit of an experiment. New cone material. Kick install vs door. On vs off axis I'm curious on the results. You're completely right. I am extremely hesitant below 80hz. Space is limited. I'm worried the mids won't be able to breathe I'm guna have to get creative, & on top of this, I won't be losing my dead pedal. I have a pretty good idea as far as a baffle/pod goes. As long as I can get my pods to properly vent into the slot w/out choking the air passage, I'll be good to go. From there, the A frames are decent in terms of volume We'll see how these compared to my HAT's:) I have the 4" version in my room, & I am extremelyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy impressed. Working on a t-line:P Many people use these drivers as replacement subs. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3aUB0URk1W8]Dayton Audio ND105-4 - YouTube[/ame] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cipher_nemo Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 Looking good so far. Thanks for the vid of those drivers. Mass loading isn't a very effective sound deadening strategy. Most nice sound deadener these days are not asphalt-based mass loaders, they're butyl-based and absorb the vibrations. Read HERE. LOL, you linked to marketing from Second Skin. The same company, along with Dynamat, who are both trying to make money off you for these overpriced materials. No thanks. Look elsewhere for advice, like http://www.quietrock.com/educational-resources/understanding-sound-and-noise.html And FYI, the process of adding weight is not called "mass loading" (which is mass, not weight), it's called decreasing the resonance. The goal is to add weight, or some times even reduce weight, to stop vibrations. Some good explanation: http://www.reliableplant.com/Read/22455/identify-resonance-condition-vibration If your body panels don't make an audible noise when they vibrate from your subs and other speakers, you don't need to add anything. If they vibrate and make noise, then you should do something. Either change the resonance (ie: adding weight to the material) or dampen the sound waves. The latter is what a lot of shops and pros would do with Dynamat, Second Skin, FatMat, etc. And to do that effectively you need to lay it down in large sections. Little pieces don't help, as they'll only add weight but not dampen sound waves. It's sad to see some of you brainwashed by companies like Dynamat. Stop drinking their Kool-aid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TehRicer Posted October 20, 2012 Author Share Posted October 20, 2012 Well I don't want to be a dick here but, "Some people go overboard with it. Others don't apply enough, and not in the right spots. In the end, how the OP applied it will help insulate and stop road noise a little, but doesn't do much to stop vibrations from a subs and speakers." I think you're brain washed. Go back & edit your post, so people don't think that deadening reduces road noise. ...& so people don't think it doesn't reduce resonance Exactly. How do you know if they make an audible noise or not? Can you hear from a picture? Think not. Those little pieces helped. I'm the only one that can tell. Needless to say, my kicks don't sound like "tin" anymore when I tap them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TehRicer Posted October 20, 2012 Author Share Posted October 20, 2012 Edit: Fatmat sucks lol don't, never buy it. Anyone! Stinger road kill is by far the best bang for your buck period. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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