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caramall2

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    05 LGT Wag lim, slv, MT, AVO380, Zeal

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  1. Just installed a Competition clutch, stage 2 with lightweight flywheel. I really like the feel and seems to be doing fine, but only time will tell. Only 100 mi so far so it's not even broken in. Had a Clutchmaster FX350 before w WRX fly and really liked it but wore out way too early.
  2. You have to have a fairly aggressive pad to get rid of the deposits doing it that way. Stock pads (if that's what you used) won't cut it. I've had both DBA 5000 2-piece and DBA 4000. They're nice (esp 5000), but a decent blank with aggressive street pads works well. The pad is where it's at (IMHO) to avoid deposits. Sounds like a nice set up--what model stoptech pads did you get? I just looked back and see you said they were stoptech street...will have to check out specs.
  3. You have to have a fairly aggressive pad to get rid of the deposits doing it that way. Stock pads (if that's what you used) won't cut it. I've had both DBA 5000 2-piece and DBA 4000. They're nice (esp 5000), but a decent blank with aggressive street pads works well. The pad is where it's at (IMHO) to avoid deposits. Sounds like a nice set up--what model stoptech pads did you get?
  4. Many folks use rotors like Centric blanks on the track with good pads with no issues. I have a set on my fronts now. I used an nice set of ceramic pads and soon had deposits (I brake pretty aggressively at times though on back road twisties). Sanded a little, threw in Bobcat pads, bedded in, and no deposits :-) For street use, even very aggressive street use, I think folks are fine with plain old blanks like Centric and a good higher friction/temp pad like Bobcats. On the track I've used DBA 5000 two-piece rotors which certainly are nice, but unless you're hard core, plain old blanks and good pads (I use XP12 at the track) should be fine for performance driving events. Certainly blanks and something like Bobcats are fine for the street. As far as calipers, I have Wilwoods which is a nice, but reasonably priced upgrade. Still not a necessity or anything for the street (I tracked with stock calipers too).
  5. I'll let more knowledgeable folks chime in but I would both a) check knock and, b) check AFRs under full throttle with a wideband sensor. This should help confirm if there are fuel delivery issues in that state.
  6. I just read this entire thread. Great info as others have said and glad it's driving well! Have thought about doing a rebuild myself but awful lot of time and possible issues :-0 More power to you and if I do, I'm keeping your notes handy! Max -- Wish someone had torn down your engine to see what was actually wrong. How much oil were you putting in per mileage? -- Did you do a leak down test on it before you took it out? Curious what results were if you did. (Sorry if I missed it.) Mike -- Have you seen a crack ringland that still gives good compression numbers? I've heard of this happing as the upper ring can hold pressure even if lower ringland cracked (?). -- Isn't a leak down test just as important? You can also listen to hear where the leak is coming from to better tell if valves (intake or exhaust), piston rings, etc), right? Also, sometimes compression numbers are ok but leak down not, right? -- If a tune isn't knocking, is it at least safe? (E.g. when everyone talks about unsafe tunes, is the issue almost always that it's knocking?) I know LittleBlue has his good sticky on monitoring knock sum, etc., to check. All that said, it seems best to: - check situation if losing oil, etc. -- check knock (see LittleBlue's sticky in tuning forum), -- get both a compression AND leak down test -- check injectors (you could have decent AFR but one injector be off possibly, right? You should probably see knock though, correct?) - rebuild -- Go with forged pistons -- Get a good tune and make sure to look for knock (I'd always do that even if someone tuned for me...just to be safe ;-)
  7. Interesting that the square edges contribute...wouldn't have thought of that.
  8. I actually got them to be reasonably quiet in stock calipers on the road...drove pretty aggressively though. I was surprised I could do that...loved having that aggressive of a pad at my beckoned call. I have as quiet of a pad as about possible (ceramic) in the Wilwoods now and they still squeal a little. I'm talking fronts of course, not rear. Now that I'm doing many track days, I'd almost go back to stock with Bobcat pads, but don't want to swap out calipers again ;-)
  9. One small note. I may be an exception, but with the lighter calipers and added bracket (perhaps slightly less rigidity) came more brake squeal. On my stock calipers I could run XP8 on the street with little to no squeal. With this setup, I struggle to eliminate squeal with even mellow ceramic pads. Just saying you might experience more squeal if that's an issue for you. Maybe I'm the exception. I do like the wilwoods and ability to swap out pads easily, but I can often sound like a fed ex truck with anything like Bobcats, etc, in. (I'm talking front calipers on all this, not rear.)
