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gt06unlimited

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About gt06unlimited

  • Birthday 01/19/1988

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  • Location
    Walpole, MA
  • Car
    06 Legacy GT
  • Occupation
    Technician for American Honda.

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  1. So I put in the new 02 sensor this evening at work and it seems to have sortof resolved the issue. The CEL went away on its own after driving around for a little while but the TPS sensor still wont read anything less than 14% and nothing more than 78%. Yes I did check to make sure my floormat wasnt stuck under the pedal . I cleaned the contacts and that helped how the car runs at idle but I'm leaning toward a bad TPS which would not be cool... Upside is the car now runs and drives. Also now that I'm thinking about it, theres a ground strap that *used* to run from the heatshield on the manifold to the framerail on the passenger side. It is broken... So I'm gonna replace that too and see if I get lucky. Fingers crossed!
  2. Yup, front 02 sensor was stuck reading .957 volts. Dumping fuel like a mofo. New sensor car is all better
  3. So cleaning the electrical contacts did nothing, but unplugging the front 02 sensor made a huge difference in drivability and gas mileage. Car is still running in open loop for the time being until I install the new sensor but once I get it and do the drive cycles i will repost and let everyone know what the deal is
  4. I have a very similar problem, but with the manual trans it jut stalls at red lights. Inconvenient to say the least. I threw a CEL though anf got three codes: the dreaded P0420 code, a system too rich code and a mass air flow code. I had unplugged and cleaned the contacts on thr mass air flow and that seemed to reseolve the problem temporarily. However it started acting up again today so i put a scanner on it and the throttle position was stuck at 14% no matter how I drove. Cycled the key off and then on, and the scanner picked up a reading of 14% at idle and 78% at WOT. Going to try the cleaning of the contacts on the pedal sensor and the TPS on the throttle body and report back...
  5. hi everyone, i think i have found a solution to the sticky drivers window switch we all seem to be plagued with. I wish i took pictures, but this was kindof on a whim while i waited for parts to arrive at work and it just happened to solve the issue, so ill do the best i can to explain what i did: step 1: Remove the door panel. there is a screw behind the little plastc panel in the interior door handle. it will pull out with a small 90 degree picktool. there are also two screws behind the grip handle. this can be removed with a plastic trim tool or a flat tip scredriver wrapped in electrical tape. from the top, pry outwards and the trim piece will pull out. remove the trim that covers the mirror mount and the top right corner of the panel. there are 8 of those plastic clip type fasteners around the outside of the door panel and 1 in the middle near the grip. just pull outwards from behind the panel and they will pop out. *the make noise and it sounds bad, but its not haha* Step 2: once the panel is loose, unplug the master window switch connector and the puddle light, but DO NOT disconnect the handle rods. they are a pain to get back in and its not necessary. the switch assembly comes out with four philips head screws. remove it and rest the panel back on the door. Step 3: there are four plastic tabs holding the two black plastic halves of the switch together. gently pry them back and remove the outer trim. this will expose the switch covers. Step 4: this is the really really important part: using the 90 degree picktool gently pry the sides of the plastic switch off its pivots. THIS SWITCH COVER IS SPRING LOADED SO BE AWARE THAT IT WILL FLY OFF IF YOURE NOT CAREFUL AND PIECES WILL GO MISSING. once the switch cover is off, you will see a valley where it used to sit, a white plastic rod and a spring that goes inside the switch cover. this spring and rod assembly is whats respomsible for returning the switch to its neutral position. there is an upside down "U" shaped tip to the end of the switch cover. if you look inside the switch assembly, you will see another white rod that fits in the U. that is the actual switch, and it must fit back inside that U when you reassemble the switch. My particular switch had no grease in it whatsoever, so i cleaned out the switch cover and white plastic rod with a mild soap and water solution and dried it off. apply some white lithuim grease to the rod and the inside of the switch cover. also grease the valley where the rod will sit when everything is reassembled. Step 5: install the spring in the switch cover followed by the white rod and reinstall into the switch assembly. from there, make sure the switch no longer sticks before reinstalling it in the door panel. if it does not, it may be necessary to bore out the switch cover with some 1000 grit sandpaper (or similar) so the rod can move more freely in the switch cover. good luck, any questions feel free to ask.
  6. ok, so as long as i use the resistor for the up pipe sensor, i can leave the downpipe sensor the way it is without hurting anything? all ill have to do is reflash the ecu and my CEL will go away? just wanna be absolutely clear on this is all thanks for your patience.
  7. LAGT, can this same process be applied to all the sensors in the exhaust stream provided i know the resistance of each sensor? Only asking because im planning on completing my exhaust with catless up and dp in the next couple weeks and losin all the egt/o2 sensors. Thanks!
  8. no more then 3,000 mile oil changes. this is because of the turbo. the oil is exposed to exhaust gasses more in the turbo then it is in the engine, so it will absorb more carbon deposits and fill up with gunk quicker. synthetic oil doesnt sludge like conventional oil, and carbon is a very hard material that can do lots of damage if its not cleaned out frequently. remember that most turbos will have a peak rpm of between 80,000 and 200,000, so good clean oil is essential http://www.topspeed.com/cars/automotive-glossary/turbochargershow-to-spin-your-way-in-first-place-ar14271.html good info here =) just a little bit of extra, the part of the SAE stamp that reads "SL" means that there is no zinc in the oil. modern engines dont require this additive; its mostly there for older engines that need a little extra cushion between moving parts. royal purple oil is still rated SM, which means it still has zinc. zinc is "sticky" so to speak, so it will keep the oil in place overnight and reduce damage from dry starts. thinner oil drips to the sump more freely after engine shutdown, leaving the top end starved of oil for a second or two when the engine is started until oil pressure is built up. lots of VERY good info in this thread, bookmark it, i did.
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