Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

WahooNo2

Members
  • Posts

    287
  • Joined

Personal Information

  • Location
    Erie, PA
  • Car
    2005 Legacy GT Wgn (MT)
  • Interests
    Computers, programming, Subarus!
  • Occupation
    Database Administrator

WahooNo2's Achievements

Community Regular

Community Regular (8/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges

0

Reputation

  1. I usually get them from advance auto using online ordering and instore pickup with a coupon code.
  2. If the cap leaked for some reason I had a stant cap do that on my gt, it could have overflowed the overflow tank. It could also be the weep hole on the water pump, my pump was dumping lots of coolant in the summer from there, eventually like a quart per trip. I don't know what year subaru switched to timing chains but if you have a belt still when you do the belt, do the water pump too, the thermostat, and front oil seal. And don't reuse the water pump bolts... they may snap when you torque them.
  3. I just replaced my seal a few weeks ago it was really smooshed and brittle. If you are planning to do a coolant change in the near future do it then, it is easier than if you are doing just the oil and filter because of clearances. Also get a set of small picks or maybe a piece of steel wire would work to get the old one out.
  4. + 1... they have to replace that anyway when you get a new windshield.... Also a new windshield is 355 for 2005 legacy gt with heater from them out of pocket
  5. Over the summer my water pump was leaking from the weep hole on my Legacy GT *the waterpump was not an oem but one i had replaced when i did my timing belt with a gates kit* and then one day my car started to overheat. I had a new thermostat from the newer kit i had gotten so i bit the bullet and replaced it. When i pulled the old one out it was completely stuck closed and seized. if you want to check and see and don't want to waste money on new coolant you could refill with water to verify that it is that... just don't leave it like that because winter and just water will mean a new engine block. Oh and buy either an OEM thermostat or some sort of japan made one eg Aisin.
  6. You don't need to unbolt engine mounts. Wait till car is cool before beginning because things will be hot. Undo cables from battery, remove battery, place to side Undo maf cable on air box, undo screw clamps from air box to turbo inlet. Remove air box. Loosen coil on plug packs with socket and unclip the cable on the pack, don't squeeze the clip too hard, because it will break. For the ones closest to the firewall, pullout slightly, rotate 180 degrees and the pack should come out easier. After all coil packs are out, shoot air into the holes to remove dirt or dust in the holes. Get a 3inch extension and place on a sparkplug socket then use a combination of universals and extensions to break loose the plugs and remove them. I like to label each plug with a marker to look at them later to compare if any look worse than others for oil consumption or wear. After plugs are out you can do a compression or leak down test or just put new ones in. Next put a thin coating of anti seize on plug threads and make sure you don't cross thread the plugs and don't over tighten them. *follow instructions on box* Install coil packs back making sure the boots go on the plugs, reinsert electrical clips. Reinstall airbox and battery and start car, verify that you have a normal idle and it is running correctly if not check your coil pack and connections.
  7. +1 for spark plugs and loose heat shields With torque are you seeing high >10% short and long term fuel trims *that would be indicative of it needing to add more fuel because you are running lean* and may have a leak somewhere. Check the hose to the throttle body to the intercooler clamps and hose itself. The end that goes to the intercooler on mine started to fall apart around 135k and I replaced it with a silicone one. Have you checked the vacuum line that goes from the fuel pressure regulator to the intake manifold to see if it is loose? If not do that. Mine was loose before and was doing weird stuff but i was just on stage 1 at that time. I cut the line about an inch from the end and reattached it and it seemed to help. Check other vacuum lines too like the bypass/blow off valve one and brake booster. Finally have you replaced your in tank fuel filter or pump? It is supposed to be a lifetime filter but at over 150k on the pump and filter and you not being stock it may be having a heart attack with being plugged or struggling. You can also see if it is really a fuel pressure/flow issue if you check with a pressure gauge.
  8. +1 for clutch fluid. Mine was leaking from the rubber hose a few weeks ago. I replaced it with a braided stainless steel one I had in my parts bin and replaced the slave cylinder. After bleeding it works great, but now I realize that I need to replace my clutch again because of the engagement point.
  9. Love my fumoto drain valves. i have them on my 05 wagon and my wife's 04 outback for over 6 years now. Mine have the long nipples since they didnt have the shorter nipples when i got mine.