  10. I read through some of the sticky but... Does the stock BPV operate on the same principle as say the Perrin or Turbosmart BOV? Why I ask is my Perrin BOV was having some issues and I swapped out for the stock. The stock seemed to work fine. Could there be an issue with the hose that connects that would affect the Perrin but not the stock? Is the only reason the stock starts to leak/fail is because of the materials being plastic and the "disk" simply not holding the pressure (e.g. it's not because of the spring...the turbo pressure itself should hold the disk shut, right?) Thanks.
  11. Not sure about all this but... I think there is only one Primary Fuel table that both CL and OL use...the CL tables are just basically telling the ECU when to utilize the O2 sensor to monitor and when to abandon it and go solely on MAF, and things like that (correct?). In closed loop, I assume (though could be wrong) that ECU checks MAF, fuels according to that and the fuel table, while monitoring AFR via O2 sensor and tweaking based on the sensor reading (fuel trims). (Maybe it goes solely off of O2 sensor for fueling, but I'm guessing it's MAF, tweaked with O2 readings.) In OL, the ECU goes off MAF only...it says "hey, the O2 sensor isn't probably accurate at this point, there's X amount of air coming in according to MAF so I need Y amount of fuel". If the MAF calibration is off, you could be dangerously lean and have knock issues, etc., as there's no O2 sensor monitoring things (there is knock control of course, but not cool to rely solely on that). This is why you use a wide band O2 sensor to check the AFRs to see if they're where they should be. If they're not, either the MAF calibration is off, the injector scalar is off, the injectors/pump have issues, or there are intake leaks (more air is getting in than MAF sees...this would probably have to be larger leaks), etc. Ok, I'll let the people who know what they're talking about chime in. I don't have time right now to read all the saved info I have somewhere on my computer... P.S. Cobb and others (including some posts on this forum I believe) on how to calibrate MAF, etc. I'd read all those.
  12. This may have been mentioned, but the old Cobb article on knock monitoring had some good info and clarification IMHO. It just adds to the good info here on this thread. Sorry if someone already posted it. https://static.cobbtuning.com/cobbtuningweb/site/support/techdocs/Subaru%20Knock%20Monitoring%20FAQ%20v2.pdf
  13. My 2 cents. I'm pretty busy with family life. Had a header that cracked at collector. Decided to just say forget it, I can live without the 10 or 15 HP gain. I instead had my exhaust manifold ported, polished, and coated my Grimmspeed, added their xpipe and uppipe, and don't really have to worry about cracks (possible but very unlikely). I figured I may have gained 5 of the 15 HP that headers might give me, with none of the worries. (P.S. The headers were megan, but in fairness, they went through some extreme cycles of heating and cooling when I was tuning in Canada in -10 deg F weather :-0 )
  14. Haven't messed with ST for a long time so forgettting. I have one of the old original Cobb Access Tuners. - Is the original ST (2005) the same as the TunerRace (I think around 2009) or are the maps not compatible? I had the "exe" program from TunerRace, and the disk for the originaly Street Tuner. Or to say it another way, should I run ST or TunerRace on my new laptop with old AP and old style files?
  15. Yes, you need to bed them in. This transfers a thin layer to the rotor (whether a new rotor or an old one). See sites like carbotech to get bed in procedures (that's what I use) and for more tech details on why you bed in see: http://www.centricparts.com/files/Centric%20White%20Paper%20C2-Bed-In%20Theory.pdf
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