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melayout

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melayout last won the day on May 18 2005

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About melayout

  • Birthday October 25

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    Resident Thread Reaper @ Cary, NC
  • Car
    UnLimited OBP GT 5EAT

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  1. DAMN IT. I printed this whole thread and read your post before starting, but I still missed it. :icon_mad:
  2. A few tips: - When replacing the rear plugs, getting the coils out of the way may seem impossible, unless you unplug it from the wire harness and turn it upside down 180deg then try removing it. - When removing the nut on the passenger-side rear coil, you have to use an offset wrench, low-profile ratchet/socket or 12mm univ-socket. The space is tight back there. - When unscrewing the plugs, some may take much more effort than you think is needed. When I did mine, 3 of them I could finish unscrewing with my hands but 1 was tight until the last thread that I thought it was cross-threaded, but it does not look like it is. I was able to screw it back in with no problem but still took way more effort, more than the 15ftlbs of torque, than I felt comfortable. Since my dealer was the only one that touched the plugs before I started doing my own. I took to them and they stated that sometimes the plug threads may be dirty and therefore screwing them in may take some effort. I tried to again to make sure and it screws in and out but still with a lot of effort. - After screwing in the plugs and when putting the coils back on, make sure that the coils are flush against the head. If there is any in/out play or spring-action from pressing on the coils, then plugs are not all the way in. Again I learned this the hard way, when I stopped screwing in my final plug too early since it was taking a lot of effort. - You do not have to use anti-sieze. The Subaru vacation pix only suggest using motor oil on the threads and in doing so make sure to only apply 1/3 of the specified torque when screwing them in. - When removing the intake, it is gonna make it easier if you remove the flexible intake connector first. For me, the minimum required tools were: - Extendable magnetic wand and tray (Life savers) - 10mm 3/8 drive with at least a 10inch extension for the intake - 10mm wrench for the bolt holding the intake - 12mm 1/4 drive and 12mm offset wrench for the coils - spark plug socket + univ joint + >=4 inch extension 3/8 drive to unscrew plugs - Pliers to pull spark plug socket off plug after screwing back in
  3. I ended up going to my tire shop and they loosened them up with their air tools for free. I started with stage 2, then hopped to stage 4 and now I want a QTP bypass valve. Hogmeat, thanks again.
  4. I've always wanted a louder exhaust note for under $200. Excellent idea, I'm trying it asap. Thanks hoggie.
  5. After Jazzy's tip, I went Chuck Norris on the center console and was able to pull the right white clip up. That's after pushing against the black surround with a flat screwdriver. Nasty sh!t. The left clip is mangled from my last attempt, so I tried to pry it out and that didn't go as expected. Like you said, if you're just messing with the headunit, you don't need to unplug the clips for the center console, since you can just pry out the shifter gate surround after sliding the console a tad to the back. If you're installing the subwoofer's wire and running it down the center console, you have to. Grrrrr.
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