  10. My dealership covered mine with a "warranty deductible" but that was last year. They needed to drop the gas tank to run the new lines. I wish they would make a package that would just give you stainless lines , both hard and braided flex lines from the factory... and just charge another 500 to 1500 for it. This way customers would not be losing their brakes at years 12 and up.
  11. Ya I agree with you there. I wish that they made the lines from stainless steel from the factory or there was a company that made a kit for our cars of pre bent stainless steel aftermarket ones eg: http://ssbrakes.com/c-1097793-categories-brake-lines-hard-brake-lines.html You can buy or make your own from strait lines too, if you wanted to. I think that somewhere in the basement of the car companies there is someone doing statistical anaylsis that says in 99.9% regular brake lines are fIne.... aka 1 in 1000 cars will have an issue with lines the rest will be fine and the extra 100 dollars in materials and labor is not needed because we want the car to cost x dollars in margin on a car that will be z dollars for the consumer. They also do cost benefit analysis that uses the average length of time someone keeps a new car that hasn't been removed from the road due to accidents, wear and tear, etc is around 6 to 15 years. So the car doesnt get ss lines from the factory that will last 30-40 years or more, you dont get 4 pot brakes beacuse 2 pots still stop you almost the same, you dont get stainess exhaust systems except for the cat piping because of regulations on lifetime *some newer cars do have stainless now* because of a bean counter that just cares about margins and tenths of a perecentage points of failures and they know you will probably be back next time. If you dont have a leak yet but still have a bit of rust and really like the car and are concerned replace the lines eventually. The part that broke on mine required the gas tank to drop. Before I drive I usually push hard on the brakes to make sure I still have brakes and that was when my line broke which was good that it didnt cause an accident but bad becuase I was at work leaving, and still had to get home.
  12. Ya I agree with you there. I wish that they made the lines from stainless steel from the factory or there was a company that made a kit for our cars of pre bent stainless steel aftermarket ones eg: http://ssbrakes.com/c-1097793-categories-brake-lines-hard-brake-lines.html You can buy or make your own from strait lines too, if you wanted to. I think that somewhere in the basement of the car companies there is someone doing statistical anaylsis that says in 99.9% regular brake lines are fIne.... aka 1 in 1000 cars will have an issue with lines the rest will be fine and the extra 100 dollars in materials and labor is not needed because we want the car to cost x dollars in margin on a car that will be z dollars for the consumer. They also do cost benefit analysis that uses the average length of time someone keeps a new car that hasn't been removed from the road due to accidents, wear and tear, etc is around 6 to 15 years. So the car doesnt get ss lines from the factory that will last 30-40 years or more, you dont get 4 pot brakes beacuse 2 pots still stop you almost the same, you dont get stainess exhaust systems except for the cat piping because of regulations on lifetime *some newer cars do have stainless now* because of a bean counter that just cares about margins and tenths of a perecentage points of failures and they know you will probably be back next time. If you dont have a leak yet but still have a bit of rust and really like the car and are concerned replace the lines eventually. The part that broke on mine required the gas tank to drop. Before I drive I usually push hard on the brakes to make sure I still have brakes and that was when my line broke which was good that it didnt cause an accident but bad becuase I was at work leaving, and still had to get home.
  13. The why is pretty easy, its where the lines break. They didnt rust proof the joint and then the fix for it is them spraying rust proofing wax... which is garbage unless it was surface rust. It doesnt fail in the front because if you trace the lines in the front they are all protected from the abs block until they pop out near the wheel... from there it is flexible lines which wont likely break unless they are cut, abraded or rotted out in some manner.
  14. i had to take it out from the hub when i did the wheel bearings spray the bolt with penatrant and replace it with a new 10mm bolt from auto part or hardware store. You can get the sensor out with a screw driver... just go slow so you dont break the plastic. I actually will need to do this again soon because i snapped a wheel stud and i need to repress the stud or replace the bearing
  15. first two amazons have bad reviewes, 3rd has no reviews first ebay seems safest. last ebay may be ok but you will need a retune and it comes from taiwan not sure about other ebays. Someone is going probably post something about not buying ebay and amazon turbos soon.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use