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rkl303

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About rkl303

  • Birthday 12/27/1982

Personal Information

  • Location
    Denver, CO
  • Car
    08 OBP STI - RIP RBP 05LGT
  • Occupation
    Budget Nazi

rkl303's Achievements

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  1. Another recommendation for terry tanner and his pdr services. I got a quote from some other pdr shop that wanted $400 for what only took him 1 hour and costed me a $100. His number is 303 378 4944. I will say he is not the friendliest guy on the phone but he's way better in person.
  2. Just make sure you put on the brake dust shield back on correctly...ask me how I know.
  3. Epic springs here. I thought the rears were a PITA to get to compress because I chose the wrong number of coils to compress but feel is completely different from the slopyness of the stock setup. I can't say if its more the springs making the difference or the struts but definately way more comfortable than my friends bug eyes on stock struts w/ I think pinks for long trips.
  4. Just finished the install. Took 1 and a 1/2 days because it was my first time using a springs compressor and the oversized claws on the compressor and with the way the koni rear coils coil very tightly at the top made it a huge PITA to install. Also had to reassemble twice on all 4 struts because I stupidly decided to try and go with the OEM top hat nuts instead of the 19mm Koni nuts and they just kept spinning when I lowered the car. Overall impressions is the car is very forgiving over poor quality highway roads and gave very little body roll while going in a circle for the on ramp. Definately love it and wish I had done springs much sooner when I took that circle. Sort of wish I had switched to my summer tires to try it out.
  5. Just a heads up my buddy (ex mechanic) was watching me and he suggested that you should hammer in a small notch where the axle nut sits in the axle just in case $hit happens and it wants to try and slide out.
  6. Thanks Scrad. I was afraid they stuck it in another hard access/reach location again. Is there no filter directly connected to the turbo (3rd pic) or maybe somewhere else?
  7. Hey I'm about to remove the filter in this thread over the weekend (at 110K miles) but I remember reading that there was another filter or two hiding around and I can't seem to find the thread detailing where they are located. Could you me identify if there's a filter in the pictures of the banjo bolts I've attached or tell me where to look. Also does the oil in the 4th picture look dried up (I figure this is the one rao got rid of). I remember a mechanic mentioning to me a long time ago (i.e at 30K) there was an issue but than after that I took it to a stealership and they said it had dried up and the issue was mute now. I can't figure out where the leak was/is right now but I figure I might be able to see it when I go and remove the filter. Thanks, Richard
  8. I agree with Mini STI Guy. THe part that determined what side was higher is the cut off sheild. The shield also was what held the bowl in place and I'm sure I accidently swapped them numerous times.
  9. So would this work at altitude? I have prosport gauges that don't give me a good reference of what my boost level is.
  10. MiniStiGuy you could probably edit the first post to also mention to the DIYers that hey could try adding/reducing washers prior to putting the headlight back togeather. This would save us from going back and taking the system apart because we put in too many or too few washers. I just hooked up my HID system w/o headlight assembly and just put the bulb in the projectors and ran the system. Found out 2 brass washers was a bit too much and 0 wasn't right prior to putting it altogeather.
  11. for the ones hiding in the wheel well b/n the bumper cover and the fender? Guess I should have also pulled off the wheels but I got lazy.
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